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Sony HW50 / BenQ W7000 / Epson 5020 / JVC RS55 / JVC RS 46 / JVC RS4810 / JVC RS56 Mini-shootout... - Page 84

post #2491 of 4167
12/27/12 at 4:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

I'm a little confused.. which part is moving from the bass? The entire assembly? (lens shift?)
w7000-1.jpg

Yeah, the entire assembly. So I assume I can either try and figure out some way to stabilize at the joystick, the actual lens or both. With my other manual lens projectors, I just stuck some foam between the lens and housing which was enough to keep it stable, but the way the 7000 lens is situated, you cant do that. Need something thin to wedge between the zoom ring and housing or in the joystick area.
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post #2492 of 4167
12/27/12 at 4:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by RonF View Post

Toe
This is my first 1 chip DLP projector with a color wheel and I guess I'm one of those that sees them quite well. Not a problem for me fortunately with regular material or sports on the W7000 but that pattern....YOWZA eek.gifbiggrin.gif I sure do likes them magic mirrors though. Love my 61" LED Sammy RPTV with the mirrors too.

I hear ya. Last DLP I owned before this 7000 was a Toshiba RPTV DLP about 9 years ago. I had never even heard of RBE at that point and thought for the first few weeks I owned the set that I was just having flashbacks or something. biggrin.gif I then researched it and discovered what I was seeing was RBE. I had to return the set as the RBE was way too much for me to handle. My GF could not see it at all, and she thought I was insane.

With the 7000 and that thick crosshatch, how are you seeing RBE exactly? Are you turning your head real quick back and forth? And the most important question, why am I even asking because I know damn well I am going to try this out next time I fire up the machine! tongue.gif
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post #2493 of 4167
12/27/12 at 4:54pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

I read all about the Sharp xv-z30,000, and the below article has most everything we need to know.
From the article below the guy took VERY detailed on/off readings with the Minolta-10
http://www.hometheater.com/content/sharp-xv-z30000-3d-dlp-video-projector-ht-labs-measures
Before jumping for joy, read my CON's...
Pro's
1) 1,700:1 Native on/off, 8,000:1 with not noticeable IRIS --- This is very unlikely to beat the Mits, I am betting the Mits is at least equivalent but maybe higher.
2) It does have FULLY Motorized controls with lens memory (2.35!), and center-based lens shift I believe (or close to)...
3) Comes with 2 pairs of 3d Glasses (any good, no idea, anyone else know?)
4) Sharp lens with minimal CA
Cons:
1) It doesn't appear to be very bright for 3D if extrapolating the fL data he gave, but I didn't caress all his numbers to figure out a 3D torch mode possible, as I think he was missing that data
2) The reviewer claims it converts ALL 24p to 60hz even for 2D (huh?) with 3:2 pulldown, maybe resolved from firmware, maybe not...
---I am wondering if the reviewer was mistaken, it could really be doing 5:5 pulldown, how does he know it was doing 3:2 if final output was 120hz (5:5 = 5x24 = 120), etc...
3) Native on/off so-so for a machine this expensive
4) NO FI, reviewer says no FI in 2D or 3D
5) Expensive lamps, maybe cheaper knock-offs available
6) NO FULLY working CMS in service menu or user menu (but with newest firmware can connect to a PC to access Gamut),
but if you have a lumagen it does appear there is an Over-Saturated Gamut Mode to maybe make it fixable

That's the best/most-detailed review I've found as well... a few notes on the review's conclusions and your pros/cons:

re native CR: 1700:1 measured native CR was at 1.7 throw ratio... the lens is > 2x zoom from 1.4-2.8 throw, so you can probably get well over 1700:1 by moving the preojector closer to the 2.8 throw ratio limit if your space allows, but only for 2D as you'd need all the lumens you can get for 3D.

re 3D lumens: have not seen a good measure of 3D lumens in any of the reviews, but it is clear that good colors take a toll on lumens... maybe if one is willing to go with brilliant color and sacrifice color accuracy a bit you could get >1100 lumens, but nothing to indicate how far off accurate colors that is at this point, nor how many additional lumens you can squeeze out of it.

re FI: would have been nice to include, although not as big of a deal-breaker for DLP... poor FI implementations just to check that box are plenty, and are inevitably turned off by many.

re price: seems to be selling for well below MSRP (~2.6K on ebay)

additional pro: 3 yr warranty
additional con negating additional pro: company may not be around in 3 months, let alone 3 yrs!
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post #2494 of 4167
12/27/12 at 4:58pm
One other thing I noticed watching 2d on the 7000 today, or maybe I should say did not notice, is the native motion. I dont find the native DLP motion to be noticeably better vs my RS40/45 (with blu ray at least). What am I missing here since everyone seems to talk about how great the native DLP motion is............ confused.gif When I enable the FI, the motion is much better vs the JVCs, but I assumed that was due to a better FI implementation and did not have anything to do with the native motion abilities (?).

Also, for anyone sensitive to a DI, the DI on the 7000 is very noticeable. I can easily see this thing pumping away from one scene to the next if there is a major change in brightness from one scene to the next. Makes me appreciate my 45 even more as far as that awesome native contrast! cool.gif
Edited by Toe - 12/27/12 at 5:05pm
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post #2495 of 4167
12/27/12 at 5:08pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toe View Post

I hear ya. Last DLP I owned before this 7000 was a Toshiba RPTV DLP about 9 years ago. I had never even heard of RBE at that point and thought for the first few weeks I owned the set that I was just having flashbacks or something. biggrin.gif I then researched it and discovered what I was seeing was RBE. I had to return the set as the RBE was way too much for me to handle. My GF could not see it at all, and she thought I was insane.
With the 7000 and that thick crosshatch, how are you seeing RBE exactly? Are you turning your head real quick back and forth? And the most important question, why am I even asking because I know damn well I am going to try this out next time I fire up the machine! tongue.gif

Don't then.....seriously....leave it alone and be happy. It's a useless pattern anyway what's the purpose with the thick grid?? No I was hardly doing anything. Slightest eye shifts and they were all over the place.
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post #2496 of 4167
12/27/12 at 5:12pm
Thread Starter 
some people who don't like FI in general seem to like in in 3D.

Even with a DLP, I found this lacking on the Mits 8000 and was preferring the W7000's 3D with the FI which is quite subtle, yet effective.

so who is buying the Sharp 30K and giving their full report on the thread? cool.gif
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post #2497 of 4167
12/27/12 at 5:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by dougri View Post

That's the best/most-detailed review I've found as well... a few notes on the review's conclusions and your pros/cons:
re native CR: 1700:1 measured native CR was at 1.7 throw ratio... the lens is > 2x zoom from 1.4-2.8 throw, so you can probably get well over 1700:1 by moving the preojector closer to the 2.8 throw ratio limit if your space allows, but only for 2D as you'd need all the lumens you can get for 3D.
re 3D lumens: have not seen a good measure of 3D lumens in any of the reviews, but it is clear that good colors take a toll on lumens... maybe if one is willing to go with brilliant color and sacrifice color accuracy a bit you could get >1100 lumens, but nothing to indicate how far off accurate colors that is at this point, nor how many additional lumens you can squeeze out of it.
re FI: would have been nice to include, although not as big of a deal-breaker for DLP... poor FI implementations just to check that box are plenty, and are inevitably turned off by many.
re price: seems to be selling for well below MSRP (~2.6K on ebay)
additional pro: 3 yr warranty
additional con negating additional pro: company may not be around in 3 months, let alone 3 yrs!

Good points.

Some Counter Argument:

I didn't realize he left the zoom there when taking on/off, you sure?
Since he took the reading with a Minolta T-10, I did / would assume he would know that you just adjust the ZOOM then take the reading at the lens (or farther back facing lens from screen), as you don't need to move the projector to take a new reading, you just need to turn off the zoom. **Hmm, why would anyone take their "MAX READING" on/off measurement with Zoom on (stupidity is what that is)**

FI is useful for 3D

3D Lumens = The problem is most projectors have a major drop-off NOT just from the glasses, but the accessible 3D modes in the projectors do not match the 2D mode lumens capabilities. Art @ PJreviews.com said the 3D on this projector is about the same as the JVC RS-45 or Sony hw-30 (subjectively), so I would assume 700-1000 lumens for a 3D mode. These darn reviewers keep leaving us without the MOST important LUMENS measurement (3D max). Hey reviewers, grow a brain, get a clue (sorry I know that was not nice)...

Price = 2.6k is not cheap, the Benq is much cheaper and the Epson 5010 is now on sale (not 5020) is 2x brighter or more for a few hundred less, of course the Sharp will have cleaner 3D than the Epson.
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post #2498 of 4167
12/27/12 at 5:24pm
Seems to me that someone might have a financial interest in seeing Red-ray succeed. Yeah BDs are horrible if you blow them up well past 150 inches and get close enough to see every imperfection in the encode.

If you thought BD was bad, look at it compared to craptastic streaming.

I just don't buy that Odemax is going to deliver. If you thought studios were fearful of a 1080 format wait, do you honestly think they want you to have a 4K master in your possession?

Red has made these boastful promises before only to miss ship dates and not deliver
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post #2499 of 4167
12/27/12 at 5:27pm
I was watching Fringe on Amazon on Demand / Amazon Prime (Fringe is Free). Fringe isn't bad, gets a bit repetitive, but some Episodes are good.

I was pleasantly surprised in the quality with my 18.5Mbps average streaming bandwidth on my Sony bdp-s590 Bluray player. The Sony player (unlike my others) does a connection speed test before it starts streaming and shows the average Mbps directly to the streamer before it starts playing (indispensable feature, none of my other Bluray players did that). At times it got close to VUDU quality, at other times it wasn't quite VUDU but not nearly as bad as I remember Netflix either (haven't watched Netflix much in 6+ months). It was pretty frigging good and I sit 1.0x screen width. Blows away my old players on Netflix.

Anyhow, if you have a fast enough connection, some content on Amazon is looking good (not so though when using my HTPC Amazon on Demand player, the Sony is working better, not sure why). I almost want to say either the AOD service was purposefully streaming slower to my HTPC viewer and Sony gets an auto-enhancement on AOD, or something else was wrong. AOD on my new player was the best "free" streaming I've seen yet. I would say the stream was 90% as good as VUDU (maybe 95%). It was for the most part better than my Cable signal (hence my cable isn't the cleanest, but not too bad). So in that sense, I was pleasantly pleased.
Edited by coderguy - 12/27/12 at 5:34pm
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post #2500 of 4167
12/27/12 at 5:34pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toe View Post

Yeah, the entire assembly. So I assume I can either try and figure out some way to stabilize at the joystick, the actual lens or both. With my other manual lens projectors, I just stuck some foam between the lens and housing which was enough to keep it stable, but the way the 7000 lens is situated, you cant do that. Need something thin to wedge between the zoom ring and housing or in the joystick area.

it might be time to break out the hot glue gun. Or create a 'stockade' to hold the lens in place from your heavy bass. smile.gif
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post #2501 of 4167
12/27/12 at 5:35pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

Even with a DLP, I found this lacking on the Mits 8000 and was preferring the W7000's 3D with the FI which is quite subtle, yet effective.
so who is buying the Sharp 30K and giving their full report on the thread? cool.gif

Not without FI, darn you in your "FI" statement, my decision is done. Benq is OTW.
Dumb question, do MV3D work with Benq (forgot)?
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post #2502 of 4167
12/27/12 at 5:37pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Not without FI, darn you in your "FI" statement, my decision is done. Benq is OTW.
Dumb question, do MV3D work with Benq (forgot)?

negative, just the DLP link glasses. the True Depth 3D's are most economical and work very good overall.

if you end up hating this projector, don't blame me. smile.gif I only use it for 3D and ambient light HDTV viewing.
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post #2503 of 4167
12/27/12 at 5:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Good points.
Some Counter Argument:
I didn't realize he left the zoom there when taking on/off, you sure?
Since he took the reading with a Minolta T-10, I did / would assume he would know that you just adjust the ZOOM then take the reading at the lens (or farther back facing lens from screen), as you don't need to move the projector to take a new reading, you just need to turn off the zoom. **Hmm, why would anyone take their "MAX READING" on/off measurement with Zoom on (stupidity is what that is)**
FI is useful for 3D
3D Lumens = The problem is most projectors have a major drop-off NOT just from the glasses, but the accessible 3D modes in the projectors do not match the 2D mode lumens capabilities. Art @ PJreviews.com said the 3D on this projector is about the same as the JVC RS-45 or Sony hw-30 (subjectively), so I would assume 700-1000 lumens for a 3D mode. These darn reviewers keep leaving us without the MOST important LUMENS measurement (3D max). Hey reviewers, grow a brain, get a clue (sorry I know that was not nice)...
Price = 2.6k is not cheap, the Benq is much cheaper and the Epson 5010 is now on sale (not 5020) is 2x brighter or more for a few hundred less, of course the Sharp will have cleaner 3D than the Epson.

yes, would be nice to have full on/off and native at various zoom & offset, as well as high/low lamp and BC on/off, but as long as they state EXACTLY what they did, they are doing better than most reviewers... and in this regard I must commend hometheater.com, as they almost always state the setup conditions, and state when they make exceptions. In this review, they state clearly what the setup conditions were for all measurements unless otherwise noted... they also state why they chose what they did... because it is a pretty standard setup, that in their view works in most people's setups. I'd love if they ran the full set of numbers, just not the case. Unless they failed to note the exception as they stated they would, this was at 1.7 throw ratio, when 2.8 is max. Even the 8300:1 was at the 1.7 throw, so might get more out of that as well.
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post #2504 of 4167
12/27/12 at 5:42pm
@Dougri
Well it's nice of him to go on and on about semi-technical calibration and what not, but it doesn't change the fact they left out 3d lumens and other stuff. Reviewing a DLP without giving lumens measurements, is like me reviewing a CAR without measuring horsepower and not even telling you if it is a 4 cylinder or more.
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

negative, just the DLP link glasses. the True Depth 3D's are most economical and work very good overall.
if you end up hating this projector, don't blame me. smile.gif I only use it for 3D and ambient light HDTV viewing.

Darn, another $120 (call me cheapo).

That's ok, that;'s what you are here for (to take all the blame). I doubt I'll hate it, haven't really hated any projector except broken ones (and I've had a few of those). If I hate it I'll resell it, if I lose $300 then it was worth it just to play with it. This is my 2nd refurb purchase. I now have 2 refurbs and one new (JVC only is new). I'm not sure it was worth it to go refurb on the Benq, but only time will tell.
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post #2505 of 4167
12/27/12 at 5:51pm
They
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

@Dougri
Well it's nice of him to go on and on about semi-technical calibration and what not, but it doesn't change the fact they left out 3d lumens and other stuff. Reviewing a DLP without giving lumens measurements, is like me reviewing a CAR without measuring horsepower and not even telling you if it is a 4 cylinder or more.
Darn, another $120 (call me cheapo).
That's ok, that;'s what you are here for (to take all the blame). I doubt I'll hate it, haven't really hated any projector except broken ones (and I've had a few of those). If I hate it I'll resell it, if I lose $300 then it was worth it just to play with it. This is my 2nd refurb purchase. I now have 2 refurbs and one new (JVC only is new). I'm not sure it was worth it to go refurb on the Benq, but only time will tell.

They state screen size, gain and ftL... Isn't that all that is needed to back out lumens?
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post #2506 of 4167
12/27/12 at 5:53pm
No, because neither him nor Art stated what mode(s) did or did not work for 3D, and once 3D is enabled if the mode that was working still produced the same lumens as the 2D mode.
You will find a major drop in most cases, that projectors like the Benq w7000 (2000 Lumens in 2D, 1100 in 3D), Optoma hd33 (1300-1500 in 2D, 800? in 3d), and the Acer h9500bd (1500+ in 2D, 700 in 3d), and the JVC RS-45 (1100+ in 2D torch, 800-1000 or so in 3D)... I think the Epson was more like 1400-1600 in 3D depending on your calibration, etc...

See the problem, could be 1200 lumens in 2D, and 500 in 3D, we just don't know. Those are raw 3D lumens before the glasses (the fL our eyes see is much lower after the glasses, 70% to 75% loss generally).
Edited by coderguy - 12/27/12 at 6:03pm
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post #2507 of 4167
12/27/12 at 6:08pm
Go
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

No, because neither him nor Art stated what mode(s) did or did not work for 3D, and once 3D is enabled if the mode that was working still produced the same lumens as the 2D mode.
You will find a major drop in most cases, that projectors like the Benq w7000 (2000 Lumens in 2D, 1100 in 3D), Optoma hd33 (1300-1500 in 2D, 800? in 3d), and the Acer h9500bd (1500+ in 2D, 700 in 3d), and the JVC RS-45 (1100+ in 2D torch, 800-1000 or so in 3D)... I think the Epson was more like 1400-1600 in 3D depending on your calibration, etc...
See the problem, could be 1200 lumens in 2D, and 500 in 3D, we just don't know. Those are raw 3D lumens before the glasses (the fL our eyes see is much lower after the glasses, 70% to 75% loss generally).

Agreed... I thought you were just complaining about the use of ftL rather than lumens. I really wish they'd pick a common pair of glasses and measure behind the glasses.
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post #2508 of 4167
12/27/12 at 6:13pm
I wrote a projector calculator, hopefully I know what fL is by now and have a pretty good feel, if not so sad my bad...
I don't think I'd be complaining about what format they gave it in, more about their shoddy methods.
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post #2509 of 4167
12/27/12 at 6:17pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

I wrote a projector calculator, hopefully I know what fL is by now and have a pretty good feel, if not so sad my bad...
I don't think I'd be complaining about what format they gave it in, more about their shoddy methods.

That made me laugh... Reading/responding faster than advised on a phone I sometimes miss key words (3D) and forget that many here know significantly more about the topic than I!
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post #2510 of 4167
12/27/12 at 6:23pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

Up 3D is good, I'm just not a fan of the story. My issue when they re-render an animation that wasn't designed for 3D in mind, is that it's mainly depth with little to no popouts. The re-rendered Toy Story's and Shrek's are a good example with the last having the 'wow' 3D.
I am looking forward to seeing Monsters Inc get the 3D treatment. Also Despicable Me 2 is coming out next year.. one of my favorite 3D animations.
what projectors are you deciding upon?

Sony HW50 or JVC RS46. I could MAYBE swing the RS4810, but that would really be stretching my budget.
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post #2511 of 4167
12/27/12 at 6:30pm
hw50 if going 3D, simple as that. As a matter of fact,if faced with the same decision (given the extra 3D lumens of the hw50 and cleaner 3D vs. the RS-45 I now own), I would now take the hw50 instead of the RS-45/46. Of course depending on price, if you can get the w7000 + RS-46 for near the same price, then two projectors might be better. I would go view a Sony hw50 first if you can though. Of course I've been too lazy to go out and see the hw50 (only because I am not considering buying it), had 2 chances to see one but got too busy at work. Also, just a reminder, anyone can go see the Sony 4k at the Cinema on the commercial 4K theaters, no idea how this matches up to the vw1000 (I can tell you the commercial version will have much worse blacks, and might not be setup right, might have a fading lamp, etc..).

As much as I appreciate the great blacks of the JVC, it very much sounds like the hw50 is beating the Epson now (both with a more invisible IRIS and getting darker blacks), then I'd take the Sony over the RS-45/46. The Sony hw50 has gotta be getting pretty close to the RS-45/46 in black levels, so I'm sure I'd be able to live with it. However, there is the focus uniformity issue, but it's not so visible in video content (I've owned many projectors with focus uniformity issues, JVC doesn't have the issue). For HTPC, might be slightly annoying, but otherwise I doubt you'd notice much (that's my take).
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post #2512 of 4167
12/27/12 at 6:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

hw50 if going 3D, simple as that. As a matter of fact,if faced with the same decision (given the extra 3D lumens of the hw50 and cleaner 3D vs. the RS-45 I now own), I would now take the hw50 instead of the RS-45/46. Of course depending on price, if you can get the w7000 + RS-46 for near the same price, then two projectors might be better. I would go view a Sony hw50 first if you can though. Of course I've been too lazy to go out and see the hw50 (only because I am not considering buying it), had 2 chances to see one but got too busy at work. Also, just a reminder, anyone can go see the Sony 4k at the Cinema on the commercial 4K theaters, no idea how this matches up to the vw1000 (I can tell you the commercial version will have much worse blacks, and might not be setup right, might have a fading lamp, etc..).
As much as I appreciate the great blacks of the JVC, it very much sounds like the hw50 is beating the Epson now (both with a more invisible IRIS and getting darker blacks), then I'd take the Sony over the RS-45/46. The Sony hw50 has gotta be getting pretty close to the RS-45/46 in black levels, so I'm sure I'd be able to live with it. However, there is the focus uniformity issue, but it's not so visible in video content (I've owned many projectors with focus uniformity issues, JVC doesn't have the issue). For HTPC, might be slightly annoying, but otherwise I doubt you'd notice much (that's my take).

I've been leaning towards Sony for a few reasons. 1. Cheaper overall cost as I want 3D and by the time you add RF emitter and glasses the JVC eclipses the HW50 in price. 2. As mentioned already, I'm interested in 3D. Though it will only be 5-10% of my viewing, I still want to be able to view a pleasing 3D experience. I actually dont have anywhere nearby to see the Sony. The only places I can see something close is Best Buy/Mag, which have the HW30 and a local high end retailer which also only have the HW30 on display and dont plan on displaying the HW50 until after selling out of the 30. My local JVC dealer just informed me they have no plans to display the X-35 and are going right to the X-75. So I have to rely on what I hear/read online. Not something I typically like doing.
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post #2513 of 4167
12/27/12 at 6:39pm
I have the same question... I want to know how the rs46 will perform against the Sony, with the new firmware and with it's own glasses and emitter... I am sure that in 2d will outperform the Sony and if it has an acceptable 3d... Zombie tested 4810 with the Sony but rs46 is brighter! What I want to read before i deside is jvc rs46 (firmware update) with darbee vs sony 50es...
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post #2514 of 4167
12/27/12 at 6:41pm
The hw30 should give you a general idea, though the hw50 is going to be brighter (and with RC enabled, sharper). Keep in mind that you can use different emitters and glasses with the JVC though (and all these projectors), so don't even order the JVC glasses IMO, they aren't as good as others (never tried the new ones, but similar I'm guessing). So don't really count the glasses as part of the cost unless they are not only throwing them in free, but also giving you a good pair of free glasses.
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post #2515 of 4167
12/27/12 at 6:44pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

The hw30 should give you a general idea, though the hw50 is going to be brighter (and with RC enabled, sharper). Keep in mind that you can use different emitters and glasses with the JVC though (and all these projectors), so don't even order the JVC glasses IMO, they aren't as good as others (never tried the new ones, but similar I'm guessing). So don't really count the glasses as part of the cost unless they are not only throwing them in free, but also giving you a good pair of free glasses.

I know I can, but the few reviews I've read re: the new RF glasses is that they are a great improvement over previous generation ones. They also have a much lower tint that isn't as colored. I like the look of the Xpands, but they seem to have a very dark tint compared to others.
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post #2516 of 4167
12/27/12 at 6:51pm
Stephen Withers tested both (new firmware and glasses) and by the score that he gives seems that jvc is better than sony... I am waiting Jason's review to decide... :-)


http://www.avforums.com/reviews/JVC-DLA-X35-X35BE-X35WE-3D-DILA-Projector-Review_452/Review.html
http://www.avforums.com/reviews/Sony-VPL-HW50ES-SXRD-3D-Projector-Review_413/Review.html
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post #2517 of 4167
12/27/12 at 6:54pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by cl7gr View Post

Stephen Withers tested both (new firmware and glasses) and by the score that he gives seems that jvc is better than sony... I am waiting Jason's review to decide... :-)
http://www.avforums.com/reviews/JVC-DLA-X35-X35BE-X35WE-3D-DILA-Projector-Review_452/Review.html
http://www.avforums.com/reviews/Sony-VPL-HW50ES-SXRD-3D-Projector-Review_413/Review.html

Yep, read both those. There's a lot adding to my overall indecisiveness. Though, given I'll be coming from a 7 year old 32" Panasonic LCD, I think either of them are going to be a bit of an upgrade. biggrin.gif
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post #2518 of 4167
12/27/12 at 6:59pm
I am coming from rs45 which I really liked except 3d ghosting. I can get jvc with emitter and glasses at the same price with the Sony, so money is not an object for me...
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post #2519 of 4167
12/27/12 at 7:02pm
As far as comparing lumen output between 3D projectors: It seems to me that the glasses could be measured fairly easily... Set 2D to 3D conversion "On", put up a 100 IRE window, Measure light off the screen both with the glasses and without. Wouldn't that give you an accurate figure to use? So, using hypothetical numbers for ease of understanding, a PJ that had 1000 Lumens in 3D with glasses that passed 50% of the light would be brighter than a 1200 Lumen projector with glasses that only passed 33% of the light. Does that make sense, or am I missing something?
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post #2520 of 4167
12/27/12 at 7:07pm
Maybe Zombie can test the JVC and Sony with sbs 3D material. The Epson is amazing with this type of 3D material. If I were to move to another it has to handle thid type of 3D at least as well as the Epson.
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AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP › Sony HW50 / BenQ W7000 / Epson 5020 / JVC RS55 / JVC RS 46 / JVC RS4810 / JVC RS56 Mini-shootout 2012-2013