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BenQ W1070 : DLP Full HD, 3D Ready with lens-shift for 1000$ - Page 248

post #7411 of 8481
Quote:
Originally Posted by niccolo View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by chaka2 View Post

No, it is definitely not the projector. Here is a trusted review at http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/projectors/projectors-reviews/benq-w1070-projector/all-pages.html that stated:

"When using the HDMI input, color and tint controls are disabled, so unless you have calibration equipment, all that you will be configuring on the BenQ are the brightness, contrast, and sharpness controls. Setting those is much easier when Whiter-than-White and Blacker-than-Black are visible, but those are clipped by default. They can be made visible by setting the HDMI Mode to PC from Auto, which I would recommend doing.

I'd also recommend sending all your content in the YCbCr 4:4:4 colorspace. Using 4:2:2, the BenQ used lower quality filtering on chroma detail, and the timing was misaligned by half a pixel. Using RGB produced similar results, but 4:4:4 was handled properly and should be used if possible."

I saw a couple of other reviews remarking about the clipping but I am sure they were not aware to change the settings. I am using an Oppo player and there is no clipping. Switching between PC and Video settings and comparing the image is meaningless without calibrating, the Brightness and Contrast settings will need to be set at different values to produce a similar appearance for the different modes. I don't understand why you said you are "pretty sure" that you were still getting clipping, if you are using a calibration disc, clipping levels above 235 will be obvious because you will not see the bars from 235 to 255 no matter how much you adjust Contrast.

Is your projector connected directly to the player? An AV receiver can also limit the range of signals passed through it.

I am feeding the projector directly from a Panasonic DMP-BDT210 Bluray player. I checked tonight, inputting PC Signal still clips, in order to not clip I have to output RGB also. Others on this forum suggest the same is true with Oppo players, and also that the Panny doesn't clip with other projectors.

I just switched to YCbCr 4:4:4 output from my PC and I noticed an immediate improvement, it looks sharper now maybe? Not sure why, but it's definitely better for real.

Thanks (I'm always surprised by the things I learn here, even after over a year of owning this PJ, it still impresses me).
post #7412 of 8481
Quote:
Originally Posted by niccolo View Post

If you're getting non-clipped BTB and WTW in video mode with our projector, as best I can tell you're unique. The videophile reviews of this projector suggest consistent clipping in that mode, and that's certainly my experience. I have a good Panasonic Bluray player that is not known to clip with other projectors, and I know others on this forum with Oppo Bluray players (which must surely qualify as good) have the same clipping experience I do. And yes, the clipping occurs in eco mode with contrast and brightness anywhere in the range (though you've certainly got your contrast set lower than I do or than I've seen anyone else recommend).

Hi there.
Im pretty sure these test images are proof that I can get BTB and WTW with the projector in YCbCr and video mode.

If I turn up the brightness the BTB bar at the extreme left and extreme right become visible.


As you can see here I have white information visible above 235 (the three black dots top left and bottom right. I also have BTB past the 3 white dots bottom left and top right.
I will admit the BTB is very hard to see and is slightly crushed and the whites don't go far above WTW either in video mode.



If I use the WOW checkerboard test pattern with projector in HDMI video mode I cant see the full range, but I can still see slightly above white and below black. (from memory about +4% WTW and -2% BTB)
If I switch to PC mode I can obviously see everything above white and below black but I didn't like the look of it even when calibrated.
The Intel video driver on the PC also has a HDMI full or HDMI limited mode and I am using HDMI full with YCbCr. Don't know if that makes any difference or not but Im certainly very happy with my calibration as is.
I'll have another look at a couple test images tonight after work and confirm just incase I've made some kind of error! Which is possible after several sessions of several hours doing calibration and playing reference videos.

My understanding is that using 0-255 pc mode and calibrating for 16-235 means you are introducing interpolation errors as you are stretching the source material range from its mastered 16-235 range to 0-255. Better to just stick with the source materials original luminance range in my opinion.
Edited by Phatboy69 - 1/20/14 at 9:35pm
post #7413 of 8481
Quote:
Originally Posted by vjicecool View Post

I never got the idea of projecting it on the black screen. Is this better than the white background

The black is just on the back of the frame. The front is matt white spandex. The black on the back stops stray light bouncing around behind off the walls and back onto the screen. The black backing also slightly improves black levels similar to using a grey screen.
The natural gain of spandex was measured somewhere between .7 and .9 from the research I did. That depends on the brand of spandex and how tightly you stretch it. Mine is stretched only slightly more than required to remove wrinkles.
You can use this material quite effectively for rear projection as it only loses 10-15% brightness through the fabric, which is why you need the black backing to capture the stray light. Note the black is just over an inch (3.5cm) behind the white because its stretched over the back of the frame, not under the white. I think having the gap between the fabrics also helps maximise the balance between screen gain (reflectance) and absorption. If the black was hard up against the white it would make it a noticeably darker screen and I believe that some light from the black would reflect back through. The spandex has a kind of luminance about it that I think is a bit of a unique property as far as projections screens go. It reminds me of the effect of rear projection screens on old CRT rear projection TVs. The image looks very plasma like with a depth and slight gloss look that you don't get from many projection surfaces.

Just remembered a website I did some research on that talks about the diffuse effect of rear projection screens and that's the effect that Spandex gives.
http://www.dnp-screens.com/DNP08/Technology/Basic-Visual/Screens/Diffusion-rear-projection.aspx
Edited by Phatboy69 - 1/20/14 at 9:07pm
post #7414 of 8481

Hello everyone

 

I'm a new owner of this Benq w1070, bought it like 2 weeks ago. Got version with 1.07 firmware, backlit remote etc. Had no problems at all to install it and center to the screen, after few films I must admign I'm really pleased with the image quality. I can slightly see some RBE effect (specially on subtitles while I move my eyes from one side to the other) but it doesnt distract me at all. Fan noise is also no problem, since I have dedicated HT room where films are beign watched on "right" volume ;)

But there are always some buts. Im not so 100% happy with black levels on this PJ. When there is a scene with light and dark objects, everything looks fine because of contrast. But when I watch some really dark scenes, I see this projector lacking in blacks quality. Or when I watch some films in cinema aspect ratio, then those supposed to be black bars on top or bottom look just dark grey. Is there any way to improve it ? This is my first projector so I cannot compare it to any other, not sure then if blacks I get on it are typical for this class of PJ, or am I doing something wrong.

 

I have it set up in 100% light controlled room, with everything painted black (walls, ceiling, black carpet etc), so light bounce should be minimal.

Settings are:

brightness 51, contrast 53, lamp in eco mode, brilliant colour off, gamma 2.4.

Throw distance is 2,8m, im projecting on a wall (90" painted in white, rest is black). Would a projecting screen improve blacks ? I decided to try it out on wall first to see how does it look like, and then decide either to go for a screen or to stay like that. If screen wount improve blacks, then I see no reason for switching to screen since Im happy with the image I get (or maybe should I switch anyway for other reasons ?)

Would ND filter help here ? In theory it should by dimming the image, but I've never tested it so Im not sure what are the advantages and disadvantages.

 

Is there any othey way to improve it ? Im not expecting pure blacks for sure, I know its not possible to get it for that price. But still, if there is some way to tweak it, I'd love to hear it

post #7415 of 8481
Quote:
Originally Posted by niccolo View Post

If you're getting non-clipped BTB and WTW in video mode with our projector, as best I can tell you're unique. The videophile reviews of this projector suggest consistent clipping in that mode, and that's certainly my experience. I have a good Panasonic Bluray player that is not known to clip with other projectors, and I know others on this forum with Oppo Bluray players (which must surely qualify as good) have the same clipping experience I do. And yes, the clipping occurs in eco mode with contrast and brightness anywhere in the range (though you've certainly got your contrast set lower than I do or than I've seen anyone else recommend).

I just rechecked with WOW checkerboard test patterns and I definitely get BTB and WTW with HDMI set to video mode with YCbCr.
I can in fact see way up above white in the contrast test and have to turn contrast all the way up to 65 before white clips down to white +0 on the checkerboard.
With brightness checkerboard I can see way below black until I turn brightness down to 47 where black +0 is just invisible.
When checking gamma with these settings though, gamma 2.2 actually measures as 1.9 and the closest I can get to ideal gamma is 2.1 with the projector set at 2.8.

Setting Gamma to 2.8 (2.1 measured) with these settings and using brightness and contrast checkerboards again the projector still gets down to +0 black and up to +0 white as individual tests, but the combined superwhite and superblack checkerboard I loose all black upto about +5% but contrast still hangs on to +0.
Going back and forth between Gamma, brightness and contrast I was able to get a retina burning picture.. I mean its seriously bright switching between dark and bright scenes measured at 26+ FC before the smarteco mode brings it back down to a slightly less painful 22fc!
The picture looks ok and really really POPS from the screen but it looks too much like video and not enough like film and some scenes you can clearly see the contrast is set way too high because the image gets a really hard edge and looks oversaturated.

The bottom line.. I prefer a measured gamma @ 2.2 with projector set at 2.2 and brightness at 48 with contrast at 38. (all measurements were in cinema mode and normal colour temp and brilliant colour on) This setting gives a really nice tonal balance with a really smooth film look and still has good screen pop.
Looking at my preferred settings with the WOW checkerboard brightness and contrast tests I can see all the way up to +7% for white and down to +0% for black on the individual tests and in the combined superwhite/superblack test I see upto +7% white and down to +2% black.
My settings are also a much more comfortable measured 17fc.
Edited by Phatboy69 - 1/21/14 at 4:42am
post #7416 of 8481
Quote:
Originally Posted by wiater View Post

Hello everyone

I'm a new owner of this Benq w1070, bought it like 2 weeks ago. Got version with 1.07 firmware, backlit remote etc. Had no problems at all to install it and center to the screen, after few films I must admign I'm really pleased with the image quality. I can slightly see some RBE effect (specially on subtitles while I move my eyes from one side to the other) but it doesnt distract me at all. Fan noise is also no problem, since I have dedicated HT room where films are beign watched on "right" volume wink.gif
But there are always some buts. Im not so 100% happy with black levels on this PJ. When there is a scene with light and dark objects, everything looks fine because of contrast. But when I watch some really dark scenes, I see this projector lacking in blacks quality. Or when I watch some films in cinema aspect ratio, then those supposed to be black bars on top or bottom look just dark grey. Is there any way to improve it ? This is my first projector so I cannot compare it to any other, not sure then if blacks I get on it are typical for this class of PJ, or am I doing something wrong.

I have it set up in 100% light controlled room, with everything painted black (walls, ceiling, black carpet etc), so light bounce should be minimal.
Settings are:
brightness 51, contrast 53, lamp in eco mode, brilliant colour off, gamma 2.4.
Throw distance is 2,8m, im projecting on a wall (90" painted in white, rest is black). Would a projecting screen improve blacks ? I decided to try it out on wall first to see how does it look like, and then decide either to go for a screen or to stay like that. If screen wount improve blacks, then I see no reason for switching to screen since Im happy with the image I get (or maybe should I switch anyway for other reasons ?)
Would ND filter help here ? In theory it should by dimming the image, but I've never tested it so Im not sure what are the advantages and disadvantages.

Is there any othey way to improve it ? Im not expecting pure blacks for sure, I know its not possible to get it for that price. But still, if there is some way to tweak it, I'd love to hear it

Hi there I can see you have your contrast pushed up a bit high and the projector set at gamma 2.4 which is probably only giving you a gamma around 2 which is why your lacking black in dark scenes. Gamma 2 has pushed the black floor too high. You need to get some test discs and set contrast and brightness based on your screen and throw distance and check your gamma and get it as close to 2.2 as possible. Also make sure you running in smarteco or economy mode for 2d content.
post #7417 of 8481
Quote:
Originally Posted by wiater View Post
 

Hello everyone

 

I'm a new owner of this Benq w1070, bought it like 2 weeks ago. Got version with 1.07 firmware, backlit remote etc. Had no problems at all to install it and center to the screen, after few films I must admign I'm really pleased with the image quality. I can slightly see some RBE effect (specially on subtitles while I move my eyes from one side to the other) but it doesnt distract me at all. Fan noise is also no problem, since I have dedicated HT room where films are beign watched on "right" volume ;)

But there are always some buts. Im not so 100% happy with black levels on this PJ. When there is a scene with light and dark objects, everything looks fine because of contrast. But when I watch some really dark scenes, I see this projector lacking in blacks quality. Or when I watch some films in cinema aspect ratio, then those supposed to be black bars on top or bottom look just dark grey. Is there any way to improve it ? This is my first projector so I cannot compare it to any other, not sure then if blacks I get on it are typical for this class of PJ, or am I doing something wrong.

 

I have it set up in 100% light controlled room, with everything painted black (walls, ceiling, black carpet etc), so light bounce should be minimal.

Settings are:

brightness 51, contrast 53, lamp in eco mode, brilliant colour off, gamma 2.4.

Throw distance is 2,8m, im projecting on a wall (90" painted in white, rest is black). Would a projecting screen improve blacks ? I decided to try it out on wall first to see how does it look like, and then decide either to go for a screen or to stay like that. If screen wount improve blacks, then I see no reason for switching to screen since Im happy with the image I get (or maybe should I switch anyway for other reasons ?)

Would ND filter help here ? In theory it should by dimming the image, but I've never tested it so Im not sure what are the advantages and disadvantages.

 

Is there any othey way to improve it ? Im not expecting pure blacks for sure, I know its not possible to get it for that price. But still, if there is some way to tweak it, I'd love to hear it

 

One of the biggest improvements I made when I had this PJ was to make some simple masks to use when watching 'Scope format movies. I used plywood cut to size at the store and some sticky-backed velvet. Cost is negligible. You will need to make some simple sort of bracket to attach them when watching a scope movie. I found that physically removing the black bars in this way vastly improves the perceived contrast as you do not have a 'constant reminder' above and below the image of the mediocre blacks that the PJ can manage. In all but the darkest of dark scenes this made a huge subjective difference. It takes just a few seconds to take the masks down when watching a full 16:9 presentation.

post #7418 of 8481
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phatboy69 View Post


Hi there I can see you have your contrast pushed up a bit high and the projector set at gamma 2.4 which is probably only giving you a gamma around 2 which is why your lacking black in dark scenes. Gamma 2 has pushed the black floor too high. You need to get some test discs and set contrast and brightness based on your screen and throw distance and check your gamma and get it as close to 2.2 as possible. Also make sure you running in smarteco or economy mode for 2d content.

 

Thx for tip. Didnt put my hands on any calibration disc yet so I just used those settings: http://www.avforums.com/threads/benq-w1070-reviewer%C2%92s-recommended-best-settings.1761516/

in hope that everything will go smooth.

I tried to play with contrast and gamma, but decreasing contrast will make the whole image to grey out. My lamp is in eco mode, I see almost no difference between eco and smart eco (smart eco pumps brighter parts of the image a bit, but doesnt change anything in blacks for me).

 

Im looking now on images you posted earlier, and this one shows exactly this top/bottom black bar effect I was talking about:

 

 

Originally Posted by Phatboy69 View Post


Oblivion shots

 

 

So difference between blacks on screen and black wall is clearly visible.

And I'd love to get results like this:

 

 


 

 

or this:


 

 

 

Is the difference between your first image and rest just from different camera exposure, or did you took it with different PJ settings ?

post #7419 of 8481

Quote:

Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post
 

 

One of the biggest improvements I made when I had this PJ was to make some simple masks to use when watching 'Scope format movies. I used plywood cut to size at the store and some sticky-backed velvet. Cost is negligible. You will need to make some simple sort of bracket to attach them when watching a scope movie. I found that physically removing the black bars in this way vastly improves the perceived contrast as you do not have a 'constant reminder' above and below the image of the mediocre blacks that the PJ can manage. In all but the darkest of dark scenes this made a huge subjective difference. It takes just a few seconds to take the masks down when watching a full 16:9 presentation.

 

Thanks, this is really good idea. Yes the problem is mainly with those bars. I've watched a film this weekend in true 16:9 and image was way better than on other films with bars. I might only have a small problem with storing those masks somewhere as my screen is almost as wide as my wall ;)

post #7420 of 8481
Quote:
Originally Posted by wiater View Post

So difference between blacks on screen and black wall is clearly visible.
And I'd love to get results like this:

Quote:



 
Quote:
or this:




 


Is the difference between your first image and rest just from different camera exposure, or did you took it with different PJ settings ?

The first shot was over exposed which is why its easier to see the black bars and the others are set for 1 stop lower which matches much more accurately the actual picture Im seeing. Camera's are known to over expose these kind of shots by about 1 stop.
post #7421 of 8481
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phatboy69 View Post


The first shot was over exposed which is why its easier to see the black bars and the others are set for 1 stop lower which matches much more accurately the actual picture Im seeing. Camera's are known to over expose these kind of shots by about 1 stop.


WOW. Could you share your settings ? Because what I see on my PJ is close to this first over exposed photo....

post #7422 of 8481
When I do my dedicated room I will be making removable masking as a must. I thought about using ridged foam wrapped in black so it's lightweight and easy to hang.

If you build a frame around your screen it will allow the masking to fit snug inside the frame or atleast that's how I'm going to try.
post #7423 of 8481
Quote:
Originally Posted by wiater View Post
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post
 

 

One of the biggest improvements I made when I had this PJ was to make some simple masks to use when watching 'Scope format movies. I used plywood cut to size at the store and some sticky-backed velvet. Cost is negligible. You will need to make some simple sort of bracket to attach them when watching a scope movie. I found that physically removing the black bars in this way vastly improves the perceived contrast as you do not have a 'constant reminder' above and below the image of the mediocre blacks that the PJ can manage. In all but the darkest of dark scenes this made a huge subjective difference. It takes just a few seconds to take the masks down when watching a full 16:9 presentation.

 

Thanks, this is really good idea. Yes the problem is mainly with those bars. I've watched a film this weekend in true 16:9 and image was way better than on other films with bars. I might only have a small problem with storing those masks somewhere as my screen is almost as wide as my wall ;)

 

Mostly (for movies) they will be installed anyway - about 70-75% of movies are 'Scope format. I just lay mine in the floor underneath the screen when they are not needed.

post #7424 of 8481
I live in Salt Lake City, Utah 4,327 feet and currently use high altitude mode for my W1070. It sounds like a jet is landing in my theater room! Anyone have ideas to reduce noise or if I run this in normal mode will it damage my pj?

I had it overheat and shutoff the first day I used it because It doesn't default to high altitude mode. I changed it and have been unhappy ever since!
post #7425 of 8481
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phatboy69 View Post

I just rechecked with WOW checkerboard test patterns and I definitely get BTB and WTW with HDMI set to video mode with YCbCr.
I can in fact see way up above white in the contrast test and have to turn contrast all the way up to 65 before white clips down to white +0 on the checkerboard.
With brightness checkerboard I can see way below black until I turn brightness down to 47 where black +0 is just invisible.
When checking gamma with these settings though, gamma 2.2 actually measures as 1.9 and the closest I can get to ideal gamma is 2.1 with the projector set at 2.8.

Setting Gamma to 2.8 (2.1 measured) with these settings and using brightness and contrast checkerboards again the projector still gets down to +0 black and up to +0 white as individual tests, but the combined superwhite and superblack checkerboard I loose all black upto about +5% but contrast still hangs on to +0.
Going back and forth between Gamma, brightness and contrast I was able to get a retina burning picture.. I mean its seriously bright switching between dark and bright scenes measured at 26+ FC before the smarteco mode brings it back down to a slightly less painful 22fc!
The picture looks ok and really really POPS from the screen but it looks too much like video and not enough like film and some scenes you can clearly see the contrast is set way too high because the image gets a really hard edge and looks oversaturated.

The bottom line.. I prefer a measured gamma @ 2.2 with projector set at 2.2 and brightness at 48 with contrast at 38. (all measurements were in cinema mode and normal colour temp and brilliant colour on) This setting gives a really nice tonal balance with a really smooth film look and still has good screen pop.
Looking at my preferred settings with the WOW checkerboard brightness and contrast tests I can see all the way up to +7% for white and down to +0% for black on the individual tests and in the combined superwhite/superblack test I see upto +7% white and down to +2% black.
My settings are also a much more comfortable measured 17fc.

Interesting, so somehow you're getting our projector not to clip. The only explanations I can come up with are that you're using a different Bluray player that's somehow causing this (both Panasonic and Oppo players seem to still cause it to clip, what are you using?), that a newer projector firmware fixed it (I have 1.06), though both seem unlikely, or that you have a combination of settings that somehow causes the projector not to clip. Wish I could replicate this somehow!
post #7426 of 8481
Quote:
I live in Salt Lake City, Utah 4,327 feet and currently use high altitude mode for my W1070. It sounds like a jet is landing in my theater room! Anyone have ideas to reduce noise or if I run this in normal mode will it damage my pj?

I had it overheat and shutoff the first day I used it because It doesn't default to high altitude mode. I changed it and have been unhappy ever since!

I live in South Jordan and I don't use high altitude mode. I used it at first, but I did notice louder fan noise. I talked to someone who lives in SLC and has over 4,000 hours on their W1070 without using high altitude mode. I have 1200 hours with no problems.
post #7427 of 8481
Quote:
Originally Posted by sojodave View Post

I live in South Jordan and I don't use high altitude mode. I used it at first, but I did notice louder fan noise. I talked to someone who lives in SLC and has over 4,000 hours on their W1070 without using high altitude mode. I have 1200 hours with no problems.

You ever have it shutoff due to heat??

Mine shutoff and every button turned red
post #7428 of 8481
I have never had it shut off due to heat. My projector is usually on all day on weekends and never had it over heat.

What firmware version are you running. Make sure you are on 1.08

How long have you had your unit? I would return it if it was a recent purchase.
post #7429 of 8481
I have had it for two weeks. I think it is running 1.07 firmware. I just bought it from amazon.

Is there an easy way to upgrade the firmware to 1.08?

Thanks
post #7430 of 8481
If you do a search on this thread, there is a detailed instructions on how to upgrade the firmware. Follow the instructions closely and you should be all right.
post #7431 of 8481
Thanks Bro. I will mess with it this weekend. I turned the high altitude mode off last night when we watched Ethan Hawke in The Getaway & Jackass Bad Grandpa.
post #7432 of 8481
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jester435 View Post

Thanks Bro. I will mess with it this weekend. I turned the high altitude mode off last night when we watched Ethan Hawke in The Getaway & Jackass Bad Grandpa.

Unless you're confident you know what you're doing, don't mess with the firmware, you can brick your projector. And I don't think we even know yet what the advantages of 1.08 vs 1.07 are.
post #7433 of 8481
Why is the firmware such a big deal on projectors or is it just BenQ. I dont see the point of making it hard to upgrade or keeping it under lock and key. Seems counter productive to the consumer. I am to the point where I can send it back to amazon and have another one sent. This runs their costs up.

very interesting dynamic they have created with poor design on the software side.
post #7434 of 8481
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jester435 View Post

Why is the firmware such a big deal on projectors or is it just BenQ. I dont see the point of making it hard to upgrade or keeping it under lock and key. Seems counter productive to the consumer. I am to the point where I can send it back to amazon and have another one sent. This runs their costs up.

very interesting dynamic they have created with poor design on the software side.

Totally disagree, The great thing is that Benq does update the firmware when issues are reported. Most TV manufactures ignore small issues that pop up or fix the problem in newer models. I do agree that there could be an easier way to upgrade the firmware from the net. It is also not just Benq. JVC projectors which can cost as much as 10 times the price just had a firmware update to fix a handshake problem.
post #7435 of 8481
Quote:
Originally Posted by rwestley View Post

Totally disagree, The great thing is that Benq does update the firmware when issues are reported. Most TV manufactures ignore small issues that pop up or fix the problem in newer models. I do agree that there could be an easier way to upgrade the firmware from the net. It is also not just Benq. JVC projectors which can cost as much as 10 times the price just had a firmware update to fix a handshake problem.

anything tech that can brick because of a basic firmware update is a bad design.

I should be able to download from their website put on usb thumb-drive plug and play.
post #7436 of 8481
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jester435 View Post

anything tech that can brick because of a basic firmware update is a bad design.

I should be able to download from their website put on usb thumb-drive plug and play.

I agree, but Benq does not want the end user to do the firmware updates themselves. These updates have all be leaked thanks to other members.
Oppo and some other Blu-Ray manufactures do have usb thumb-drive updates along with doing it from the network.
I am happy to have gotten the leaked updates since it has really improved my projector. If one follows the instructions the chances of bricking the projector are actually small.
However, One does have to have basic computer knowledge to do the update.
post #7437 of 8481
Quote:
Originally Posted by rwestley View Post

I agree, but Benq does not want the end user to do the firmware updates themselves. These updates have all be leaked thanks to other members.
Oppo and some other Blu-Ray manufactures do have usb thumb-drive updates along with doing it from the network.
I am happy to have gotten the leaked updates since it has really improved my projector. If one follows the instructions the chances of bricking the projector are actually small.
However, One does have to have basic computer knowledge to do the update.

I will take your word for it. I have updated bios on motherboards, so I am not very worried.

If I knew 1.08 would solve my overheating problems then I would jump all over it, but since there aren't release notes and detailed help it isnt worth it. Also, I dont want to void my warranty and be out $800 bucks.

I am going to keep high altitude mode off for the next few days and see if it happens again. If it does then I will send it back to amazon and get a replacement. It puzzles me that updating the firmware should be something the end users are able to do themselves. Especially if it can really improve the projector like you stated. BenQ must have a software issue that causes this to not be a super simple process.

Thanks for your input. I guess I am just used to more user friendly tech.
post #7438 of 8481
I just received my Peerless PRG-UNV from Amazon. I have a question about it. I did not expect the mount to be this heavy. The question is I took apart the universal spider pieces so I just have the small mounting plate. Can I make a small custom mounting plate for the bottom of the Benq so it eliminates the universal spider thing? There is also a small vent or something on the bottom, should I cut out an area if I make a plate or leave it?





post #7439 of 8481
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluer101 View Post

I just received my Peerless PRG-UNV from Amazon. I have a question about it. I did not expect the mount to be this heavy. The question is I took apart the universal spider pieces so I just have the small mounting plate. Can I make a small custom mounting plate for the bottom of the Benq so it eliminates the universal spider thing? There is also a small vent or something on the bottom, should I cut out an area if I make a plate or leave it?






You can make a custom plate for the Peerless, but if you are ceiling-mounting it (as opposed to pipe mounting), you will lose the ability to adjust yaw via the universal mount.

You should definitely leave space for the vent, either by cutting out an area or by spacing your custom mounting plate with spacers or creating feet as part of your mount. Assuming the body of the projector gets warm and needs to radiate heat, you're probably better served spacing your custom plate than mounting it snugly and cutting out an area.

If you're going to make a custom plate, the crucial thing is to balance the projector as perfectly as possible, that will make it easy to adjust and less likely to change its position over time.
post #7440 of 8481
Quote:
Originally Posted by niccolo View Post

You can make a custom plate for the Peerless, but if you are ceiling-mounting it (as opposed to pipe mounting), you will lose the ability to adjust yaw via the universal mount.

You should definitely leave space for the vent, either by cutting out an area or by spacing your custom mounting plate with spacers or creating feet as part of your mount. Assuming the body of the projector gets warm and needs to radiate heat, you're probably better served spacing your custom plate than mounting it snugly and cutting out an area.

If you're going to make a custom plate, the crucial thing is to balance the projector as perfectly as possible, that will make it easy to adjust and less likely to change its position over time.

Thanks, the way I need to mount it is kind off weird. So I will keep in mind to be able to turn the mount also. Plus I'm going to put a left and right adjustment in there too. The Peerless is aluminum for the gear mechanism and small plate pictured. But the circle plate and arms are steel and heavy. So I think I'm going to make a plate out of thin oak or aluminum. I will put small nylon spacers between the 1070 and the plate. Also cut out that vent or whatever it is.
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