Sony HW50 / BenQ W7000 / Epson 5020 / JVC RS55 / JVC RS 46 / JVC RS4810 / JVC RS56 Mini-shootout... - Page 94

We believe in spending however much time is necessary to insure each meter performs equal or better than manufacturer specifications and have invested a lot to do so. All SpectraCal C6 meters are hand verified for proper accuracy and tolerance against reference displays (after the unique spectral response data for over two dozen display profiles are applied) by a SpectraCal lab technician in a controlled environment. Before the instrument leaves the laboratory to go to the customer, it must fall within spec and be signed off on for proper performance on each display type. Once approved, a report is generated and hand-signed by the technician and included with the device before it is shipped. This is completed on each and every C6 on an individual level, and on each individual display technology.

In addition to working with X-Rite on our process for meter calibration, we have consulted with a number of industry professionals and experts (including Edward F. Kelley, Ph.D. Consulting Physicist), who have worked with us to build out our dedicated calibration lab to the required spec. We’ve researched and invested an unquantifiable amount of time and money to ensure that the products we provide our customers are not only under manufacturer spec, but the best that they can be.

We do not profile meters to specific make and model displays. We have found the process we use to be more accurate and consistent. If you want to profile a specific make and model display, CalMAN can do this directly with the built-in meter profile tool in CalMAN 5 Control software license level and above. This allows you to create your own meter profile using the Meter Profiler tool. You can take one meter and reference it against a better more accurate meter on any display you are calibrating and save the profile to CalMAN. Although it is not required, if you have an i1Pro, i1Pro2, Konica Minolta, Photo Research, or JETI spectro, and a colorimeter, we recommend this process as it may squeak out even more accuracy out of the calibration on that specific display (when we say squeak, we’re talking WAY below visible error).

I hope this helps. Please feel free to post additional questions here or send me a PM.

Interesting, Josh. The latter process you describe seems similar to the process I've used to use colorimeters with new wider gamut displays. I use a spectrophotometer (ColorMunki) to build a correction matrix for my i1 Display 2 colorimeter & Dell U2711 (wide-gamut) display pair. Once I do this, the ColorMunki & i1 colorimeter both produce similar profiles (not surprising); without the correction matrix, the i1 produces a bogus profile b/c the primaries of the U2711 are quite different from whatever standard the i1 was initially built/calibrated to (a colorimeter expects certain wavelengths for primaries, whereas the spectrophotometer actually measures intensities at different wavelengths, which the colorimeter can't do, obviously).

My question with this entire process is: can I even trust my ColorMunki? It does some sort of 'self-calibration', but I don't know what it's doing. How do I know that when it thinks it's scanning 500nm, that it's actually 500nm (+/- some reasonable error, or course)? Unfortunately, I don't have any standards at home I can measure.... though I do have a fluorometer in the lab which is probably well calibrated.

For those interested in the LPE filter for the Eposn PJs, there are links to four eBay auctions in the LPE thread. Post #87 (See my sig...) I'm not involved in these auctions in any way, just pointing them out for any interested parties.

Zombie, I PMed you about getting you a loaner filter for your testing. As it turns out, I should get it Monday, not Friday.

The i1Display 2 does not include a table for wide gamut displays out of the box. Wide gamut displays also tend to push the envelope of the filters on the i1Display 2 meters’ sensors, so it's no surprise the ColorMunki is doing a lot of work. If you don’t trust the ColorMunki self-calibration (which is only for sensor dark offsets – only the new i1pro2 has the ability to check sensor alignment), the only way to verify if your ColorMunki is reporting appropriately is to compare to a different meter you trust, or a known source. The ColorMunki is a great instrument and tends to stay within spec for a long time. Since it’s a spectro, it doesn’t have filters to decay. I don’t think we’ve had one unit come through the lab (for verification) that didn’t still fall within X-Rite’s manufacturer spec. So unless you’ve dropped, damaged, or are seeing odd results from it, it’s probably safe to say the ColorMunki is reporting properly. If you still feel uneasy about it you can always send it in to have us compare it against the Konica Minolta CS-2000.

I bought 3 pairs of monstervision 3d glasses to use with my JVC 4810 2 weeks ago.I was not satisfied with the 3d of 4810 on 130" screen.I found it to dim.if anybody is interested in buying the glasses from me,I have them listed at amazon under raulsgoods.Pm me if interested.

Hi, is the JVC RF emitter running on standard 3D Vesa format? I'm thinking to use this with Optoma HD8300 projector as I already had 6 pairs of RF FullHD 3D glasses from Panasonic and Samsung for Panny ST50.

. I kept it for 2 d only.

I haven't seen JVC publish anything regarding the standards that its RF emitter conforms to. Based on my experience, the JVC emitter definitely works with the Panasonic glasses you have and should work with your Samsung glasses, but I have no idea whether it'll work with your Optoma projector. I've read somewhere that the Optoma emitters work with JVC projectors, so if that's the case, I see no reason why the reverse wouldn't be true.

Thanks for the info. If it is a 3pin din, most likely it would work.

Is the Rubbermaid stand a permanent fixture in your theater? I'm looking at shelf-mounting either an HW50 or RS-4810 (leaning toward RS-4810) and not really crazy about ceiling mounting as I've had poor experiences with ceiling mounts in the past (image squareness). I was looking at a black Intermetro wire-shelf as a possible alternative.

Regardless, I intend to use a fixed A-lens in my setup and would like to leave open the possibility of having a 2nd projector dedicated to 3D only. I figure the wire shelving is the best and most sturdy option.

The Rubbermade stand isolates the projector from all the bass he has in his HT and helps dampen the fan noise which is internally generated..

Do E-Shift / E-Shift2, Reality Creation and the Darbee all effect 1:1 pixel mapping? I assume these should all be turned off before reviewing convergence test patterns?

Thanks

Came into this thread leaning very heavily towards getting the HW50ES, and have come away leaning very heavily towards it still. Only thing holding me back is the realization that as soon as I buy it, there will be a newer version that improves upon two of the only things that makes me slightly hesitant. Namely, lumens (will probably be at 2000 minimum, perhaps 2400 or more to match Epson) and switching from IR to RF glasses (can't imagine this won't be the case). Hoping that I might get lucky and that something is teased at CES next week, but highly doubtful.

Having said that, 90% chance I end up with the HW50ES. It would be my first projector, and as such, I had a couple of questions that I hoped my fellow AVS-ers could help me out with.

I have experience calibrating displays (plasma) but not projectors. Previously used the i1 Display LT with Color HCFR software and a BD calibration disc from this forum. The Display LT isn't gonna cut it for a PJ so I'm going to purchase another Colorimeter.

My questions are:

What consumer grade meters are you guys using/ recommending for calibration? I was thinking of the ColorMunki Display (colorimeter not spectrometer) or the i1 Display Pro.

Can you use the ColorMunki Display or i1 Display Pro with the updated Color HCFR software or other software other than the one it comes with? Just that I'm used to Color HCFR and have heard that Xrite's software wasn't all that great which is why I bought the Display LT over the old Display Pro, because the meters were the same save for the fact that the Pro came with software, which was purported to be poor, hence why there was no reason to spend the extra money on the Pro.

I assume the same goes for the ColorMunki Display and the I1 Display Pro, meaning the meters are the same but that the advanced software of the Pro over the basic soft of the ColorMunki equates to the difference in price?

Lastly, any other meters I should consider for calibrating a projector?

I enjoy calibrating displays and found the process of learning about it to be extremely enjoyable, so I'm not considering getting it professionally done. I expect that the experience of calibrating my new PJ to be more of the same.

Thanks in advance for your help, and thanks Zombie for the thread and work.

Can somebody please tell me if i understand correct

Cant i have a 120inch screen for sony hw50es at a throw of 6 meters? ( i mean the distance from proj to screen is 6 meters) I thought that i can have a screen 130inch from 6 meters.

http://www.menards.com/main/storage-organization/garage-outdoor-organization/freestanding-storage/5-shelf-industrial-steel-shelving-with-contemporary-design/p-1798460-c-12652.htm

That is much sturdier than the plastic rubbermaid stuff, is reasonably priced and should be local to you. I currently have 2 projectors and an A-Lens on that model shelving unit. As a bonus its black metal finish blends very well with equipment racks. At least it does with my Omnimont rack.. Menards also has a smaller version of that shelving unit with 18" shelves but 24" depth is better suited for projectors.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=100095394&storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&MERCH=REC%2d%5f%2dSearchPLPHorizontal1%2d1%2d%5f%2dNA%2d%5f%2d100095394%2d%5f%2dN#.UOdN3ay3PFo

Just so anyone who is looking for the perfect adjustable shelf or running a multiply projector set up like I am. Was only $60 last month when I bought it. I have the shelf Zombie has but I needed something to put my jvc and benq in the right position to get 2+ gain on my HP screen

Hello all ,

I'm hoping someone here (anyone) will be able to answer a question that's been nagging me for a while and I can't seem to find the "25 words or less" version .
I've seen numerous Posts where the topic of Min Zoom and Max Zoom versus Contrast have come up but I simply don't have a good grasp of what this does or means .
I'll assume that if you have a short throw from your PJ to your screen then you're not zooming , depending on your screen size , and if you have a long throw to your screen then you're not zooming at all , again depending on your screen size .
I guess what's confused me is the terminology , short throw , max zoom , long throw , min zoom , etc. and how all this affects the ultimate measured Contrast Ratio or is it ANSI Contrast Ratio ?

Why does this question belong in this thread you ask ? Well I guess if the distance and zoom affect the final contrast Ratio measured values then Zombie's values will reflect his personal HT setup and not mine , yes ?
If so , then shouldn't all Reviewers report these criteria when reporting "ultimate" numbers for a given PJ ?

Scott..................

Its simple, max throw distance = max contrast (ANSI, I believe) = min brightness. And vice versa.

The reported maximum throw for the HW50 is 2.13 by most accounts. For a 120" diagonal 16:9 screen from 6 meters (19.685 feet) the HW50 can not make the image small enough so you will have the edges of the image outside the screen. From 6 meters a 130" diagonal screen should work just barely.

Math: 120" = 104.6 wide screen. 104.6 * 2.13 = 222.8 inches is the farthest back you can put the projector = 18.56 feet.

Hope my math is right. Having said all that I measured the maximum throw ratio on my HW50 to be more like 2.16 but that still will not work for a 120" diagonal screen from 6 meters.

Reviews such as Cine4home usually do quote the zoom used, the iris, lamp power and calibration mode used.


Long throw: If the projector is a long way from the screen then you don't need to use the zoom (so the size of the image coming out of the projector is smaller). This mode tends to give more contrast and less brightness. This gives max on/off contrast, not so sure how or if it effects ANSI contrast.

Short throw: If you put your projector close to the screen you have to zoom to make the image fill the screen (so the size of the image coming out of the projector is larger which covers more area of the lens) then this tends to be brighter and have less contrast.

On the Sony this change is less significant (but it has less zoom range than the JVC). On the JVC the difference can be quite significant. Having demo'd an X55 at full zoom I was a little disappointed with the contrast, but took a gamble as my set up is long throw and thankfully the gamble paid off as it has much more contrast in my set up than I saw when it was demo'd.

Wonderful. I'm gonna have to run mine at full zoom lol

Excellent , thank you !
I wonder if anyone has ever tried recording the Contrast values at different zoom levels ? Could be difficult to reproduce as the Zoom isn't a precise action , but a min/max zoom value for a given PJ might indicate some useful data .
This would have to be a "facing the PJ" measurement and not off the Screen I assume ?

Scott..............

Hi, just to let you know, there's a whole forum area specifically for discussing calibration. Just a suggestion, you might get more responses over there....

Cine4home has done that on many occasions already.

@ Zombie. No problem, glad to be of help. You've also reminded me that I need to do something about my ceiling which is matt white and I can't be bothered faffing about with my black cloth 'tent' every time I watch a film, so something a bit slicker is planed. These projectors work best in a black pit, so I need to do what I can to achieve that.

@Blackdevil77 Why do you say that you are going to have to run at full zoom? Is your screen particularly large and/or low gain? Just seems a shame to lose a good chunk of the contrast that these models have.

@Zombie10k: Which 3D glasses would you recommend for the Sony HW50ES in regards to comfort, price and quality?

+1 and...

...are there RF glasses for Sony 50, assuming that a RF emitter should be used? (I don't think it would be possible to plug it directly into the Sony, perhaps there exists a RF emitter with a IR receiver that turns IR light into RF waves).

thanks