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First DIY project for a guy looking to upgrade - multiple sealed 18s? - Page 14

post #391 of 1005
nah, I kinda like the idea of 4 D.O. boxes with the Daytons. That just sounds fun smile.gif
post #392 of 1005
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

General note - I did a 'mockup' of the grills on the boxes and they look kind of odd to me. I'm not sure how I feel about keeping the grills, I'm still up in the air as of now. I did drill the pilot holes for the magnets, but not sure if I will wind up using them. Chances are they will look a little bit better once painted black and covered with cloth though. Hmm.
Is that because you rounded the edges?

Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

Oh I know! haha. I was referring to the link you still have in the OP, I guess all that had to do with was the uxl idea before you went this direction. regardless, what were the final box dimensions? I asked a few posts up but I guess you missed it smile.gif
Post #304. Same post with his cut sheet.
post #393 of 1005
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

Is that because you rounded the edges?

I do like the rounded edges, just not sure about having a grill overall. I guess I'll see how it looks with it covered up with the fabric. Worst case I can leave them off. smile.gif
post #394 of 1005
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

damn ricci...awesome work! from a hundred lurkers who will never post...THANK YOU!
:-)
Um Thank you!!smile.giftongue.gif
post #395 of 1005
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

I've thought about it from this angle as well. I'm thinking big picture though.
I think everyone here has seen my grandiose ambition for my ultimate bass solution:
Subwall.jpg
That would be 32 LMS-U's requiring 16 Clones.
I could modify this design to add 12" more depth to accomodate an opposed configuration, double the # of drivers to 64 and half the # of amps to 8 and still maintain the same level of performance of 32 LMS-U's.
Plus, my materials list and overall electrical needs just pretty much cut in 1/2 as well.
Just me thinking out loud...

And I'd like to see the power bill of the additional 200A+ service needed biggrin.gif

Part of the reason I went with the DTS-10's is semi power efficient to output ratio compared to running multiple sealed arrays. Just buy a few eek.gif TH221s eek.gif and a scuba pressure chamber so you can safely exit your theater room after cool.gif
post #396 of 1005
Thanks for the link from the other forum Andrew! Great work, I'm following now biggrin.gif

Scott
post #397 of 1005
How many of these Dayton HO18's, in a sealed configuration, powered with 650watts, would it take to match or best a single Seaton Subm or JTR Cat, in a typical 14 x 20 room?
I am ordering 2 of these Dayton HO18's on Monday or next week, (budget only allows for 2 at the moment, but, I will add more next month!), and can't wait to get my build started. I will be running them in sealed cabinets, single driver per cab. How do you guys think a Behringer EP4000 would work to power these? Should I use one sub on each channel? I purchased a used EP4000 from a forum member, and plan on using it to power the sealed Dayton HO18's that I plan on building very soon. I will likely be adding two more Dayton HO18's either in late december or early Janurary. I will then try and find another EP4000 for that pair.
post #398 of 1005
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post

How many of these Dayton HO18's, in a sealed configuration, powered with 650watts, would it take to match or best a single Seaton Subm or JTR Cat, in a typical 14 x 20 room?
I am ordering 2 of these Dayton HO18's on Monday or next week, (budget only allows for 2 at the moment, but, I will add more next month!), and can't wait to get my build started. I will be running them in sealed cabinets, single driver per cab. How do you guys think a Behringer EP4000 would work to power these? Should I use one sub on each channel? I purchased a used EP4000 from a forum member, and plan on using it to power the sealed Dayton HO18's that I plan on building very soon. I will likely be adding two more Dayton HO18's either in late december or early Janurary. I will then try and find another EP4000 for that pair.

Marty - 2 of these 18s will get you plenty of output in that sized room. The caps will have substantially more output around port tune (20hz) but the Daytons will extend way lower and will keep up nicely above port tune. The ep4k in stereo will give them a true 650 each which should be a fair amount of power to get them moving. Perhaps you could make the boxes a bit larger since they will not be maxed out with power.
post #399 of 1005
I would think a single dual opposed box with dual HO's would have more output than a submersive. Of course they would want a 2400 watt amp as well. I would just bridge the ep4000 and wire the drivers as one.
post #400 of 1005
Quote:
Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post

I would think a single dual opposed box with dual HO's would have more output than a submersive. Of course they would want a 2400 watt amp as well. I would just bridge the ep4000 and wire the drivers as one.

Hopefully this mystery will be solved on the 15th.
post #401 of 1005
What's on the 15th? A showdown?
post #402 of 1005
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

What's on the 15th? A showdown?

I've been attempting to get a few of the 'locals' together to compared some of the popular sealed offerings with my Daytons. tongue.gif So far just gathering interest, and of course December is a tough time of the year for most guys unfortunately. smile.gif
post #403 of 1005
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

I've been attempting to get a few of the 'locals' together to compared some of the popular sealed offerings with my Daytons. tongue.gif So far just gathering interest, and of course December is a tough time of the year for most guys unfortunately. smile.gif

yep. And, you are still 10 hours away. Stink
post #404 of 1005
If I cross my fingers and wish upon a star, my new cabinets might be ready by the 15'th and I'd have something competitive... but because it's the holidays I highly doubt it. But... I'm a 'local' and I'd love to attend, I live in Center City.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

I've been attempting to get a few of the 'locals' together to compared some of the popular sealed offerings with my Daytons. tongue.gif So far just gathering interest, and of course December is a tough time of the year for most guys unfortunately. smile.gif
post #405 of 1005
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by imagic View Post

If I cross my fingers and wish upon a star, my new cabinets might be ready by the 15'th and I'd have something competitive... but because it's the holidays I highly doubt it. But... I'm a 'local' and I'd love to attend, I live in Center City.

Man, you're way too close not to attend. I will keep you in the communication loop. cool.gif
post #406 of 1005
Quote:
Originally Posted by bossobass View Post

So, your big boxes will be raw plywood held together with duct tape? rolleyes.gif We both know it takes a bit more than a sheet of plywood to build a big, resonant-free quad driver box that doesn't look like a used shipping crate. You can wait if you feel the need. My point of reference is that I've used just about every dayton sub driver over the years. No comparison to the UXL-class drivers from the past and others available today.
The Cap FR Jeff posted back when is -5dB @ 20 Hz... with DSP correction, you can make any sub dead flat, but that doesn't mean it keeps its output flat at 20 Hz with the original response. Put it this way, I'll have to see proof that it has a 12dB advantage at 20 Hz
Yer on. cool.gif
When will you post the results to compare it to the UXL? I'll gladly eat my words if I have to then. Until then, it's a 12 mm Dayton. wink.gif

the results are in. ricci wins the bet.

post #407 of 1005
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

the results are in. ricci wins the bet.

Awesome...

I'm assuming a similar result against my LMS-U's here in the next few weeks.
post #408 of 1005
Thread Starter 
^ Woot.

So the grills are all glued and sprayed black. My wife and I just finished wrapping the first one in fabric and it turned it pretty good! The corners are tricky to get right, but they turned out 'good enough' for the first attempt. The one downside is the wood is slightly warped (big surprise so that one of the magnets does not always make contact. Bah.

49E2F08A-8EF4-45DE-91FC-C9BEAB06C679-6154-00000889C3900779.jpg
00B54A25-7ECD-4798-AAC3-22C4405C6996-6154-00000889C65F2F98.jpg

A95293D3-97BE-40F6-B3A9-E614D4C91EE3-6154-0000088A5490758F.jpg
post #409 of 1005
Nice work Gorilla!
post #410 of 1005
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

The one downside is the wood is slightly warped (big surprise so that one of the magnets does not always make contact. Bah.

What about if you steamed the wood to soften it up some, then placed the grill on a flat surface with something heavy on top? Would that straighten it out enough after it dried so the magnets would come in contact again? Actually, would the steam mess up the glue you used? See why I don't do DIY? tongue.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

A95293D3-97BE-40F6-B3A9-E614D4C91EE3-6154-0000088A5490758F.jpg

Is your screen in the corner now???
post #411 of 1005
Jim, he had L/R risers there before, i think the angle of the pic is throwing you off

see
http://www.rootminus1.com/admin/AVS/G2G%20Phtos/DSC_3711.jpg
post #412 of 1005
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gpmbc View Post

Nice work Gorilla!

Thanks bud!
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimWilson View Post

What about if you steamed the wood to soften it up some, then placed the grill on a flat surface with something heavy on top? Would that straighten it out enough after it dried so the magnets would come in contact again? Actually, would the steam mess up the glue you used? See why I don't do DIY? tongue.gif
Is your screen in the corner now???

Meh, I'm not worried about it, I'm going to leave it alone for now. I'll figure out something eventually and even add another magnet on the grill if I need to.

As for the screen, it's exactly the same from the GTG.
post #413 of 1005
Thread Starter 
Quick fix! The magnets are recessed back into the frame far enough that I just stacked another on top of it and it pulls right into the baffle! It's probably out another tenth of an inch further than the other corners but it's the bottom left hand corner and not noticeable at all. Woot.
post #414 of 1005
do you actually run your center on the floor? or is it just there for relative size?
post #415 of 1005
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sibuna View Post

Jim, he had L/R risers there before, i think the angle of the pic is throwing you off
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

As for the screen, it's exactly the same from the GTG.

That's what is throwing me off; the risers were in the corner, and there's no way that screen is going to fit there anyway. Guess it's that special 90 degree angle lens which is making it look that way. biggrin.gif

BTW; those subs really do look nice. How many hours do you have on them so far?
post #416 of 1005
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimWilson View Post

That's what is throwing me off; the risers were in the corner, and there's no way that screen is going to fit there anyway. Guess it's that special 90 degree angle lens which is making it look that way. biggrin.gif
BTW; those subs really do look nice. How many hours do you have on them so far?

Thanks Jim! I know by now I have to have a significant amount of time into them. If I had to guess maybe 15-20 hours for the pair of them so far? I'm sure the next time around would be a bit quicker though. That time included figuring out new jigs for the router, new bits, new sanders, etc. I'd like to think I'd be able to cut down on the next round of them by a significant margin. I guess we will find out soon enough when I order the next 4 of them. biggrin.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sibuna View Post

do you actually run your center on the floor? or is it just there for relative size?

Normally no, but I have been running it there since I'll need to build a new stand for it now. Surprisingly it doesn't sound too bad in it's current location though - of course this was after I moved it OUT past the subs.
post #417 of 1005
Thread Starter 
Both front grills complete. Watched Spiderman with the wife and some pretty high levels and they managed to stay on. biggrin.gif I think I'll knock out the rear grills sometime tomorrow time permitting of course. Starting to get a little better at this, too. tongue.gif Man, I can't wait to get them painted. I'm about tired of looking at this primer, heh.

967235DA-2B7D-4FCB-8C91-2C88B0A6B156-6154-0000089A1C9357C0.jpg
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post #418 of 1005
have you stuffed them yet or no?
post #419 of 1005
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sibuna View Post

have you stuffed them yet or no?

Nah, I've been waiting to break down the boxes for when they are ready to paint. Removing both sides of the drivers and lining them up is a PITA and I'd like to avoid it as much as possible, heh.
post #420 of 1005
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

the results are in. ricci wins the bet.

Why are you comparing 4 drivers to 1 and calling it dual drivers? Ahh, you're doubling the drivers AND the amplifier. Doesn't work that way. Josh probably should ping you on how to interpret his data. smile.gif

UXL has almost 3X the displacement. The numbers verify that. Pretty simple.
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