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BenQ W1070 : DLP Full HD, 3D Ready with lens-shift for 1000$ - Page 227

post #6781 of 8445
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grayson73 View Post

I bought a refurb from BenQ and it has version 1.05 firmware. Should I upgrade to 1.07?

Only if you need the changes. I can't remember what they were but you can do a search in the thread. I believe 106 had some important updates.
post #6782 of 8445
Quote:
Originally Posted by rwestley View Post

Very good points. The reason I asked about the firmware upgrade is that I know they made changes in the fan shut off in earlier versions. I am wondering if they have made any others. It is very easy to do an upgrade to 107 if you or anyone else is intrested.
I am using 107 and have had no problems even with smart eco mode. I originally had 102 on my machine. I am over 300 hours on it.

 

Fair comments. I have about 600 hours on mine. I won't be upgrading the FW because I have an Epson 5030 coming this week and the BenQ will be sold on. It was, for me, only ever a stop-gap. HST, I am blown away by the PQ that can be achieved with the w1070. Mine has been properly calibrated using Calman and it is used in a totally light controlled, dark gray/black room with masks for 'scope movies and other than the black levels I am struggling to see how the Epson will better it. Certainly not to the tune of being 2.5 times the price. But I am a black level fanatic, hence the upgrade. (I have to use the Epson as it is the only 'high quality' PJ that has a throw that is suitable for my room/screen).

post #6783 of 8445
Quote:
Originally Posted by spe411 View Post

After receiving so much useful information on my projector purchases from this site, I feel like I owe something back. So here are some of my impressions after purchasing the W1070 last week and using it over the weekend. I bought it from amazon. Manufactured in August, and it has FW 1.6.

 

 

I agree with every point you make - they all echo my own experiences with this amazing little PJ. Except for the handshake - I am on older FW and I miss the splash screen during handshake like you do. They improved this in the later FW iterations.

post #6784 of 8445
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

Yep. In reality, this is what it does:

"Creates cricket noise."

smile.gif

The problem with Smart Eco seems to be that it maintains the brightness of Normal mode in bright scenes and the brightness of Eco mode in dark scenes, but - despite using the brightness of Normal Mode, it uses the fan speed of Eco mode all the time. This makes the PJ run very hot and this is where the cricket noise comes from as the components used seem to be of not sufficiently high quality to maintain their desired performance characteristics while running at a much higher temperature. This then causes the fan bearings to make the famous cricket noise. The technology behind Smart Eco seems reasonable, but it looks like it needs higher quality components to make it work well.  But hey, this is a sub $1,000 PJ remember!
That's exactly right. My OOTB viewing mode preference is Standard in Smart Eco for the benefits of brightness and fan noise. I thought the setting was too good to be true and why anyone in their right mind would choose Eco or Normal mode. But alas... it was too good to be true. Cue cricket noise rattling. However, after discovering how easy it was to dismantle the projector and access the fan's lube well, I don't think this problem will happen again. What's also interesting is I found the fan only had the black sticker acting as a seal. Most computer fans have the sticker and a rubber plug. That could be the partial cause as well.

Now if only there were a definitive fix for the light leakage. smile.gif

Regarding using synthetic motor oil, isn't there detergents and other ingredients in motor oil that could be detrimental to an electronic fan? Not saying this is the case, but am genuinely interested.
post #6785 of 8445
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

You are using Smart-Eco, right?  Switch to Eco and the noise will go away. There's no real loss by not using Smart-Eco - other than the crickets noise.

Yup I am using Smart Eco. I will switch to Eco and report back on if it got better.

Also I am on FW 1.06 and projecting on a 120" screen from about 12' back.
post #6786 of 8445
David - I will agree with you that Smart Eco provides the best image but the problem is that the fan speed is kept at "Eco" speeds while at times projecting brighter images than Normal mode. The lamp may be dynamic in its brightness but the accompanying fan speed is not. It makes the projector too hot and degrades the fan lube to the point of it making the infamous rattle.
post #6787 of 8445
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyroo View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

Yep. In reality, this is what it does:

"Creates cricket noise."

smile.gif

The problem with Smart Eco seems to be that it maintains the brightness of Normal mode in bright scenes and the brightness of Eco mode in dark scenes, but - despite using the brightness of Normal Mode, it uses the fan speed of Eco mode all the time. This makes the PJ run very hot and this is where the cricket noise comes from as the components used seem to be of not sufficiently high quality to maintain their desired performance characteristics while running at a much higher temperature. This then causes the fan bearings to make the famous cricket noise. The technology behind Smart Eco seems reasonable, but it looks like it needs higher quality components to make it work well.  But hey, this is a sub $1,000 PJ remember!
That's exactly right. My OOTB viewing mode preference is Standard in Smart Eco for the benefits of brightness and fan noise. I thought the setting was too good to be true and why anyone in their right mind would choose Eco or Normal mode. But alas... it was too good to be true. Cue cricket noise rattling. However, after discovering how easy it was to dismantle the projector and access the fan's lube well, I don't think this problem will happen again. What's also interesting is I found the fan only had the black sticker acting as a seal. Most computer fans have the sticker and a rubber plug. That could be the partial cause as well.

Now if only there were a definitive fix for the light leakage. smile.gif

Regarding using synthetic motor oil, isn't there detergents and other ingredients in motor oil that could be detrimental to an electronic fan? Not saying this is the case, but am genuinely interested.

 

I admire your work in trying to isolate and fix the problem. There are additives in motor oil (synthetic oil could be classed as "all additives) but whether they can damage an electronic fan, IDK. Maybe lithium grease would work as it can also cope with high temperatures?

 

Agreed on the light leakage. I find this far more of a problem than cricket noise - I cured that simply by using `Eco mode.

post #6788 of 8445
Quote:
Originally Posted by utee05 View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

You are using Smart-Eco, right?  Switch to Eco and the noise will go away. There's no real loss by not using Smart-Eco - other than the crickets noise.

Yup I am using Smart Eco. I will switch to Eco and report back on if it got better.

Also I am on FW 1.06 and projecting on a 120" screen from about 12' back.

 

I am betting you will report back and say "the crickets have left the building". :)

post #6789 of 8445
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post

Each setup is different, but in my opinion running the bulb in either Eco or Normal is noticably inferior to Smart eco (scene dependant lamp dimming).
Eco provides a dull image on my low gain screen while Normal pushes the barely acceptable black levels even further into the murky grey zone.
I agree that the differences aren't completely obvious, but for me the "dynamic iris like" feature is what separates the BenQ from my old Acer.

 

Yes, this is one of the problems of making any firm recommendations with PJs - conditions of use vary so much. In my circumstances, short throw - 9ft or so, 92 in screen, black room, fully calibrated PJ, Eco gives me a better PQ than Smart or Normal.

post #6790 of 8445
Anyone expecting a BF deal on this pj?
post #6791 of 8445
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

I am betting you will report back and say "the crickets have left the building". smile.gif
I'm planning to get this W1070 or W1080ST. I'm in Asia where room temperature hovers around 85F (29C). I've read that BenQ exhaust out very hot air compare to that from Optoma HD25. Due to my room temperature, does that mean putting the W1070/W1080ST in Eco mode will not eliminate the "cricket" noise?

By the way, are you pairing the projector with your ReAct screen? Tabletop or ceiling setup? Any hotspot issue?
post #6792 of 8445
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylinestar View Post

I'm planning to get this W1070 or W1080ST. I'm in Asia where room temperature hovers around 85F (29C). I've read that BenQ exhaust out very hot air compare to that from Optoma HD25. Due to my room temperature, does that mean putting the W1070/W1080ST in Eco mode will not eliminate the "cricket" noise?

By the way, are you pairing the projector with your ReAct screen? Tabletop or ceiling setup? Any hotspot issue?

On your concerns about heat
The air coming out of my 1080ST was no hotter than the air out of my Sanyo Z3 or an Epson 2030. Your region's heat/humidity should not effect the projector in the slightest. The issue with the Crickets is probably caused by an imbalance at a specific RPM, not heat...

My .02 on the noise issue with the fan......
The Rattle/Cricket "noise" from the fan happened with my 1080ST out of the box with 0 hours on the projector.
The noise happened in ANY fan speed setting. Normal / Eco and Smart Eco.
The noise occurred at power up and throughout the power down cool off sequence, up until the point it powered down.
If it is happening in Eco mode, it's probably caused by the fan's current RMP and not a change in temperature.

Now... speaking with an engineer at ADDA and management at BenQ:
1) the fan is a custom part, not available in the USA from ADDA suppliers.
2) the noise could be caused by a faulty assembly - a lack of lubrication - or both.
3) any lubricant added to the fan needs to be compatible with what was used at manufacture as it may lead to early fan failure.
4) this thread has been forwarded on to the appropriate talent in BenQ to get this issue addressed asap.
post #6793 of 8445
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylinestar View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

I am betting you will report back and say "the crickets have left the building". smile.gif
I'm planning to get this W1070 or W1080ST. I'm in Asia where room temperature hovers around 85F (29C). I've read that BenQ exhaust out very hot air compare to that from Optoma HD25. Due to my room temperature, does that mean putting the W1070/W1080ST in Eco mode will not eliminate the "cricket" noise?

By the way, are you pairing the projector with your ReAct screen? Tabletop or ceiling setup? Any hotspot issue?

 

IDK the answer to your first question, sorry. I live in England, so hardly ever get to experience temperatures even approaching 29C unfortunately.  :(

 

Yes, I am using the PJ with the React II screen. Ceiling setup. There is no significant hotspotting caused by the screen but the PJ itself does have a hot spot towards the middle of the projected area. It is only noticeable here when projecting a 'blank' screen and is not noticeable when viewing normal content.

post #6794 of 8445
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

IDK the answer to your first question, sorry. I live in England, so hardly ever get to experience temperatures even approaching 29C unfortunately.  frown.gif

Yes, I am using the PJ with the React II screen. Ceiling setup. There is no significant hotspotting caused by the screen but the PJ itself does have a hot spot towards the middle of the projected area. It is only noticeable here when projecting a 'blank' screen and is not noticeable when viewing normal content.
Thanks for the feedback.
I'm wondering if the shorter throw W1080ST will have a more pronounced hot spot confused.gif
post #6795 of 8445
Quote:
Originally Posted by vidkidd View Post

On your concerns about heat
The air coming out of my 1080ST was no hotter than the air out of my Sanyo Z3 or an Epson 2030. Your region's heat/humidity should not effect the projector in the slightest. The issue with the Crickets is probably caused by an imbalance at a specific RPM, not heat...

My .02 on the noise issue with the fan......
The Rattle/Cricket "noise" from the fan happened with my 1080ST out of the box with 0 hours on the projector.
The noise happened in ANY fan speed setting. Normal / Eco and Smart Eco.
The noise occurred at power up and throughout the power down cool off sequence, up until the point it powered down.
If it is happening in Eco mode, it's probably caused by the fan's current RMP and not a change in temperature.

Now... speaking with an engineer at ADDA and management at BenQ:
1) the fan is a custom part, not available in the USA from ADDA suppliers.
2) the noise could be caused by a faulty assembly - a lack of lubrication - or both.
3) any lubricant added to the fan needs to be compatible with what was used at manufacture as it may lead to early fan failure.
4) this thread has been forwarded on to the appropriate talent in BenQ to get this issue addressed asap.
Great work, vidkidd. Way to go straight to the source for this information. I believe that the noise can come from a fan imbalance as well. This can result from improper assembly, as is the case with you hearing the noise at 0 hours, or from heat slowly degrading the lube. Do you think the heat from the PJ while on Smart Eco could also have to do with creating an imbalance in the fan? Perhaps warping the blades when the projector fan comes to a stop when it is still very hot? This sounds like a software problem with Smart Eco's fan settings from BenQ and a hardware issue from ADDA providing a low quality fan. Please keep us posted with news from your contacts on this issue. With how easy it is to swap fans, if they get this corrected I would fork out $ to get a higher quality custom fan.
post #6796 of 8445
A link that I just stumbled upon that some of us techie types would appreciate... this will be great to stay up to date on firmware and hardware revisions: ftp://210.65.248.224/Projector/ServiceECNReport/W1070. I was trying to look for a history of firmware revisions and I copied and pasted one of the features about ISF night settings included in 1.07 into Google and that is how I found BenQ's ftp which includes firmware and hardware history as well as the firmware itself in the folder hierarchy.
Edited by scottyroo - 11/19/13 at 9:46am
post #6797 of 8445
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyroo View Post

A link that I just stumbled upon that some of us techie types would appreciate... this will be great to stay up to date on firmware and hardware revisions: ftp://210.65.248.224/Projector/ServiceECNReport/W1070

Great find. I bookmarked this page. Thanks Anyone know the password to get into the firmware link?
Edited by rwestley - 11/20/13 at 2:58am
post #6798 of 8445
How do you guys connect the W1070 to the receiver?

You get HDMI from the receiver, but what do you use to get the audio, from W1070 to the speakers?


My receiver doesn't has HDMI, so I need to get a new receiver with 2 HDMI outputs, one for the TV in the same room, and one for the projector, in another room.

But what about the sound in the room where I have the projector? Do I have to output 2xRCA or mini jack, out of the projector, into another 5.1 receiver, or how?


This means that I won't have 5.1 in the room where W1070 is, unless I have a second receiver in that room?

I know that if I get one multizone receiver, it will send only 2.0 in the 2nd zone (where the projector is).

Or it is better to get a 5.1 system with integrated amplification (like Logitech Z906), connected to the projector trough 2xRCA or mini jack? Will it work 5.1, or only 2.0?
post #6799 of 8445
Kevo

Your source material would plug into the receiver, example blu ray player or video game system. Then you would have a hdmi out from receiver to the projector. The audio would not leave receiver and the video would get sent to projector. The audio would output to your speakers you have setup. No need to run cables from the projector to any speakers. Hope that helps.
post #6800 of 8445
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevo82 View Post

How do you guys connect the W1070 to the receiver?

You get HDMI from the receiver, but what do you use to get the audio, from W1070 to the speakers?


My receiver doesn't has HDMI, so I need to get a new receiver with 2 HDMI outputs, one for the TV in the same room, and one for the projector, in another room.

But what about the sound in the room where I have the projector? Do I have to output 2xRCA or mini jack, out of the projector, into another 5.1 receiver, or how?


This means that I won't have 5.1 in the room where W1070 is, unless I have a second receiver in that room?

I know that if I get one multizone receiver, it will send only 2.0 in the 2nd zone (where the projector is).

Or it is better to get a 5.1 system with integrated amplification (like Logitech Z906), connected to the projector trough 2xRCA or mini jack? Will it work 5.1, or only 2.0?

 

I don't fully understand your question. You don't have to get sound out of the w1070 - it has sound capability if you use it causally for portable use etc.

 

Treat the w1070 exactly as if it were the TV you already have hooked up. Hook up the PJ in the same was the TV is currently hooked up and you will get 5.1 sound through the AVR and the image through the PJ (instead of the TV)..

post #6801 of 8445
Quote:
Originally Posted by kreeturez View Post

Picked one of these up a few days ago (Firmware V1.04); with my decision purely based on this thread (and a few reviews) and have been spending some quality time with it.

A few notes from personal experience that might assist others in their decision:
  • RBE: Rainbow Effect is a massive consideration for a DLP projector. I also discovered that this is something I'm pretty susceptible to. The W1070 turned out to be almost RBE-free for me: but NOT straight out of the box. Here's why: as mentioned a bit earlier in the thread (thanks, JaMiR!), the projector has a 3x mechanical (or 6x 'effective', since it contains two sets of RGB segments) color wheel. 6x is rather high (that's good for reducing RBE): but it turns out it does NOT run at this speed for all refresh rates!
    Plugging it straight into my OpenELEC-Running Raspberry Pi initially yielded more rainbow artifacts than I could bear. Remembering reading about the varying color-wheel speeds on this thread, I was relieved to find that when dropping to 1920x1080@50hz (rather than the default 1920x1080@60hz), the wheel audibly sped up (sounds a bit like a soft jet engine accelerating, when changing refresh rates with an ear to the fan vent), and my RBE woes were gone!
    The slightly lower refresh rate doesn't impact PQ and motion is still smooth (most video content is at a lower 24hz; and gaming at 50hz is still excellent: even 30fps is considered good in-game).

    Hence if your source device allows you to change refresh rates (most devices should), you may want to start by dropping (or even increasing) to 50hz if you notice rainbows. I've found it almost impossible to detect them since.
    This might also explain why some reviewers have raved about the relative absence of RBE on this projector (compared to the competition) while others have said it's on par: they may be reviewing at different refresh rates. Still, try before you buy to make sure (if RBE is an issue for you) - and confirm the displayed refresh rate when you do so!
  • 2D PQ: This is excellent. Mild calibration yields a large, bright, good-looking picture in 2D; especially with 1080p content. 720p content is also great; with well-encoded SD looking OK and poorly encoded SD looking - well - poor. This is to be expected at the screen size, I guess: but for 2D viewing, you won't be disappointed. The only weakness lies with the projector's relatively average black levels (even when using SmartEco), despite decent shadow detailing. At the price point, this is considered a small compromise. Also note that although the projector's high lamp brightness allows a bit of ambient light to be present, any excess ambient light is going to hurt black levels further.
  • Fan Noise: This varies widely depending on lamp mode. Using 'Brilliant Color' and 'High Altitude' modes both on (which increase the fan speed) - and comparing it to my PS3 Slim, running on SmartEco sounds like the PS3 at idle (not particularly loud); while running at Normal or even Eco (!) modes is much louder; comparable to the PS3 under heavy load. The projector's position may make a difference here: if ceiling mounted, the noise may not matter. The fan is also louder on startup than it is after the device has found a source. I've left SmartEco on, which extends lamp life, produces some dynamic contrast and keeps fan noise low, at the expense of a bit of semi-noticeable modulated dimming when changing from a dark to a bright scene. It's well worth it, at least to me.
  • 3D Experience: Your mileage will vary, but this is the one area where I was a bit underwhelmed - for a few reasons. First, the projector's adherence to HDMI-related timing standards seriously hampers supported resolutions for 3D. Half-Resolution SBS rips, for example, are a no-no at 1080p: the standards dictate that 1080i is for SBS, with 1080p reserved for Top-Bottom (i.e. over-under or 'OU') rips only. Starting a 1080p Half-SBS rip at native resolution disables the SBS menu option, forcing you to change resolution to 1080i, thus lowering quality. (Note that this shouldn't be a problem for a blu-ray player playing 3D blu-rays since the player will frame-pack the 3D image automatically. It'll probably be an issue for an Xbox or HTPC, though). This is a far cry from, say, my LG 3D LED TV, which allows either SBS or OU at any resolution or refresh rate. I suspect I'll be re-ripping most of my 3D blu-rays just to support the projector.
    Nvidia's 3DTV-Play technology is even more restrictive, allowing 3D gaming from a PC at just two timings: 1080p@24hz, and 720p@60hz. The former looks good but isn't really suited for gaming (refresh rate is rather low for high-speed play); and the latter seems to be prone to rainbows, possibly due to the 60hz refresh rate. Lack of choice is always frustrating - and here especially, since you actually have to change your desktop refresh rate for some games if you don't use one of those two by default, along with the screen resolution in the game's settings. I tested using Arkham City, which, comparatively, looks beautiful on my 3D-Vision Dell-Laptop monitor at 1080p@120hz (60hz per eye), with no setting changes required.

    Finally, the actual 3D experience on the projector is decent but a bit underwhelming too: the contrast ratio seems to suffer (possibly due to the glasses) - even after some calibration - and images aren't as punchy in 3D as they are in 2D: the loss in image fidelity from 2D to 3D is greater here than on the LG 3D LED TV (which uses lower-quality passive technology, but still looks better) for the same video.

    I also noticed quite a bit of RBE using a natively-supported Top/Bottom 1080p rip running at 24hz on the projector. Even when taking off the glasses, RBE was pretty noticeable at this resolution/refresh-rate/3D-mode. If anyone knows how to improve this to 2D/50hz standards (JaMiR, maybe? wink.gif ), I'd be interested to hear!
    The glasses are also expensive; though they're almost flicker-free and there is no crosstalk. At all. The red hue that washes over the projected image in 3D-mode is part of the DLP-Link 3D standard and is eradicated completely by the glasses.

All In All: This is an excellent, keenly priced device that ticks all the important boxes for projection and produces a seriously impressive image; especially at the price. If the weak black levels and average 3D are not deal-breakers - and you've confirmed you don't see rainbows at 50hz - then order now.

I'm still in the process of going through all the posts in this thread (I'm at page 149). This post from kreeturez I think is one of the most useful posts I've seen so far. Thought it would be interesting to share it again. Thanks kreeturez!
post #6802 of 8445
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommy Mang View Post

I'm still in the process of going through all the posts in this thread (I'm at page 149). This post from kreeturez I think is one of the most useful posts I've seen so far. Thought it would be interesting to share it again. Thanks kreeturez!

A great post, but you should keep in mind that most of the 3D issues he was having is rectified in the 1.06 firmware update (i.e. many more 3D formats supported).
post #6803 of 8445
Quote:
Originally Posted by CheYC View Post

A great post, but you should keep in mind that most of the 3D issues he was having is rectified in the 1.06 firmware update (i.e. many more 3D formats supported).

Thanks for pointing that out! I'm happy to say that I have the latest firmware :-)
post #6804 of 8445
Thanks for the answer guys.

To be more clear:

Now I have one receiver (old Technics without HDMI paired with 5.1 Bose Acoustimass 15), connected like this:

- trough optical toslink with the Mac Mini for digital audio.
- trough 2xRCA with the TV for audio

Xbox360, PS3, Mac Mini and one cable box, are connected directly to the TV for video and audio.

I was looking for a solution to have only one receiver (with 4xHDMI in and 2xHDMI out), hooked with PS3, Xbox360 and Mac Mini, that outputs in one room video to the TV and audio to 5.1 Bose; and in the other room outputs video to W1070 projector and audio to a new 5.1.

Now, if I get a new receiver for the bedroom, where W1070 is, I will connect the new receiver with the projector but I will have to move the Xbox360, PS3 or Mac Mini to the bedroom everytime I want to watch a movie?

It's quite complicated what I need. I have one HDMI cable trough the walls between the 2 rooms, but the best thing that I could use it for, I guess that would be to connect the Mac Mini to a HDMI splitter, one HDMI for each room (one to the receiver hooked to the TV and 5.1 Bose, and the other one to the receiver hooked up with the projector and a new 5.1).
When I want to play Xbox360, or PS3I will have to move them from one receiver to the other.

Any sugestions?
post #6805 of 8445
Hey Folks,


Thanks for all the info from customers on here great place!

My W1070 arrived this morning and in about 4 hours I'll be re alligning my mount (as I have replaced an Acer 5360BD)

So I'll post back with another user review and any changes i.e. what firmware I received etc.



I also commented in the Benq 144Hz compatible thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1448720/benq-w1070-144hz-compatible-dlp-link-3d-glasses/660#post_23949304

Regarding new HiShock 3D glasses (Lime Heaven up to 200Hz?) due for arrivel via i-parcel from Germany which I will review aswell and post my experience with specific details on setup to help any other potential customers make a decision.



See ye soon!
Nick.
post #6806 of 8445
Quote:
Originally Posted by rwestley View Post

I am reposting these instructions from the previous 105 update. You can get the DLP composer tool and the service manual from these links. Be sure to use the new link for the 106 firmware.

I and others have updated the firmware via USB. Use these instructions and links below;
(repost)
A few people asked for firmware update instructions.
I suggest that you do this only if you have an early version of the firmware and are having issues that need to be fixed. One must also realize that if you mess up the firmware update your warranty could be void

Firmware available below:

https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B_xTFybwtlbvU1oxdHRNcWd3LTQ/edit?pli=1&docId=0B_xTFybwtlbvTHFqclRLU3pBNlk.

https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B_xTFybwtlbvU1oxdHRNcWd3LTQ/edit

106 Firmware download link:


http://www28.zippyshare.com/v/62963810/file.html

103 for W1080 Link

http://www18.zippyshare.com/v/35040164/file.html

If one wants to do the update I suggest doing it using a standard to min B cable. using USB. This update cannon be installed from a thumb drive. The full instructions are in the service manual from the link above.


1. Write down all your settings before starting an update. (If you do not you will loose all your settings)
2. I suggest that you create a new folder on your desktop called 1070 firmware in the new folder.
3. Download the download tool and unzip it to the new folder.
4. Download the new separate 106 img file to the same folder from the link above.
5. .Install the download tool. It is called DLP composer. Also download the Flash Device Parameters file.
5A Copy the Flash Device Parameters. txt file to the DLP composer program file (It is under programs x86 DLP Composer on your C drive.) Use Copy and paste. The folder you want to paste this file to will be on the c drive after you install DLP composer.
6. Open the DLP Composer tool and go to edit, preferences.
7. When the window opens go to communication and set it to USB
8. Close this window and click on flash loader on the opening screen. A window will open.
8. Change the mark to Complete Image Download Put check in Skip Boot loader area Change 32Kb
9. On the top of the flash loader hit the browse button and go to your folder 106 img file.
10. Insert the USB cable in the min plug on the projector and into your computer. (Wait for the drivers to load. This should take a minute with windows 7 or 8
11. Unplug the projector and push the power and auto buttons at the same time. Plug in the projector while holding the buttons. The LED on the projector will turn red if you are in download mode (It must turn red to install the firmware. If it turns orange do this again until you only get the red led) This is very important.
12 Hit the Reset Bus and Start Download. The upgrade process should take about 5 minutes. A timer will start telling you how long it will take.
13. Do not unplug anything during the process. When everything completes the LED on the projector will turn to standby orange.
14. Unplug the USB cable and turn the projector on
15 You will have to put all your settings back in and turn source select to auto
16. Instructions are also available in the service manual PDF you downloaded to your folder.
17. Only do this upgrade at your own risk and if you are familiar with doing firmware updates..
18. You do not need the service tool to do the firmware update the firmware and write down your settings.
Edited by rwestley - 3/25/13 at 1:18am

If the links do not work P.M. me. I have the firmware and 106 firmware saved.

I'm ready to update firmware from 1.05 to 1.07. I just want to confirm a few things:

1. The instructions above are still accurate
2. I can upgrade directly from 1.05 to 1.07. No need to go to 1.06
3. Does anyone have the link to the 1.07 firmware? I saw someone post it awhile ago but he said it would only be there for a week.

Thanks!
post #6807 of 8445
Quote:
Originally Posted by XStanleyX View Post


PM me your e-mail address and I can send the 1.07 firmware to you in a zip file. I went from 1.05 to 1.07 using those instruction. Follow them very carefully.

IMPORTANT NOTE: be careful with step #8: Put check in Skip Boot loader area Change 32Kb

If you don't change:
[x] skip boot loader area : 16kb

to

[x] skip boot loader area : 32kb

It will make your projector inoperable.
post #6808 of 8445
Quote:
Originally Posted by CheYC View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommy Mang View Post

I'm still in the process of going through all the posts in this thread (I'm at page 149). This post from kreeturez I think is one of the most useful posts I've seen so far. Thought it would be interesting to share it again. Thanks kreeturez!

A great post, but you should keep in mind that most of the 3D issues he was having is rectified in the 1.06 firmware update (i.e. many more 3D formats supported).

Glad to have been of assistance :-)

And yes, I can confirm that with all the new 3D formats introduced in Firmware 1.06, I'm much, much happier with the 3D performance of this awesome little projector: all my rips play pretty much flawlessly now.

My opinion on contrast ratio in 3D being a bit 'dulled' still stands (perhaps due to the nature of DLP-Link), and I definitely still get more RBE in 3D (even at triple-flashed 24hz) than I do at 50hz in 2D. Actually I get practically no RBE @ 50hz in 2D :-)

That said, I still do enjoy watching 3D content on this device: the impact of such a large screen is incomparable to anything else (barring an actual 3D theatre!)

As a side-note (I mentioned it earlier), I've always had the 'rattle' from the fan: since the 1st hour. Not loud or particularly distracting; but it's there. Hasn't progressed or gotten worse so I don't notice it anymore. I don't find the projector noisy in Smart-Eco mode; even with 'High Altitude' on.

I'm now at over 900 hours on the lamp and still consider this the best AV purchase I've ever made.
post #6809 of 8445
Long time lurker but feel bad asking question without contributing much. But I have learned so much here and felt I have made informed decision for my AV choices.
I recently got BENQ refurbished from the manufacturer directly for good price of $677. I cannot be happy with the performance out of the box. Compared it with friends Epson 3020 and 5020 in dedicated HT and high-end screen, we were baffled how well Benq can meet or exceed Epson with variety of material including Blu-Ray, Netflix etc.

The projector came with damaged vertical shift screw head so I cannot really operate to perform the shift. I did not felt the need of it as for now I am placing it on chair and projecting on builder grade beige color wall. But I wonder how important the shift is, considering it does not offer much adjustment when eventually I am going to mount it in my basement . I hate to RMA it as I am happy with this particular piece with just 28 hours on it (can I rely on the hours count ? or it can be reset ).

The other question is, should I really need to go from firmware 1.05 to 1.07 if I don't really feel need of it now. The argument is to try it to upgrade while I have return eligibility.

Thanks to a post few pages back, I was able to buy chief mount from ebay for around $50 and that should be enough for mounting as I have quite placement flexibility in the basement.

I am planning to build screen 130" with 16:9 aspect ration, with throw distance of 12 ft in controlled ambient light in the basement. I went through few threads under screen forum and seems like Carls Flexiwhite or spandex from spandex world are popular choice. But I cannot figure out pros and cons of each other. Moreover do I need to color the screen if I have controlled ambient light and most usage will be during night time.

Also want to confirm as if I read it correctly, setting the zoom to max (so that the image is biggest possible) provides even sharpness.

Thanks again and appreciate members spending time and guiding members particularly non- regulars like me.
Edited by practicalposts - 11/20/13 at 9:41pm
post #6810 of 8445
Hey Folks,

the W1070 arrived yesterday and I checked it out briefly last night.

Initial thoughts & firmware :
Compared to Acer H5360BD is the black is really black! however Ill test some more this evening to ascertain if these black are crushed and shadow details being lost, however I can tweak the gamma for personal preference and will check out the calibration post on here too!

WIth regards to Firmware the box's seal was cut with a blade and the Firmware on the unit is v1.06 (unit was ordered from Amazson.co.uk 1 week ago) it was resealed with Benq tape. I assume an interruption to the manufacture line or quality control was carried out to upgrade units before shipping?

Love the unit focus is pretty damn sharp albeit my install is not to the millimetre in terms of centre but even at that 14 foot throw its producing about 123" image albeit im loosing 1 or 1.25 inch either side.

Glasses might be here tomorrow but should be Monday will post up further findings.
Nick
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