Sony HW50 / BenQ W7000 / Epson 5020 / JVC RS55 / JVC RS 46 / JVC RS4810 / JVC RS56 Mini-shootout... - Page 130

 

 

The only issues I've seen with motion judder on the HW50 have been using film mode.  I think someone in the HW50 thread mentioned something about an incorrect 3:2 pulldown?!  In any case, I watch a ton of sports on my HW50 and motion judder is something that I'm particularly sensitive to (think zombie and black levels)!  I can say the Sony handles motion very well if setup correctly.

RS-55 is my vote, though if you can go see them in PERSON first (are these floor models), if yes then check the convergence (fuzzy color around menu text or on JVC test pattern), and pick the RS4810 over the RS55 if the RS-55 has questionable convergence or inferior.

These are not floor models. Brand new.

Then take the RS-55.

Yes it will be, room is not quite done yet but i have a pretty dark blue carpet (almost black)

The ceiling I have yet to decide on so my options are completely open. (ill take suggestions)

As of now, ill be about 13 feet from screen, if I decide to do an additional row, the closest seats would be fairly close, maybe 7-8 feet.

White ceiling does not affect that excellent native (on/off) contrast.

But it does affect ANSI... Which is not so excellent, but yes, it is important too.

Do we color the whole ceiling black ( Flat Latex) ?, would it better to also hand velvet from the ceiling and the side of the walls in the front as well? I read somewhere on this forum, the color is calles "mouse ears" black , what brand is this paint?

A white ceiling, side walls, floor, etc....affects general image impact and pop as well. The more you can make your room invisible, the better the image will be in general since there is less distractions to catch your eye.

I got a sample of black velvet and put it up on the ceiling and the difference in the light coming off my ceiling (painted flat black) in comparison was drastic. Not sure how much this will be seen on screen but the ceiling will nearly disappear. I'll have to now find the best pricing on black velvet fabric and how to attach it to the ceiling.

I've heard this many times, and its "implication" seems to be something different than my "perception." I don't argue the numbers. They're easy to measure. However, my perception is that native contrast is much more important than ANSI to overall perceived image quality. Since the objective numbers tell us that native on/off contrast doesn't change because of white walls, ceiling and floor, the implication (to me anyway) is that the "experience" of watching a high native contrast projector in a dark room might not be dramatically better than it is in a light colored room. This is the polar opposite of my viewing experience. For me, darkening the entire room provided the single greatest improvement in my theater. Again, I'm not arguing numbers.

Painting the ceiling and front wall FLAT Black makes a HUGE difference!!!

Come on guys let's stay on topic here, this is a projector shootout thread, maybe we should move this over to the home remodel section for home theater builds....
LOL...just like busting your guys balls......oops can is say balls on here....:)

The big reason the black ceiling helps is two fold:

1) Unless you are watching your projector somewhat dark (sub 10-12 fL), the white walls will make the entire room brighter and still boost the black level above the perceived sweet-point in brightness, even though it does boost the white the same.

2) The ANSI contrast is raised, but the quality of dark scenes are not derived much from ANSI (though they still need some), but the main reason we see it better is because our eyes pickup the screen without distracting light entering our pupils. So although the screen itself doesn't change in contrast, the reception / perception to our eyes does due to distracting light reflections on the walls.

I just ordered some of the protostar light trap material to cover the front of the ceiling a filmscreen back in length. How to you recommend applying it? Should I cut it into smaller pieces or try and apply it as one piece across the whole ceiling (obviously twice as it needs two rolls to go back far enough)?

Yes, it is textured drywall. Guess when I eventually sell the house it will be a pain in the ass but that's for future me to deal with.

So would black velvet work just as well but be easier to remove & cost a lot less? Anyone tried this? Is it better then just flat black painted walls? I love the idea of this product but if it sticks like crazy I'm worried about trying to apply it to my ceiling that is textured.

deleted, didn't know about thread below
Edited by Manni01 - 3/25/13 at 5:17pm

Please try to keep the "black"ing out of your home theater to this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1465053/black-theater-improvment-thread-once-you-go-black-you-never-go-back

Zombie, when will we see the 2nd season of Z30000? Come to think of it, this thread hasn't seen a 1st one yet .
Edited by Elix - 3/25/13 at 5:29am

Quick query.

I've seen a few people say they prefer glasses with removable CR2032 batteries to glasses that have rechargeable ones. I'm just curious why? According to specs, glasses with a removable CR2032 battery will last for 70hrs of use. Many rechargeable glasses say that they will last 40-60hrs on a single charge. Assuming you can recharge them 20, 30, 50, 100 times, why would those that prefer the non-rechargeable variety... prefer the non-rechargeable variety lol.

Obviously there could be a bit of marketing speak and maybe the spec for how long a single charge lasts is inflated, but even if it's have what's claimed, 20-30hrs on a single charge, after 2 or 3 charges, you've eclipsed the CR2032. Unless the battery doesn't hold a charge after more than one or two charges... I don't get it lol.

Not trying to flame or troll lol. I'm honestly asking cause I want to see if there is something I'm missing.