Dave's new Mini ITX Silent PC/HTPC build thread - Page 2

You only need to clip off the end pieces on the RAM heat spreader to fit?

I love that MB (I have one myself for my main desktop), but it is overkill for what you are doing. The extra cost for the expensive voltage regulators are useless with the combination of case, power supply, and processor that simply won't allow overclocking.

David,

Did you finish up your build yet? I see you definitely need the HT4 riser (I am in the process of building a PC with the same motherboard, but the FC10 chassis), and was wondering if there is anyone around who has been able to successfully install the HT4 riser on that board.

Thanks!
Ganesh

David,

Awesome! Thanks for the pictures. This is exactly what I had in mind once the HT4 user guide turned out to be not of much help.

I was loath to mod the screw slots in the HT4 heat-riser, but, looks like there is no other option. Thank you for confirming that temperatures are stable even with the mods.

Regards
Ganesh

David,

I had mailed Streacom along with posting in this thread, and they came back to me with the proper updated PDF for the HT4 user guide (the one on the site is apparently an earlier version which doesn't work -- as we both found out). With the new guide, I was able to fit in the configuration without any mods to the riser components. I am in the process of setting up the software now.

Btw, every time I start the machine, a BIOS message indicating 'CPU Fan Error' pops up and forces me to hit F1 and choose the boot device before starting the OS. Any idea how to get past this message?

Thanks!
Ganesh

Sure, here are some pics:







Here is the updated HT4 user guide (not sure if Streacom's site is updated yet: ht4_updated.pdf 358k .pdf file

This is the mail from Streacom:

I am facing trouble with the ODD installation. Keeping it flat on the drive bed without the brackets seems to work, but if I put the ODD in after screwing it to the brackets, it doesn't. Still trying to figure out the issue. Can you let me know how exactly you used silicon to fix the position of the ODD?

David,

Thanks for the updated pics. I completed my build and all related setup and finished some burn-in testing just now.

For starters, the included ODD bracket does work with my drive provided I place the drive on the panel before putting in the screws. I am not sure why this is the case. I also put in only the left bracket and didn't screw in the ODD to the right bracket which was just attached to the panel. As I said before, I am not able to explain why this is the case.

For my thermal testing, I decided to do measurements only at room temperature (72 F = 22 C). After 12 hours of Prime 95 in max. power consumption mode + Furmark, the core temperature settled down to 73 C. At idle, it was around 42 C. Hopefully, I should be able to present more results (including power consumption numbers and case temperatures) in the Streacom case review / passive HTPC build article going up on our site later this week.

Please raise your hand if you think smashing a heat pipe flat will in any way help your cooling situation. I didn't think so.

I think David did that to make sure the capacitors didn't interfere with the heatpipe's thermal dissipation properties, and also to make sure that the capacitors themselves didn't burn out due to the heat from the heat pipes. Personally, I think most caps are rated for 105 C or more operation, and when I checked with IR thermometer, the temperature around that area was only 78 C. I didn't squish the heat pipes, but, then, I wouldn't suggest that squishing them serves no purpose. I am trying to ask around and see how much a risk it is exactly.

Our thermal testing methodology is here: http://www.anandtech.com/show/6494/aleutia-relia-industrial-pc-review-ivy-bridge-q77-in-a-fanless-chassis/6

Basically, use Prime95 in the maximum power consumption mode (make sure to change it to that, as the default is not maximum power consumption mode) and run Furmark in Stability Test mode (default). I have also experimented with Furmark in Xtreme Burning Mode, but not found much difference.

My processor is i3-3225, which is 55 W TDP (more than the i7-3770T's 45 W). Also, I am using a FC10 compared to the FC9 being used in your build. So, direct comparison between thermal performance would not be apples-to-apples. That said, I would definitely suggest that you try this out in a long-term test and make sure the i7-3770T doesn't throttle. You can use CoreTemp 1.0 RC4 to monitor the temperature and frequencies. Remember to download the portable version [ http://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/php/download.php?id=3 ], rather than the installer seen in the front page since that installer comes with some suspicious add-on software (in their defense, they do clearly point that out in small print directly beneath the link). You can set 'Logging On' in CoreTemp and let it record all the parameters (except the power consumed by the CPU package) to a CSV file for later perusal.

Many notebook coolers have flat heatpipes, relatively speaking. Flat is ok as long as they are not compressed. The heatpipes has texture inside that wick the hot liquid away from the hot side to the cool side. Best is still by bending the tubing above the obstruction. I chose a left side heatsink passive cooling, HD-Plex case in order to avoid this kinds of problems.

There is know problem with some slot ODDs. They are flexible, so some people have disc loading problem with this drive when mounted too tightly.
I published this information/warning here.

Regards

Finally posted our piece (first of a three-part series) on the FC10 + Core i3-3225 build:

http://www.anandtech.com/show/6523/streacoms-fc10-and-nano150-building-a-fanless-ivy-bridge-htpc

Regarding the Sony mounting, I hear mounting it with only 3 screws opposed to all 4 fixed the loading issue. Any problem with the firmware? I bought a Panasonic UJ235A and it's a disaster to work with as nothing supports it. I couldn't even get OEM drivers to load. Want to try the Sony. I would';ve also bent the heatpipes instead of compressing them, oh well. Watch the external power brick as well, the one that came with my Streacom PicoPSU died within a month, check my recent Streacom thread.

Hi everyone

I've had a good read of this thread as I'm building an FC9 to replace my HTTP. Going for a tri core Llano, which should be plenty for my needs, and low power too. Looking at a couple of AS Rock boards - just waiting to hear back from Streacom to see if there are known issues with these boards.

One question: I want to get an optical drive (preferably a blu ray reader) but am not too sure whether or not I need one with the front plastic bezel? I know I need one with at least the orange power button (for the numerous models out there without the plastic bit) but don't know if I need the plastic bit to make the eject button on my case make contact and eject the disc.

Any words of wisdom would be much appreciated

Cheers all

David

Thanks for the reply David.

So just to confo
irm, are you saying that I do need a drive with a front plastic bezel? I've seen some good deals online for drives without the bezel like this one here:



It does have an orange eject button on the right but I'm not sure if you need the plastic overlay to get it working.

Would downclocking a 3770k to 2.5 have the same tdp effect as a 3770t?