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BassThatHz Theater Build - Page 4

post #91 of 548
12/15/12 at 9:47pm
Thread Starter 
Or perhaps something more American, but still far too esoteric for Ryan Seacrest's consideration. biggrin.gif
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post #92 of 548
12/16/12 at 4:21pm
Thread Starter 
Status Update: Roofing is done, 1100lbs worth.



I have to redo all the siding, but I'll worry about that some other time...
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post #93 of 548
12/17/12 at 4:39pm
subscribed to this!!!!!! this looks pretty epic
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post #94 of 548
12/17/12 at 11:31pm
Thread Starter 
Massive Update: 1200sq-ft of Roxul SS going up, and the door is now installed.
I also bought 10 gallons of GG, and 75 hat channels, and 3 Bags of R20, and 80 sheets of 5/8's, and 40 sheets of soundboard and the few other nick-naks.

Which completes 97% of all building supply purchases.
As of right now, I've spent $17000 on just constructing the building.

I still have to fund for seating and siding; and then a few other smaller/cheaper things.

At this point I'm 100% done insulating, and 10% done applying the sound-proofing materials.

Each bag does 60 sq-ft, so picture 20 bags of this stuff to grasp the magnitude of how much sound-blocking rock-fiber is being added into this beast of a structure.
This stuff must be 5 times heavier than regular insulation, it's dense stuff.


R20 + Roxul SS


Main door is Installed:



Man if this doesn't give me at least half-decent sound-proofing... then I give up! biggrin.gif
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post #95 of 548
12/18/12 at 4:50am
What are you using for seals around the doors? That is one place that sound will escape. Remember you are only as strong as your weakest link.
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post #96 of 548
12/18/12 at 4:55am
Good luck with all....you seem to be working hard and hope all goes your way.

One prediction from me:
You can scream all day in that room and nobody will hear you on the other side = That`s a good thing
As soon as you play a bass heavy music and that at low volume you`ll be disappointed = That`s not a good thing

The problem is the bass will travel through the walls if you do hat channel, GG and triple layer DW. IT won't stop LF.

With the amount of subs you have you would`ve been better off building a bunker with 10" of cement from top to bottom.
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post #97 of 548
12/18/12 at 5:33am
Maybe you can have a heavy sound dampening curtain that you can pull in front of the door on the inside.... a curtain full of sand or fiber.
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post #98 of 548
12/18/12 at 5:38am
Quote:
Originally Posted by fschris View Post

Maybe you can have a heavy sound dampening curtain that you can pull in front of the door on the inside.... a curtain full of sand or fiber.

Won't work. You need to seal the room.
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post #99 of 548
12/18/12 at 10:34am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JapanDave View Post

What are you using for seals around the doors? That is one place that sound will escape. Remember you are only as strong as your weakest link.

There are only three weak spots in the design, the doors, the airflow in the attic, and the air condition system.

As for the enterance:
Just weather stripping; one for the external door and another for the internal room, seperated by 4 feet of air and decoupled (room-in-room design), both are actually metal external doors.

So for the enterance-walls, the sound will have to go through two layers of 5/8's with GreenGlue, a layer of soundboard, a hat channel, a layer of roxul, another hat channel, another two layers of 5/8's with GreenGlue, a layer of soundboard, 4 feet of air space, and then another two layers of 5/8's with GreenGlue, a layer of soundboard, a hat channel, a layer of roxul, a layer of R20 and then 3/4" OSB.

OR... it could just going through one door, 4ft of air, and then the other door wink.gif So definately the weaker spot.
If it doesn't work, I'll have to beef them up even further.

note: The neighbors are on all sides, between 60-100ft away.

As for the attic flow:
Not many options there, more layers of Roxul and OSB I guess, you need some level of airflow.

AC:
I haven't come up with an air condition system-design yet, more research is needed, but I do have "some" ideas for it to make it as sound-proof as possible.
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post #100 of 548
12/18/12 at 10:57am
Awesome stuff here! BTW, if it were me I would have just made a wall of subs on the front stage and called it a day. Trust me, no need for nearfield or midwall placements because in a room like that and subs stacked up front going across as well will give you a smooth response. Keep it going, the only thing I don't like about my theater is that it is connected to my house, I am jealous! cool.gif

Hey, do you know where I can get that first song from the orchestra video? I really need to play that at reference with a good recording. I love that stuff since this is where musical scores come from. First thing I thought of was the old movie Excalibur.
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post #101 of 548
12/18/12 at 11:16am
BTH,

The build is coming along nicely -- having a dedicated building for sound is a cool idea!

Having checked out many of your vids and seeing you're so hardcore in the bass department and are somewhat of an SPL freak, I ask you this:

When are you going to get some real LCR's to replace those little baby Nautilus 803's??? tongue.gif
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post #102 of 548
12/18/12 at 4:13pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron Smith View Post

BTH,
The build is coming along nicely -- having a dedicated building for sound is a cool idea!
Having checked out many of your vids and seeing you're so hardcore in the bass department and are somewhat of an SPL freak, I ask you this:
When are you going to get some real LCR's to replace those little baby Nautilus 803's??? tongue.gif

My system draws roughly 75amps at 120volts in movie-mode, not including the projector, which works out to be 9,000watts RMS of real power (some of that gets converted to heat of course).
This building has 100amps at 240volts, which is 24,000watts RMS of usable power.

When they can no longer keep up with the output of all my subs, and not a moment sooner. wink.gif
They have no problems in keeping up... thus far.

My system gets loud enough that I can't carry a conversation with someone sitting right next to me screaming into my face, with no audible distortion. I normally run them in this "8400watts" mode by the way. It's actually a bit comical to see people attempt a conversation with the puzzled look on their face when realize they have to scream to hear their own voice biggrin.gif

The amps just idle along never exceeding 1200watts from what I can figure.

Now you have to wonder how loudly you guys listen to treble at? eek.gif
Edited by BassThatHz - 12/18/12 at 4:59pm
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post #103 of 548
12/18/12 at 4:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post

When they can no longer keep up with the output of all my subs, and not a moment sooner. wink.gif
They have no problems in keeping up... thus far.

Yeah, I figured as much. I know they are pretty nice sounding speakers; just seems that with you posting all of the "Whatever song with 30,000 watts' type vids that you would have high-output LCR's to go with your gaggle of capable subs. smile.gif I ran the 803's numbers in an SPL calculator and from 12' away and within 2-4' of a wall, they are projected to do 108.7 dB (90 dB sens./250 power handling). That is probably on the upper end of what they can do, but yes, as you allude to, that will make your ears burn after a while. After reading the SPL poll we just had in another thread, I sat down and listened to my Yorkville Unitys at 100-103 dB cont. for a couple minutes. Alrighty then..."can you hear me now?"! Scary thing is when they are installed in my room (baffle wall within 18" of a corner) they are projected to do 125.7 dB with their RMS rating of 1000 watts. I am going to hold them to 400 watts though, so a pair will only be able to hit 121.8. smile.gif
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post #104 of 548
12/18/12 at 5:02pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron Smith View Post

Yeah, I figured as much. I know they are pretty nice sounding speakers; just seems that with you posting all of the "Whatever song with 30,000 watts' type vids that you would have high-output LCR's to go with your gaggle of capable subs. smile.gif I ran the 803's numbers in an SPL calculator and from 12' away and within 2-4' of a wall, they are projected to do 108.7 dB (90 dB sens./250 power handling). That is probably on the upper end of what they can do, but yes, as you allude to, that will make your ears burn after a while. After reading the SPL poll we just had in another thread, I sat down and listened to my Yorkville Unitys at 100-103 dB cont. for a couple minutes. Alrighty then..."can you hear me now?"! Scary thing is when they are installed in my room (baffle wall within 18" of a corner) they are projected to do 125.7 dB with their RMS rating of 1000 watts. I am going to hold them to 400 watts though, so a pair will only be able to hit 121.8. smile.gif

With 120db of bass, I usually pump out 90-100db of treble; anymore treble than that and the sound just becomes unrealistic in scale. But those mains aren't designed for entertaining rock concert goers in 2PI space at deafening levels.
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post #105 of 548
12/18/12 at 9:25pm
Thread Starter 
Status Update: 50% of the Marijuana is up. tongue.gif

This is from inside the amp closet, looking at the front left:
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post #106 of 548
12/18/12 at 9:47pm
Looks like there is enough to share.

Don't hold out on us....ahem, I mean me. tongue.gif
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post #107 of 548
12/18/12 at 10:34pm
The funny thing is most movies are 85-90 dBs on the average and will only peak at 105 dBs at reference. So yeah, playing music at 105 dBs would be much louder and more brutal than a movie at reference.
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post #108 of 548
12/18/12 at 10:52pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post

Or perhaps something more American, but still far too esoteric for Ryan Seacrest's consideration. biggrin.gif
Need more cowbell!!!
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post #109 of 548
12/19/12 at 7:51am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JapanDave View Post

Need more cowbell!!!

Indeed, MORE COWBELL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! biggrin.gif
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post #110 of 548
12/19/12 at 9:56pm
Thread Starter 
Status Update: Main supply drop is here. I have 7300sqft of material in my theater room now. eek.gif
Walls are 99% roxuled at this point. Just the ceiling remains, and a few smaller spots here and there.

Version 1 of the wall will be:
  • Total wall thickness is ~12 inches: 1.7" of DW/SB, 0.6" of RC/Air, 3" of Roxul SS, 2" of air, 4" of R20, 0.75" of OSB. (Building wrap and siding not included.)

Front Right side of theater and DW.


Track-light dimmer switches box.


100amp wire, it's "at least" 4-gauge thick.


Pipe for: Cable, Internet, Phone.


Resilient channels


Soundboard


360 view:
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post #111 of 548
12/19/12 at 10:04pm
100 amp wire!eek.gif

Coming along nicely. Actually, very fast for someone with a full time job!cool.gif
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post #112 of 548
12/19/12 at 10:06pm
Holy crap. I love watching "proper" builds come together. Awesome job.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JapanDave View Post

100 amp wire!eek.gif
Coming along nicely. Actually, very fast for someone with a full time job!cool.gif

Tell me about it. I've been working on my theater face lift for a year now. I've spend every spare minute down there and it just seems like I can't get anything accomplished.
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post #113 of 548
12/19/12 at 10:45pm
Thread Starter 
Check this out, I'm getting 8-12db of noise reduction from my walls already!!! smile.gif

Here ambient outside noise on Wed Night 10pm:


The noise is reduced to the CM-140's lower limit, it's offical rated to 32db, this is 5db below that!!!
Just my coat arm moving makes 33db!!!

I think this is actually nearer to 0db here, I need a better SPL meter to read the rooms lower limit already. eek:



Can you hear the dog bark at 23s and the leaves rustling around in the background?
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post #114 of 548
12/21/12 at 6:38pm
Thread Starter 
Status Update: 10 gallons of GreenGlue arrived today.
Now I can proceed with making the walls.

Not sure how good this stuff actually is, but it's worth a try I suppose... hopefully I didn't get sucked into buying some magic beans?

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post #115 of 548
12/22/12 at 7:21am
Never applied the stuff, but there's a huge community of happy builds/users.

I'm sure there's some "best practices" involved in optimizing the end results. I'm guessing the floating edges all need total iso from the adjacent non-floating pieces/structure. Not sure if theres other thickness, spacing etc., ideas that are best, and whether or not these tips are perfectly in line with mfrs guidelines or not, just conjecture. I've never really paid close attention to these GG aspects in other threads.

Following along, best of luck moving forward.

Merry Christmas
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post #116 of 548
12/22/12 at 10:19am
Disclaimer... I have never used GG before, or know of the best practices, but I would imagine that you would have to also seal the corner joints with an elastomeric caulking of some kind. I would probably use something like Sikaflex 221. Keep in mind that on the second layer of drywall, you want to use enough screws to clamp the sheets together, then remove them after the GG sets up.

Also if using the resilient channel strips, make sure that the screws are only long enough to get into the channel.... if you use longer ones, they may go through the channel into the stud, which defeats the purpose of using them in the first place.
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post #117 of 548
12/22/12 at 11:09am
Quote:
Originally Posted by michael hurd View Post

Keep in mind that on the second layer of drywall, you want to use enough screws to clamp the sheets together, then remove them after the GG sets up.
Wrong, wrong, wrong. Despite the name Green Glue is not an adhesive or a glue. You don't remove the screws. It's a viscoelastomeric damping material.
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post #118 of 548
12/22/12 at 11:36am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post

Wrong, wrong, wrong. Despite the name Green Glue is not an adhesive or a glue. You don't remove the screws. It's a viscoelastomeric damping material.

Yup. Unless you get it on your clothes, then it might as well be glue, lol.
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post #119 of 548
12/22/12 at 5:15pm
Thread Starter 
They say it absorbs ~10db from 300hz and beyond and UP TO 1-6db below that; I'll take every db I can get...
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post #120 of 548
12/26/12 at 1:46am
Thread Starter 
Status Update: I'm 100% done roxuling the walls and 90% done roxuling the ceiling. Yeah SLOW I know, I've been slacking off a bit.

Now this test takes a seriously low noisefloor to be able to record.
A Drop-Test of: a small piece of insulation, a staple, a Screw. Each one being progressively louder of course...



It's hard to believe that this is the noisefloor before I add another 7300lbs of soundproofing material to the walls. eek.gif
In case your wondering, I purchased enough to make a dual layer of 1-hour fire-resistant drywall, the same type that you should find in your furnace room.

It will be a reasonably fire-resistant structure, far exceeding most "normal" homes at least; but it's really itchy stuff and difficult to work with too mad.gif



Installing the hat channels is the next step of course.
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