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BenQ W1070 : DLP Full HD, 3D Ready with lens-shift for 1000$ - Page 224

post #6691 of 8495
Quote:
Originally Posted by vidkidd View Post

Some additional information to keep you confused.

From what I've seen, the only way The 1080ST/W1070 can achieve a clean 1:1 focus over the entire projection area is to mount the projector at with it's Optical Zoom lens set to a maximum size at the distance that works for the size of your screen. Do not count on using any digital zoom or keystone as they destroy the pixel map and any hope of true clarity. Anything less will keep the projector from throwing a "clean" image. IMO, color and luminance calibration are secondary to attaining a proper focus.

Also watch out for a rattling fan - it only gets worse with time as BenQ appears to have shipped a number of w1070/1080ST units with fans that should have failed the QA process and never made their way to the production line.

So to get the "best" picture I should spin the optical zoom all the way to the "+" sign? I've always wondered about this.
post #6692 of 8495
Quote:
Originally Posted by terminal33 View Post

So to get the "best" picture I should spin the optical zoom all the way to the "+" sign? I've always wondered about this.

With the attached file, display the 4x4.gif as a tiled desktop pattern from Windows or OS X over HDMI.

Push the Optics to a full zoom (largest image projected) and bring the image into focus. The upper right corner of the screen is where you want to dial in the final focus. When that region pops into focus, the rest of the image is brought in at the same time. If you go too far, the upper right corner gains focus and the rest of the image looses clarity,

Based on the optics in the W1070 or the 1080ST, I found it near impossible to attain a full frame of focus without pushing Zoom to it's max.

I use my Projector for more than watching movies and value clarity throughout the entire image. Especially when watching sports or playing the game on the x360/PS3 or Windows. What's the point of having the game action in focus if the interface elements are blurry?



mappingTestPatterns.zip 53k .zip file
post #6693 of 8495

you are right,it would be great if it even hit half that and was still not completely dim. thank you

os9n8Q

post #6694 of 8495
Quote:
Originally Posted by vidkidd View Post

Some additional information to keep you confused.

From what I've seen, the only way The 1080ST/W1070 can achieve a clean 1:1 focus over the entire projection area is to mount the projector at with it's Optical Zoom lens set to a maximum size at the distance that works for the size of your screen. Do not count on using any digital zoom or keystone as they destroy the pixel map and any hope of true clarity. Anything less will keep the projector from throwing a "clean" image. IMO, color and luminance calibration are secondary to attaining a proper focus.

Also watch out for a rattling fan - it only gets worse with time as BenQ appears to have shipped a number of w1070/1080ST units with fans that should have failed the QA process and never made their way to the production line.

You are not going to get perfect focus across the entire image at this price point, you can get close and your steps will help there. But you have to spend a lot more money to get anywhere near 'perfect' focus across the entire image.
post #6695 of 8495
Quote:
Originally Posted by FilmReverie View Post

You are not going to get perfect focus across the entire image at this price point, you can get close and your steps will help there. But you have to spend a lot more money to get anywhere near 'perfect' focus across the entire image.

I guess this isn't in focus?? Im hitting a clean focus field across the image, holding up against my legacy Sanyo PLV-Z3, and retired Sony XBR SXRD RPTV.


The is the level of focus I display edge to edge. So yes, you can attain a clean image edge to edge at this price point. eek.gifcool.gif Now light even distribution is another thing all together... and is something that BenQ's designs definitely have issues with.


Edited by vidkidd - 11/8/13 at 12:38am
post #6696 of 8495
Thanks again vidkidd for posting those images. It is helpful using that 4x4 .gif to see what the unit is projecting in terms of focus uniformity. I have a couple of questions that are so basic that I'm embarrassed to ask, but here goes anyway: Is max zoom with the slider positioned to the right or to the left? And second, shouldn't the focus ring work independently of the zoom function? What I mean is, if I have to refocus for whatever reason, dialing the focus ring also seems to zoom the image. Is that normal?
Carl
post #6697 of 8495
Hey Guys,

I am looking at purchasing this project for my theater room in the next couple of months. I am currently making all the measurements to hang my screen, determine size, projector location etc. I am mounting this from the roof so my question will be from that perspective, the instructions say that center of lens for my screen size can be a maximum of ~ 2-3 inches above top of screen. I get this since there is only so much vertical shift, what about how close to the center of the screen the projector can be? I.E. can I mount this with the center of the lense 2-3 inches below the top of my screen?
Thanks,
post #6698 of 8495
Quote:
Originally Posted by meditator1 View Post

Thanks again vidkidd for posting those images. It is helpful using that 4x4 .gif to see what the unit is projecting in terms of focus uniformity. I have a couple of questions that are so basic that I'm embarrassed to ask, but here goes anyway: Is max zoom with the slider positioned to the right or to the left? And second, shouldn't the focus ring work independently of the zoom function? What I mean is, if I have to refocus for whatever reason, dialing the focus ring also seems to zoom the image. Is that normal?
Carl

Is max zoom with the slider positioned to the right or to the left?
looking at the projector, facing towards the screen - max xoom is positioned to the right.

Shouldn't the focus ring work independently of the zoom function? What I mean is, if I have to refocus for whatever reason, dialing the focus ring also seems to zoom the image. Is that normal?
Yes it does. The focus ring is located in front of the Zoom control. It does not have a motion limiting control like the zoom does. When focusing the image, it will attain a small level of "zoom" but it is very minimal compared to when using the zoom.



After you dial in the focus with a larger pattern, such as 4x4, you and drop down to 3x3(grid)


With the 2X1 (vertical pattern), once dialed in, the BenQ is capable of projecting a clear output across the entire image. It just takes a bit of patience and fine manipulation of the focus ring.




Although it's not visible in the captured image due to a high level of JPEG compression added at AVS, on a Severtson Screen, I have a crystal clear image for my desktop - edge to edge.


Edited by vidkidd - 11/8/13 at 12:20pm
post #6699 of 8495
Quote:
Originally Posted by bighvy76 View Post

these are good glasses and a good setting

Thanks! Are these the settings most of you are using even without ND2 filter?
post #6700 of 8495
Quote:
Originally Posted by bighvy76 View Post

these are good glasses and a good setting

Has anyone compared these glasses to the 3DTV Corp glasses at $29 each?

http://www.amazon.com/DLP-LINK-3D-Glasses-Projectors-Mitsubishi/dp/B004G2VJM6
post #6701 of 8495
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grayson73 View Post

Has anyone compared these glasses to the 3DTV Corp glasses at $29 each?

http://www.amazon.com/DLP-LINK-3D-Glasses-Projectors-Mitsubishi/dp/B004G2VJM6

Yes, I have and they are both very good. The ones from Dimensional Optics are rechargeable and come with a nice case. The 3DTV glasses also work very well but use a common CR2032 battery.
I also have the Blue Heaven glasses which are new and lighter. Got them from Amazon. They are the most comfortable and work very well. See the thread on 3D glasses in the 3D display section.
post #6702 of 8495
Quote:
Originally Posted by vidkidd View Post

Some additional information to keep you confused.

From what I've seen, the only way The 1080ST/W1070 can achieve a clean 1:1 focus over the entire projection area is to mount the projector at with it's Optical Zoom lens set to a maximum size at the distance that works for the size of your screen. Do not count on using any digital zoom or keystone as they destroy the pixel map and any hope of true clarity. Anything less will keep the projector from throwing a "clean" image. IMO, color and luminance calibration are secondary to attaining a proper focus.

Interesting. I've been using the projector on a coffee table and was going to ceiling mount it tonight. On the coffee table, I've been using it in the closest position to the screen (10') for my preferred image size (120" diagonal), I was planning on ceiling mounting it close to the farthest position from the screen (13'), minus a little wiggle room, e.g. about 12'6" from the screen. That location follows the conventional wisdom that a longer throw maximizes contrast, at a modest reduction in brightness, and should maximize image quality, including focus, because it's only using the best, central parts of the lens. Plus it gets the projector as far back as possible and out of my peripheral vision.

I hadn't really thought about it, but at the close position I was able to get the focus close to tack sharp across the full picture, whereas farther back it does seem like I'm having to trade off focus a little across different parts of the screen. I think I'd assumed the projector wasn't perfectly parallel to the screen, and this would be fixable via fine-tuning the mount. It seems counterintuitive that using the full lens would yield better focus than just using the best, central parts of the lens. But now I'm going to have to play around to make sure I can get good focus with a long throw. Thanks for bringing this to my attention! Will be curious if others are having similar experiences.

EDIT: Thinking about this further, I wonder if what's going on is that you and I were both using slightly off-horizontal surfaces from which to project. When the projector is closer to the screen, this has less of an effect, but pulling it back away from the screen maximizes the effect of the same angle. This suggests that fine-tuning the angle on a ceiling mount, or for that matter of the projector feet when it's sitting on the coffee table, should fix the observed inability to maintain focus across the screen. I can't come up with another plausible explanation for why we'd observe this phenomenon otherwise, it seems like the reverse of what one would expect.
Edited by niccolo - 11/8/13 at 3:01pm
post #6703 of 8495
Deleted
post #6704 of 8495
Quote:
Originally Posted by niccolo View Post

Interesting. I've been using the projector on a coffee table and was going to ceiling mount it tonight. On the coffee table, I've been using it in the closest position to the screen (10') for my preferred image size (120" diagonal), I was planning on ceiling mounting it close to the farthest position from the screen (13'), minus a little wiggle room, e.g. about 12'6" from the screen. That location follows the conventional wisdom that a longer throw maximizes contrast, at a modest reduction in brightness, and should maximize image quality, including focus, because it's only using the best, central parts of the lens. Plus it gets the projector as far back as possible and out of my peripheral vision.

I hadn't really thought about it, but at the close position I was able to get the focus close to tack sharp across the full picture, whereas farther back it does seem like I'm having to trade off focus a little across different parts of the screen. I think I'd assumed the projector wasn't perfectly parallel to the screen, and this would be fixable via fine-tuning the mount. It seems counterintuitive that using the full lens would yield better focus than just using the best, central parts of the lens. But now I'm going to have to play around to make sure I can get good focus with a long throw. Thanks for bringing this to my attention! Will be curious if others are having similar experiences.

EDIT: Thinking about this further, I wonder if what's going on is that you and I were both using slightly off-horizontal surfaces from which to project. When the projector is closer to the screen, this has less of an effect, but pulling it back away from the screen maximizes the effect of the same angle. This suggests that fine-tuning the angle on a ceiling mount, or for that matter of the projector feet when it's sitting on the coffee table, should fix the observed inability to maintain focus across the screen. I can't come up with another plausible explanation for why we'd observe this phenomenon otherwise, it seems like the reverse of what one would expect.

From what I can tell, when the lens is at a minimum zoom - or anything less than maximum for that matter, the optics are unable to attain a fully focused image. the 2x1 background drops to fuzz in the bottom middle of the image and it's impossible to bring that region into focus with the rest of the screen. Which is not an issue at Maximum zoom.

I can see how there is an impression that this projector cannot attain a full field focus as it appears to have a single sweet spot for the best possible image. If you don't place it in the exact location, there is no hope of a focused image.

I should also report that the amount of focus variance across the display field is at it's most extreme when set to a minimal optical zoom.
post #6705 of 8495
I've also had this focus problem with my W1070. I mounted it at closer to further throw with a small amount of zoom and the lower right portion would be blurry if I tried to focus a razor sharp image in the rest of the screen, so I had to settle for a so-so focus at the top to have a not so blurry lower right corner (ceiling mounted so if seen from a coffee table it would be the top left). I tried moving the lens shift to its maximum position downwards and it made the problem worse.

I remembered that when I bought the PJ and before having the mount, I set it up at closest throw and maximum zoom (as I didn't have a long enough cable) and the focus uniformity was better. But then I read that the known wisdom that the best sharpness/contrast was achieved at farthest throw so I decided to mount it that way.

Just today I read this thread and went home to move the PJ at closest throw (about 1 feet forward) and there is a definite improvement in focus uniformity (not 100% sharp though) so I wonder it its best to replace it and lose some contrast or leave it as is. It's a tough choice as I use it as my HTPC monitor and game on it a lot.

Maybe, as a poster before noted, it has to do with the lens offset or the fine tuning of the image made possible with the bigger zoom (I doubt it as I've tried a lot to get a good focus with min zoom).

Perhaps more people can comment on this, or perhaps most dont care as it's not really that important for movies.
post #6706 of 8495

So you are zoomed at 1.20x and you are getting maximum brightness and clarity? I Haven't hook a PC up to mine, but from what I can tell its a little brighter which is nice.

post #6707 of 8495

I also want to ask if its possible that my projector (W1080ST) is possibly dimmer than others, or if it would become brighter after use? It just seems really washed out with the smallest amount of light and I mean smallest. My room is very dim and not what I would call normal "family room" light. I have no way to measure this besides camera exposure readings. 

 

My screen is a HC gray from www.carlofet.com. I know thats not super high quality, but it should help some. I'll take some pictures and post them tonight or tomorrow of what I mean. 

 

Is there a best way to combat this for when I do want the lights on with a certain setting I can put on user 1 or 2?

post #6708 of 8495
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post

Maximum brightness, yes. Best picture, debatable. I move between the two extremes of the lens adjustment almost on a daily basis (2.4 & 16:9 ratio) and do not agree with vidkidd's observation. Perhaps unit dependant.

Are you talking about manual zoom or optical zoom? I thought manual zoom was too limited to do this. What screen ratio are you using?
post #6709 of 8495
Quote:
Originally Posted by meditator1 View Post

Yep, that's same monster. Ha. What I have now doesn't move, but it sure did when it covered the screen. Can't wait to hear what Benq tells you. Maybe you could drop me a note at my username@comcast.net ? Thanks for the update.
Carl

I have to say I contacted BenQ Canada twice via email from there form fill out on there website in the past week and no response from them. Quite poor customer service and unprofessional in my opinion. Looks like they are one of those companies that you have to harass to get things done. Anyhow, I will be calling them now I suppose on the next business day to get this PJ repaired.
post #6710 of 8495
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post

Very astute. Optical zoom only. I am using a constant area screen (about 2.0 ratio). For scope movies the projector is as wide as it will go. Shrinking the image down to 1.78 uses up about 4/5 of the zoom range. Yes I need to refocus and adjust the image height in either direction. I have it down to a science; 1 minute tops. smile.gif Not sure why more people don't use constant area screens. Worried about 4-way masking I suppose.

So there is no issue with image degradation and optical zoom?
post #6711 of 8495
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tangled Cable View Post

The settings posted above are from Sound and Vision as seen below. Might want to give them credit (assuming you didn't do the calibration for them, of course.)

http://www.soundandvision.com/content/benq-w1070-3d-dlp-projector-settings

The settings listed below from Steve Withers at AVForums are also excellent.

http://www.avforums.com/forums/projectors/1761516-benq-w1070-reviewer-s-recommended-best-settings.html

I've gone back and forth between the two of them and find Wither's settings to have even better shadow detail without compromising black level, which is my personal holy grail, so I would encourage everyone to try both.

Steve lists "User 1" as the base preset to start with but I accidentally used "Cinema" and I like the end results even more. He also says to turn Brilliant Color off but I left it on and it really punches up the image without messing up color accuracy or grayscale.
Very much like the Sound and Vision settings except for the aforementioned shadow detail.

Oh man. I mentioned my holy grail above, well now I'm on a crusade: I keep testing them and you HAVE to try the Withers's settings--it's not just black level, but skin tones, white detail, everything. I've never seen this projector look this good.

Tangled,

Are you still using Wither's settings using "Cinema" as the base, with BC on? Are you using Eco mode or Smart-Eco mode?

Also, have you found good settings for 3D?

Grayson
post #6712 of 8495
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grayson73 View Post

Tangled,

Are you still using Wither's settings using "Cinema" as the base, with BC on? Are you using Eco mode or Smart-Eco mode?

Also, have you found good settings for 3D?

Grayson

I am still using the Wither's settings but I may have modified them slightly. Eco mode. As for 3D I bought a colormeter and am attempting to calibrate my own settings. I'm not in front of my projector right now but I think the best so far has just been user two mode with brilliant color on and Green Bias (the high end for grayscale) dropped about ten points ... everything else untouched.
post #6713 of 8495
post #6714 of 8495
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grayson73 View Post

Tangled,

Are you still using Wither's settings using "Cinema" as the base, with BC on? Are you using Eco mode or Smart-Eco mode?

Also, have you found good settings for 3D?

Grayson

Forgot to add that for 3D I use "normal" lamp mode as I really need the extra lumens.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post


(Tangled: if you tracked down the link you mentioned in the 110" DIY Spandex thread please shoot me a PM.)

Totally missed this part of your post. I'll find that "forbidden" link and send it your way.
post #6715 of 8495
If anyone is looking for light 3D glasses I really recommend these and I have tried many brands. The are light and fit over my glasses and are very comfortable. The big thing is that they really block the red flash. I bought mine from Amazon under the Blue Heaven bard but the direct price from 3D TV is about half what I paid. I wish I had found this link first but others might benefit.

http://ahugq.vcfpq.servertrust.com/product_p/dlprl.htm


They seem to be made by Hi Shock a company that makes very good glasses.


http://en.hishock.com/product_view.aspx?rId=179&TypeId=192
Edited by rwestley - 11/11/13 at 5:21am
post #6716 of 8495
Does anybody know why I can't get my 3D blu rays to work with the BenQ?

Here's my setup.

PS3 via HDMI-> Onkyo Tx-805S via HDMI ouput -> 4x1 HDMI Switch -> 2x1 HDMI spliiter (other output goes to my LG PLasma) -> BenQ w1070.

When I put in a 3D blu ray the message on the screen states thats my display device cannot playback 3D content. Is there anything I have to do on the BenQ first or will it auto detect 3D movies? I only got my BenQ on Friday so I'm still learning the ropes.

Thanks
post #6717 of 8495
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dankir View Post

Does anybody know why I can't get my 3D blu rays to work with the BenQ?

Here's my setup.

PS3 via HDMI-> Onkyo Tx-805S via HDMI ouput -> 4x1 HDMI Switch -> 2x1 HDMI spliiter (other output goes to my LG PLasma) -> BenQ w1070.

When I put in a 3D blu ray the message on the screen states thats my display device cannot playback 3D content. Is there anything I have to do on the BenQ first or will it auto detect 3D movies? I only got my BenQ on Friday so I'm still learning the ropes.

Thanks

You'll have to go through the PS3 HDMI display setup again for it to recognize the 3D.
post #6718 of 8495
Try what CheYC said first. Any one of the components or HDMI cables in your chain may be the culprit if they won't pass a 3d signal. If I were you I would start with the PS3 plugged straight into the BenQ with no other component in the chain. Get your 3d to display correctly first. Then add the receiver. Make sure the 3d still works. Add the 4x1 HDMI switch and make sure it still works. Add the 2x1 HDMI splitter without it being plugged into your LG plasma. I know some splitters will default to the lowest resolution when displays of different resolutions are attached to it. So If your LG won't do 1080p and/or 3d then it may be preventing your BenQ from doing so as well. If that works then plug your LG into the splitter. Retest. While this may take a little while it will help you identify the culprit faster than doing things randomly and will be less frustrating. Good luck and let us know what happens.
post #6719 of 8495
I was originally going to go with the Optoma HD131Xe but because of the fact that the screen displays 9 inches below the lens it wouldn't fit my wall.

I am posting in this thread just to make 100% certain the W1070 will fit the bill. I am going to have to drop my PJ about 16" from the ceiling in order to not have to remove my ceiling fan so I need a projector that can move where the image displays on the wall.

I have an 8 foot tall wall, could I hang the W1070 down about 16" from my ceiling and still have a 120" screen that starts about 6" from the ceiling?

Also does a 120" screen sound too big for an 8' wall? I figure I will have: 6 inches from ceiling to top of image, 59 inches for the image, and then have 31 inches left under the image. Sorry for the newbie questions.
post #6720 of 8495
Quote:
Originally Posted by Destx View Post

I was originally going to go with the Optoma HD131Xe but because of the fact that the screen displays 9 inches below the lens it wouldn't fit my wall.

I am posting in this thread just to make 100% certain the W1070 will fit the bill. I am going to have to drop my PJ about 16" from the ceiling in order to not have to remove my ceiling fan so I need a projector that can move where the image displays on the wall.

I have an 8 foot tall wall, could I hang the W1070 down about 16" from my ceiling and still have a 120" screen that starts about 6" from the ceiling?

Also does a 120" screen sound too big for an 8' wall? I figure I will have: 6 inches from ceiling to top of image, 59 inches for the image, and then have 31 inches left under the image. Sorry for the newbie questions.

The bigger screen the better!
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