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BenQ W1070 : DLP Full HD, 3D Ready with lens-shift for 1000$ - Page 209

post #6241 of 8564
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tangled Cable View Post

3. Any tips on improving black level? I tried different iris settings, the "brightness" setting, of course, but none of that seemed to make much difference ...

First do a calibration. Your new PJ may be too bright. I found setting brightness to 46 still can still show dark bars below 16.

I also found gamma adjustment has big impact. Try 2.4 or even 2.6.

Wait for a couple hundred hours and lamp will dim down. Or you can add ND filter to bring it down, although that's not something I would recommend, due to the hassles of mount or mount them when viewing 2D and 3D.
post #6242 of 8564
Assembled the family this week to watch Star Trek 3D and Oblivion on our 1910 hour W1070. Nothing but praise for the picture quality all around. Still very much a bright and sharp picture. The opening segment of Star Trek had the 33 year old son flinching from an arrow that flew his direction.

This remains our best ever AV investment. So glad to have done a web search for 3D projectors and found the W1070 before turning on the $$$ faucet to buy a ~70" 3D capable TV! No regrets (including family room TV watching in moderate ambient lighting conditions).

One word of caution: Check your PJ settings after toddlers have been left alone in the room with the remote! Changes happen.
post #6243 of 8564
This thread is just huge! So let me apologize if the question I'm adding here has already been asked.

I used to have a Panasonic PT-AE4000 with a greyish screen. The screen had some problems and I sold it. Got myself a bigger 118" 16x9 screen but this time I choose a white screen, I believe it may qualify as 1.0 or even 1.2 screen.

And I got myself the Benq W1070. My concerns are:


I have a small theater room that has no ambient light and the Benq seems to be really washed out when considering contrast. I've calibrated it with DVE and on Cinema mode it was almost spot on, contrast 50 and brightness 51. Colors were correct with the eye to the filter test.

So I'm wondering is there anything I could do to improve contrast without replacing the screen? The blacks really don't seem that deep.
I've set gamma to 2.2 but even with darker gamma sets like 2.8 it doesn't solve much.
I've turned off brilliant color and set noise reduction to 0.
Sharpness seems to not alter the image at all on my tests so I've set it to 15 and it seemed fine to my eyes.

The only thing bugging me now is the washed out contrast.
Maybe I'm missing something because all I've read on reviews state that this project has a good contrast ratio.

EDIT: By the way I'm also getting clipping on blacker than black bars with my tests I'm using a hdmi splitter and my tv doesn't seem to have this issue. So it must be the projector.
I believe this might also be a concern. Maybe my Oppo player outputting on YUV rather than RGB might be the cause but it didn't affect my previews projector and my plasma screen.


EDIT 2: It seems an ND filter might do the tricky as I've been reading on this forum. Does someone know the size of the Benq lens? Or the size of the needed filter?
Edited by veggav - 9/14/13 at 6:48am
post #6244 of 8564
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post

With all the positive raving in this thread it is good to have a post here and there to remind everyone that the W1070 is in fact a $1000 projector, not the Holy Grail of video displays.
Contrast is this projector's Achillies heal and while the AE4000 wasn't a contrast star (I owned one for a brief period) it was still much better than the W1070. In combination with your old grey screen and the Panasonic's much lower light output the absolute black level would be light years better than the W1070 on a white screen.

I'll quote this for posterity. This is absolute the truth.

I'll order an ND2 filter on monday when it arrives I'll post here.

Thank you for your comment, it was a very balanced opinion. =)
post #6245 of 8564
Quote:
Originally Posted by veggav View Post

I'll quote this for posterity. This is absolute the truth.

I'll order an ND2 filter on monday when it arrives I'll post here.

Thank you for your comment, it was a very balanced opinion. =)

The brightness drops a bit after about 150-200 hours. I just re-ran the calibration a couple of days ago and had to adjust contrast quite a bit. Black levels seem better now. According to others it levels off around 150-200 hours of lamp usage. Just something to keep in mind.
post #6246 of 8564
Am I really the only one with uneven brightness across the bottom third? Left side is quite a bit brighter from left to right. Very visible on subs.
post #6247 of 8564
Quote:
Originally Posted by lapino View Post

Am I really the only one with uneven brightness across the bottom third? Left side is quite a bit brighter from left to right. Very visible on subs.

You arent alone. My top right is noticeably dimmer, I just bought a light meter to get accurate numbers...
post #6248 of 8564
Anything to do about this? Driving me mad since I use subtitles a lot.
post #6249 of 8564
A few more issues with this projector that I've run into:

I was moving the little menu around and I noticed that the left side of the screen is very out of focus compared to the center and right. Does anyone know what would account for that?

With white letters on a black background (the little syncing message that shows up at the bottom of the screen) I can see faint RBE but it doesn't really bother me.

But, while watching movies, especially if there is a lot of fast movement, I will suffer from eye fatigue. My eyes will actually kind of hurt after awhile.

Is that because the screen is too bright? Or could it be a byproduct of RBE?

Finally when using the "contrast" (aka white level) pattern on the Disney WOW disc, I find that the right white bars, which I'm supposed to use to correctly set white level, don't show up at ALL, no matter what I set contrast to. Has anyone else experienced this?

Quote:
Originally Posted by hotjt133 View Post

First do a calibration. Your new PJ may be too bright. I found setting brightness to 46 still can still show dark bars below 16.

I also found gamma adjustment has big impact. Try 2.4 or even 2.6.

Wait for a couple hundred hours and lamp will dim down. Or you can add ND filter to bring it down, although that's not something I would recommend, due to the hassles of mount or mount them when viewing 2D and 3D.

Thanks a lot for the suggestions! I find on some movies this helps, but it also crushes blacks on my setup ... I lose a lot of fine detail in shadowy areas and even some lighter areas ... Still tweaking to find try to find the right balance.

I had a Hoya filter on my last projector and I could never get the focus right with it on, so hopefully I won't have to resort to that again ...
post #6250 of 8564
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tangled Cable View Post

A few more issues with this projector that I've run into:

I was moving the little menu around and I noticed that the left side of the screen is very out of focus compared to the center and right. Does anyone know what would account for that?

Is that because the screen is too bright? Or could it be a byproduct of RBE?

It's called focus uniformity, you can try to exchange the projector to get a better sample, or you can just focus it halfway between the center and left (1/4th to 1/3rd out from the edge of the screen), don't focus at the center with a projector that has imperfect focus.

Brightness will cause eye fatigue, and brightness also increases RBE, so if the projector is very bright and you are only rarely seeing RBE, I wouldn't worry about the RBE. You need to buy an ND filter to tame the brightness as to make the projector not cause eye fatigue. You can change the gamma control and contrast control as a hacked way of lowering the brightness (but it will cause side effects in the sense of clipping).
post #6251 of 8564
I too just recently purchase the W1070 after reading and re-reading reviews, both formal (paid) and personal. I prefer the personal and don't really trust the Paid in - commercial type reviews.
I'm in the process of re purposing a small room for the media only room so I haven't got the screen up or the good speakers built yet. I installed the projector on the 9' ceiling and strung up some temp. power and signal cables so we could watch a movie. (just to check it out, ya know) This is our first projector. smile.gif
The calibration grid did seem to be ever so slightly, teeny tiny bit less bright on the bottom left but it wasn't something that I couldn't live with, I could be imagining it because of the sheet on the wall.
I noticed a "ball" of fuzzy white light on the dark scenes of Oblivion movie we watched. The picture was excellent and I did not see any RBE or lag in fast moving scenes. I would have kept the projector but I investigated the "ball" of fuzzy light a little more and I found an artifact on the inside of the lens when I changed the focus and zoom levels. It looked like it could be a RCH! Somewhat out of place in Korea, but you never know. Here is a photo of what I found.
Projector will be returned to Amazon and a better one (I hope) will be arriving soon. BTW the firmware was 1.5 on the returned one. There was what I thought to be a LOT of light leakage from the front vent area onto my side wall which is ~ 5 feet away from the projector. I'll have to do something about that later. Fan noise was very quiet from where we sat, behind it about 3 feet and mounted 1.5 feet down from the 9 foot ceiling. I hope to get the 1.6 version with the next one. Fingers crossed.

Ron

post #6252 of 8564
I forgot to mention light leakage as well. A ton of light on the wall coming from the right side of the projector.

On the other hand I tweaked some settings as suggested here and my eye fatigue greatly diminished, at the expense of a somewhat less impressive picture.

Thinking about picking up one of the Optima's that are said to have better black level to compare the two ...
post #6253 of 8564
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tangled Cable View Post

I forgot to mention light leakage as well. A ton of light on the wall coming from the right side of the projector.

On the other hand I tweaked some settings as suggested here and my eye fatigue greatly diminished, at the expense of a somewhat less impressive picture.

Thinking about picking up one of the Optima's that are said to have better black level to compare the two ...
I have no light leakage that I noticed but where do u get the calibration grid at?
post #6254 of 8564
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tangled Cable View Post

A few more issues with this projector that I've run into:

I was moving the little menu around and I noticed that the left side of the screen is very out of focus compared to the center and right. Does anyone know what would account for that?

With white letters on a black background (the little syncing message that shows up at the bottom of the screen) I can see faint RBE but it doesn't really bother me.

But, while watching movies, especially if there is a lot of fast movement, I will suffer from eye fatigue. My eyes will actually kind of hurt after awhile.

Is that because the screen is too bright? Or could it be a byproduct of RBE?

Finally when using the "contrast" (aka white level) pattern on the Disney WOW disc, I find that the right white bars, which I'm supposed to use to correctly set white level, don't show up at ALL, no matter what I set contrast to. Has anyone else experienced this?
Thanks a lot for the suggestions! I find on some movies this helps, but it also crushes blacks on my setup ... I lose a lot of fine detail in shadowy areas and even some lighter areas ... Still tweaking to find try to find the right balance.

I had a Hoya filter on my last projector and I could never get the focus right with it on, so hopefully I won't have to resort to that again ...


As I stated via PM be sure your levels are set properly in accordance to your source (16-235 or 0-255).

I discovered that my unit does not always auto detect properly and some sources have to be set manually.

It's also possible you are not lined up properly to your screen regarding the focus. wink.gif

I doubt I have a golden sample but my focus is near perfect corner to corner on a 133".

Jason
Edited by DaGamePimp - 9/16/13 at 12:19am
post #6255 of 8564
You are correct, Jason.

I spent a little bit more time squaring the BenQ with my screen and now sharpness is much more uniform and the pq overall seems much more pleasing, although perhaps that's just me getting used to the newness of the image as well.

As for sources, I'm only using a dedicated bluray player and a netgear media player, no pc connection. I didn't change anything in the menu, but the BenQ started to see the netgear out of the blue this morning, so that issue seems to have fixed itself.

The eye strain I felt previously is pretty much gone completely. Not sure if that is also due to me getting more used to the brightness of the image, or the hours I've put on the bulb, or some setting I've tweaked, or a combination of all three.

Whatever it is, I'm becoming happier and happier with the W1070 but I still think I'll pick up one of the comparable Optimas to compare black levels.
post #6256 of 8564
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tangled Cable View Post


Whatever it is, I'm becoming happier and happier with the W1070 but I still think I'll pick up one of the comparable Optimas to compare black levels.

If you are going to compare black levels by eye, I hope you have some type of meter to measure the white peak first.

Here is a cheap one for $13.00, there are of course much better, but this should do in a pinch just for a simple check on equalizing the Foot Lamberts:
http://www.amazon.com/Light-Meter-LX1010B-Luxmeter-display/dp/B000JWUT6O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1379325644&sr=8-2&keywords=light+meter

If you have to, run one lamp in high if too far off, or change the modes until they match somewhat, and also make sure to run the AVS Rec 709 patterns for contrast/brightness as well as ensure the gamma is close. Gamma is going to be harder to check without a colorimeter, but you can use patterns and A/B by eye for a general idea. Though gamma does not affect the absolute black floor, it will affect how dark you perceive black levels overall that have lots of mixed grays in them.
post #6257 of 8564
What 3D modes does fw 1.05 support? Is there a list for SBS, Over & under ?
For example does 1080p SBS work on 1.05? I don't have any 3D files on my computer so I can't test it
post #6258 of 8564
Quote:
Originally Posted by ringlo30 View Post

What 3D modes does fw 1.05 support? Is there a list for SBS, Over & under ?For example does 1080p SBS work on 1.05? I don't have any 3D files on my computer so I can't test it
List of supported modes in 1.05 is the same as that in the original manual: and 1080p isn't included for SBS; only Over-Under, unfortunately. (1080i will work for SBS - but that doesn't look good ;-)

But upgrade to FW 1.06 (as per the instructions in this thread) and you have access to a much wider range of 3D resolutions; including SBS@1080p.

I can confirm the process to do so is relatively easy, and the added 3D support has made me an even happier owner than I was before. I'm actually loving the 3D of late. (Time to invest in some more glasses ;-) )
post #6259 of 8564
I just got a ND2 filter 67mm and I was wondering, if i have the lens zoomed out, is it ok if the filter is touching the lens? ( I have the filter secured with a bit of tape)
post #6260 of 8564
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

If you are going to compare black levels by eye, I hope you have some type of meter to measure the white peak first.

Here is a cheap one for $13.00, there are of course much better, but this should do in a pinch just for a simple check on equalizing the Foot Lamberts:
http://www.amazon.com/Light-Meter-LX1010B-Luxmeter-display/dp/B000JWUT6O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1379325644&sr=8-2&keywords=light+meter

If you have to, run one lamp in high if too far off, or change the modes until they match somewhat, and also make sure to run the AVS Rec 709 patterns for contrast/brightness as well as ensure the gamma is close. Gamma is going to be harder to check without a colorimeter, but you can use patterns and A/B by eye for a general idea. Though gamma does not affect the absolute black floor, it will affect how dark you perceive black levels overall that have lots of mixed grays in them.

Didn't know they sold light meters that cheap. I just might try that one.

I suppose it is possible that reports from people claiming the Optima's have better black level than the 1070s are coming from users who merely like the default factory settings on one better than the other, but on the other hand there was a site which reviewed both and measured the Optima's contrast at 1400:1 vs 900:1 for the BenQ ... I know pro-sites aren't always the most reliable either, but they actually gave them essentially the same recommendation ... you had to look through the data to see the difference.
post #6261 of 8564
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tangled Cable View Post

there was a site which reviewed both and measured the Optima's contrast at 1400:1 vs 900:1 for the BenQ ...

do you have a link?
post #6262 of 8564
Quote:
Originally Posted by hotjt133 View Post

do you have a link?

Tried to find it again yesterday and couldn't ... I'll have to go back and look.
post #6263 of 8564
Okay, here it is. This is from AVForums. It's not a post from some random person in the forums: they have their own reviewers. Anyway, what they are talking about is contrast after calibrating to reference level ...

For the 1070

"BenQ claim a contrast ratio of 10,000:1 for the W1070 but once calibrated, it actually measured closer to 900:1."

http://www.avforums.com/reviews/BenQ-W1070-1080p-Full-HD-3D-DLP-Projector-Review_498/Test_Results.html

For the HD25

"Optoma claim a contrast ratio of 20,000:1 for the HD25 but once calibrated and with any dynamic contrast features turned off, it actually measures closer to 1,400:1"

http://www.avforums.com/reviews/Optoma-HD25-1080p-Full-HD-3D-DLP-Projector-Review_493/Test_Results.html

Note that they aren't praising one projector over the other and they actually specifically criticize the Optoma's black level performance.

But even so 1400 over 900 seems like it might end up making an actual visual difference ....

On a possibly related note: with my setup, it appears as far as I can tell, that the BenQ is crushing blacks even after black level is set correctly according to a test pattern from a calibration disc like Disney's WOW. And none of the settings I've tried tweaking, including gamma level, seem able to bring them back. If I lower/raise brightness levels the crushed blacks become gray, but none of the lost details appear.

Watching the same image on my laptop I can see the details. Someone wearing a black suit for instance: wrinkles and creases will be visible on my laptop, on the BenQ, the same area of the suit just looks like a mass of black or gray-black with no detail in the image.

This isn't always apparent but on certain images it most definitely is.

I would say my netgear media player could be to blame, except I can see black crush with my dedicated sony bluray player as well.

EDIT: This appears to be very inconsistent. I just watched the trailer for RIPD on the BenQ==there is a lot of black clothing worn in that trailer, and the BenQ had no trouble with any of it ... Not sure what to make of this.
Edited by Tangled Cable - 9/16/13 at 9:54pm
post #6264 of 8564
This is a long running but still active thread so I thought I'd start here:

I'm completely new to the projector world and just purcahsed a home that had a media room setup. In ceiling and wall speakers all setup with in wall wiring, and a 92 inch diagonal fixed projector screen already centered in the room. Screen and speakers are still there, no projector though, except for screws marking where the mount used to be.

They had a projector ceiling mounted. Center of the mount bracket appears to have been at 11' from the projector screen. Projector screen itself is standard 92inch (45inch x 80inch). It's mounted to a fixed frame screwed to the wall. Screen position relative to room: 15inch down from ceiling, and 33 inch above floor.

Questions:

1. If I purchase the BenQ w1070 to install in the room, locating it roughly where the other projector mount is, how low down from the ceiling will the projector need to be? I've tried using the BenQ calculator and it seems to suggest that the projector will need to be 13 inches down from the ceiling (to the center of the lens). Am I understanding this right?

2. If I instead go with the Epson 5020UB, same question: How low down from the ceiling would I need to mount the projector if I'm going to ceiling mount?

Thank you for any help or insights
post #6265 of 8564
Regarding the 1400 vs 900 contrast, obviously the Optima is brighter. What they measured the calibrated black level is 0.07 vs 0.06. I'm not sure whether the human eye can see the difference between these 2 levels. I would guess they probably look similar dark grey.

Also, the shadow detail has a lot of source factors involved, eg color space, full RGB vs limited, HDMI vs VGA, etc. Just don't draw conclusions too hastily.

I also have the observations that once I "calibrated" to the correct black level, eg I can see those below 10 black bars on brightness 46, I lost the shadow details in actual movie viewing. While they are not lost, they are just very faint and you need to try hard to look for them. Of course this is not the way to enjoy a movie, and it forced me to increase brightness to easily see all the shadow details, at the price of worse black level.
post #6266 of 8564
Quote:
Originally Posted by ssun1976 View Post

1. If I purchase the BenQ w1070 to install in the room, locating it roughly where the other projector mount is, how low down from the ceiling will the projector need to be? I've tried using the BenQ calculator and it seems to suggest that the projector will need to be 13 inches down from the ceiling (to the center of the lens). Am I understanding this right?

That's largely correct. In my 130" setup the top edge is 8-10cm below the lens. There is also about 10cm of lens shift to play with.

But 92" screen does not do projector a justice, and will probably be too bright. If not limited by the room size, I would go as large as possible.
post #6267 of 8564
Hi people.

How to play properly blue ray 3d video?

I have benq w1070 + dlp-link glasses + HTPC with nvidia gtx260 connected via HDMI 1.4 cable.

I tried to use Arcsoft TMT 5 and Powerdvd 10&12 under vista_32 win7_64. Everywhere player 3D-settings "use HDMI 1.4", the projector settings "3D/frame packing".
Instead of 3d the left eye sees the top half of the image, and the right lower.

Do I understand correctly that:
1) blue-ray 3D in my case, you can only watch with 3DTV Play? Just a bunch of DLP-projector with DLP-glasses do not ride?
2) Does the availability of 3DTV Play Pyramid 3D vision? If so, then how to bypass it?
3) The better to play blue-ray 3D?

I tried to install 3DTV Play of the hand, all the instructions, but after the restart settings Stereoscopic 3D in nvidia panel does not appear. I have not 3d vision pyramid.

3D-mkv upper-lower works good in my configuration.
post #6268 of 8564
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tangled Cable View Post


On a possibly related note: with my setup, it appears as far as I can tell, that the BenQ is crushing blacks even after black level is set correctly according to a test pattern from a calibration disc like Disney's WOW. And none of the settings I've tried tweaking, including gamma level, seem able to bring them back. If I lower/raise brightness levels the crushed blacks become gray, but none of the lost details appear.

Watching the same image on my laptop I can see the details. Someone wearing a black suit for instance: wrinkles and creases will be visible on my laptop, on the BenQ, the same area of the suit just looks like a mass of black or gray-black with no detail in the image.

This isn't always apparent but on certain images it most definitely is.

I would say my netgear media player could be to blame, except I can see black crush with my dedicated sony bluray player as well.

EDIT: This appears to be very inconsistent. I just watched the trailer for RIPD on the BenQ==there is a lot of black clothing worn in that trailer, and the BenQ had no trouble with any of it ... Not sure what to make of this.

 

This is interesting because the BenQ has some of the best shadow detail I have ever seen. My w1070 is calibrated (Calman 4 and a good colorimeter) and while the blacks will never be truly black, or even close, the shadow detail is superb. So my question would be: are you 100% sure you have adjusted it properly?  I am not familiar with the Disney WOW disc and prefer to use S&M or DV Essentials - using either of those discs, I see terrific shadow detail once the black level has been adjusted correctly. 

post #6269 of 8564
Quote:
Originally Posted by ssun1976 View Post

Questions:

1. If I purchase the BenQ w1070 to install in the room, locating it roughly where the other projector mount is, how low down from the ceiling will the projector need to be? I've tried using the BenQ calculator and it seems to suggest that the projector will need to be 13 inches down from the ceiling (to the center of the lens). Am I understanding this right?

2. If I instead go with the Epson 5020UB, same question: How low down from the ceiling would I need to mount the projector if I'm going to ceiling mount?

Thank you for any help or insights

 

Broadly, the w1070 needs the lens to line up with the top of the screen. What I did was use a PJ mount with an adjustable pole. I set it up roughly correctly and then used the adjustability of the pole to get it spot on, while watching the w1070's test pattern on the screen. This seemed to me to be an easier route than trying to get it perfect using any sort of rigid mount.

 

The 5020UB - it isn’t an issue as the Epson has the biggest lens shift in the business and you can put the PJ almost anywhere and use the lens shift to get the image lined up properly. Lens shift is an optical adjustment so it it has no negative impact on the image quality - it literally moves the lens.

post #6270 of 8564
quick question I currently have a casio xj a140, my first delve into the projector world (I just found a deal and got it cheap). I'm having all sorts of issues with hdmi displaying though....from another thread think we've isolated it to hdcp issues as it's not compliant (any insight here would be greatly appreciated)? My setup is directv c31 genie mini client, hdmi out runs to a powered splitter, that splits signal to projector and then to one more led. Ideally I would like to be able to use the genie mini (it won't display on casio via this setup now) and also use ps3 via same hdmi setup to display on projector by just switching hdmi cable from genie mini to ps3. Any reason why this shouldn't be plug and play on the 1070?. the casio problems have me spooked.

also anybody buy 1070 refurbished? what kind of bulb life do you get with refurbished or is it a crapshoot?
Edited by Sincerity - 9/17/13 at 5:42am
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