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BassThatHz Theater Build - Page 23

post #661 of 726
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrapladm View Post

Have you thought about getting the XMC-1 when it comes out?

I dont know much about the Emotiva lineup but was looking at that device and was astounded by the features it has. I am not able to try out all the latest and greatest AVR's so I would just have to take a gamble. But wanted to know what you thought. PLUS I would only use this AVR for HT. Would be nice to have another setup for 2 channel listening but this will do for now.

Eventually I will probably get the XMC-1 for movie-mode. I need full 8-ch XLR, which the 105 doesn't do. The 3 Cleanboxes will do for now.

It's a processor not an AVR btw; AVR's have amplifiers in them, processors don't.

If 2-ch is all you need, just buy the 105. Which would cost less then an XMC-1.
You can attach the 105 to your existing el-chepo AVR and still get great results for movies.
post #662 of 726
Sorry I always seem to call any type of HT processor or receiver an AVR. BUT I will be powering all my speakers with external amps so I liked the processor potential of the Emotiva device. 7 channels or more is what I would need but either way I will wait to see what you think when you get one. You will definitely have one way before I will.
post #663 of 726
Thread Starter 
I finally got the inner door trim in place. No more ugly yellow foam spray.


Another $150 worth of OSB and some time, and the 3rd layer of soundproofing will be ready to start (spring time).

to-do list:
  • Theater seating
  • Building the snack bar
  • Building bar table
  • Projector hood
  • Finish building the other 5 speakers.
  • Purchasing the other 9 amps and DSP's
  • Building a micro-controller relay box.
  • Rack door
  • Amp room door
  • Rack painting and trim
  • AV plugs and trim
  • Air conditioning
  • 100% finish the 2nd layer of soundproofing
  • 3rd layer of soundproofing + paint
  • Soundproofing the attic with ventilation.
  • IR repeater system
  • Misc touchups

That's all I can think of right now, I'm sure I will dream up more things between now and then...
LOL, seems endless. redface.gif
post #664 of 726
I wish I had your energy and drive, my list of Things To Do only ever gets longer frown.gif
post #665 of 726
Thread Starter 
Here's some noise measurements of my current soundproofing (at LP unless otherwise specified).

Wall construction is:
Double 5/8's GreenGlued with soundboard, on Hat Channel, double studded, double insulated with R20 & Roxul, Double 5/8's OSB, hermetically sealed with no compromises. eek.gifbiggrin.gif

Train going by @ 1/4 mile away:

Ambient noise at outside entrance: ~55dbA, ~65dbC

Inside theater, with doors open:
~35dbA
~54dbC
Reduction: 20dbA, 11dbC

with outer door shut:
<29dbA
~50dbC
Reduction Improvement: 5dbA, 4dbC
Total Reduction: 26dbA (or better), 15dbC

with Inner door also shut:
<29dbA
<42dbC
Reduction Improvement: 0-3dbA, 8dbC
Total Reduction: 26dbA (or better), 23dbC


Normal Street traffic going by:

Ambient noise at outside entrance: 50dbA, 57dbC

Inside theater, with doors open:
~33dbA
~38dbC
Reduction: 17dbA, 19dbC

with outer door shut:
<29dbA
~38dbC
Reduction Improvement: 5dbA, 0dbC
Total Reduction: 22dbA (or better), 19dbC

with Inner door also shut:
<29dbA
<37dbC
Reduction Improvement: 0-3dbA (or better), 1dbC
Total Reduction: 23dbA (or better), 20dbC



In summary:
1) My walls usually exceed the noisefloor of the measuring gear, and equipment fans are otherwise the limiting factor.
2) You can never have too much "doorness!" biggrin.gif It's always the weakest spot.
3) Unless something LOUD is happening outside, you ain't gonna hear it, and only then it will be greatly muffled.



__________________________________________________________________

HTPC turned off, Late at night no cars outside:

[Pending]

Ambient noise at outside entrance: dbA, dbC

Inside theater, with doors open:
dbA
dbC

With outer door shut:
dbA
dbC

With Inner door also shut:
<28dbA
<36dbC
Edited by BassThatHz - 9/29/13 at 11:59pm
post #666 of 726
Thread Starter 
I'd be curious to know what numbers other people are getting with the checkmate?

My soundproofing is to the point where my 35dbA @ 1m HTPC's fans (which at the LP is 28dbA) is still enough to drive me crazy with how "LOUD" it is. smile.gif

I really need to finish the doors on that amp closet, as the amplifiers are even louder.
I want it so that only the projector can be heard (and only during movie-mode of course).

post #667 of 726
Thread Starter 
I found this article an interesting read. http://www.silentpcreview.com/article876-page1.html

Although I feel sorry for him cause he's in the noisiest possible spot for an SPL measuring lab. eek.gif Gotta do whatcha Gotta do I guess confused.gif

He only spent $4000 and look at the results he got, that's pretty darn good. He didn't even build a room-in-a-room or use GreenGlue. Not even a second layer of DW.

If his room is 11db@20hz, with an average of -10db to -20db above 100hz, then mine must be nearly as good as that... maybe more, maybe less. Hard to say.
He has 100% coverage in there, to a depth of at least 1ft, mine is only 50% & 4 inches.
His walls are just normal house walls, probably with normal ducting no doubt, and his door solution isn't half as good as mine.
I'm 100% certain that if I took my theater and lined the walls with insulation like that that it would be consistently less noisy than 11db.

Wish I had an ACO Pacific mic LOL, that would make things easier!
post #668 of 726
What a great read. I have the ACO Pacific catalog and wish I could afford their equipment.
post #669 of 726
Thread Starter 
I bridged my clone into dual 2-ohm today.

Here's what she does at somewhere around 40% output power...



It definitely doubled the power to the sub, and running this much power to a single subwoofer is not really advisable. But it is fun biggrin.gif
post #670 of 726
Is the the front baffle on the sub flexing? I know you made those extra thick too.
post #671 of 726
Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post

I bridged my clone into dual 2-ohm today.

Here's what she does at somewhere around 40% output power...

It definitely doubled the power to the sub, and running this much power to a single subwoofer is not really advisable. But it is fun biggrin.gif

What do you mean? 4ohm bridged to one sub? Or 4ohm bridged to all four subs?
post #672 of 726
Thread Starter 
The amp was definitely getting hotter than 4-ohm unbridged, I have it on a 30amp socket but I didn't drive the amp to full power either, so...

You would definitely have to wire 4 LMS's into a single 4-ohm load to test a bridged clone's full power limits. It's definitely too much power to a single LMS to handle safely.
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

What do you mean? 4ohm bridged to one sub? Or 4ohm bridged to all four subs?

4ohm bridged into one sub.
post #673 of 726
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pain Infliction View Post

Is the the front baffle on the sub flexing? I know you made those extra thick too.

The whole subwoofer is rocking back and forth, even though the sub weighs more than 110lbs.
The baffle is 2.25 inches thick and only 5 inches at the widest spot, so it ain't flexing anytime soon...

You're making me want to build a quad set of dual opposed LMS's, I had given the idea a consideration already smile.gif
post #674 of 726
Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post

The amp was definitely getting hotter than 4-ohm unbridged, I have it on a 30amp socket but I didn't drive the amp to full power either, so...

You would definitely have to wire 4 LMS's into a single 4-ohm load to test a bridged clone's full power limits. It's definitely too much power to a single LMS to handle safely.
4ohm bridged into one sub.

Let us know if you do any further testing into 4ohm bridged. It was very interesting hearing Bosso's stance on the subject in the Clone thread. Very interested in hearing other Clone owners thoughts after some extensive 4ohm bridged testing at/near the amps limits.
post #675 of 726
Thread Starter 
I finally purchased this today. Should be here in about a week.
Can't wait! It will be good to have this protecting my gear, as right now I don't have any pure-sine protection in the event of power loss.

I wonder if it will work okay with the PS PPP? That thing is very sensitive to line-distortion so if the battery mode ain't clean it will cut the power off. (Guess I'll find out soon enough...)

OR2200PFCRT2U
http://www.cyberpowersystems.com/products/ups-systems/pfc-sinewave-series/OR2200PFCRT2U.html

It's worth the cost because it is protecting about $8000 worth of low-wattage AV gear in my rack.
The amps will remain plugged directly into the wall.
Edited by BassThatHz - 10/11/13 at 9:45am
post #676 of 726
Thread Starter 
Since this thing is a data center product, the coolest feature is that I can monitor the weather from work and then remote-in and disconnect half of my rack from the grid.
That is not something I have been able to do previously.

That's all out-of-the-box functionality.

Over the winter time, I will also be coding my own power relay controller system to fully toggle all components from grid power via the internet. That will probably cost me $300 in hardware for up to 16 independent sockets.
It will also be accessible from my LAN (of course), so that I can automate my rack from a wireless tablet or smartphone anywhere on the planet. (With encryption and authentication of course.)
post #677 of 726
Get a weather radio that has a trigger output, then you can fully automate your weather shutdown. Certain NOAA radios have selectable filters for event types. This would be helpful in a situations where your are "away" at certain facilities and can't access your system, or if you lose IP connectivity at your house while you are away.
post #678 of 726
Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post

I do have cloth blackout curtains from the windows in my previous room, and I was thinking of reusing those for the front where the screen luminescence would be at maximum. All my acoustical panels are black foam, so that helps absorb light too. But I have thought about some sort of black cloth wall-covering.
I had normal white walls before, so anything would be an improvement over that... Here is what I'm migrating away from:



LOL... Just finished pg. two. You are a nut! tongue.gif I can't wait to read the following pages.........
post #679 of 726
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoFinWiley View Post

Get a weather radio that has a trigger output, then you can fully automate your weather shutdown.
Now you are just being... silly... LOL tongue.gif
post #680 of 726
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post

Ok the test numbers are in, here's what I got.

The wall is roughly 11.9 inches thick right now, as follows:
Layer #1: RIR + Rox SS + HC + single 5/8's Type X (Single Door, No mudding/taping/paint, No GreenGlue, No second layer)

Ambient Noisefloor inside is <27db-A, and Ambient Noisefloor outside is ~37db-A.
With full bandwidth radio music at 90db-A inside, I got ~50db-A outside. An increase of 13db-A and a reduction of 40db-A. (This was taken from within a few feet of all 3 sides of the theater and the main entrance.)
The door was the weakest spot with an increase of 22db-A and a reduction of 31db-A
The accuracy of my test method is approximately: +-4db depending on uncontrolled conditions.

Not too shabby for the first layer.

Now I will add the GreenGlue and second layer of 5/8's Type X... and we will see what we get biggrin.gif

So I finally got around to retesting this with 90db-A and 95db-C of fullbandwidth pinknoise inside.
Ambient noise outside was 36db-A, and 53db-C.

However, not only do I have the GG and second layer of DW added, I also have a second layer of OSB on the outside so take that into consideration.


I got 38db-A outside; that's a 52db-A reduction in noise and an increase of only 2db-A. Which is a 20db-A improvement with the GG/DW/OSB added. An nearly inaudible increase. and that's a foot away from the door!
It was 70db-C outside so that's 25db-C of fullbandwidth noise-reduction, and an increase of 17db-C (at the door again, which is the weakest spot).

I also tried shaped-noise, -3db @ 100hz, but the house next door was mowing grass so I couldn't get an accurate measurement but it was 4db better even with his noise added. So (at least) 6db of my noise is coming from frequencies below 100hz.

I also tried music at 100db-C, and got 72db at the outside door with his mowing noise added (which has louder than my system), which is still 8db better than before even with the mowing noise removed.

I was only raising the ambient 3db-C at the property line with 100db-C of music before, so it could only be even lower now, so only at the highest levels of playback would sound escaping be an issue.
I'll have to try that measurement once the mowing stops.
post #681 of 726
Thread Starter 
It should be here by Thursday...


Which reminds me... I have to take the old batteries out of my old units and buy new ones (they died).
post #682 of 726
Thread Starter 
2 kilovolt amps in da house... Now let's see what she can do!

8 Nema 20 sockets with 3 breakers


LCD and power button


10ft 20amp cable


She is heavy. All that lead inside.



Now let's plug in some gear....
Edited by BassThatHz - 10/22/13 at 5:01pm
post #683 of 726
Thread Starter 
37 minutes. This is with everything except the projector powered up.

and the good news is that it works with the PS PPP, the UPS only outputs 0.9% more distortion that the line at 300-400watts RMS; according to my PS PPP which is 4% THD; and normally 3.1% THD; which the PPP lowers to below 0.8% THD.

The bad news is this UPS only has line boosting , not bucking. Luckily my PPP has both so it's no biggie.

I have it set to high sensitivity: 90 to 136 volt operating range; anything below or above that the UPS will step in and do it's thing.



When it activates the fan kicks on and you can hear a surge of power being drawn from the batteries, and the alarm sounds.
post #684 of 726
Thread Starter 
With the projector added it drops to 22 minutes. But it takes far less than 5 minutes to shutdown so...

post #685 of 726
Thread Starter 
There we go, got it all wired into the rack.

There's 110lbs on that bottom shelf. That's my heaviest row. eek.gif

post #686 of 726
Thread Starter 
Here it is in action. This is a Test-Load of roughly 300-400 watts RMS.



and thanks to the PPP the output power is still 2.6% cleaner than if you plugged the gear directly into "the grid" as per a normal human. biggrin.gif

25% load and 35 minutes.
post #687 of 726
Thread Starter 
Here is the loudest I've had my SEOS's playing to-date.

This is painfully loud. I think I lost some hearing on this one, no joke. wink.gif

Rusko - Everyday (Netsky Remix)

This treble-SPL is where my ears "tap-out", it's just too much sizzle for a room this size (need a barn or a stadium wink.gif ).
I was somewhere between -15 to -30db away from clipping my 10,600watt tweeter-amps on this one.


Here's Bassotronics - Just Bass. This has just as much bass, but it is a deeper bass (like 30hz or something).
post #688 of 726
Why don't you wear ear protection when you're conducting max spl tests? You'll eventually regret it... for sure. What's the point of the super high SPL's? The good thing about high efficiency speakers is that you can get the full texture of the musical performance without destroying your hearing. Loss of hearing is almost as socially debilitating as loss of eyesight and research has shown that it puts you at greater risk of dementia as the years pass by. Nobody's invincible.
post #689 of 726
Thread Starter 
I got an email from VISA today saying I was approved for a Visa Infinite card. So I phoned them up and now I have one.

The no-limit is really scary though, you can easily get yourself into trouble!
You have to have a wise head on your shoulders and no addiction to snort. This round of hookers and blow is on me though! hehe biggrin.gif

The good news is that I'll save double the rewards and cash back per year compared to the platinum card I had previously.

Here's what their website says about some of the features: Automatic flight upgrades, VIP rooms, concierge, blaa blaa blaa. Can't see my self using any of these to be honest, but it's nice to know they're there when I need them.





I guess they noticed that I had purchased $60,000 worth of theater junk on my credit card this year and then paid it off, and since I have a superb credit score, I guess their computer put two and two together (?)

Or perhaps they are just "attempting" to suck more money from me (higher annual fees), ah... but I keep a zero-balance and work the rewards system against them, so it's just more free money to me. wink.gif

http://visainfinitecard.com/en/sitewide/aboutinfinite.jsp
Edited by BassThatHz - 11/22/13 at 1:10am
post #690 of 726
Congrats man! The Visa Infinite is probably the single most significant tweak you could have done to improve your theater.

It's importance can not be stressed enough.
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