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First DIY project for a guy looking to upgrade - multiple sealed 18s? - Page 17

post #481 of 1005
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gpmbc View Post

One point of correction, Bosso never referenced bridging the FP14k at 4ohms. He said 2) 4 ohm stereo channels or 1) 8ohm bridged. 8 of these on a clone would be effortless output for both the drivers and amp. IMO 4 of these wired for a 4ohm load bridged is the sweet spot (highest amp output, max efficiency) for something like the marathon or crown and cerwin Vega amps referenced earlier. Or...8 on the clone either stereo or bridged.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bossobass View Post

The UXL X4 system would be 14000W Bridged into 4 ohms. Another plausible system, IMO and experience. 96dB @ 2M @ 10 Hz short term drives the system close to its max plus 12dB = 108dB.

smile.gif
post #482 of 1005
Mmm mmm nothin like a little filet of sole aka foot in mouth.
post #483 of 1005
I'm just laughing that we're even arguing that (2) of the Dayton's at ~$460 shipped when purchased in the quads they likely would/are being purchased even compete or are close enough to consider with one of the best (if not the best when viewed against a $950 Ultra or $850 xxx) values of any serious driver in our hobby at what, $530 shipped, and a 15+% increase in price?

And as someone else already mentioned, we haven't discussed SQ, THD, etc, but simply output, and then, likely just a handful of db's that will be not just off the table 99% of the time, but in the basement, in the storage room, sitting on the 2x4 and mdf shelving system next to the spam.

Great then; I'm still elated over my $933 out the door for four.

James
Edited by mastermaybe - 11/27/12 at 6:49pm
post #484 of 1005
Quote:
Note that, when stacking dual modules vs one, the connection to the amplifier drops in resistance from eight ohms to four ohms. That effectively doubles the amplifier power, or adds +3dB of power. Note also that doubling the number of drivers adds +3dB of sensitivity against the amplifier power, so, as expected by the physics involved, the dual module sweep is an average of +6dB louder, all else being left the same.

guess who I am quoting here.
post #485 of 1005
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Simonian View Post

I would certainly NOT like to see the UXL-18 disappear. Sure wish I saw more builds with them, actually. It's a great driver too for the money but up in a higher ....umm ... "grade" than the Daytons.

I ordered 4 UXL-18's and will be starting the build this weekend. I will hopefully start the build thread this weekend too. BTW great job on the build Gorilla83.
post #486 of 1005
Quote:
2 X UXL-18 will mop the floor with 4 X 18HO.
....
a pair of Daytons has higher sensitivity down low than a single UXL. How so? Aren't the Daytons 3.41 ohm drivers? How would he wire them? Surely not parallel, which would be 1.7 ohms. No, you'd wire them in series. Double the resistance and what happens to your sensitivity?

even if one buys the assumption there are no 2 ohm stable amps and that all drivers must be powered from the same channel:

2 x UXL-18 = 2 oHms nominal
4 x 18HO = 4 oHms nominal
post #487 of 1005
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gpmbc View Post

Mmm mmm nothin like a little filet of sole aka foot in mouth.

LOL, no worries man. cool.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by k2fast4u View Post

I ordered 4 UXL-18's and will be starting the build this weekend. I will hopefully start the build thread this weekend too. BTW great job on the build Gorilla83.

Thank you and really looking forward to your build as well. What amp(s) will you be using? That should (will) be a very stout setup.
post #488 of 1005
I've run a pair of Daytons (for a 2 ohm load) on each side of my Crown XLS 2500 to reference+ levels with zero ill-effects, thus far.

James
post #489 of 1005
I have run my old eD 190v2's using a 2 ohm load as well. Both the EP-2500 and Ada MPA-500 handled 2 ohm at reference just fine with 8 subs. The Ada can do 650 watts at 2 ohms and the 2500 can do 800 watts at 2 ohms. I could not tell a difference during movies at reference or even 10 dBs hot as both had plenty with 8 drivers. I am now running 12 13AV2's on a bridged clone FP14K with no problems and I have run 130 dB sine wave into 10, 15, and 20hz. No movie puts that much strain on the amp if you have multiples. I have never clipped the clone during any scene with a 6 dB low shelf filter and 5 dBs hot over reference but the bass is insane(125 dBs).
post #490 of 1005
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Thank you and really looking forward to your build as well. What amp(s) will you be using?

The FP10000Q clone amp. I did some fee air testing on the first driver and the amp on all 4 channels. No problems so far.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

That should (will) be a very stout setup.

I hope so. If not I will just have to add 4 more!!biggrin.gif
post #491 of 1005
My 10Q worked great in 4 channel mode with 4 CHT 18.2's. One channel per sub driving two drivers. This would be perfect for 4 dual driver dayton subs as well.
post #492 of 1005
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by k2fast4u View Post

The FP10000Q clone amp. I did some fee air testing on the first driver and the amp on all 4 channels. No problems so far.
I hope so. If not I will just have to add 4 more!!biggrin.gif

Awesome!
Quote:
Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post

My 10Q worked great in 4 channel mode with 4 CHT 18.2's. One channel per sub driving two drivers. This would be perfect for 4 dual driver dayton subs as well.

Hmmm. I guess this might be a (slightly) better option than running 2 dual opposed boxes on each channel of a FP14K at 4 ohm? tongue.gif
post #493 of 1005
By the way, and not to intrude on Rilla's thread, but I decided I couldn't live with two very slight cosmetic blemishes on one of my Daytons (the other three were perfect) and PE exchanged it, no questions asked.

I suppose if I was going with grills I would have lived with them (just a tiny dent on the cone- barely noticeable- and a little nick on the dust cap) but right in the open I know it would have driven me nuts.


I've had nothing but great experiences with PE, thus far, just thought I'd throw it out there.

James
post #494 of 1005
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Awesome!
Hmmm. I guess this might be a (slightly) better option than running 2 dual opposed boxes on each channel of a FP14K at 4 ohm? tongue.gif

Failure rate of the FP10KQ Clone is notably higher than the FP14K.
post #495 of 1005
I would think bridging a 14k with 8 Dayton's would be best. An 8 ohm load would still provide enough power and an easy load for the amp. My 12 drivers are about a 6.3 ohm load on a bridged 14k. I have reached levels I will never use so movies are easy.
post #496 of 1005
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

Failure rate of the FP10KQ Clone is notably higher than the FP14K.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post

I would think bridging a 14k with 8 Dayton's would be best. An 8 ohm load would still provide enough power and an easy load for the amp. My 12 drivers are about a 6.3 ohm load on a bridged 14k. I have reached levels I will never use so movies are easy.

Well, sounds like the 14K may be the ticket overall, It will be awesome if we can demo popa's clone at my place on the 15th. biggrin.gif
post #497 of 1005
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Well, sounds like the 14K may be the ticket overall, It will be awesome if we can demo popa's clone at my place on the 15th. biggrin.gif

Replacement board is enroute as of yesterday. Should get here with time to spare.

We'll see though.
post #498 of 1005
Quote:
Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post

I would think bridging a 14k with 8 Dayton's would be best. An 8 ohm load would still provide enough power and an easy load for the amp. My 12 drivers are about a 6.3 ohm load on a bridged 14k. I have reached levels I will never use so movies are easy.

Very efficient use of your amp buddy! At 6.3 ohm bridged, you should be getting over 10K watts easy, right?

I'm impressed!
post #499 of 1005
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

Very efficient use of your amp buddy! At 6.3 ohm bridged, you should be getting over 10K watts easy, right?
I'm impressed!

Here is a video

http://vimeo.com/53050429

Take a peek at my thread to see the THD numbers, reference is covered.
post #500 of 1005
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post

Here is a video
http://vimeo.com/53050429
Take a peek at my thread to see the THD numbers, reference is covered.

LOVE it. That is some serious woofage!
post #501 of 1005
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

LOVE it. That is some serious woofage!

So running my subs hot 5 dBs is easy for me because I have headroom. Many people get peaks of 125 dBs or so when measuring with a spl meter(mostly at 20-40hz) but they could have peaks in their response too. Compression and THD numbers will tell you more than the spl meter(although that was fun too). With my new setup I knocked out a recessed light and I keep blowing the doors open when I forget to lock them.
post #502 of 1005
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

Failure rate of the FP10KQ Clone is notably higher than the FP14K.

I think the reason I stuck with the 14 was that it wasn't down as much as the 10q....another thing to consider.
post #503 of 1005
Thread Starter 
A preview while the third coat is drying. I have two heaters in the room that are greatly helping with the drying/curing process. Terminal mounting, poly stuffing, and driver install coming this afternoon!

In the end they came out very nice, but this stuff does require some practice. Next time I will for sure lay down a flat black paint as a primer intead of the greyish base I had on there. This stuff is like a gel type substance and is very thick. I used the 4" textured roller that I got from Duretex with the order which kind of made things tricky during the basecoat. Next time I will probably use a smooth roller to lay down the base coat, then move to the textured. It does clean up VERY easy though when still wet and using the 4" roller made cleanup go very quickly between coats.

For anyone wondering, Duratex sells a gallon of this stuff for 52.00 plus shipping. That seems like a lot, but I used only about 1/3 of it to do 3 coats on both cabinets including the bottoms. If you were to use a flat black base coat you could get away with even less.

6A6C2500-2147-4D57-8258-F58AA9C1956C-1707-000002464CA851B0.jpg
post #504 of 1005
Definitely worthy of some chest pounding Gorilla!
post #505 of 1005
I thought primer is optional with Duratex
post #506 of 1005
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by zheka View Post

I thought primer is optional with Duratex

Indeed it is optional.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gpmbc View Post

Definitely worthy of some chest pounding Gorilla!

Thanks man!

Here we go - the final product:

D508CCB9-F445-4D8F-ABD4-B3C2CDCF01E7-1953-0000026D34513656.jpg
8DBB0530-5138-4D5B-9135-606D50EE7291-1953-0000026D315AF8BB.jpg
489B2A8A-2646-4880-AD11-9DF88058332B-1953-0000026D0DB4FB80.jpg
0DB08F30-8075-4834-9978-6FA98A11BBB9-1953-0000026D1472537D.jpg
9B841F0D-3466-4D16-A856-80A4688838EC-1953-0000026D184EAD6A.jpg

With and without grills
9BD821B4-B35C-46A8-9165-E0ABE2825E6A-1953-0000026D0AAD8A26.jpg

Next to the Captivator!
F91C58A1-0DD0-45E8-A4FD-7894E4539A8C-1953-0000026CF5B6F33A.jpg
8862C7E4-7CF8-4575-930A-7E0909C93AAF-1953-0000026CEC6611D5.jpg

Final product!
3483E456-F66E-4B3A-9C69-C0FA54EEFEC0-1953-0000026CF8F97FB0.jpg
post #507 of 1005
Flat out awesome. Great Job!
post #508 of 1005
I think I'll be using duratex next time around.
post #509 of 1005
excellent duratex application. makes me ashamed of mine.
post #510 of 1005
They turned out great bro!!!
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