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BenQ W1070 : DLP Full HD, 3D Ready with lens-shift for 1000$ - Page 156

post #4651 of 8430
Quote:
Originally Posted by NickTF View Post

Ok, I got ya on the horizontal issue. I extended my ceiling mount with a long galvanized pipe nipple and my projector is in fact mounted 6" from the center of my 106" screen. I think I posted up somewhere about it but it has been a while.

You might be able to do that with the projector you have now, but you will not be able to do that with the W1070. You can not mount it in the middle of the screen. It doesn't have the vertical shift to make that happen. When ceiling mounted the lens of the W1070 will be level with the top of the screen.

You can forget about getting all 2.8 gain out of your screen.
post #4652 of 8430
Quote:
Originally Posted by GCS View Post

Well I just ordered a 1070 this AM from Amazon. Price had dropped another $20 since yesterday so I bit. Should be here Fri/Sat.

Hoping all goes well in the change from the Benq W6000 we have now to the 1070. We already have a Pioneer 62 player so 3D source component is the rack and ready to go. Fairly certain all my cables are 3D compliant (hope so) otherwise I'll need to get a new one for the projector.

Hoping my current mounting spot will be sufficient as I hate to move the mount again and create another hole in the ceiling but we'll have to wait and see.

Greg

You can check BenQ's site and use their calculator to tell if you need to move it or not. If I had to take a guess, I'd say you will. W1070 has a shorter throw than most PJ's and just average zoom. Most likely your image will be too big for your screen if mounted in the same spot as the W6000, but the calc will tell you for sure.
post #4653 of 8430
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuntman_Mike View Post

You might be able to do that with the projector you have now, but you will not be able to do that with the W1070. You can not mount it in the middle of the screen. It doesn't have the vertical shift to make that happen. When ceiling mounted the lens of the W1070 will be level with the top of the screen.

You can forget about getting all 2.8 gain out of your screen.

Ok, now I see. Thanks for your help!
post #4654 of 8430
Well snap! If I am doing this right there is 6 feet of difference in the 2 projectors throw distance eek.gif

I expected some difference but this is a lot more than anticipated.

W6000 17.6 feet

W1070 11.7 feet


Based on a screen size of 60 x 107.

This will be interesting as this puts the projector way in front of our seating (our seating is probably 14-16 feet from the screen
post #4655 of 8430
GCS, you may have a little more play then that if you are comparing both of them will full Zoom. If you compare one PJ with Full Zoom out and the other will Full Zoom in it may be much closer...
post #4656 of 8430
Hope so.

Now correct me if I am wrong but for the best image quality I would want no zoom or does it even matter?
post #4657 of 8430
Quote:
Originally Posted by TropMonk View Post

GCS, you may have a little more play then that if you are comparing both of them will full Zoom. If you compare one PJ with Full Zoom out and the other will Full Zoom in it may be much closer...

Quote:
Originally Posted by GCS View Post

Hope so.

Now correct me if I am wrong but for the best image quality I would want no zoom or does it even matter?

Again the calculator can be used here as long as you know what zoom you are using currently with your w6000.

Do separate calcs for the w6000 and the w1070 and adjust the zoom on each to see what is the farthest that you can place the w1070 and still get the size image that you need.

Again, I would bet any amount of money that you will need to move the w1070 closer to achieve your desired screen size. The throw ratio of the w1070 is just much shorter than most PJ's. It's even shorter than its direct competitors in the Acer 6510 and Optoma HD25.
post #4658 of 8430
I guess I should have paid closer attention to how the calc worked as I completely missed the zoom section, duh tongue.gif


Looks like I can get close but I fairly certain you are right and it will have to move. I may want to even move it to its closest point to maximize the brightness. Lots to think about now.

Thanks

Greg
post #4659 of 8430
Quote:
Originally Posted by kreeturez View Post

The wheel speed is dependent on the input refresh rate.

Set your video device (eg Blu-ray player) to output at 50hz, and the color wheel will speed up. The default output for most video sources is 24hz: 50hz is much better if Rainbows are an issue.

I've hardly noticed rainbows since changing to 50hz, even with subtitles on a black background.

Try it and let us know how you go!

Thanks for your advice. But I had already set the blu-ray player at 50Hz.. I guess I am very sensitive.
post #4660 of 8430
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jungle82 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by kreeturez View Post

The wheel speed is dependent on the input refresh rate.

Set your video device (eg Blu-ray player) to output at 50hz, and the color wheel will speed up. The default output for most video sources is 24hz: 50hz is much better if Rainbows are an issue.

I've hardly noticed rainbows since changing to 50hz, even with subtitles on a black background.

Try it and let us know how you go!

Thanks for your advice. But I had already set the blu-ray player at 50Hz.. I guess I am very sensitive.

Sorry to hear that. Indeed you must be rather sensitive...

I'm don't think there're many DLP projectors in this price bracket that have much faster color wheels: you may need to look into getting an LCD-based projector instead...
post #4661 of 8430
Set the projector to Cinema color mode and lower the brightness a bit too. When I did that, I couldn't see any rainbows at all. Actually I only ever could using Standard, and on white backgrounds with black text. I never noticed anywhere else.
post #4662 of 8430
LOL. Well if this was just a movie room I would but this is our main family room and its used for many, many things and a lot of get togethers where we don't watch a movie. Plus the way things are my kids can practice their soccer skills in the room as well.

Guess I just need a bigger screen then! biggrin.gif
post #4663 of 8430
Just want to thank those who recommended the ND2 filter and 67-72mm Step Up ring. Got it installed today, it is quite an upgrade in term of black level and contrast. I had to bring the brightness level up 2 notches though.

Thanks again
post #4664 of 8430
Those of you that got a replacement from BenQ, did you get an RMA over the phone? I called today, got a barely English speaking guy who asked me for an e-mail address and he e-mailed me a plain rma "request form" for me to fax to them? The form has little boxes to put the model/serial numbers, and the same size little box to describe the "failure".
post #4665 of 8430
this from a blog I read - will be in the market for a low cost projector at some point over the next 12months.

Working on buying a house and then outfitting a basement for a "proper" home theater in "phases" - can't spend the kids' college money (well... at least not all at once)


http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/the-best-1000-projector/
post #4666 of 8430
Quote:

A pretty nice write-up and summary of many of the reviews out there. Nice find.
post #4667 of 8430
Quote:
Originally Posted by accordex View Post

Those of you that got a replacement from BenQ, did you get an RMA over the phone? I called today, got a barely English speaking guy who asked me for an e-mail address and he e-mailed me a plain rma "request form" for me to fax to them? The form has little boxes to put the model/serial numbers, and the same size little box to describe the "failure".

That's how they do it. After you fill out the RMA request then they will email you the RMA with shipping label — both may not be in the same email but you should get both. If you do a quick exchange you will have to fill out a QXChange form that requires more personal information, for some odd reason.

If you don't get the RMA back within a few days you might want to call them to get it emailed out to you.
post #4668 of 8430
Quote:
Quote:
The Best $1000 Projector

Other professional reviews wold disagree with that quote from the review — maybe true when the W1070 first came out. Acer, Optima, and others have now released their sub $1,000 dark chip 3 competitors and they are all right in the ball park with the W1070 with some giving an edge to the competitors based on use case scenarios. Right now the Acer H6510BD is considered, by some, to be the better "all around" projector and/or living room projector when compared to the W1070 — giving the edge to the W1070 for home theater. While some of those same "pro" reviewers consider the Optima hd131x to be a better home theater projector when compared to the W1070.

While the W1070 is good, there is now competition worth looking at wink.gif
post #4669 of 8430
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.G View Post

A pretty nice write-up and summary of many of the reviews out there. Nice find.

I've been following Wirecutter for about 6 months now and I have to say I really like them. They do a nice job of telling you not just what the "best of the best of the best" is but also best alternatives at each price tier.
post #4670 of 8430
Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlesZ7 View Post


Other professional reviews wold disagree with that quote from the review — maybe true when the W1070 first came out. Acer, Optima, and others have now released their sub $1,000 dark chip 3 competitors and they are all right in the ball park with the W1070 with some giving an edge to the competitors based on use case scenarios. Right now the Acer H6510BD is considered, by some, to be the better "all around" projector and/or living room projector when compared to the W1070 — giving the edge to the W1070 for home theater. While some of those same "pro" reviewers consider the Optima hd131x to be a better home theater projector when compared to the W1070.

While the W1070 is good, there is now competition worth looking at wink.gif

this is exactly why i posted this here - I want to hear the "purist" point of view and I know no greater collection of purists than this forum.
post #4671 of 8430
Projector Central just did a review of W1080ST and a description of the Smart Eco mode is unusually different from anything else I have read about it:

"SmartEco mode can reduce light output even more drastically than Eco mode, but there's a catch. In order to really bring down light output, you can't just select a setting from a menu or slider. Instead, you need to find content that has the desired brightness level, then activate SmartEco mode while that content is on screen. The projector will determine, based on the content on screen, what brightness level is appropriate. It will then lock the projector's output at that level until the lamp mode is changed.

If you really want to take down light output, the easy way to do it is to put up a pure black image and then activate SmartEco. That nets you a reduction of about 70% from the projector's maximum. You can fine-tune the setting by using test patterns of differing brightness, but it would be much easier if the projector just included some kind of manual control. "

I thought Smart Eco just automatically adjusted lamp brightness like an auto iris. Can anyone confirm what was stated in the review?
post #4672 of 8430
I'll test it with a light meter but on my previous reads Eco still had a lower black floor than Smart-Eco with full field black (and full field black was constantly projected while changing lamp modes for the reads).

Jason
post #4673 of 8430
post #4674 of 8430
What was conspicuously absent in the Wirecutter review was the mention of the Benq's current competition in the Optoma HD25, focusing on rival HD20 from a few years back. The Benq is the first out of the gate but at this point it's too early to claim superiority. The Optoma looks really good too.
post #4675 of 8430
Heads up for those thinking of buying a cheap ND filter from ebay...avoid those not made of glass! I didn't realise that the one I got isn't made of glass...now the heat had warped/melted a small section of it, right where the image shines through. Distort a section of the picture obviously.
post #4676 of 8430
Quote:
Originally Posted by rayweil View Post

Heads up for those thinking of buying a cheap ND filter from ebay...avoid those not made of glass! I didn't realise that the one I got isn't made of glass...now the heat had warped/melted a small section of it, right where the image shines through. Distort a section of the picture obviously.

Thanks for the info, I was going to buy one from Ebay. I have a New York Camera about 20 mins from me I'll just spend the the extra money and get a Hoya.
post #4677 of 8430
Quote:
Originally Posted by chaka2 View Post

Projector Central just did a review of W1080ST and a description of the Smart Eco mode is unusually different from anything else I have read about it:

"SmartEco mode can reduce light output even more drastically than Eco mode, but there's a catch. In order to really bring down light output, you can't just select a setting from a menu or slider. Instead, you need to find content that has the desired brightness level, then activate SmartEco mode while that content is on screen. The projector will determine, based on the content on screen, what brightness level is appropriate. It will then lock the projector's output at that level until the lamp mode is changed.

If you really want to take down light output, the easy way to do it is to put up a pure black image and then activate SmartEco. That nets you a reduction of about 70% from the projector's maximum. You can fine-tune the setting by using test patterns of differing brightness, but it would be much easier if the projector just included some kind of manual control. "

I thought Smart Eco just automatically adjusted lamp brightness like an auto iris. Can anyone confirm what was stated in the review?

very interesting....I also thought that smart eco was acting like an auto iris....full brightness (according to the picture mode cinema,standard etc) at bright scenes and reduced brightness at low key scenes....

but according to the above maybe it's something different...

any comments from other owners?
post #4678 of 8430
I am getting real close to pull my trigger on this pj and have a question for owner here: based on the throw calculation on projectorcentral for my 110" screen, it shows that this pj has to be 10'5" away. Is this an absolute number or I might have +- inches/ft for throw distance? What is the MAX longest throw distance for a 110" screen from this W1070? Thanks.
post #4679 of 8430
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cowboys View Post

I am getting real close to pull my trigger on this pj and have a question for owner here: based on the throw calculation on projectorcentral for my 110" screen, it shows that this pj has to be 10'5" away. Is this an absolute number or I might have +- inches/ft for throw distance? What is the MAX longest throw distance for a 110" screen from this W1070? Thanks.

Not to sound like a broken record, but use the calculator on the BenQ site. It is more representative of how the PJ performs in real life than PJ Central's.

The closest you could place it is 9' 2" for 110" when you are zoomed all the way out. That is the size screen I have and where I have my PJ placed pretty much. Not sure of the farthest back, but I'd use the BenQ calc to see.
post #4680 of 8430
About the previous post that I mention about the spear inside the lens. Came today the replacement and is the same. That's mean is usual to the projectors. The image is the same except I have to put the keystone from -1 before to -2 now
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