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Need Help!!! Wiring amp, sub, to headunit - custom setup - Page 2

post #31 of 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by tundrSQ View Post

i picked the sub based on using your existing amp...you can see on the website that there is another one just like it only with 2 10's....its $150..but that one would not work i don't think. You can bridge 2 channels of that amp...but only 2 a 4ohm load i believe....not a 2 ohm load. Yes i know thats confusing...you can do a 2 ohm stereo load...but not mono.
If you decided to go for the 2 10's....you would need to budget at least another $100 for a dedicated mono amp...but you would likely be happier for longer...no free lunch .cool.gif

Best comment ever!
post #32 of 92
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tundrSQ View Post

i picked the sub based on using your existing amp...you can see on the website that there is another one just like it only with 2 10's....its $150..but that one would not work i don't think. You can bridge 2 channels of that amp...but only 2 a 4ohm load i believe....not a 2 ohm load. Yes i know thats confusing...you can do a 2 ohm stereo load...but not mono.
If you decided to go for the 2 10's....you would need to budget at least another $100 for a dedicated mono amp...but you would likely be happier for longer....no free lunch.cool.gif

Okay so would for decent bass that I can feel, am I better off just going with what I have and changing my sub to the boston acoustic or should I budget another $100...that would just take longer to do
post #33 of 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by nole13 View Post

Okay so would for decent bass that I can feel, am I better off just going with what I have and changing my sub to the boston acoustic or should I budget another $100...that would just take longer to do

thats up to you...a single 10...in the trunk powered by 120 watts is going to be audible...and it will sound decent....but it will nto hit you in the chest. It make shake your rear view mirror....but it will make you want more if you "like your bass".

I used to have a ford contour...with a single 10 and 300 watts that rally pounded....but it was an eclipse 10 that cost over $400 and an xtant amp that cost almost a grand. It was enough bass for me.

But you can't expect that out of a $100 rockford amp...it should get loud....but i think it will leave you wanting 2 10's...or a single 12.


just my opinion...and if t were me i would try and find another $100.,,it will cost you a little more upfront but you will be happy....and you should be set for a couple years unitl you get a taste....and then you will want 2 12's...and then 2 15's....and then maybe 4 10's...

This is the beginning of a long and hopefully enjoyable road...i have been enjoying it for over 25 years. ( i have 4 vifa 8's and some Hybrid Audio comps up front...but using factory HU and amp...plus a RF amp for my subs)
post #34 of 92
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tundrSQ View Post

thats up to you...a single 10...in the trunk powered by 120 watts is going to be audible...and it will sound decent....but it will nto hit you in the chest. It make shake your rear view mirror....but it will make you want more if you "like your bass".
I used to have a ford contour...with a single 10 and 300 watts that rally pounded....but it was an eclipse 10 that cost over $400 and an xtant amp that cost almost a grand. It was enough bass for me.
But you can't expect that out of a $100 rockford amp...it should get loud....but i think it will leave you wanting 2 10's...or a single 12.
just my opinion...and if t were me i would try and find another $100.,,it will cost you a little more upfront but you will be happy....and you should be set for a couple years unitl you get a taste....and then you will want 2 12's...and then 2 15's....and then maybe 4 10's...
This is the beginning of a long and hopefully enjoyable road...i have been enjoying it for over 25 years. ( i have 4 vifa 8's and some Hybrid Audio comps up front...but using factory HU and amp...plus a RF amp for my subs)

Okay thanks. I think for now I will stick with the setup that I originally planned on. Is there a better 10 inch sub that with the amp I have is going to be better around the same price or should I stick with what I have?

Also as far as the ohm loads can someone clarify that please?!
post #35 of 92
Thread Starter 
Just a follow up question. So I no longer need the pin harness do i?
post #36 of 92
Pin harness?

Using what you originally planned will work fine.

Definitely try to power the door and 6x9's with the front channels of the amp. That should power your speakers with a solid ~30 watts each. Better than head unit power.

Powering the sub with 120 watts will leave you wanting more but it is a good place to start. The Boston sub is a good bargain especially if you don't want to build your own enclosure.

Just pick up those y connectors and you will be good to go.

It's a shame you already have the amp.

http://www.parts-express.com/brand/factory-buyouts/car-amplifiers/356_378

These are amazing amplifiers by themselves let alone for the money. Aura , like Boston acoustics is out of the car audio business. They had a 5 channel that would have powered your whole system. But they are sold out.

Here is a sub that should work as well

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=269-086
post #37 of 92
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cubdenno View Post

Pin harness?
Using what you originally planned will work fine.
Definitely try to power the door and 6x9's with the front channels of the amp. That should power your speakers with a solid ~30 watts each. Better than head unit power.
Powering the sub with 120 watts will leave you wanting more but it is a good place to start. The Boston sub is a good bargain especially if you don't want to build your own enclosure.
Just pick up those y connectors and you will be good to go.
It's a shame you already have the amp.
http://www.parts-express.com/brand/factory-buyouts/car-amplifiers/356_378
These are amazing amplifiers by themselves let alone for the money. Aura , like Boston acoustics is out of the car audio business. They had a 5 channel that would have powered your whole system. But they are sold out.
Here is a sub that should work as well
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=269-086

The amp hasn't shipped out yet, but I would really like some clarification on the ohms. If someone can tell me whether its okay to run different ohms or how that works I would appreciate it and would value your opinion more. Right now I think I would like to keep everything on the same level. The Pin Harness I was talking about goes in the back of the radio. I am just trying to figure out if I leave that in or not. Also just spoke to someone who offered to build a "T-line" box. Would that make a difference in sound for the 10 inch and the rockford fosgate subwoofer?
post #38 of 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by nole13 View Post

The amp hasn't shipped out yet, but I would really like some clarification on the ohms. If someone can tell me whether its okay to run different ohms or how that works I would appreciate it and would value your opinion more. Right now I think I would like to keep everything on the same level. The Pin Harness I was talking about goes in the back of the radio. I am just trying to figure out if I leave that in or not. Also just spoke to someone who offered to build a "T-line" box. Would that make a difference in sound for the 10 inch and the rockford fosgate subwoofer?

a properly built t-line box would make you very happy....and a single 10, or even a single 8 in a transmission line box would sound great. An improperly built t-line box could sound like crap. If you want to go that route, then listen to one that he has built first and make a decision.

here is a little tease...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8yArcObFZI&feature=related

As for ohms...it is OK to run different ohms in a system...i in fact run diferent ohms in my front stage...i have 4ohm woofers and tweeters being powered by my factory amp...and i also have an 8 ohm tweeter being powered by the factory amp.

i have 4 4 ohm subwoofers, but they are wired in series and then parallel to preset n a 4 ohm load to my amp.

Lots of people use ohms to maximize the power from there amp...running the lowest possible ohms to get the most power.

i personally use ohms to balance the sound levels.

what you need to pay attention is not running too low an impedance (ohms) to your amplifier. Earlier i warned you not to run a pair pf boston acoustic subs because it would present your amp too low an impedance.

One thing you will learn is lots of pople have lots of ideas...and sometimes you will get advice from people have "just enough knowledge" to be dangerous.smile.gif

Here you have two guys who know they are talking about....

what don't you explain to me what you mean by "keeping it all on the same level"? Are you saying you don't want to run your fronts and rears in parallel off the first two channels of the amp because you think that will be the wrong impedance?
post #39 of 92
http://bcae1.com/

Give this site look.

I typed up a whole damn page of info on ohms using an amp as an example but it looked like one of my long winded responses.

Look at section 8

Very informative. The guy really made a great reference.
post #40 of 92
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tundrSQ View Post

a properly built t-line box would make you very happy....and a single 10, or even a single 8 in a transmission line box would sound great. An improperly built t-line box could sound like crap. If you want to go that route, then listen to one that he has built first and make a decision.
here is a little tease...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8yArcObFZI&feature=related
As for ohms...it is OK to run different ohms in a system...i in fact run diferent ohms in my front stage...i have 4ohm woofers and tweeters being powered by my factory amp...and i also have an 8 ohm tweeter being powered by the factory amp.
i have 4 4 ohm subwoofers, but they are wired in series and then parallel to preset n a 4 ohm load to my amp.
Lots of people use ohms to maximize the power from there amp...running the lowest possible ohms to get the most power.
i personally use ohms to balance the sound levels.
what you need to pay attention is not running too low an impedance (ohms) to your amplifier. Earlier i warned you not to run a pair pf boston acoustic subs because it would present your amp too low an impedance.
One thing you will learn is lots of pople have lots of ideas...and sometimes you will get advice from people have "just enough knowledge" to be dangerous.smile.gif
Here you have two guys who know they are talking about....
what don't you explain to me what you mean by "keeping it all on the same level"? Are you saying you don't want to run your fronts and rears in parallel off the first two channels of the amp because you think that will be the wrong impedance?

Yeah I'm just worried about running the amp at 2 ohms into a 4 ohm speaker.
post #41 of 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by nole13 View Post

Yeah I'm just worried about running the amp at 2 ohms into a 4 ohm speaker.

yeah but you are not...you are taking two 4 ohm speakers and strapping them together and "creating" a 2 ohm load....the amp has nothing to do with the equation. ( other than it needs to be stable at at the impedance it receives.)

IOW...the amp runs at whatever speaker load you send it.
post #42 of 92
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tundrSQ View Post

yeah but you are not...you are taking two 4 ohm speakers and strapping them together and "creating" a 2 ohm load....the amp has nothing to do with the equation. ( other than it needs to be stable at at the impedance it receives.)
IOW...the amp runs at whatever speaker load you send it.

Okay so can that ruin the amp? Or anything? I've heard from others that you want to keep it matched up for life of the amp/sub. Also would anyone be able to tell me how I can calculate the dimensions of a t-line box for a specific sub? I would be most greatful! The guy that offered is asking $400 above the cost of the box.
post #43 of 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by nole13 View Post

Okay so can that ruin the amp? Or anything? I've heard from others that you want to keep it matched up for life of the amp/sub. Also would anyone be able to tell me how I can calculate the dimensions of a t-line box for a specific sub? I would be most greatful! The guy that offered is asking $400 above the cost of the box.

time for some reality....ad i apologize if it comes out wrong.

i have told you 3 times now that you can run 2 pair of 4 ohm speakers off that amp....and i also told you 2 or 3 times that if you were not comfortable doing that you could run the fronts off the amp and the rears off the head unit....this is not a complicated project here.....its 2 sets of $50 dollar speakers , a $50 head unit, and a $100 amp....plus maybe a $75 dollar sub.

You can spend another 6 months listening to a dozen people....or you cold run some wire and listen to some music...your choice...but i really have nothing else to offer here.
post #44 of 92
Everything mr. Sq has advised about has been spot on.

To answer your question on the ohms and the amp, you will be fine. Like sq said, if you are worried, wire it up the way he advised or the way you originally planned to be safest.

Yes if you run an amplifier at to low of an impedance you will let the magic smoke out ( that mean sits toast)

If you are going to waste your money on a t-line enclosure then seriously you need smacked. There is no magic design that will do it all. Like in life there are compromises. If you have 400 bucks lying around for a design you would be better off buying a better head unit AND a mono sub amp. And have cash left over

Ask the guy who will design and build the t-line for a guarantee. Put it on paper what you are expecting. That way when it fails, you have some sort of recourse.
post #45 of 92
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cubdenno View Post

Everything mr. Sq has advised about has been spot on.
To answer your question on the ohms and the amp, you will be fine. Like sq said, if you are worried, wire it up the way he advised or the way you originally planned to be safest.
Yes if you run an amplifier at to low of an impedance you will let the magic smoke out ( that mean sits toast)
If you are going to waste your money on a t-line enclosure then seriously you need smacked. There is no magic design that will do it all. Like in life there are compromises. If you have 400 bucks lying around for a design you would be better off buying a better head unit AND a mono sub amp. And have cash left over
Ask the guy who will design and build the t-line for a guarantee. Put it on paper what you are expecting. That way when it fails, you have some sort of recourse.

Well he said he would make designs for $20-$40 depending on complexity and I would then build it. The other two options I have is to do a fiber glass enclosure, built by me again, http://www.instructables.com/id/Custom-Fiberglass-Subwoofer/?ALLSTEPS
or just buy the speaker with the enclosure here:

http://rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.aspx?itemid=120441
post #46 of 92
When it comes to an audio system or really anything in life you need a plan. You need to also determine what the goals are.

That plan has to incorporate:

Budget: If you don't have the money, it's not going to happen
Ability: Can you do all the work so that it is done correctly and safely. If not more money has to be in the budget to pay someone to do it.
And you have to encompass the next portion into the plan as well:

Goals are a different story all together. They are limited by the budget (hard to win the world SPL championship on a 200 dollar budget.
One also has to be realistic about their goals.Yoiu can try to achieve anything but you have to be happy with what you have which was inherently limited by your budget and abilities.
You can do anything if you have the time and money to put into it.

Between TundrSQ and myself, we have outlined a reasonable cost effective plan using what you already have with upgrade potential.

Use current headunit's single set of RCA outputs with Y adapters to get the signal to the amp

Use current Rockford 4 channel amp to either power one or both sets of door and 6X9 speakers off the front channels. If you only power one set, then the second set is powered by the head unit

Use current Rockford 4 channel amp to power a subwoofer of bridged rear channels

Purchase sub and enclosure


Upgrade path:
Mono sub amp to free up rear channels of rockford amp to drive interior speakers
Second sub
custom enclosure

And last
A better head unit


I think with your budget, you buy a decent subwoofer and stick it in the cheapest sealed box you can. Make sure the sub is either a single voice coil 4 ohm sub or a dual voice coil 2 ohm per coil sub.

This will let you get a second sub and more easily let you add in a mono sub amp that only has to drive a 2 ohm load. THEN you get a custom enclosure design.

Dealing with the 20-30 young guys that have all come through my garage (friends of my son and nephew), some have been wanting nothing but Bass, others were claiming to want sq with a little bass. All were wanting to do it on a highschoolers budget and were willing to skimp on the really important things. Like adequate wire, a plan, safety, subwoofers etc..

Thankfully you have a pretty good start.
post #47 of 92
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cubdenno View Post

When it comes to an audio system or really anything in life you need a plan. You need to also determine what the goals are.
That plan has to incorporate:
Budget: If you don't have the money, it's not going to happen
Ability: Can you do all the work so that it is done correctly and safely. If not more money has to be in the budget to pay someone to do it.
And you have to encompass the next portion into the plan as well:
Goals are a different story all together. They are limited by the budget (hard to win the world SPL championship on a 200 dollar budget.
One also has to be realistic about their goals.Yoiu can try to achieve anything but you have to be happy with what you have which was inherently limited by your budget and abilities.
You can do anything if you have the time and money to put into it.
Between TundrSQ and myself, we have outlined a reasonable cost effective plan using what you already have with upgrade potential.
Use current headunit's single set of RCA outputs with Y adapters to get the signal to the amp
Use current Rockford 4 channel amp to either power one or both sets of door and 6X9 speakers off the front channels. If you only power one set, then the second set is powered by the head unit
Use current Rockford 4 channel amp to power a subwoofer of bridged rear channels
Purchase sub and enclosure
Upgrade path:
Mono sub amp to free up rear channels of rockford amp to drive interior speakers
Second sub
custom enclosure

And last
A better head unit
I think with your budget, you buy a decent subwoofer and stick it in the cheapest sealed box you can. Make sure the sub is either a single voice coil 4 ohm sub or a dual voice coil 2 ohm per coil sub.
This will let you get a second sub and more easily let you add in a mono sub amp that only has to drive a 2 ohm load. THEN you get a custom enclosure design.
Dealing with the 20-30 young guys that have all come through my garage (friends of my son and nephew), some have been wanting nothing but Bass, others were claiming to want sq with a little bass. All were wanting to do it on a highschoolers budget and were willing to skimp on the really important things. Like adequate wire, a plan, safety, subwoofers etc..
Thankfully you have a pretty good start.


Thanks!
post #48 of 92
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cubdenno View Post

When it comes to an audio system or really anything in life you need a plan. You need to also determine what the goals are.
That plan has to incorporate:
Budget: If you don't have the money, it's not going to happen
Ability: Can you do all the work so that it is done correctly and safely. If not more money has to be in the budget to pay someone to do it.
And you have to encompass the next portion into the plan as well:
Goals are a different story all together. They are limited by the budget (hard to win the world SPL championship on a 200 dollar budget.
One also has to be realistic about their goals.Yoiu can try to achieve anything but you have to be happy with what you have which was inherently limited by your budget and abilities.
You can do anything if you have the time and money to put into it.
Between TundrSQ and myself, we have outlined a reasonable cost effective plan using what you already have with upgrade potential.
Use current headunit's single set of RCA outputs with Y adapters to get the signal to the amp
Use current Rockford 4 channel amp to either power one or both sets of door and 6X9 speakers off the front channels. If you only power one set, then the second set is powered by the head unit
Use current Rockford 4 channel amp to power a subwoofer of bridged rear channels
Purchase sub and enclosure
Upgrade path:
Mono sub amp to free up rear channels of rockford amp to drive interior speakers
Second sub
custom enclosure

And last
A better head unit
I think with your budget, you buy a decent subwoofer and stick it in the cheapest sealed box you can. Make sure the sub is either a single voice coil 4 ohm sub or a dual voice coil 2 ohm per coil sub.
This will let you get a second sub and more easily let you add in a mono sub amp that only has to drive a 2 ohm load. THEN you get a custom enclosure design.
Dealing with the 20-30 young guys that have all come through my garage (friends of my son and nephew), some have been wanting nothing but Bass, others were claiming to want sq with a little bass. All were wanting to do it on a highschoolers budget and were willing to skimp on the really important things. Like adequate wire, a plan, safety, subwoofers etc..
Thankfully you have a pretty good start.


Thanks!
post #49 of 92
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cubdenno View Post

When it comes to an audio system or really anything in life you need a plan. You need to also determine what the goals are.
That plan has to incorporate:
Budget: If you don't have the money, it's not going to happen
Ability: Can you do all the work so that it is done correctly and safely. If not more money has to be in the budget to pay someone to do it.
And you have to encompass the next portion into the plan as well:
Goals are a different story all together. They are limited by the budget (hard to win the world SPL championship on a 200 dollar budget.
One also has to be realistic about their goals.Yoiu can try to achieve anything but you have to be happy with what you have which was inherently limited by your budget and abilities.
You can do anything if you have the time and money to put into it.
Between TundrSQ and myself, we have outlined a reasonable cost effective plan using what you already have with upgrade potential.
Use current headunit's single set of RCA outputs with Y adapters to get the signal to the amp
Use current Rockford 4 channel amp to either power one or both sets of door and 6X9 speakers off the front channels. If you only power one set, then the second set is powered by the head unit
Use current Rockford 4 channel amp to power a subwoofer of bridged rear channels
Purchase sub and enclosure
Upgrade path:
Mono sub amp to free up rear channels of rockford amp to drive interior speakers
Second sub
custom enclosure

And last
A better head unit
I think with your budget, you buy a decent subwoofer and stick it in the cheapest sealed box you can. Make sure the sub is either a single voice coil 4 ohm sub or a dual voice coil 2 ohm per coil sub.
This will let you get a second sub and more easily let you add in a mono sub amp that only has to drive a 2 ohm load. THEN you get a custom enclosure design.
Dealing with the 20-30 young guys that have all come through my garage (friends of my son and nephew), some have been wanting nothing but Bass, others were claiming to want sq with a little bass. All were wanting to do it on a highschoolers budget and were willing to skimp on the really important things. Like adequate wire, a plan, safety, subwoofers etc..
Thankfully you have a pretty good start.


Thanks!
post #50 of 92
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cubdenno View Post

When it comes to an audio system or really anything in life you need a plan. You need to also determine what the goals are.
That plan has to incorporate:
Budget: If you don't have the money, it's not going to happen
Ability: Can you do all the work so that it is done correctly and safely. If not more money has to be in the budget to pay someone to do it.
And you have to encompass the next portion into the plan as well:
Goals are a different story all together. They are limited by the budget (hard to win the world SPL championship on a 200 dollar budget.
One also has to be realistic about their goals.Yoiu can try to achieve anything but you have to be happy with what you have which was inherently limited by your budget and abilities.
You can do anything if you have the time and money to put into it.
Between TundrSQ and myself, we have outlined a reasonable cost effective plan using what you already have with upgrade potential.
Use current headunit's single set of RCA outputs with Y adapters to get the signal to the amp
Use current Rockford 4 channel amp to either power one or both sets of door and 6X9 speakers off the front channels. If you only power one set, then the second set is powered by the head unit
Use current Rockford 4 channel amp to power a subwoofer of bridged rear channels
Purchase sub and enclosure
Upgrade path:
Mono sub amp to free up rear channels of rockford amp to drive interior speakers
Second sub
custom enclosure

And last
A better head unit
I think with your budget, you buy a decent subwoofer and stick it in the cheapest sealed box you can. Make sure the sub is either a single voice coil 4 ohm sub or a dual voice coil 2 ohm per coil sub.
This will let you get a second sub and more easily let you add in a mono sub amp that only has to drive a 2 ohm load. THEN you get a custom enclosure design.
Dealing with the 20-30 young guys that have all come through my garage (friends of my son and nephew), some have been wanting nothing but Bass, others were claiming to want sq with a little bass. All were wanting to do it on a highschoolers budget and were willing to skimp on the really important things. Like adequate wire, a plan, safety, subwoofers etc..
Thankfully you have a pretty good start.


Thanks!
post #51 of 92
Your welcome times 4

biggrin.gif
post #52 of 92
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cubdenno View Post

Your welcome times 4
biggrin.gif

Sorry about the multiple posts, but I am that thankful! smile.gif
post #53 of 92
Thread Starter 
HI There back again......So can someone break down how the wires run into the back of the radio? I decided that for now I will just run the speakers off the amp and save up and expand the system later on. Tried looking online for videos or detailed instructions, but dont want to mess anything up. Confused on whether I still need to use the wiring harness, how the remote wire from the amp connects to the back of the radio and what to do with the speaker wires that are connected to the harness.....Thanks for the help so far and looking forward to getting this done properly!
post #54 of 92
As for the harness make sure no wires are bare so that they won't short out. The remote wire connects to the harness.usually blue or blue with white stripe. This is what turns on the amplifier as well as turns off..

Just run the remote and RCA cable out of the back of the head unit. You should be fine. Connect at the amp.

I would run the 6X9's full range. Use the high pass on the front speakers.
post #55 of 92
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cubdenno View Post

As for the harness make sure no wires are bare so that they won't short out. The remote wire connects to the harness.usually blue or blue with white stripe. This is what turns on the amplifier as well as turns off..
Just run the remote and RCA cable out of the back of the head unit. You should be fine. Connect at the amp.
I would run the 6X9's full range. Use the high pass on the front speakers.

Does anyone know how to use the high pass filter on only the front speakers? Usually when I do it it affects all speakers....


EDIT: Never mind. I was clearly over due on sleep.
Edited by nole13 - 10/25/12 at 2:57am
post #56 of 92
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cubdenno View Post

As for the harness make sure no wires are bare so that they won't short out. The remote wire connects to the harness.usually blue or blue with white stripe. This is what turns on the amplifier as well as turns off..
Just run the remote and RCA cable out of the back of the head unit. You should be fine. Connect at the amp.
I would run the 6X9's full range. Use the high pass on the front speakers.

So to clarify, I keep the wiring harness in and the only wires that are changed with the harness is the amp remote wire needs to be connected and i disconnected the speaker wires? Is it a bad idea to use the existing speaker that has already been run through the doors and connect new speaker wire to that?
post #57 of 92
I have tied into factory wiring a bunch of times. I have even used the rear speaker's wire and jumper to the front wires at the harness. Saved the kid money and it works perfectly

Example: rear speakers were disconnected from factory rear speaker wire.
Connected amp front speaker outs to the wires in the trunk.
at the factory wiring harnes in the dash, I jumpered the rears to the corresponding fronts.
Now the front speakers are run through the factory wiring.
The rear speakers had new wiring run to them as they were very close to the amplifier.

Make sense?
post #58 of 92
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cubdenno View Post

I have tied into factory wiring a bunch of times. I have even used the rear speaker's wire and jumper to the front wires at the harness. Saved the kid money and it works perfectly
Example: rear speakers were disconnected from factory rear speaker wire.
Connected amp front speaker outs to the wires in the trunk.
at the factory wiring harnes in the dash, I jumpered the rears to the corresponding fronts.
Now the front speakers are run through the factory wiring.
The rear speakers had new wiring run to them as they were very close to the amplifier.
Make sense?

Yeah....what im planning to do. Tell me if this makes sense. Im going to access the speaker wires at the back somewhere between the harness and the receiver and tie in the wires from the amp. And also tie in the amp remote turn on wire into the wiring harness...Sound good?
post #59 of 92
Thread Starter 
[SIZE]UPDATE ON FRONT SPEAKERS[/SIZE]

http://www.polkaudio.com/products/db461


So since these can only handle 40 rms, how do I wire up my sub now?
post #60 of 92
Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by nole13 View Post

[SIZE]UPDATE ON FRONT SPEAKERS[/SIZE]
http://www.polkaudio.com/products/db461
So since these can only handle 40 rms, how do I wire up my sub now?

Not sure I understand the problem. What does sub and the front speakers have to do with the front speakers?

You wire the sub the same way we told you initially.

Just use the built in crossovers to keep each speaker type with the correct bandwidth.
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AVS › AVS Forum › Other Areas of Interest › Car Audio, Video, and Nav › Need Help!!! Wiring amp, sub, to headunit - custom setup