AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP › Sony HW50 / BenQ W7000 / Epson 5020 / JVC RS55 / JVC RS 46 / JVC RS4810 / JVC RS56 Mini-shootout 2012-2013
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Sony HW50 / BenQ W7000 / Epson 5020 / JVC RS55 / JVC RS 46 / JVC RS4810 / JVC RS56 Mini-shootout... - Page 124

post #3691 of 4154
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Cutter View Post

Thanks, I never even noticed that info in your signature. eek.gif I've always had the belief that the Sony & JVC units were the best 2 for movie viewing. I ruled out the Sony since I couldn't do a constant height screen with it. So now it's just which JVC. smile.gif My back row will be 17' from my 148" 2.35:1 screen & the front row that the kids like will be around 12' from the screen.

Do you think that a 1.5 gain screen will work okay for my set-up in a completely dark room? I will be using it for 2D Blu-ray movies 95% of the time with 3D being watched every one in a while.

If it's mostly 2D, then the 1.5 gain should be fine. The JVC's provide the best contrast with the iris clamped down. On my 142" 16:9 HP (older 2.8 gain), I can run the iris on the 4810/X55 @ -11 which is still plenty bright on this screen and the contrast looks great.

I was testing e-shift 2 last night, it definitely makes a difference on a large screen with a close seating distance. The 'FILM' mode is the most natural, the other modes such as Dynamic and HD are too overcooked for my preferences. I would still combine the e-shift with the Darbee. With the e-shift 2 set @ film mode and the Darbee @ 30%, the overall PQ looks great.

For maximum perceived contrast, ideally you would have the ceiling blacked out at least 1 screen height away from the top edge of the screen. In a light controlled room, you may see reflections from the brown ceiling wash against the screen.

I recently blacked out my ceiling / floor and it makes a big difference. Now it's easier to see the black floor differences between the JVC and the rest of the models i've reviewed in this thread.
post #3692 of 4154
"What does the Sony offer that you feel you are missing from the Epson? Reality Creation? Lower input Lag?"

Frankly, I am not sure. I owned a SXRD rear projection TV and liked it until the well documented light engine problems made it scrap. As far as I know, that has never been an issue with the front projection units. That old set had DRC (digtal reality creation) with I think is the early version of RC. I thought that worked well and liked it. Epsons Super Res is pretty good too though.

My biggest gripes about my 5020 are that I can hear the fan when the lamp is in high, it has slop in the lens shift dials, and it is one of them that has a noisy iris. The covergence is good enough on mine that I can't notice any problems from my seating differnce. I am afraid if I exchange it for one that has a quiet iris I will get one that has bad convergenvce.

The 50ES would likely not exibit any of those issues and would offer a vertical stretch for an A-lens in addtion, although I do have a DVDO Duo that can do the vertical stretch. I don't have an A-lens yet so that really is not a concern at this point, just future planning. Another thing is the manual iris on the 50ES, which I think is a nice addtion. I get eye fatigue watching the 5020. I assume the manual iris works like a limit stop and the iris still works automactically, but can be manually adjusted to limit how far open it can go.

Let's see..... A black case would be nice...

I am overall happy with the picture the 5020 throws, but I don't have anything to compare it too locally.
I have about 8 days left to return the Epson. I suppose I could try to get a Sony delivered in time to look at them both and then make a decision. I suppose the 50ES would eliminate all the gripes I have with the Epson. It is just up to me to determine if it is worth the extra cost and loss of lumens in the brighter modes that I would be using for viewing a Saturday afternoon football game in a moderately lit room.

Ideally for me would be something that has a motorized zoom with lens memory, but the Panasonic is not well reviewed and I am not willing to pay addtional for the JVC or the Sony 95 to get that feature.
post #3693 of 4154
If you're not worried about color accuracy (which I presume not if you're watching the Epson in torch mode) then I don't think you'll be disappointed with the Sony in bright mode.
post #3694 of 4154
projector ordered.. screen decision to be finalized to day either Carada BW or Da-Lite CC pearlescent.. size 150 inch 16:9
post #3695 of 4154
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkasanic View Post

If you're not worried about color accuracy (which I presume not if you're watching the Epson in torch mode) then I don't think you'll be disappointed with the Sony in bright mode.

I don't watch in torch mode (dynamic), however living room mode is pretty bright and not too bad for daytime viewing. Plus I have calibrated the grayscale in living room mode to tame it down some.

I find THX is washed out looking and the gamut chart supports the way it looks.. Undersaturated in all primarys and secondaries.
Cinema mode looks the best and the color output a lot closer to what a calibrated plasma or LCD looks like. The color gamut is wider in cinema, but so are a lot of the displays these days including the charts I have seen of the 50ES, especially green.

Believe me. I am picky about the picture and I know what to look for...
post #3696 of 4154
^^^^Sorry if I sounded like you didn't understand the compromise of the higher lumen output settings. I was just trying to say that if a reference quality pic is not as important to you as light output then you might be ok with the Sony. From what I understand after reading zombie's results, the Epson pic quality is dramatically affected by light output, hence the lower lumens than the Sony post calibration. If you are as picky as you indicate, you might even prefer the Sony picture quality over the Epson at higher lumen output than a calibrated pic.
post #3697 of 4154
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimed1 View Post

I don't watch in torch mode (dynamic), however living room mode is pretty bright and not too bad for daytime viewing. Plus I have calibrated the grayscale in living room mode to tame it down some.

I find THX is washed out looking and the gamut chart supports the way it looks.. Undersaturated in all primarys and secondaries.
Cinema mode looks the best and the color output a lot closer to what a calibrated plasma or LCD looks like. The color gamut is wider in cinema, but so are a lot of the displays these days including the charts I have seen of the 50ES, especially green.

Believe me. I am picky about the picture and I know what to look for...

I'm going to say the Sony can be just as bright as the Epson if you were using Living Room mode.

Super resolution is nothing compared to RC. No fan noise in low or high and no noise from the iris at all.

I'd go for the swap. You won't regret it.
post #3698 of 4154
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

If it's mostly 2D, then the 1.5 gain should be fine. The JVC's provide the best contrast with the iris clamped down. On my 142" 16:9 HP (older 2.8 gain), I can run the iris on the 4810/X55 @ -11 which is still plenty bright on this screen and the contrast looks great.

I was testing e-shift 2 last night, it definitely makes a difference on a large screen with a close seating distance. The 'FILM' mode is the most natural, the other modes such as Dynamic and HD are too overcooked for my preferences. I would still combine the e-shift with the Darbee. With the e-shift 2 set @ film mode and the Darbee @ 30%, the overall PQ looks great.

For maximum perceived contrast, ideally you would have the ceiling blacked out at least 1 screen height away from the top edge of the screen. In a light controlled room, you may see reflections from the brown ceiling wash against the screen.

I recently blacked out my ceiling / floor and it makes a big difference. Now it's easier to see the black floor differences between the JVC and the rest of the models i've reviewed in this thread.

Thanks for the info. Just curious, where would I have light issues from if the room will be completely dark? I can easily paint part of the ceiling black too if it helps but the only light that will be in the room will be from the projector.
post #3699 of 4154
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Cutter View Post

Thanks for the info. Just curious, where would I have light issues from if the room will be completely dark? I can easily paint part of the ceiling black too if it helps but the only light that will be in the room will be from the projector.

The ceiling, adjacent walls, floor, etc. An easy way to find out is to get everything set up and put 100 % white image on the screen which can be found on any calibration BD (including a free one available here).

Look around the room and see what's glowing. That light will reflect back onto the screen and work against the excellent native contrast of the JVC.

My 142" 16:9 takes up an entire wall and is inches from my ceiling. This is a grid setup, so I swapped in black ceiling tiles and painstakingly covered the grid with this material:

http://www.protostar.biz/flock.htm

Even flat black paint can reflect light. This material is pitch black when light hits it.

flock03.jpg

blackout2.jpg

ceiling.jpg

ceiling1.jpg


This is my room before I covered the grid. Reducing the ceiling reflections to 0 really blacks out the entire room and all you see is the screen. It's very immersive sitting this close to a relatively large screen. cool.gif

blackout.jpg

blackout1.jpg

JVC-mini3D1.jpg
post #3700 of 4154
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

The ceiling, adjacent walls, floor, etc. An easy way to find out is to get everything set up and put 100 % white image on the screen which can be found on any calibration BD (including a free one available here).

Look around the room and see what's glowing. That light will reflect back onto the screen and work against the excellent native contrast of the JVC.

My 142" 16:9 takes up an entire wall and is inches from my ceiling. This is a grid setup, so I swapped in black ceiling tiles and painstakingly covered the grid with this material:

http://www.protostar.biz/flock.htm

Even flat black paint can reflect light. This material is pitch black when light hits it.

flock03.jpg

Very neat product. I wish I could find a paint that was specialized like this stuff as that would be easier to apply & cheaper!
post #3701 of 4154
Thread Starter 
HW50-calibration.jpg

I'm calibrating an HW50 today and not sure i've posted 2D lumens post calibration in the past. This HW50 is 17.5 feet from the 142" 16:9.

With a D65 / R709 calibration, the lumen output is 1162 with the lamp on high. With the iris on 'auto-limited', the lumen output is 866. I was checking greyscale between low lamp and high lamp. There is very little difference between the 2 settings.

This projector can light up the HP. It's located dead center of the screen so watching HDTV with all the lights on in the room looks pretty good.

I'll post the 3D lumen output soon.
post #3702 of 4154
Thread Starter 
3D Lumen output - The default settings are at D65 in 3D mode. The lumen output is 1062.The dE's are ~7-8 with red being deficient. I use user mode 4 and adjust the blue/green. This costs some lumen output which comes out to ~ 894 lumens. The colors look good through the glasses.
post #3703 of 4154
post #3704 of 4154
Judging by his praise of the 3D I'm guessing he got one with new firmware. Zombie, have you sent yours in yet?
post #3705 of 4154
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

The ceiling, adjacent walls, floor, etc. An easy way to find out is to get everything set up and put 100 % white image on the screen which can be found on any calibration BD (including a free one available here).

Look around the room and see what's glowing. That light will reflect back onto the screen and work against the excellent native contrast of the JVC.

My 142" 16:9 takes up an entire wall and is inches from my ceiling. This is a grid setup, so I swapped in black ceiling tiles and painstakingly covered the grid with this material:

http://www.protostar.biz/flock.htm

Even flat black paint can reflect light. This material is pitch black when light hits it.

flock03.jpg

blackout2.jpg

ceiling.jpg

ceiling1.jpg


This is my room before I covered the grid. Reducing the ceiling reflections to 0 really blacks out the entire room and all you see is the screen. It's very immersive sitting this close to a relatively large screen. cool.gif

blackout.jpg

blackout1.jpg

JVC-mini3D1.jpg

Your screen looks awesome.. is your projector ceiling mounted or table top?
post #3706 of 4154
if I remember correctly, zombie10k is rack/shelf mounted his projectors
post #3707 of 4154
Quote:
Originally Posted by kaotikr1 View Post

I'm going to say the Sony can be just as bright as the Epson if you were using Living Room mode.

Super resolution is nothing compared to RC. No fan noise in low or high and no noise from the iris at all.

I'd go for the swap. You won't regret it.

Ditto, look forward to your feedback and thank you's after the swap cool.gif
post #3708 of 4154
still no Epson 5020UB vs Panny AE8000?
post #3709 of 4154
Quote:
Originally Posted by domingos38 View Post

still no Epson 5020UB vs Panny AE8000?

Zombie's made lots of comments about how these two compare.

The JVC 35 just wouldn't be bright enough for me in 3D -- the 6020 is just about right in high lamp mode on my 120" HP screen. The 3D glasses sure do a number on brightness!
Edited by Deja Vu - 3/4/13 at 1:32pm
post #3710 of 4154
For those following along, hearing talk on the HW50ES of a price increase or free lamp offer going away, end of this month. Should know more as we get near to the end of the month.
Reply
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post #3711 of 4154
Thanks Mike.
post #3712 of 4154
Relatively OT, but I'm sure someone here can answer: if I watch a 3D blu ray in 2D am I seeing the exact same video quality (including color, contrast, etc) that I'd see if I watched the 2D blu ray? Or is the 3D video mixed differently to account for tint of glasses, dimness, or any other change? Just wondering.
post #3713 of 4154
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tallnick View Post

Relatively OT, but I'm sure someone here can answer: if I watch a 3D blu ray in 2D am I seeing the exact same video quality (including color, contrast, etc) that I'd see if I watched the 2D blu ray? Or is the 3D video mixed differently to account for tint of glasses, dimness, or any other change? Just wondering.

it's going to be the same quality as the regular 2D disk. There are no changes made to accommodate for the glasses.
post #3714 of 4154
Isn't the 3D version usually a different encode with different compression, noise reduction and/or sharpening applied? I'd swear I've read discussions in the review threads about differences between the 3D and 2D encodes of some blu-rays.
post #3715 of 4154
Thread Starter 
This is a great review of the RS46/X35. They show important calibration information that is sometimes missed in other reviews. +1 for showing the full saturation tracking.

http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/jvc-x35-201302052614.htm#

+2 for discussing 3D calibration. A number of review sites put on the glasses and provide an opinion of 3D vs. the other models with no discussion of how far off the color is in 3D mode. In most cases, the color is off by quite a bit.

This is the '3D' mode factory setting on the RS46/X35 they reviewed, you can see the colors need a fair bit of correction.

3d-pre-rgb.png

My D3 pro meter is sensitive enough to handle calibration 30 & 80 IRE in 3D mode through the glasses. There's been some discussion that there is more to correcting the 3D colors vs. sticking the glasses in front of the meter, but I can say it still makes a dramatic difference when calibrated this way vs. the stock settings.

HW50, through the glasses calibration

HW50-3DCAL-5-.jpg

HW50-3DCAL-8-.jpg

HW50-3DCAL-1-.jpg

HW50-3DCAL-0-.jpg
post #3716 of 4154
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

it's going to be the same quality as the regular 2D disk. There are no changes made to accommodate for the glasses.

Zombie While the there is nothing done to accommodate for the glasses. some movies I forget which one actually look different.

One example that comes to mind is Tangled. The 3d version has the depth of field remove to give more depth.
Also Megamind the picture quality of the 3d is better then the 2d. There are some difference on live action ones as well, I just can't think of them right now.
post #3717 of 4154
Quote:
Originally Posted by tallnick View Post

Relatively OT, but I'm sure someone here can answer: if I watch a 3D blu ray in 2D am I seeing the exact same video quality (including color, contrast, etc) that I'd see if I watched the 2D blu ray? Or is the 3D video mixed differently to account for tint of glasses, dimness, or any other change? Just wondering.

I can't remember what shrek movie it was but it's 2d disc had a much higher bit rate than the 3D disc. Not that bit rate is the end all and be all.

Tom
post #3718 of 4154
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by space2001 View Post

Zombie While the there is nothing done to accommodate for the glasses. some movies I forget which one actually look different.

One example that comes to mind is Tangled. The 3d version has the depth of field remove to give more depth.
Also Megamind the picture quality of the 3d is better then the 2d. There are some difference on live action ones as well, I just can't think of them right now.

understood, I should have been more clear and say that I generally don't see a difference for most of the movies I have. I have network devices all over the house and stream the 3D BD ISO's on regular 2D TV's.
post #3719 of 4154
Have you sent your RS46/X35 in for the update yet?
post #3720 of 4154
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

understood, I should have been more clear and say that I generally don't see a difference for most of the movies I have. I have network devices all over the house and stream the 3D BD ISO's on regular 2D TV's.
That is exactly what I plan on doing. Is there a way to force 2D from a 3D iso if you want to watch 2D on a 3D projector?
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