First DIY project for a guy looking to upgrade - multiple sealed 18s? - Page 19

Excellent.

Nuff said.


James

Wow, these turned out great. I am definitely thinking Duratex now for my project, thanks for all the details and pictures, super helpful!

You really did a great job...

Seeing so many projects, i might finally get off my ass and build my 4x Aura NS-18 Subs. Dual Opposed doesn't look too bad, but i keep feeling that 2x Danley DTS-10s are enough for my living room.

Yeah. You better build something with them! I wanted to buy them off ya but you no ship.

I think there are four on the classifieds, but those might one and the same.

Yeah. Those are UFO's Aura's and it is stated that he would not ship. Local pickup.

I'd be all over those!

WTH you gonna use more 18's fa? Wait, uh....n/m

Why the shipping anxiety? It's not like they're DTS 10s.

Too much is never enough.

Excellent.

how many in total are you making?

8 is exactly what I would think. Notnyt's setup comes to mind the instant I first saw this driver. While not LMS5400s uber(8 living in 130+dB) territory they still model extremely well for not needing as much juice to power them.

Just how far are they really behind though?

Looking at the Data-Bass tests of both drivers in a 4.2 cu.ft. box, the Dayton is down 8 dB at 10Hz, 6 dB at 20Hz, and from 20-40Hz it only trails by about 2 dB average. Simply adding another Dayton for $250 gets you equivalent output at 20 Hz and +4 dB in the ever-important 20-40Hz range. Add 2 more Daytons -- for a grand total of $6.05 more for 4 than the single LMS -- and we now have a 10 dB gain in that range! Plus, you have the added benefit of the option of distributing cabinets throughout the room for evening out room modes. But wait, there's more -- you also don't have to roll the dice and play the super-fun game of "Clone Lottery" to see if you will get one of the relatively inexpensive high power amps that it takes to drive this monster that doesn't blow itself up.

Yes, the LMS is amazingly clean in the distortion and sound quality arenas and goes in tiny cabs, but WOW is it ever expensive!!! I would have to put my money on the 4 Daytons loafing along while still easily outpacing a single LMS 5400.

$7406.96 for notnyt's 8 drivers from Parts Express as of today!

Holy crap, I don't even have that much into all of the sound and video equipment in my whole HT room! And it's no slouch either...3 Yorkville U15 Unitys for LCR, 4 SEOS horn kits for surround, 8 Stereo Integrity 18" drivers in quad IB manifolds, 4 QSC amps (2 DCA1622 2-channel, 1 DCA1644 4-channel, 1 CX168 8-channel), QSC DSP's (a Basis 922dz and 2 DSP-4's), and an Onkyo PR-SC885 processor. This leaves me just shy of $2400 leftover to buy the yet-undecided projector, Blu-Ray player, and a Jamestown/Seymour AT screen -- which will be done because I have 100% light control and don't want 3D. Yes, all of the audio equipment but the IB subs was purchased used, but it is all in very good condition.

I'm in no way trying to undermine or take anything way from notnyt's system. I believe it to be one of the finest bass systems on the forum (70 liters of Vd!) and am sure it sounds totally incredible. I am also sure he is quite comfortable knowing how much he spent. The point is...damn, that LMS 5400 is expensive!!! ...and I believe less expensive drivers in multiples are a far better way to go for 98% of us (as I bet autox320 does as well; just wanted to illustrate it).
Edited by Aaron Smith - 12/6/12 at 10:37pm

aaron, i don't disagree with you. for some folks, cab size matters and the 18ho wasn't an option when 'not built his system. the 18ho and the 18 from sound integrity both appear to be good values in the current market.

I was a little wound up when I typed that John...it just blew my mind comprehending how expensive 8 of those drivers are, and then realizing they cost as much as I will have into my whole not-too-shabby A/V system!

that's why i said that i don't disagree with you. ;-) you are right on.

just trying to keep a little perspective that there is a place for the long throw, big motor, drives.

Lightweight!!!

How is this possible... Are these the SI HT subs yet available to the public? I thought they don't ship until 30 Dec?

Or is this your "hypothetical" Home Theater setup to illustrate your point?

Well from how I'm looking at them you'd need about double Dayton HO's, so 16 HO's for 8 LMS 5400s. That's me taking into account the max wattage for each HO is 1300rms. Now maybe could get away with more in bursts but 16kw on 8 HO's sure closes up the gap. I'm no winISD expert by any means so maybe some others can chime in.

IMO the LMS ultra 5400s are many bones more for a reason and can handle a lot more continuous. But how many of us are going to drive full bore hours at a time?
Not to mention the power sub panel service of at least 100A and the bill to go with it lol. I still keep that in mind when we talk arrays of gear running.

You could say it's ''hypothetical" I suppose until the subs actually get here. The SI drivers are slated to ship 12-30; they were purchased a few days ago and the charge is showing on the AMEX, so it feels like I own them now.

All of the other audio gear is here -- save for a single U15 I'm still trying to locate for center, and the SEOS kits -- still debating surrounds as I already have parts for Econowaves or there are Tannoy 8" or 10" dual concentric speakers to use, but I'm kind of liking the Daniel SEOS kits.

Yes, I am kind of a cheap & thrifty bargain-hunting type of guy.

IMO, this misses the point a little, in that 2x Daytons or SI vs. LMS is more efficient, so the LMS power handling (arguably overstated, BTW) is necessary just for it to keep up. I, for one, would love to have 8 (or even 16!) SIs instead of 4 LMSs, but unfortunately cubic dollars and watts have to substitute for cubic inches in this particular situation...

Congrats on your purchase.

Where is Big Sky Country?

Montana.

I only use PL if I know there is a slight gap or for tapped horn when attaining a good seal is important when you put on the last panel, if not then Titebond works just fine. You can just run a bead of tightbond on the inside as well if it's accessible, it will seal just as good as PL.

If your cuts are straight and everything fits together tight then Tightbond is all that's needed.