Sony HW50 / BenQ W7000 / Epson 5020 / JVC RS55 / JVC RS 46 / JVC RS4810 / JVC RS56 Mini-shootout... - Page 113

Well with certain content on certain projectors or at a certain lamp age the image is unwatchable. There is no training to see it, it gets to the point where anyone and everyone sees it. The images eventually get completely separated to the point your eyes cannot even see the 3D solidly anymore, and 80%+ of content becomes unwatchable in 3D. A tiny bit of occasional crosstalk on edges is only the luck of a new lamp in the beginning, this is not how things look as time goes by. My dog cannot even watch because he barks at the ghosting.

I'm right there with ya. I'll probably just live with it if it can't be solved via a firmware update that I can do myself.

Back in the day I had a Sony VPL-HS10 that spent the latter stages of its life making round trips between my old home in Utah and Laredo, Texas. After every trip there'd be a new problem.

The Stewart Screen is expensive. Mark told me to look into Joe Kane's JKP Affinity 1.1 screen made by Da-Lite. It is surprisingly cheap. After getting samples from Stewart, Da-Lite and Carada I have to say the nicest material by far was the JKP Affinity 1.1 material. For a fixed screen with that material, it will only set me back a couple hundred extra dollars compared to what I payed for my Da-Lite HPHC Deluxe Model B screen. I'm thinking once I get my LED projector back from it's RMA trip I may ditch the HP screen and my Marantz projector.

The HPHC material is different than the vanilla HP 2.4 material, right?
Did you try the vanilla 2.4 as well?

I just ordered a Black Diamond Zero Edge 115" screen. I will also be ordering the Sony HW50. My electrician is coming tomorrow so I need to know how far back should I mount the projector? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

JT

I received a sample of the regular 2.4 material. It looks the same as the HPHC with the exception of a grey base.

Check here:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Sony-VPL-HW50ES-projection-calculator-pro.htm

You can mount it anywhere from 17' 7" and 11' 7" away from the screen and it will fit your 115" screen.

I have both screens at home. They are quite similar in the sweet-spot (same structure and brightness), but the HCHP has a much more aggressive drop off.

HI
Any idea if this JKP Affinity screen material can be obtain somewhere as bulk material to DIY ?
Thks.

I'm ditching my HP screen also. Moving to a neutral gain screen, Carada, Snomatt, or JKP 1.1

Why ditching your HP screen ?

So just ordered my X35 and am really wondering how big the difference to my Infocus 8604 is going to be ;-) Has anybody here ever compared these two?

I've had seven DLP's over the years but never a DiLA. Hope I don't regret ist ;-)

thanks, Mike

Howdy guys,
I just joined AVS after reading through this thread. I've been sick the last few days, and I've spent the better part of my free time reading through every post in this shootout. All I can say is...wow. My brain is full of lumens, convergence, crosstalk, foot-lamberts, gamma, ghosting, gray scale, latency, DLP, LCD, LCOS, & SXRD. I certainly know more about projectors than before. However, the purpose of my original visit to AVS was to glean some insight towards what projector deserves my hard earned cash right now. Instead, I've found the "best" seems to have a lot to do with a user's opinion and preference to one technology over another.
Zombie10k's data has been informative and thorough without question. However, his posts on some pages, have been few and far between. Is this shootout complete? Zombie10k, will your findings be compiled at some point and your data placed in one spot, i.e., at the beginning of this thread? Lastly, is there a clear winner of best overall projector?
Thanks for all the work.

If we talk about 'overall', it would be Sony HW-50. But that's just my opinion.

I have a 80in Carada CW screen that I got off of craiglist for $25. I did an A/B comparison with my 120in HP screen with each covering around half. The Carada had better color and blacks to me.Plus, I want to prepare myself for brighter 4K projectors later on down the road. Since, I don't watch much 3D, I'll settle for a larger screen for just 2D.

The pictures are not great, and looks different in person of course. But its an example

You can only purchase the material from an authorized local dealer (or AVScience ) in specific sizes with frames or tensioned electric roll down models.

There are a few online stores selling the perforated material in bulk. Just search for HD Progressive 1.1 Perf and some hits will pop up.
Edited by Seegs108 - 2/1/13 at 8:22am

While the HP material is great when you need high gain, like in my position, but if I don't need the extra gain there is no reason to use the screen as there negative things introduced when using this screen material. First off, its retroreflective which makes setup a pain. Like other high gain materials, there is a "sparklie" aspect to the screen. With something closer to 1.0 that issue is reduced to zero and you get more of a "looking through the window" effect from your screen. With the JKP material being the smoothest material without ANY texture, being color neutral, and close to unity gain you're going to get the sharpest most neutral looking images out there.

If your definition of "best overall" inlcudes 3D, FI, brightness, game lag, proprietary image enhancement and you are not adverse to a dynamic iris then I would say the Sony HW50. If your definition of "best overall" is native contrast and sharpness, lens memory and quality, proprietary image enhancement and RF 3D glasses then perhaps one of the JVC projectors. If your definition of "best overall" is heavy on brightess, 3D, RF glasses and you don't mind LCD then consider the Epson. Finally if you are one of the few that can make the Mitsubishi DLP work in your setup and like the look of DLP and want ghost free 3D then consider the Mitsubishi.

My vote also goes to the Sony for overall.

While we are on the subject of the HP, how do you guys feel about calibration and this screen? Due to the retroreflective nature and how quickly the image changes off axis, are our calibration reports accurate as far as what we are actually seeing from our viewing positions? Coderguy had some interesting thoughts on this in the 7000 thread and I have seen concerns for calibration and the HP in other threads as well (CP and/or lumagen threads).

So my question to the HP users out there who are also calibrated is do you feel confident that your calibration is what you are actually seeing at your viewing position?

There is definitely some color shift tied in with the screen. The HP 2.8 material's gain rolls off pretty smoothly. There shouldn't be too much of a noticeable difference when viewing slightly to moderately off axis.

This is what I hear from non HP screen owners, but the color shifts from different seating distances. I did have an easier time with my other screen with the W7000 than the HP screen.

I've been entertaining the idea of getting a JKP 1.1 gain screen myself.

Easier time as far as calibration?

getting colors correct, plus I am not sure if the calibration from my seating is the same. Another thing is that I'm starting to notice the screen texture, which sucks.

That is my concern as well. Is my calibration report representative of my seated viewing experience with the HP?

I can certainly see the HP screen texture if I look in the right type of scene such as a solid bright blue sky that is panning (just like any screen I have owned), but I dont personally find it bothersome since these type of scenes dont happen all that often and most other scenes I cant see the texture at all. However, if screen texture is bothering you I would have to think the snowmatte or JKP 1.1 would be better here as Mark has mentioned so many times (of course the compromise will be a dimmer image so its not all good obviously).

Just out of curiosity, what would be considered the better screen between the JKP 1.1 and Snowmatte 100? Probably a matter of opinion depending on who you ask, but just curious if there is some sort of general consensus?

I might have chosen JKP Affinity 1.1 over SnomaT based on cost considerations alone but I have a Stewart frame and Da-lite won't make it to fit the Stewart and I ain't gonna do it myself.

That's said, the low gain fabrics being considered here are all very good. There is no absolute clear winner, the JKP being a little less uniform in brightness that the Stewart and the Stewart not being as smooth as the JKP. But they are both excellent.

I always seem to be bashing HP when in fact I have ordered a cheap HP pull down to get my 3D brightness up. But for 2D, no way will I use it. It just doesn't dissapear or have the realism of the others. What.

You can be a blinded by the light viewer. Its OK. Some people like their picture really bright or insist on using a screen that their projector can not adequately light with a near unity gain fabric. Its OK, non sophisticated viewers, yea I guess I am insulting you, not really , like bright. Lokking at two screens, almost all will choose the brighter one as being better.

And all this banter about color calibration. Calibrate your projector and do it periodically, and things will be fine. Your calibration compensates for the screen color shifts. And don't wory if your JVC dioesn't have fully saturated rec 709 green. It just doesn make all that much different. calibrate at 75% sat or do a multipoint. The error makes little difference.

Let me tell you something. You can calibrate until your blue but you probably will not see the colors as they were intended by the Director to be seen. The film was not shot with Rec 709 limitations in mind. It was shot perhaps with the DCI color space in mind. And its was shot on film or with digitally whuch records a much wider color space than even DCI. In the future we will be using color spaces twice as wide as DCI. Your colors are very very limited with Rec 709. What real difference does in make if green id not fully saturated.



And then you have your eyes. As you age, and hopefully you will continue to age, your lens in your eyes become yellow filters. You don't know it, you aren't aware of it. I just found out. I thought I saw color fine. But i just had a glass lens put into my right out ( a catarac procedure). Man are the colors different in that eye. And they are right. My old eye is wrong, everything is viewed through a yellow filter with that eye. Others who have had similar surgery confirm this. Calibration can not take into account your set of eyes. Its based on what a meter reads and not your eyes. Yea you. Pathetic chassing 1 de error when you eyes at your age are acting light filters and cheating you. So many methods of calculating de too.

This whole sport has gotten rediculous. Yes to me, a 1.0 gain or so smooth scren will give you a degree of realism not obtainable with an HP screen. But you will give up other things such as goung really big.

craig. Go with the Da-lite JKP. It will improve your system and you will adapt to the lower brightness. You will improve things. Its not a war. You boys have your HPs and like them . It does what you want. Turn them loudspeakers up.

I'm going to get samples of both and put them on my carada screen to choose the better material

Thanks Mark.

If the calibration compensates for the screen color shift then what you are saying is I am worrying for nothing, right?