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First DIY project for a guy looking to upgrade - multiple sealed 18s? - Page 30

post #871 of 994
2/1/13 at 9:27pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnDean View Post

In dual opposed? That would be either 2 or 8 ohms? I somehow don't think an inuke in 8 ohm mono is the same as a CV5000 on 1 channel of 2 ohm stereo. I've been wrong before though.

I'm gonna order a cv5000 and give it a whirl, if I'm not satisfied, I'll go bigger or order another set.

Out of curiousity what would be next besides a clone in this power class for 2 DO Daytons?

I think you will be happy with the CV5K, its an awesome amp!
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post #872 of 994
2/2/13 at 6:24am
the problem with the inukes is that they are not good impedance matches for the dayton ho drivers.

the 3000 will get you about 820 watts rms running one sub per channel.

http://www.behringer.com/assets/NU1000_NU3000_NU6000_NU1000DSP_NU3000DSP_NU6000DSP_WebBrochure.pdf

even those rms numbers are high. probably about right for the 8 ohm configurations, but there is going to be significant power sag at 20hz in either 4ohm bridge mode or 2ohm stereo mode.

the 6000 is not 2 ohm stable per channel, so forget doubling up.

the cv5000 appears to be a pretty good pimp for a quad set of ho's.

alternatively, one dayton per channel of a 6000 would be interesting if keeping things under control with the dsp.
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post #873 of 994
2/2/13 at 6:41am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Can't say for sure about roll off, but my Crown appears to be solid down to 7hz or so.

The clone running in 8 ohm stereo driving a pair sounded nearly identical to the Crown running in 2 ohm stereo driving the pair if that helps.

BTW my clone amp is down for repair at the moment. I'm going to be powering all 4 pairs shortly with the Crown. Looking forward to see how it sounds. smile.gif

Here is a link to a comparison Carp and Mr. Smithers did vs. the Submersive using the CV5000 to power the daytons.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1407184/carps-basement-hide-out/180#post_22761881

That link missed the pics of the 2 subs and some impressions, here is a few posts earlier:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1407184/carps-basement-hide-out/180#post_22761841
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post #874 of 994
2/2/13 at 6:42am
Errrr I guess one post earlier.
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post #875 of 994
2/2/13 at 8:08am
Ok, doing more research I've noticed... i love lamp.
answered my own question with search. thanks again.smile.gif
Edited by Medi0gre - 2/3/13 at 7:05am
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post #876 of 994
2/19/13 at 7:19am
Gorilla, did you end up with Dayton or SI drivers in the silverbacks?

Fella over here pondering his options.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1457715/need-to-fill-big-room-help-with-my-decision-pls/60
If you have a minute, weigh in.

He's been all over the place from caps, and orbit shifters, to tapped horns and buying MKs subs he's got for sale.
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post #877 of 994
2/19/13 at 7:21am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dstew100 View Post

Gorilla, did you end up with Dayton or SI drivers in the silverbacks?

Fella over here pondering his options.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1457715/need-to-fill-big-room-help-with-my-decision-pls/60
If you have a minute, weigh in.

He's been all over the place from caps, and orbit shifters, to tapped horns and buying MKs subs he's got for sale.

The current silverback build uses the Dayton drivers. I'm going to whip something up with the SI drivers I have laying around in the next few months. biggrin.gif
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post #878 of 994
2/19/13 at 9:12am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Can't say for sure about roll off, but my Crown appears to be solid down to 7hz or so.

The clone running in 8 ohm stereo driving a pair sounded nearly identical to the Crown running in 2 ohm stereo driving the pair if that helps.

BTW my clone amp is down for repair at the moment. I'm going to be powering all 4 pairs shortly with the Crown. Looking forward to see how it sounds. smile.gif

Did you post somewhere what the repair issue was on your Clone amp?
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post #879 of 994
2/19/13 at 9:17am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Seaton View Post

Did you post somewhere what the repair issue was on your Clone amp?

Hey Mark - funny you should ask. I just got done chatting with Johnson from Sanway. We ran through a few quick tests but nothing definitive. They are going to swap out the amp, looks like I'm shipping it back their way. cool.gif
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post #880 of 994
2/19/13 at 9:20am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Hey Mark - funny you should ask. I just got done chatting with Johnson from Sanway. We ran through a few quick tests but nothing definitive. They are going to swap out the amp, looks like I'm shipping it back their way. cool.gif

Gald to hear they are gonna make it right!
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post #881 of 994
2/19/13 at 9:25am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChopShop1 View Post

Gald to hear they are gonna make it right!

Well, I will cross my fingers that all goes well until I have a working amp again back here. tongue.gif
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post #882 of 994
2/19/13 at 10:06am
How's the Crown running all 4 or did you end up trying that?
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post #883 of 994
2/19/13 at 10:13am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnDean View Post

How's the Crown running all 4 or did you end up trying that?

The crown actually does a damn good job powering all 8 drivers - even at 'only' 1800W per channel in that configuration. I guess having all those drivers and their combined high sensitivity helps out quite a bit. The output is much more than a sane person would need, but it is still significantly less powerful than the clone at full tilt. Measurement wise (FR) it looks exactly the same as the clone amp during 100db sweeps down to 6hz or so.

Right now I'm running the Crown bridged at 4 ohms driving 2 of the near field boxes. The amp seems to have quite a bit of power in this configuration. It's doing a good job of holding me over until I get full Sanway power back up and running. I'm thankful to have a backup amp handy!
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post #884 of 994
2/19/13 at 10:15am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Hey Mark - funny you should ask. I just got done chatting with Johnson from Sanway. We ran through a few quick tests but nothing definitive. They are going to swap out the amp, looks like I'm shipping it back their way. cool.gif

Are they making you pay the shipping back to them?
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post #885 of 994
2/19/13 at 10:28am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by keager View Post

Are they making you pay the shipping back to them?

Yes, I think so and it doesn't look like it will be cheap! eek.gif
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post #886 of 994
2/19/13 at 11:45am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Yes, I think so and it doesn't look like it will be cheap! eek.gif

My 10000q was gonna be close to 400 to ship back to them. Did they offer to send repair parts free of charge?
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post #887 of 994
2/19/13 at 11:48am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by keager View Post

My 10000q was gonna be close to 400 to ship back to them. Did they offer to send repair parts free of charge?

Yeah, I'm showing about 350 via DHL. There is a major short somewhere, I can't get voltage to anything without blowing fuses in the power supply section. As we were going through the diagnostics, johnson's reply was "wow" a few times, LOL.
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post #888 of 994
2/19/13 at 11:56am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Yeah, I'm showing about 350 via DHL. There is a major short somewhere, I can't get voltage to anything without blowing fuses in the power supply section. As we were going through the diagnostics, johnson's reply was "wow" a few times, LOL.

Lame. During my amp problems, Johnson sent me an entire power supply board. Which I replaced and didn't fix all the symptoms. I the entire boards are pretty easy to replace if he can send you the one he thinks is bad. I'm sure you've considered that option.
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post #889 of 994
2/19/13 at 12:24pm
Have you looked closely at all of the boards for any burn marks? I have a friend that used to repair car amps and I could never find the problems until he showed them to me. I'd seriously consider a local repair place before I paid 50% of the unit's price to send it back to them. That sucks that it's costing that much.
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post #890 of 994
2/19/13 at 12:27pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnDean View Post

Have you looked closely at all of the boards for any burn marks? I have a friend that used to repair car amps and I could never find the problems until he showed them to me. I'd seriously consider a local repair place before I paid 50% of the unit's price to send it back to them. That sucks that it's costing that much.

I'm going to get some quotes from the family's shop tomorrow. We do a lot of business with DHL, fedex, and ups so I should be able to get a bit better pricing. Another option is to order a replacement and continue to troubleshoot this one with a local shop, which could wind up costing more depending on the parts involved. I'll see what the final shipping cost will be and go from there. It's crazy they can ship to us for 90.00 but it costs so much to go back there??
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post #891 of 994
2/19/13 at 12:49pm
So are you still troubleshooting with johnson?
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post #892 of 994
2/19/13 at 12:51pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by keager View Post

So are you still troubleshooting with johnson?

Not at this point. We came to the conclusion that the power supply board and at least one of the amp boards have an issue.
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post #893 of 994
2/19/13 at 2:34pm
Good luck to you, however you decide to handle it. If you repair it, pm me with questions. I operated on mine several times. Been going strong for about 6 months now.
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post #894 of 994
2/19/13 at 3:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by keager View Post

Good luck to you, however you decide to handle it. If you repair it, pm me with questions. I operated on mine several times. Been going strong for about 6 months now.

+1

Keager's got skillz.
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post #895 of 994
2/19/13 at 3:21pm
$350 for shipping is crazy! yikes!
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post #896 of 994
2/19/13 at 3:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

the cv5000 appears to be a pretty good pimp for a quad set of ho's.

Best post ever! tongue.gif
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post #897 of 994
2/19/13 at 5:17pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by keager View Post

Good luck to you, however you decide to handle it. If you repair it, pm me with questions. I operated on mine several times. Been going strong for about 6 months now.

Keager - thanks man, really appreciate it. I may just take you up on that. If shipping is going to be that crazy, I might just wind up ordering some new boards and fixing it. Especially when I'm going to have to cover shipping both ways. I figure I can order another amp and some replacement parts at the same time.
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post #898 of 994
2/19/13 at 5:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

the problem with the inukes is that they are not good impedance matches for the dayton ho drivers.

the 3000 will get you about 820 watts rms running one sub per channel.

http://www.behringer.com/assets/NU1000_NU3000_NU6000_NU1000DSP_NU3000DSP_NU6000DSP_WebBrochure.pdf

even those rms numbers are high. probably about right for the 8 ohm configurations, but there is going to be significant power sag at 20hz in either 4ohm bridge mode or 2ohm stereo mode.

the 6000 is not 2 ohm stable per channel, so forget doubling up.

the cv5000 appears to be a pretty good pimp for a quad set of ho's.

alternatively, one dayton per channel of a 6000 would be interesting if keeping things under control with the dsp.


Hey LTD,

I was planning on using a NU3000DSP for a pair of Dayton 18 HO's. If I run the iNuke in stereo mode would there still be a power sag?

If so, what are affordable alternatives? I was liking the NU3000DSP for power range with the 18 HO's, DSP, unbalanced input (won't need a clean box), and price point.

Thanks
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post #899 of 994
2/19/13 at 6:36pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Keager - thanks man, really appreciate it. I may just take you up on that. If shipping is going to be that crazy, I might just wind up ordering some new boards and fixing it. Especially when I'm going to have to cover shipping both ways. I figure I can order another amp and some replacement parts at the same time.

Order the real deal boards from LG then smile.gif probably not that bad if they ACTUALLY let you have them!!! Having broken mine open tonight to do the fan mods, some of the work is sub-par in there, but what do you really expect for 1/5 the price...Beggars can't be choosers I guess....
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post #900 of 994
2/19/13 at 7:02pm
JAVA,

LTD02 is right. The 4ohm rating on the Dayton HO doesn't work that great with the INuke DSP 3000 because of an impedance mismatch to get the best out of both subs and amp collectively.

At 4ohm the Inuke DSP 3000 puts out 620 watts per channel RMS in stereo and 820 watts peak per channel according to the brochure that LTD02 linked. Not quite enough power for the Dayton's but a good matching amount of power for the SI 18's. (dual 2 ohm voice coil model)

If you can swing for an INuke DSP 6000 you put out 2200 watts per channel RMS in stereo and 3000 watts peak per channel in stereo at 4ohm according to the same brochure. That's too much power for the Dayton 18's - but if you could use the INuke's DSP voltage limiter function, which effectively lets you choose a max wattage to put into the drivers and that would work perfectly. You'd not have to worry about bottoming a driver with that voltage limiter in place and it's as simple as sliding a knob to tell it how many watts at what ohm you want the amp to start showing clip lights and engage clip limiting. Of course the DSP 6000 isn't as cheap as the DSP 3000, but it's a good choice.

From my experience - The Inuke DSP rocks!
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