Here is my systems signal routing path & devices, as of 2013
The source is a PC via a Xonar HDAV, analog RCA-outs to the multi-pre-in's on the UMC-1.
The UMC-1 is my pre-amp for now... which I then split both LR stereo outputs, one stereo pair to my Rotel monoblocks with FMOD-150 HP's and then directly on to the B&W HF in's (2000 peak watts estimated),
the 2nd stereo pair goes to all the woofers/subs, this is connected to my BFD for RCA to XLR conversion.
[I'm planning on buying an XSP-1 soon, which will do that instead and at much higher fidelity too I might add; thus no longer needing the BFD for that task.]
The BFD also chops off the high bits above 5khz (high-bass). That then goes into two bridged XTI 4K's which have their own XO's and EQ's which feed the LR B&W LF's in dual mono (2+2ohm, 6400 peak watts estimated),
each of those XTI's are daisy-chained in dual-mono/stereo to the DEQ, I have an ECM mic connected to the DEQ for RTA monitoring as well.
So after the dynamic EQ'ing and further choping of high bits(sub-bass), this then goes into the iTech 8k, which has it's own XO/DSP/dynamics processors, that powers the dual LMS's (stereo 1ohm, 8000 peak watts estimated).
this is then daisy-chained to the DCX, where it splits the stereo L+R into 3-stereo outputs, A-L1 and B-R1 each goes to one EP4K's in dual-parellel stereo 4-ohm which powers the quad Dayton Pro 18's (30hz to 1khz, 8000 peak watts estimated).
A-L2, B-R2, A-L3, B-R3 goes into the FP10kQ which powers the dual 21's and dual SDX-15's (0hz or 20hz to 120 or 200 ish hz) in quad 4-ohm (8400 peak watts estimated).
The other 5 channel outs on the UMC-1 go to my other rotel amps (3000 peak watts estimated), for the center channel and surrounds for a 7.9+ config in movie-mode (HDMI digital) and 2.9+ config in music-mode (analog hard-wire).
The XSP-1 would be an extension to the UMC-1, I'd hook both of them up together, the UMC-1 becoming my movie-DAC, the XONAR remaining the music-DAC, which will feed the XTi and downstream stack as described above.
In movie-mode the LFE track is routed to the DCX C-input which I can then switch the 21's to play that.
All of this allows discrete/independent/balanced channels for proper EQing/XO'ing/Delay etc etc, the DCX achieving that and LFE-mixing and also allow me to preserve the stereo-bass signal to all 10 subs (5L + 5R) , and additionally implement real XO's for the non-crown amps that need it.
Has your head exploded yet? Yeah, it's pretty simple huh? LOL
If you are counting, that's like ~18 interconnected electronic devices in the rack.
I've been eyeballing a 2.2kVA pure 60hz sinewave UPS, a CyberPower PR2200 to be exact; for the: PC, Projector, EQ's, Pre's. Looks like it would be a very smart investment compared to the stepped squarewave 60hz UPS's I have now. Edited by BassThatHz - 12/31/12 at 7:36pm
The test result numbers are in for the Level 37 walls. (re: Post #138)
Keep in mind 5% of my walls aren't finished yet (like a four square foot attic hole and some parts just have the OSB etc etc, but the coverage is the exact same as before).
This time I used a more stringent C-weighting, because I'm playing heavy bass music here. Not exactly Apples to Apples, but whatever. In fact, C-weighted sound proofing is even more difficult to achieve because it measures much of the bass in the readings, where as A does not.
Inside it is 96-107 db-C. and 50ft away I get about 55db-C, 53db-C is the background noisefloor. As you can see, a bird chirpping outside is 61db-C.
The treble is extremely muffled and one can barely make out what song it is standing in my yard, some of the bass below 100hz still leaks out at that distance.
The singular door is still one of the main weak points at +2 to +9db higher that the Level 37 walls. Which will be resolved by adding the second door.
Those numbers are starting to look good, sort-of... that's still only just ONE of the weakest amps and ONE of the weakest speakers and ONE of the weakest subs.
I'm going to need to spend another $1500 to jump from a Level 37, to a Level 38 wall. Which is nearing the point of diminishing returns.
For the amp closet I was thinking of using a plexiglass door, this way I can see the clip lights but it won't rattle and I won't hear the fan noise.
I also purchased 3 gallons of this stuff (it doesn't dry hard) and 3 gallons of generic bathtub sealant (it dries hard), I'm going to use it to seal off the OSB and baseboards.
and then in the springtime I'll probably do another layer of OSB with GreenGlue on the outside, bringing me up to a Level 39 wall.
For the attic access I was thinking I'll probably do a triple 5/8's GreenGlued lid (sitting on weatherstripping, if I have to), with a backing of Roxul and R20.
To fill in a couple holes here (assuming all exterior walls and 2x4 wood studs, interior walls are slightly higher R value (warm air insulated better than cool air, and the air film on the surface of the wall is part of the assembly, and 2x6 have more air/insulation)
All your R values are way too high, don't know how they came up with them. With R12 insulation, a 2x4 @ 16" o.c. wall with gyp on both sides has, at best, a R of 13.5 (then there's the actual efficiency of batt insulation which is a whole nother discussion )
cement isn't a building material, and won't stand up on its own. Once mixed with water and an aggregate, it makes concrete. Concrete cures and will hold its form. Cement is just like sand or dirt
SO many different types of mixtures - heavy weight, lightweight, acoustical, insulating, etc. Lots of different ad mixes too. I used a mid weight structural concrete for R value (0.08/inch). Heavyweight insulates less and lighter stuff insulates more, while insulating concrete is even lighter and insulates the best.
You'd probably want a heavy weight mix for the mass - lightweight is about 3000 lbs per yard, mid weight is about 4000 lbs/yrd, heavyweight can weigh up to 10,000 lbs/yrd. That stuff is wicked expensive and usually used just for radiation screening...
Originally Posted by BassThatHz
1) Single Stud, Single Layer both sides, Not Insulated:
30) Double Stud, Single Layer both sides, Resilient channel on one side, Insulated both sides:
31) Double Stud, Single Layer both sides, one side with soundboard and Resilient channel, Insulated both sides:
32) Double Stud, Single Layer on one side, double layer on the other side with Resilient channel, Insulated both sides:
33) Double Stud, Single Layer on one side, double layer on the other side with soundboard and Resilient channel, Insulated both sides:
34) Double Stud, Double Layer both sides, Resilient channel on one side, Insulated both sides:
35) Double Stud, Single Layer on one side, double layer on the other side with soundboard and Resilient channel, Insulated both sides:
36) Double Stud, Double Layer both sides, One side with soundboard and Resilient channel, Insulated both sides:
37) Double Stud, Single Layer on one side, double layer on the other side with GreenGlue and soundboard and Resilient channel, Insulated both sides:
38) Double Stud, Double Layer both sides, One side with GreenGlue and soundboard and Resilient channel, Insulated both sides:
39) Double Stud, Double Layer both sides, both with GreenGlue and soundboard and Resilient channel, Insulated both sides:
40) Double Stud, Triple Layer both sides, both with GreenGlue and soundboard and Resilient channel, Insulated both sides:
41) Double Stud, Double Layer both sides, One side with soundboard and GreenGlue, Resilient channel on one side, Insulated both sides, With 8inches of cement on one side:
Just curious as to if you ran the wires in the walls and the electrical outlets in the room yet? How many outlets did you run along the walls and the speaker drops. I found I never have enough no matter how many I put in. From now on, when I build, I am putting multiple gang outlets at all points where single gangs would normally be. I cannot stand using those wall warts or the power strips. Just curious.
Good question, I will have 60 channels, 6 short of a full Dolby Atmos setup. I need a minimum of 17 to power all my stuff. (If you want to see what that looks like, see Post #28)
Status Update: Painting and Ceiling Soffits will start any day now, with the electrical following closely.
Drywalling is 100% done at this point.
Ya know, now that I stand back and look at the front wall, my 120" screen is gonna look awfully small in this room. I may have to look into going a bit bigger like 135" or something... I don't know.
I'll have to play around with the seating position and viewing size to see what proportions fits best, the viewing distance will be some where between 10ft to 17ft.
Only the front wall and soffits will be pitch black (1 gallon). I want to wait and see what that will look like first, the remainder will be the "rolled steel" color. I "might" do the ceiling with the black as well, not totally sure... I still need to be able to "see" in there
It's premium-quality printed... haha, fooled ya. Not sure what is it called (it doesn't say). I could afford real stone, but I didn't feel like having to maintain real grout... and I was feeling a little scrooge-like with my coins today; I'd rather put that money into audio upgrades instead.
Since this is an external structure, I figure people will be tracking in a lot of dirt from the back yard and I didn't want to ruin a 100% carpet design, nor clean real grout groves. This stuff I can clean with a swiffer in just one pass.
FINALLY here is what -1 decibels sounds like!!!
I replaced the CFL with an incandescent bulb and now I have ZERO DB'S!!!
This level of quietness is extremely difficult to achieve. The only word to describe it with is: freaky.
The only thing I can hear is my own breathing and the odd train that passes by once an hour or so (roughly a 1/4 mile away), and the odd groan of the drywall as it cools (because I have the heater turned off).
Other than that, just NOTHINGNESS
...well, technically... the microphone has a higher noisefloor than my breathing, (silence you mortal mouthbreather LOL), and my breathing is louder than the room; so you can't hear either via youtube,
and besides your room probably isn't 0-db capable anyways (because your computer probably has a fan and a rotational disk in it I'm guessing); so your room prevents you from listening to mine (unless you run the speakers/signal gain HOT).
This is one of the quietest non-anechoic rooms on the planet, no doubt.
Status Update: First layer of black paint is now up (still drying). Front wall only for now.
If you look at the corner of the floor you can see the difference between the white primer and the "pitch" black and the "steel" color.
Yeah once I get the carpet and acoustical panels up and the second door installed the sound of the room will totally change. Right now it is very echoey.
3rd layer of paint is done. Still a few touch ups left.
Status Update: Delays due to weather. It's been hovering around 15f or -9c.
I live smack between the North West Cascades and the Rockies.
The ranges that birthed: Mount Rainier, Mount Baker, Mount Robson & Mount Elbert... and various glaciers and parks of that nature, you get the idea.
This temp is nothing "abnormal" for this region... but regardless, too cold to install the flooring without more than 15amps of heat power in the room.
I put 30amps of heat-power into it last night in an attempt to raise the room temp to dry stuff out. (Fingers crossed.)
Because the room is air-tight, and not wired with any hvac ducts at the moment; atypical gas-based heaters are out of the question, too much carbon-oxides with that method.
I like to take a mug and hold it right next to the basket and catch the just-popped kernels while they are still so hot, they sizzle for a microsecond when they touch your teeth. I worked as a doorman at an old-fashioned movie theater in my youth and that was my favorite part of the job, stealing the kernels as they came out of the kettle.
Originally Posted by BassThatHz
Purchased a popcorn machine today. IMO you can't have a dedicated theater without one, that would be blasphemy.
Nothing 'uber' fancy though, just your common mini-floorstander model.
It works, I ate some. nom nom nom
and BTW, the 30 amps of heat worked, it also 'warmed' up to just below freezing right now, so it's back to game-on.
my wife seems to have the same model for the parties she has for the kids. I have a Gold Medal 1890's replica that I only use for decoration in the HT because they are so hard to keep really clean. Hers has been working fine for about 5 years now. She paid a couple hundred at Sam's.