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BassThatHz Theater Build - Page 8

post #211 of 548
2/4/13 at 2:24pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by baniels View Post

I don't understand. You can buy a row of 5 for $3,000, but if you want a row of 5 and 1 or 2 extras, the cost is $6,000 or $9,000?

In my room yes... but that is because I'm aiming for optimal-conditions, which is factoring everything, including: air quality, viewing location/angle, SPL level, speaker placements, soundproofing etc etc.
It's not that simple, nor cheap.
To get optimal-conditions, when you increase one thing, everything else must also increase; so the price goes exponential.
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post #212 of 548
2/4/13 at 10:06pm
Thread Starter 
Status Update: Picked up some ductwork for cooling and 3 dimmer switches.
I hate those rotary knob dimmers, these are much better and obvious when it is off or on (no more guessing). These even have an indicator light under the slider surface.
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post #213 of 548
2/6/13 at 9:26pm
Thread Starter 
Status Update: The projector cooling hole is now there and I opened the wall for the amps.





Open sesame.
I need to make the hole bigger yet (and prettier).


Holy cow Batman, it's raining copper!
No worries Robin, I have numbered each wire... biggrin.gif
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post #214 of 548
2/6/13 at 10:21pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bass addict View Post

Maybe I missed it somewhere; but is there any reason you didn't go with a fixed screen as opposed to the drop down? Also, why did you limit yourself to that size?
Great work so far, you are an animal. I wish I worked half that fast. smile.gif

because I like surprising noobs with it. They always ask: where is the TV at? haha
It gives me a good chuckle every time when they realize that 120inches is actually four times the size of their 60inch flat panel, not just double. haha
It gets them every time. Their eyes get all big and stuff, and they then realize, that there ARE actually sound systems out there, that are better than anything that they can find at BestBuy.

First they notice the subs, and then the screen comes out. It's my Shock and Awe technique. I love the smell of napalm in the morning. Every audio-nutter should have such a method. biggrin.gif

also... because I'm reusing all the components from my old theater, and I also like to get the screen out of my way when I'm not in movie-mode. I'm 90% music-mode.
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post #215 of 548
2/7/13 at 10:32am
Thread Starter 
I need a 40ft IR receiver cable system and a also 12ft IR transmitter cable system. This way I can control my sound processor and projector from the front or back face of the room.

Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Sewell-40-IR-Extension-Cable/dp/B0085SG2YM

I mean... I don't really need it, but it would be great to have.
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post #216 of 548
2/7/13 at 1:02pm
I have been following this thread you are doing a great job.
I have a question about those dimmers are they just for the "waiting room" or are they going into the theater?
I have a set of these and I love them, one is IR remote controlled the other is just a dimmer for the stair lighting that I leave on the whole time I am in the theater.
Take a look.

IR controlled
http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MIR-600THW-WH-600-Watt-Infrared-Receiver/dp/B000JJYJMM/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1360270366&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=lutron+maestro+ir

Standard dimmer
http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MAW600H-WH-Electronics-Maestro-Dimmer/dp/B000BPCWQE/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1360270764&sr=1-1&keywords=lutron+maestro+dimmer
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post #217 of 548
2/8/13 at 12:03pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by FUN4ME View Post

I have a question about those dimmers are they just for the "waiting room" or are they going into the theater?
I have a set of these and I love them, one is IR remote controlled the other is just a dimmer for the stair lighting that I leave on the whole time I am in the theater.
...

Just to throw this out there...
I enjoy our Z-Wave dimmers. I have Z-Wave dimmers on the pot lights in the theater, that I control with the theater remote, and I have Z-Wave outdoor plugs, indoor outlets, and switches upstairs that i control with the cheap $9 GE remote.

 

Push "Watch TV" on the remote, and the pot lights ramp down from 50% to 0%, and I have other lighting modes for partial light above seats, and some light over the rear equipment rack, etc. 

 

Fun stuff.

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post #218 of 548
2/8/13 at 12:24pm
Thread Starter 
This z-wave looks sweet.
There is almost no limit to how far one can go with this stuff...

http://www.eguestcontrols.com/products/director-series-controllers/lcd-1/
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post #219 of 548
2/8/13 at 12:41pm
Was in a similar situation when designing mine, been very happy with the following

Check out Insteon switches, specifically
http://www.smarthome.com/2477DH/SwitchLinc-INSTEON-Remote-Control-Dimmer-Dual-Band-High-Wattage-White/p.aspx

Controller:
http://www.smarthome.com/12236DB/ISY994i-IR-PRO-INSTEON-Compatible-Automation-Controller-with-Dual-Band-PLM/p.aspx

IR to network:
http://www.smarthome.com/81181/Global-Cache-IP2IR-iTach-Wired-TCP-IP-to-IR/p.aspx

Remote:
http://www.iruleathome.com/

It's really nice to be able to integrate everything to one control source, so far this has been rock solid and more importantly wife friendly for me
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post #220 of 548
2/10/13 at 2:25pm
Thread Starter 
Status Update: Bought an inductor fan. It's coming along, slow but sure.








Made it bigger. Drained 3 18v batteries on this thing so far.


Column fabric. I was thinking, trunk liner, and then black felt overlay.
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post #221 of 548
2/10/13 at 5:54pm
Thread Starter 
Status Update: Well I just emptied parts express again. tongue.gif

Bought one of these for mounting the projector, hopefully it's short enough to fit in the box.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=185-634


I also purchased enough wire and wallposts for the remaining full 11.10 bi-wired system.
At least I "hope" I purchased enough wire, I still have 10 more voicecoils to wire up yet, and I've only wired 4 out of the 12 future-expansion voicecoils required for full 11 channel bi-wired support eek.gif

It will be as follows, when done:
(2) Front Left
(2) Front Center
(2) Front Right
(4) Front Corner subs
(4) Front LR subs
(4) Side Effects
(4) Side Effects Subs
(4) Rear Effects
(4) Rear Subs
(4) Front Heights
(4) Rear Heights

At the end of the 1000ft spool of wire thus far, I had successfully wired up the following:
(2) Front Left
(2) Front Center
(2) Front Right
(4) Front Corner subs
(4) Front LR subs
(4) Side Effects
(2) Side Effects Subs
eek.gif
Edited by BassThatHz - 2/12/13 at 12:26pm
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post #222 of 548
2/10/13 at 6:05pm
Are you actively bi-amping all those channels? Curious about all that biwiring.
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post #223 of 548
2/12/13 at 12:16pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by baniels View Post

Are you actively bi-amping all those channels? Curious about all that biwiring.

All the sub are yes, and the L+R I'm actively quad mono-blocking, but not bypassing the speaker XO-network, quad XO's aren't ideal mad.gif but still it sounds far better to me than say... using a single 2-ch amp without any pre-filtering.
The center is also monoblocked, and will be wired for bi-wire, and the speaker itself supporting it, but not utilized yet... in time I'll probably do the same with that as well (4th quarter 2013 perhaps, we'll see).
Edited by BassThatHz - 2/12/13 at 12:27pm
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post #224 of 548
2/12/13 at 7:49pm
Thread Starter 
Status Update: The romex is 40% done.

Lights:



Misc/Vacuum plugs:


These will be switched out for the dimmers:


Power holes:


Main dimmer lights switch box:


time for some Circuit Breakers:


Amp-closet light, and cooling-fan:


Amp closet light-switch and cooling-fan switch (Top):
UPS and Projector loopback (bottom):
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post #225 of 548
2/13/13 at 5:39pm
Thread Starter 
Major Status Update: Circuit Breakers are 99% done!!!! (AT LAST!!!!) smile.gif

Main line (200amps):


House (100amp) Sub-panel (old school):


Home Theater 100amp power line:


Home Theater (100amp) sub-panel:







Main Lights/Wall socket intersection point:


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post #226 of 548
2/13/13 at 7:23pm
looking amazing... i would love to buy a ticket to watch a movie in this place!!
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post #227 of 548
2/13/13 at 7:49pm
I probably speak for a lot of other guys when I say I've been following this whole thread and I just keep getting more amazed at:

1) how skilled you are and putting all this together

2) how fast it's getting done

You are at a whole 'nother level. smile.gif
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post #228 of 548
2/13/13 at 8:02pm
Thread Starter 
Status Update: The projector mount is here (wow, that was fast!).

I think it will fit in the projector hood I built, (time to go find out...)


50 of the 76 conductors will be used for my 7.10 bi-wired system. That's just to support what I have already, in-wall, with maximum flexibility.
The remaining 26 conductors is for future expansion to a full 11.10 bi-wire.
It's kind of like trying to wire 50% of a Dolby Atmos system. eek.gif It's retarded, but in a good way. (I think) biggrin.gif
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post #229 of 548
2/13/13 at 8:29pm
I would suggest using a touch of lock tight on those wall plugs. I've had instances of them coming loose from the bass in my HT and shorting out. I dabbed a small amount of LT on there and haven't had an issue yet.
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post #230 of 548
2/14/13 at 12:09am
Thread Starter 
Status Update: Milestone Achieved. All wires are now laid, both audio and electrical.

1500ft of audio cable and not a foot to spare. eek.gif (The full 11.10 bi-wired.)
My neck hurts tongue.gif









However... I still have to strip all the audio wires ON BOTH ENDS and attach them to the plates.... so it's laid... but it ain't over just yet!!!
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post #231 of 548
2/14/13 at 8:02am
Looks awesome. Question for you. It looks like you are building soffitts inside the room instead of putting the wiring inside the walls. I have 2 thoughts about this. 1) less intrusion of your sound barrier will lead to more complete sound proofing. 2) soffits will break up the sonic profile of your room leading to better sound. Are either of these reasons why you went with this setup this way? Also, since they are wood frames, are you going to stuff them with Rockwool and then cover them in fabric? Kind of a dual-purpose item then.
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post #232 of 548
2/14/13 at 8:39am
I think you have an issue with a 20A duplex receptacle connected to a 30 amp branch circuit; NEC 210.21.

Everything else looks great!

Tim
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post #233 of 548
2/14/13 at 9:20am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by djkest View Post

Looks awesome. Question for you. It looks like you are building soffitts inside the room instead of putting the wiring inside the walls. I have 2 thoughts about this. 1) less intrusion of your sound barrier will lead to more complete sound proofing. 2) soffits will break up the sonic profile of your room leading to better sound. Are either of these reasons why you went with this setup this way? Also, since they are wood frames, are you going to stuff them with Rockwool and then cover them in fabric? Kind of a dual-purpose item then.

Exactly. It also makes upgrading easier / cheaper / cleaner.
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post #234 of 548
2/14/13 at 9:28am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

I think you have an issue with a 20A duplex receptacle connected to a 30 amp branch circuit; NEC 210.21.
Everything else looks great!
Tim

Well, half of my "low-voltage" wiring will actually have high-voltage going through them; in many cases ~90-190volts!!! hehe wink.gif
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post #235 of 548
2/14/13 at 9:53am
I hope you ran CL3! CL2 is only rated up to 150v.

The problem with the receptacle is amps. Chances are you'd never have a problem, but if i is going to be inspected it shouldn't pass. You can split the receptacle by breaking the tabs between the screws and use (2) 20A CBs to power that receptacle. Then you actually have 40amps instead of 30 biggrin.gif

Tim
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post #236 of 548
2/14/13 at 3:40pm
Thread Starter 
Well it is kinda good that nema 5-30 devices won't plug into this nema 5-20 socket to be able to draw 30amps from it. wink.gif and curse those non-UL/CE certified china Lab clone amps wink.gif
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post #237 of 548
2/14/13 at 4:46pm
True, but you can connect a 15A load to each receptacle and draw 30a without tripping the OCPD. AFAIK the device is not listed to handle 30a of current as such since it should trip at 20a. This would be especially important in the case of a fault. You could draw 30a through just one of the receptacles.

You may never have an issue, but it is a violation. If you split the receptacle and use a 20a tandem breaker you will actually have more amps available and be compliant.


Tim

edited for clarity
Edited by Mr.Tim - 2/14/13 at 4:56pm
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post #238 of 548
2/15/13 at 12:46am
Thread Starter 
Crap. All the treble is blocked (like over 100db-A reduction), but you can still hear the bass between 30-50hz clear as day from 50ft away.
Oh well, I knew that was to be expected... I knew I should have built an underground bunker instead rolleyes.gif
Time to start adding more mass smile.gif

I'm using my wi-fi to upload this vid at a distance of 100ft away. So it could take a while or even disconnect. I'll leave it running over-night and hopefully it will be done in 30-60mins rolleyes.gif
So unless you live in the UK you are probably sleeping right now (or should be) and should be done by the time you read this.

Woofer Cooker action on the new line:

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post #239 of 548
2/15/13 at 12:52am
Nope. I'm awake. tongue.gif

Dude... this build is so awesome. Inspiring! I want to be your friend. biggrin.gif
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post #240 of 548
2/15/13 at 5:26am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Simonian View Post

Nope. I'm awake. tongue.gif

Dude... this build is so awesome. Inspiring! I want to be your friend. biggrin.gif

Here's what I think you should've written.

Dude... this build is so awesome. Inspiring! I'm scared to be your friend. biggrin.gif
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