110" DIY Spandex AT Screen

Looks nice. As soon as i can more of basement construction done I will begin working on this project. as well. I have a few questions for you:

1. So is the frame 110" or is the viewing area after trim 110"?

2. How are you planning to mount to the wall? My plan is to make a french cleat out of 2X4 mounted to the 2 middle supports.

3. Are you concerned about the middle frame supports showing through the spandex?

Thanks,

Jason

Have any photos with the screen tight on?

What are you using for your black at fabric?

Can you post a link on how this works. Do you apply snaps to the spandex?

He wants to know how the Spandex is attached to the "tight screen caps". Seems he thinks that some kind of Male/Female snap protocol is utilized.

I'm certain that it's a case of using a Round Rubber Strip inserted into a channel to secure the material, along the same lines as what is used when "re-screening" a Window Screen Frame.

I'm a little surprised your still undecided as to which material serves best as the "Top Layer". The Silver offers the best, most versatile performance, especially if the PJ in use has 1800+ lumen to work with. That has been pretty thoroughly ascertained at this point. Even if you have a PJ like a Epson 6010 or Panny 8000 with 200K to 500K Contrast going for it, the use of the Silver would both assure a better, more "contrasty" image under all conditions.

But hey.....nothing beats being sure than proving something to one's own satisfaction, so have a go at it and let the yearning masses know. .

BTW, I'm pretty sure that you will have no "bleed through visual presence" of the inside vertical supports, but painting them White (...or silver...) will go a long way toward assuring that you don't. What is less than certain is as to if you might see any rise along the length of those vertical supports braces. It doesn't take much "rise" at any point to show up as a "Bump" or ridge if there is even a fractional difference in extra height between the vertical supports and the Outside Frame. Even the slightest "twist' down the road will show up as a vertical line. It is a shame though you didn't rout or chisel out a recess for the "Leg" of the center "T's" to rest in. All it would take is a recess as deep as the actual Hardware is thick to keep any possibility of there being any "surface transfer' of the wood. In fact, I'd say that is more of a concern than is as to if you get any visual Bleed through.

Harrumph !



Well I've often found that many people who claim to not be perfectionist in nature complain the most bitterly when things are not what they expected them to be. Especially if someone else can be pointed to as to being the blame for their disappointment.

Go figure.

Just let you have to deal with a very obvious vertical line running through your image and I bet your standards will ramp up a bit.


BTW... 900 "calibrated" Lumens is a "LOT" of lumen output by anyone's method of measurement. The thing is....you would not be using REC 709 calibration on a Silver Gray screen.
A White surface? Absolutely.

Thanks, I haven't seen that product before. I rip a 1/8th dado into the back of the screen frame on the table saw, then apply fabric using the "round rubber strip" with a spline roller. I find that some fabric is quite slippery for my method.

i think other threads i read people going with 3 yards. Im going for a 100-106 and probably will order 3 yards, but if 2 is plenty by those in the know i will go less.

Always better to have more than enough than too little, as so far no one has discovered a way to "grow" additional Spandex.

Getting the degree of needed stretch out of Spandex still has limitations.

Where did you buy your screen track? Seems like this is a very cost effective screen even if you don't want AT.

My local Home Depot store stocks the track.