AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Digital Projectors - Under $3,000 USD MSRP › BenQ W1070 : DLP Full HD, 3D Ready with lens-shift for 1000$
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BenQ W1070 : DLP Full HD, 3D Ready with lens-shift for 1000$ - Page 117

post #3481 of 4931
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricoflashback View Post

I like Katzmier's writing style but his recommendations on "settings" for my Sammy 65" LCD/LED were God awful.

Geoffrey Morrison provides the best insight and unbiased reviews - - IMHO.

Probably not his fault.

I'd guess that you like more Dynamic (unrealistic) looking modes with more vivid colors, so his settings, which get him a reference quality picture, probably aren't enjoyable to you. Just a guess, but based on you saying that you use a Cool color temp, I think it's a good one lol.

The other thing is that even with the same model TV, you can't use someone else's calibrated settings. You can sometimes do more harm than good, believe it or not.
Edited by Stuntman_Mike - 3/21/13 at 8:38am
post #3482 of 4931
Quote:
Originally Posted by rwestley View Post

Yes. Most of the Blu-Ray's I use project in 1080P/24 They work fine. These 3D Activve ones are from new stock and work with the 1070 144K. . Contact them and let them know that you need the 144kz glasses. They are the same as the True Depth and come with the hard cases and power adapters. They also are $20 cheaper for two pairs.
These glasses even have the same model number on them as the True-Depths. Get them only from Demensional Optics since Amazon does not have the new stock yet. They just got the new ones in on Monday. Demensional Optics also offers free shipping on two pairs but you must ask for it. Since they just got them in I guess they have not updated their site yet.

I spent two hours doing A/B tests comparing them to the new Benq's and I feel that they are just as good at half the price. They are also rechargeable. I am really pleased that they block the red flash.

Thanks for the info.

Curious. Have you tried the new 3DTV Corp glasses that are compatible with 144hz. Just curious how they compare in terms of loss of synch and Red Flash blocking.

BTW, they are called 3Active not 3D Active lol. No big deal, but I had the damndest time trying to find them based on 3D Active, and others may as well.

Thanks again for the info.
post #3483 of 4931
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuntman_Mike View Post

Thanks for the info.

Curious. Have you tried the new 3DTV Corp glasses that are compatible with 144hz. Just curious how they compare in terms of loss of synch and Red Flash blocking.

BTW, they are called 3Active not 3D Active lol. No big deal, but I had the damndest time trying to find them based on 3D Active, and others may as well.

Thanks again for the info.


Sorry for my error in the post. I should have been more careful. They are indeed 3Active from Dimensional Optics. I do plan to try the 3DTV glasses. I tried the old rechargeable ones which did not support 144k and had to send them back. The non-rechargeable ones look the same as the Monoprice glasses and do support 144k. The superlight red rechargeable ones they sell look just like the black OKBA glasses. So far the Benq and the 3Active (True-Depth) block the red flash the best and synch quite will.
post #3484 of 4931
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuntman_Mike View Post

Probably not his fault.

I'd guess that you like more Dynamic (unrealistic) looking modes with more vivid colors, so his settings, which get him a reference quality picture, probably aren't enjoyable to you. Just a guess, but based on you saying that you use a Cool color temp, I think it's a good one lol.

The other thing is that even with the same model TV, you can't use someone else's calibrated settings. You can sometimes do more harm than good, believe it or not.

Not really. And your choice of the word "unrealistic" is really not apropos. And the "Dynamic" setting looks terrible on the BenQ. In fact, there is only one TV that it looked good on - - a six year old Samsung LCD - - so sometimes, different settings can work - - you just have to be open minded to see what works best for your eyes.

I'm continually amazed at the so called "purists" that will reject anyone's notion of what a good picture is to them and harp on "accurate" and "calibrated" settings as the be all, end all, end of discussion when it comes to picture quality. I used the "Cinema" setting extensively for the past week on my BenQ W1080ST and just didn't like the skin tones and lack of pop in the picture. The same with taking off "Brilliant Colors." And the "Warm" temperature just looks too faded for my taste. I'm also viewing everything through a Pioneer SC65 with Marvell QDEO processing.

In the end, I'll always trust my eyes and try to learn from forums like AVS on what works and what doesn't.

You're right in that using someone else's settings will not give you the same results. But it can give you a reference point to start from if you a dissatisfied with your PQ and you want to try something else without paying for a full, blown calibration. Down the road, I'll learn about the technology to do the calibration myself (probably using Chromapure) - - but in the end, if the 100% to calibration doesn't look good to my eyes, it will be changed.

And nothing against Katzmaier - - except for the God awful setting he posted that took fifteen minutes to load and looked like someone sprayed a film over your screen. But that's o.k. - - it was worth trying the settings to see if they worked on my set.

Regarding: 3DTV Corp(2 Pairs )The most recent upgraded super light rechargeable DLP-Link 3d glasses(NOT for use with External IR emitters) OK for BenQ 1070 , compatible with Benq D3

I bought through Amazon. The only payment option I found on 3DTV Corp's site was PayPal. Plus it was cheaper to go the Amazon route and if any problems, you can return them with their fabulous policy.

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BJAQBGC/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
post #3485 of 4931
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricoflashback View Post

Not really. And your choice of the word "unrealistic" is really not apropos. And the "Dynamic" setting looks terrible on the BenQ. In fact, there is only one TV that it looked good on - - a six year old Samsung LCD - - so sometimes, different settings can work - - you just have to be open minded to see what works best for your eyes.

I'm continually amazed at the so called "purists" that will reject anyone's notion of what a good picture is to them and harp on "accurate" and "calibrated" settings as the be all, end all, end of discussion when it comes to picture quality. I used the "Cinema" setting extensively for the past week on my BenQ W1080ST and just didn't like the skin tones and lack of pop in the picture. The same with taking off "Brilliant Colors." And the "Warm" temperature just looks too faded for my taste. I'm also viewing everything through a Pioneer SC65 with Marvell QDEO processing.

In the end, I'll always trust my eyes and try to learn from forums like AVS on what works and what doesn't.

You're right in that using someone else's settings will not give you the same results. But it can give you a reference point to start from if you a dissatisfied with your PQ and you want to try something else without paying for a full, blown calibration. Down the road, I'll learn about the technology to do the calibration myself (probably using Chromapure) - - but in the end, if the 100% to calibration doesn't look good to my eyes, it will be changed.

And nothing against Katzmaier - - except for the God awful setting he posted that took fifteen minutes to load and looked like someone sprayed a film over your screen. But that's o.k. - - it was worth trying the settings to see if they worked on my set.

Regarding: 3DTV Corp(2 Pairs )The most recent upgraded super light rechargeable DLP-Link 3d glasses(NOT for use with External IR emitters) OK for BenQ 1070 , compatible with Benq D3

I bought through Amazon. The only payment option I found on 3DTV Corp's site was PayPal. Plus it was cheaper to go the Amazon route and if any problems, you can return them with their fabulous policy.

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BJAQBGC/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

not to beat a dead horse but, you cant trust your eyes. thats why its AV Science. no matter how good you think your system looks or sounds, if there are no measurements and nothing to calibrate against, it doesnt really mean much.

its a lot like throwing a good sub woofer in a corner without measuring anything and determining it sucks based on what your hearing. not knowing there are big peaks and nulls in the response, the phase is off, etc.

i use the Disney WOW calibration disc for my video. i think it gives great results. are they "dead on accurate"? no, but they are close enough for me without paying a bunch of money. its a great $25 investment. you can always tweak after that, but at least you have a reference to start with
post #3486 of 4931
Before you go changing settings randomly to slightly adjust to how your eyes like the image, well OPTIMALLY you would need to start at a reference level calibration.

It is not NECESSARILY wrong to POST-ADJUST the image after a calibration to your own liking (sharpness, color saturation, whatever), but you should have one mode in the projector calibrated if possible. I understand it is too expensive for some of you to calibrate a sub-$1000 projector with decent equipment (like a D3 + ChromaPure), but it's still nice to do if you can.

It just makes more sense. Some movies were just shot poorly or have issues and you could in some cases improve the image by post-adjusting away from a calibrated image. However, in most cases it's easier just to leave it alone, but possibly change the GAMMA slightly on a movie as some movies have bad gamma mastering causing problems.

As far as what looks right BY EYE, well that is SORT OF impossible because most movies are not filmed with neutral D65 overhead lighting. The neutral white point is actually only if the camera is perfectly balanced itself (or post-corrected in editing) such as being filming outside under the noon-day sun (or using a non-natural D65 source). Furthermore, you are only adjusting what looks right in that one scene even if you are watching "perfectly filmed" reference level D65 color neutral whitepoint camera work.

I said some confusing things there, but basically:

1) I wrote a post for newbies / layman people to easily understand how the color works on our projectors:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1298652/viewsonic-pro8200-it-exists/660#post_22294228

2) If you don't have calibration equipment, then at least use the AVS Rec 709 Disk which is a free download from this Forum. Some other disks you can purchase include the Disney one, the Spears and Munsil, and the DVE calibration disk. I own all of these except the Disney one (well probably have that one just never used it). Use these disks to do whatever you can, but you won't be able to get the color perfect without calibration equipment.

3) After Step 1, just do whatever you want to the image, who cares smile.gif

4) Eventually buy calibration equipment and do it right, then hit yourself and say DOH!
post #3487 of 4931
Didn't mean to open a can of worms, nor did I mean to insult anyone.

I said unrealistic matter of factly, because they are, in fact unrealistic. Wasn't trying to zing you or anything and didn't mean it as a put down. You can watch your TV/PJ how ever you want. You paid for it lol.

I was just trying to offer suggestions. I too, think that default Cinema/User1/User2 are all too undersaturated. The colors are more accurate, I'm pretty sure anyway, out of the box, as compared to Standard. You can increase the saturation of any of those other 3 modes to your liking, but it should look better, because it will still be more accurate. With Warm temp anyway.

We have all been there. I used to love watching my Sony Wega Trinitron tube on Vivid cool temp with as much EE as you could shake a stick at. I hated how a "realistic" picture looked. After getting more into TVS and then doing calibrations myself, it truly does look much, much better to me than my old way of watching ever did, and I can't believe that I ever watched it that way.

Try my suggestion. If you don't like it as much as Standard, there is nothing preventing you from switching back. Again, it's your PJ.

Just trying to pass on info that was passed on to me in the hopes that you enjoy your TV/PJ even more. I know I do. If it weren't for other people telling me what I was missing, I never would have known.
post #3488 of 4931
Guy's it is probably a good idea to just keep the debate on calibration merit out of the thread as that discussion usually gets ugly and we don't need to beat a dead horse. wink.gif

Jason
post #3489 of 4931
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Before you go changing settings randomly to slightly adjust to how your eyes like the image, well OPTIMALLY you would need to start at a reference level calibration.

It is not NECESSARILY wrong to POST-ADJUST the image after a calibration to your own liking (sharpness, color saturation, whatever), but you should have one mode in the projector calibrated if possible. I understand it is too expensive for some of you to calibrate a sub-$1000 projector with decent equipment (like a D3 + ChromaPure), but it's still nice to do if you can.

It just makes more sense. Some movies were just shot poorly or have issues and you could in some cases improve the image by post-adjusting away from a calibrated image. However, in most cases it's easier just to leave it alone, but possibly change the GAMMA slightly on a movie as some movies have bad gamma mastering causing problems.

As far as what looks right BY EYE, well that is SORT OF impossible because most movies are not filmed with neutral D65 overhead lighting. The neutral white point is actually only if the camera is perfectly balanced itself (or post-corrected in editing) such as being filming outside under the noon-day sun (or using a non-natural D65 source). Furthermore, you are only adjusting what looks right in that one scene even if you are watching "perfectly filmed" reference level D65 color neutral whitepoint camera work.

I said some confusing things there, but basically:

1) I wrote a post for newbies / layman people to easily understand how the color works on our projectors:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1298652/viewsonic-pro8200-it-exists/660#post_22294228

2) If you don't have calibration equipment, then at least use the AVS Rec 709 Disk which is a free download from this Forum. Some other disks you can purchase include the Disney one, the Spears and Munsil, and the DVE calibration disk. I own all of these except the Disney one (well probably have that one just never used it). Use these disks to do whatever you can, but you won't be able to get the color perfect without calibration equipment.

3) After Step 1, just do whatever you want to the image, who cares smile.gif

4) Eventually buy calibration equipment and do it right, then hit yourself and say DOH!

Thanks Coderguy - much appreciated. I understand the point of "reference level calibration" and do appreciate the science behind it and will eventually calibrate myself.

My main point was and will always be - - a 100% accurate calibration does not 100% equate to the best picture quality in the viewer's eye - -albeit subjective. The forums are littered with folks who have spent big dollars on a calibration and the results were not what they expected - - i.e. unsatisfied!

And I won't go into the "Best Buy" or "Geek Squad" calibrators because they, in my estimation and from everything I've read, are really not a professional calibration compared to fine folks out there they spend a couple hours or more to fine tune the PQ. Not trying to be negative towards Best Buy - - just from what I've read.

Lastly - - the main benefit of the forums (thanks AVS!!!) is to exchange ideas, understand your TV or projector better and to squeeze the last ounce of PQ quality you can get - - especially if you can't afford a truly professional calibration. The reference to Katzmaier's settings for my Samsung was an attempt to correct what was, initially, "out of the box" lousy settings from Samsung - - which they have corrected with multiple firmware updates and now, I keep everything pretty much "Default" and the PQ is amazing.

I've used the WOW disk and it helps - - but I'm waiting when I can spend the time to learn and calibrate myself - - which is not easy but will be rewarding.
post #3490 of 4931
well, speaking of calibrating ourselves. did they fix the ISF setting not saving yet? is this on all units or just a few?
post #3491 of 4931
Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post

well, speaking of calibrating ourselves. did they fix the ISF setting not saving yet? is this on all units or just a few?

Not sure if they did, but even if they didn't, that wouldn't hinder you from doing a calibration.

The White Balance and CMS controls are all in the user menu for every Picture mode of the Projector. There really isn't any reason to use the ISF mode at all.
post #3492 of 4931
Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post

well, speaking of calibrating ourselves. did they fix the ISF setting not saving yet? is this on all units or just a few?

Unless you have the ISF password to unlock it you cannot access the ISF calibration controls. This is not to be mistaken for the CMS which is full accessible by everyone.

It is claimed the ISF save fix has been released with firmware 1.05.

Jason
post #3493 of 4931
post #3494 of 4931
ISF password is: up, down, up, down, left, right. In the service manual that was posted earlier.
post #3495 of 4931
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricoflashback View Post

Thanks Coderguy - much appreciated. I understand the point of "reference level calibration" and do appreciate the science behind it and will eventually calibrate myself.

My main point was and will always be - - a 100% accurate calibration does not 100% equate to the best picture quality in the viewer's eye - -albeit subjective. The forums are littered with folks who have spent big dollars on a calibration and the results were not what they expected - - i.e. unsatisfied!

I've used the WOW disk and it helps - - but I'm waiting when I can spend the time to learn and calibrate myself - - which is not easy but will be rewarding.

I agree, besides calibrating THIS projector isn't even as important as it was on older projectors. On some of the older projectors people's faces were pink and purple OOTB literally.
Close enough for govt if you tweak it as-is.

Not to mention calibrating it yourself would just cause headaches and cost more money if you've never done it before. I wasn't inferring to start a debate, I was just posting everyone's options if they did want to calibrate it. One reason I've actually been pointing people to this projector is because it has decent OOTB settings, though calibrating still helps some.
post #3496 of 4931
Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post

What's the best way to attach these filters?

i bought a 67mm lens filter. it fits into the grooves but not snug. not secure at all. ho do you guys secure these filters?
post #3497 of 4931
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nimoy View Post

ISF password is: up, down, up, down, left, right. In the service manual that was posted earlier.

Ah, good catch! wink.gif

* Too bad they don't stick for those of us on 1.04.

Jason
post #3498 of 4931
Well I'm going to attempt a firmware upgrade shortly. I'm armed with a USB to rs 232 cable so hopefully should be able to restore the settings also. Wish me luck.
post #3499 of 4931
Good luck! you're doing us all a service brave soldier!
post #3500 of 4931
ok how the heck do you turn on 3d on this machine ?

I cant get into the menu to turn 3d on to auto. i have it hooked up to a ps3 and am trying to play a movie and it keeps saying it isnt connected to a 3d display
post #3501 of 4931
@dchabby, the PJ will go into 3D mode automatically when 3D content is delivered to it. SO I'd say your output device (in this case PS3) isn't dishing out 3D...
post #3502 of 4931
Quote:
Originally Posted by dchabby View Post

ok how the heck do you turn on 3d on this machine ?

I cant get into the menu to turn 3d on to auto. i have it hooked up to a ps3 and am trying to play a movie and it keeps saying it isnt connected to a 3d display

Seems I recall you had to run through the ps3 initial setup again after connecting a new 3d capable device. The initial setup connection just remembers the older tv connected. You might try that. https://support.us.playstation.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/2125
post #3503 of 4931
Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post

i bought a 67mm lens filter. it fits into the grooves but not snug. not secure at all. ho do you guys secure these filters?

going to quote myself with my own idea. im going to see if i can find an o-ring that fits in between the gap of the filter and the outer edge of the pj lens opening
post #3504 of 4931
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nimoy View Post

Well I'm going to attempt a firmware upgrade shortly. I'm armed with a USB to rs 232 cable so hopefully should be able to restore the settings also. Wish me luck.

I also have everything ready to go with a usb to 232 cable. I installed everything on a netbook but I am now going to wait until tomorrow to see how things go with you. . Are you going to use the Service Tool to read the data before the upgrade and write it back?

I read over the instructions it the upgrade does not seem to be too difficult. I considered sending the unit in but it is such a hassle having to re-hang it and make adjustments all over.

Let us know how things go. I have 102 and it time for the upgrade.

Best of luck and thinks for being first.
post #3505 of 4931
Quote:

It looks like it should be fine. I am using the black Mustang mount from Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Mustang-Profile-Projector-Mount-MV-PROJSP-FLAT-B/dp/B000F5NFTS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1363912286&sr=1-1&keywords=mustang+projector+mount

It came with free shipping and works quite well.
post #3506 of 4931
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nimoy View Post

ISF password is: up, down, up, down, left, right. In the service manual that was posted earlier.
I felt like an idiot trying this lol, I thight you were kidding, but no it works, thanks. But I'm suspecting that any adjustments made can't be saved on ISF, meaning you'll have to re put in in the settings again?
post #3507 of 4931
Quote:
Originally Posted by jnabq View Post

Seems I recall you had to run through the ps3 initial setup again after connecting a new 3d capable device. The initial setup connection just remembers the older tv connected. You might try that. https://support.us.playstation.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/2125

Thanks man - that did it !!

wasnt sure what to put when it asked for a screen size so i just left it at the default 50"
post #3508 of 4931
so, has anyone done a fan mod on this PJ? replace the fan with a quieter one?
post #3509 of 4931
Quote:
Originally Posted by dchabby View Post

Thanks man - that did it !!

wasnt sure what to put when it asked for a screen size so i just left it at the default 50"

I don't know how the screen size option affects the image, but glad that worked out and you got the 3D issue fixed.
post #3510 of 4931
Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post

so, has anyone done a fan mod on this PJ? replace the fan with a quieter one?

Good idea
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