BenQ W1070 : DLP Full HD, 3D Ready with lens-shift for 1000$ - Page 42

That reviewer will lose all credibility if they try to do that. It seems that more and more people are coming to this forum to get advice and the members give them what they are looking for. Some who go out and buy bright 720p projectors want to convince themselves and others that this is the best it gets. Most of those projectors are business projectors also. Others may use these to save hours on their main projectors, and buy a 720p projector for material that is non HD or lower than 1080p. I'm positive they would not stop using there jvc or Sony to use their 720p projector.

I have had mine for about a month now and it been left on Smart Eco and I have never noticed any popping. It is a great machine and all I need to do is try calibrating it but the pre loaded settings seem to be pretty good already.

Excellent point. I have both the JVC RS45 and the Benq 1080p. I use the JVC for most of my 2D viewing and the Benq for 3D and some casual viewing and sports.
I do have a light controlled room and there is a big difference in picture quality with the JVC. That being said the Benq is a very nice projector in its price range and it is great for the average user.

I would also like to make a suggestion. Everyone who is interested in this projector or owns one should continue to post in this thread. If you have made another choice or have no plans to get a w101070 please post somewhere else. Once choices are made people tend to support what they have done and it does not help getting into the merits of a person's choices. This is especially true if one has no intention to own this machine.

SOME of the lower-cost 1080p projectors can compete in bright scenes, beyond that no. It is also a misunderstanding that you need a room with dark walls to benefit by JVC or Sony or Epson's darker contrast (native on/off). That is not true, as it is only true if you have external light pollution in the room. Having white walls does not fully degrade the image the same way as ambient light does (both visually and by raw math). We argued out the nitty gritty math in another thread to show why. Native on/off contrast does not care if you have white walls, the reflectivity is proportionate as a percentage and the contrast remains the same regardless of white walls, but ONLY if there is no external ambient light (only the PJ beam itself can be on in the room). Bright scene contrast is ruined by white walls however, but native on/off (dark scene contrast) remains the same ratio because the peak whites and black floor are raised proportionately by the same % in a room with white walls (see below). If you lose too much ANSI contrast though, even dark scenes will look bad, so it does affect how dark scenes look, but not as people are saying and not to the amount people say.

So even if you have white walls (as long as no ambient light), the higher native on/off of the more expensive projectors is still useful. I know it sounds counter-intuitive, but it's because if you have a wall reflecting 10% of the light on a white 100 IRE screen, then it also reflects 10% on a black IRE 0 scree, but the reason on/off contrast remains the same is because 110% x 10 = 11 and 110% * 1 = 1.1, and 11/1.1 is the same as 10/1. But if you added some direct external light, the ratio would become distorted because it does not keep it as a percentage, that is why only external light affects on/off contrast. However, for ANSI as well as intrascene contrast, well the white walls do hurt it, so it is best to have a blackened room. A JVC will still have noticeably higher contrast in a white-wall'd room than another cheaper projector.

Now if you have ambient light or any external light source, then yah, you mise well buy a cheaper projector because contrast is going to be blown out.

Lots of people are misunderstanding this.
Edited by coderguy - 1/12/13 at 9:31am

Can someone post after calibration values with their actual menu names and exact numbers for this projector? I looked at Projectorreviews.com's calibration but they are descibing menus that don't exist and using relative values (R = -7, B = 9 etc.) instead of exact values. My projector is running firmware 1.02 and is also acting a bit weird. It seems it doesn't remember the calibration settings I've adjusted even though I'm clearly saving them in menus.

I'm running 1.02 as well....I tried to follow what the projectorreviews calibration.com suggested...
This is what I did when I tried to follow directions. Reset to default values for all video settings first....then I went into the USER1 mode, then went down so it would use CINEMA settings as the USER1 settings(forgot the exact menu words were, but just under the user1 and is usually blanked out except for user modes).....Now that user1 has the same values as cinema, when it says -7 or 9...then u just subtrast 7 or add 9 to the values....weird how it mentions tint and saturation when I can't even find that in those settings in user1 mode.....

I don't know if anyone saw, but the W1070 is in stock on BenQ's US site now.

http://shop.benq.us/ProductDetail.aspx?id=481

I really want a new projector and am looking at this one. I currently have a Marantz VP4001. I'm not sure if the tech has progressed enough that an entry level PJ is a lateral trade or if it would be an improvement. It's this PJ or go upto the $2000 price point.
Edited by Despoiler - 1/12/13 at 10:53am

I am using smart eco as well...I actually really like the way the colors look when Brilliant Color is ON....it looks like an LED monitor and all bright and everything...but why do reviewers suggest you turn this off? Does it give off a more fake look thats not as color accurate as it was meant to be?

1.6 seems very low for gamma settings. Most calibrators recommend 2.4 fo4 films. This should be especially true for 3D. There are, however, perfect answers.

One Quick answer is, different sets perform better/worse with different gamma.

2.2 is the widely used setting and is recommended for brighter viewing environments (as you lower your gamma, your image gets brighter and more washed out)

2.4 is also often used, and is for displays that are viewed in a darker viewing environment (when using higher gamma, the image will get darker)

I wouldn't worry about your gamma unless you are using a colorimeter to calibrate it (and your set has an adjustable gamma). Stick to whatever is the default for your set.


See information and views on Brilliant Color settings from Trusted Reviews.

http://www.trustedreviews.com/benq-w1070_Projector_review

I use a higher gamma setting at night, I like it even up to 2.6. And brilliant colour stays on for me, always. I just find it pops more. If I had a blackened room and a dedicated screen, I'll take the time to calibrate properly and might change my mind.

It's like the difference between pure unadulterated stereo audio. Sure, it's the way it was intended, but then again, I have all these other speakers sitting there, doing nothing all the time. More sound = better. There's always some kind of processing, might as well use the settings that gives you thrills and chills. Same thing with super high FPS reclocking. There are visual anomalies there, but it just feels like thus far, I'd been wasting 50% of the viewing potential of both my plasma and my projector. Why shouldn't I see interpolated frames? It's SO much better, IMO. So many TV shows are encoded at not even 30 fps, but 24 even. The animation sucks at that framerate. Let's go back to 1920s projector tech in black n white with a piano player behind the screen playing the soundtrack live while we're at it.

How is the 3D Vision quality? I have a Benq W700 and it's pretty good.

I have a question about screens : Is the image quite a bit sharper when projected on a proper screen as opposed to your wall? I guess the minor bumps here and there would contribute to diffusing the image more.

Also, does a > 1.0 gain silver screen increase the contrast AND brightness over a white one? What's the sweet spot for gain in 3D? Is there a general rule of thumb to follow here, or is the consensus that silver is best with 2D, if you have the lumens to spare, and 3D needs all brightness you can manage (especially at larger screen sizes). I'm going to build myself a prism lens and a 50-54" high screen (maybe around 13-15 feet wide in 'scope aspect tario, I guess), and want to start speccing out what other people's screens are on here, and what they recommend doing (or not doing). I'm going DIY all the way, I like starting cheap then going up to more expensive, plus projects are fun.

From trustedreviews "Yes, turning off Brilliant Colour means the image's colour saturations take a slight hit too, but actually for us this results in colours looking more natural and even-handed."

Can't decide which to choose..

I hate shipping a PJ... always worried about transit damage.

I hate shipping a PJ... always worried about transit damage.

I hate shipping a PJ... always worried about transit damage.

lol we know you hate shipping a projector since theres the risk of transit damage.

Can anyone speak to the offset and lens shift of the W1070? I ordered the projector and it will be here on Monday. I have a 100" dragonfly HC screen and need the throw to be at 8'4". I will be ceiling mounting and the center of the lens will be approx 8" from ceiling. The top of the screen is mounted 15" below the ceiling. I'm getting a couple of answers what the max lens shift and offset would be on a 100" screen with a 8'4" throw with this PJ. Some say the image can go about 14" below the lens based on the calculation of a 130% offset on a 100" screen but others say around 6". Am I going to be able to get the 7" offset I need so I don't have to keystone the image? What exactly would be my range of offset and lens shift. Thanks!

3D is the reason I got the projector since it is bright and there is no ghosting. I have a JVS RS45 for 2D.

I am not sure what the exact lens offset adj. is but I think I know it is small. I am not sure if 8.4 feet is far enough away for a 100 inch picture. It seems a little close but it might just work. I do think a 7 inches should work. I have mine at about the same distance but with a 92 inch screen.

8'4" is the closest you can get with the zoom to get a 100" image. You can play around with the throw, zoom, and screen size on projector central. They just don't have lens shift enabled on there.

I keep switching back between brilliant color on and off.....I don't notice any more "noise" with it on at all....To me, it just make the scenes in movies, more natural daylight, like as though if I were watching it through my IPS LED monitor...switching it off, makes it look more film like though....maybe in a bad way since it looks less bright.

So this does not have FI?
I would not want a 3D projector without FI, I don't mean to ruin you guys party, but the w7000 at least looks pretty rough in 3D motion with FI disabled. I never use FI in 2D, but in 3D it's a must. I would pay the extra $500 for a refurb w7000 if this projector is as choppy as my w7000 without FI (but maybe it's better?)...

The BenQ site itself has a projector calculator that includes offset. It doesn't allow you to adjust the vertical lenshift, which is only a few inches, but it will give you an idea of placement requirements.

You can also try my calculator if you want in my signature, it has lens shift in there, it should be giving about the correct numbers, but keep in mind the graphic on the lens shift is slightly buggy (so just look at the number and not the graphic itself). Going to update it one of these days, I am still waiting for someone to measure the lumens in 3D mode so I can add it. 1200 raw lumens in 3D is my best estimate at this time until I get more data.
Edited by coderguy - 1/12/13 at 10:18pm

Hi, coderguy.
What do you think about this?:
... it is as clean from cross-talk than the W7000 and it does exceptionally well in the combination of motion handling/flickering: There is no need for FI because it shutters with a multiple of 24fps, so motion is as natural as with the HW50 but there is no flickering either!! I don't know how this is done (some say that it might shutter with 144Hz triple flash in the Benq W1070 threads in other forums, this is still not clear). However, the 3D is VERY gentle to the eyes with this projector and at the same time very natural (no FI neede).

Thanks for adding w1070 to your calc, it's 1000lm in best mode there. Kraine and Art measured 1700lm... ?

Good point on the motion, maybe that solves it so it doesn't need FI... I really would like to compare this PJ to the w7000, if someone is going to buy one for sure, well I could buy it for them ahead of time on a Thur night, and test it over the weekend, then just do an ebay transaction and get it to them by Tues. I will calibrate it for free. This way you don't actually give me any money until I am ready to ship it, but I prefer if someone were going to do this that I have some kind of guarantee they are buying it (like ebay prepurchase from my ebay account). Remember free calibration and I will leave everything as-is.

Well the w1070 could be anywhere from 1000 lumens to 1800 in 3D, I have no idea at all. 1200 is an educated guess based on the amount that other DLP's drop light in 3D mode BEFORE the glasses. These PJ's have to do a few special things and lose more light when entering 3D mode even before the glasses.

The w7000 can do near 2000 lumens in its brightest mode, but without service menu changes, the brightest in 3D is 1000-1100. The w1070 is about the same as the w7000 in its brightest mode, problem being you cannot control 3D lumens like you can in 2D modes. Now you can boost it with some Service Menu adjustments I believe, but it's hard to tell how much and what to do, so chickened out a little until I find a better reference for the SM.
Edited by coderguy - 1/13/13 at 1:58am

Great option for someone who lives in US.
That sucks... I own 720p Acer H5360BD. Can't change modes in 3D, from "movie" to "bright" for example, but I can adjust brightness, contrast, gamma etc. This is very useful, because 3D is too dim out of box.

You can adjust brightness and contrast, but these are generally set to a pluge pattern, if you adjust them beyond the pluge norms, then you will get white crush and/or black crush, or you will just raise the black floor too unnaturally high. You can adjust the gamma, contrast, and brightness, but generally you should be using pluge patterns to do so from the AVS Rec 709 test disk, not compromising your contrast just to get 3D a tiny bit brighter looking.

I highly recommend downloading the FREE AVS Rec709 test disk from this forum and burning it with a regular DVD burner, and even in doing so it will play in MOST bluray players and help you get a slightly better image out of your PJ. Ultimately a calibration meter will take it a step further, but many at this price point don't have professional calibration equipment, still this test disk is a great free start.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/948496/avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration

So although it is true in 3D mode you can increase the perception of brightness (and even the near peak whites a tad bit from contrast crush), doing so is not a proper method and is not considered in a lumens comparison.
Edited by coderguy - 1/12/13 at 11:40pm

I would have so done this if I was State side. Win/Win. Biggest thing Im worried about right now as this will be my first projector is how to calibrate this thing properly....