Originally Posted by Gary Gleave
Can you post a link on how this works. Do you apply snaps to the spandex?[
Originally Posted by smokarz
I am not sure what you're asking
He wants to know how the Spandex is attached to the "tight screen caps". Seems he thinks that some kind of Male/Female snap protocol is utilized.
I'm certain that it's a case of using a Round Rubber Strip inserted into a channel to secure the material, along the same lines as what is used when "re-screening" a Window Screen Frame.
I'm a little surprised your still undecided as to which material serves best as the "Top Layer". The Silver offers the best, most versatile performance, especially if the PJ in use has 1800+ lumen to work with. That has been pretty thoroughly ascertained at this point. Even if you have a PJ like a Epson 6010 or Panny 8000 with 200K to 500K Contrast going for it, the use of the Silver would both assure a better, more "contrasty" image under all conditions.
But hey.....nothing beats being sure than proving something to one's own satisfaction, so have a go at it and let the yearning masses know.
BTW, I'm pretty sure that you will have no "bleed through visual presence" of the inside vertical supports, but painting them White (...or silver...) will go a long way toward assuring that you don't. What is less than certain is as to if you might see any rise along the length of those vertical supports braces. It doesn't take much "rise" at any point to show up as a "Bump" or ridge if there is even a fractional difference in extra height between the vertical supports and the Outside Frame. Even the slightest "twist' down the road will show up as a vertical line. It is a shame though you didn't rout or chisel out a recess for the "Leg" of the center "T's" to rest in. All it would take is a recess as deep as the actual Hardware is thick to keep any possibility of there being any "surface transfer' of the wood. In fact, I'd say that is more of a concern than is as to if you get any visual Bleed through.