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110" DIY Spandex AT Screen - Page 12

post #331 of 544
Quote:
Originally Posted by PixelPusher View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by newavsmember View Post

I was asking for the screen track at Home depot and Lowe's but they didn't have any. Can you please send a link to home depot/lowes online or give the SKU number that I can ask at local store? Or if you know any other places where this can be bought, please let me know.

Here's what you need:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_21532-958-BASE18_0__?productId=3024709&Ntt=screen+tight+strip&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dscreen%2Btight%2Bstrip&facetInfo=

Do NOT buy this at Lowe's because I almost made the same mistake. HomeDepot.com has it for about half the price and shipping was free when I ordered.
post #332 of 544
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeremyhelling View Post

Do NOT buy this at Lowe's because I almost made the same mistake. HomeDepot.com has it for about half the price and shipping was free when I ordered.

Seriously, your comment cannot be further from the truth...

Lowes: $3.66 -

http://www.lowes.com/pd_21532-958-BASE18_0__?productId=3024709&Ntt=screen+tight+strip&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dscreen%2Btight%2Bstrip&facetInfo=

And they have free shipping on orders over $49 - but I like going to Home Improvement stores... so I bought mine locally.

[URL=http://And they have free shipping on orders over $49]And they have free shipping on orders over $49[/URL]


Home Depot: $3.77

http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100065822?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=screen+tight&storeId=10051&N=5yc1v&R=100065822#.UV1uHhymh_w

They have free shipping too.
post #333 of 544
Quote:
Originally Posted by PixelPusher View Post

Seriously, your comment cannot be further from the truth...

Lowes: $3.66 -

http://www.lowes.com/pd_21532-958-BASE18_0__?productId=3024709&Ntt=screen+tight+strip&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dscreen%2Btight%2Bstrip&facetInfo=

And they have free shipping on orders over $49 - but I like going to Home Improvement stores... so I bought mine locally.

[URL=http://And they have free shipping on orders over $49]And they have free shipping on orders over $49[/URL]

Pixel, for me Lowes shows price of 9.26 for 8 feet( including your link) where as Home Depot shows for 3.75 for the same.
post #334 of 544
Quote:
Originally Posted by PixelPusher View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeremyhelling View Post

Do NOT buy this at Lowe's because I almost made the same mistake. HomeDepot.com has it for about half the price and shipping was free when I ordered.

Seriously, your comment cannot be further from the truth...

Lowes: $3.66 -

http://www.lowes.com/pd_21532-958-BASE18_0__?productId=3024709&Ntt=screen+tight+strip&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dscreen%2Btight%2Bstrip&facetInfo=

And they have free shipping on orders over $49 - but I like going to Home Improvement stores... so I bought mine locally.

[URL=http://And they have free shipping on orders over $49]And they have free shipping on orders over $49[/URL]


Home Depot: $3.77

http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100065822?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=screen+tight&storeId=10051&N=5yc1v&R=100065822#.UV1uHhymh_w

They have free shipping too.

Uhmmm.... no. I'm not wrong and I'm not a liar.

From your link.... $9.26

post #335 of 544
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeremyhelling View Post

Uhmmm.... no. I'm not wrong and I'm not a liar.

From your link.... $9.26


You're both right...

Lowes web site (like a lot of web sites) bases price on location. Change your home store and you'll get a different price.

For me, $3.66 in Mundelein, IL. I change the location to Loveland, CO and the price goes up to $9.26.
post #336 of 544
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeremyhelling View Post

Uhmmm.... no. I'm not wrong and I'm not a liar.

From your link.... $9.26



Please accept my apology,

I was going off of my local information and had no idea that Lowe's was price gouging people in the great state of Colorado. The real irony of all this is that I bought my screen tight at Home Depot, they are about 5 miles closer to my home than the nearest Lowe's. Figured the cost of time and gas offset the price per piece.

LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01
post #337 of 544
Quote:
Originally Posted by PixelPusher View Post

Please accept my apology

No blood. No foul.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PixelPusher View Post

I was going off of my local information and had no idea that Lowe's was price gouging people in the great state of Colorado.

I'm sure some legislator entrusted with making us all safe at all costs (to include our liberties) has decided that these are 'high capacity' screen 'clips' and has enacted a 100% tax. You know.... for the children.
post #338 of 544
Theater room at 80% complete




post #339 of 544
Thread Starter 
Very nice. How big is that screen?
post #340 of 544
115"
post #341 of 544
For anyone with a similar frame as the original post, did you paint your frame behind the spandex? I watched my first movie (prometheus) yesterday on my new screen and there was one scene where the two vertical boards were very noticeable, seemingly because of the fact that they were a solid object rather than their actual colour. Just curious if painting will make enough of a difference to justify removing the spandex. Thanks.
post #342 of 544
Quote:
Originally Posted by brendelac View Post

For anyone with a similar frame as the original post, did you paint your frame behind the spandex? I watched my first movie (prometheus) yesterday on my new screen and there was one scene where the two vertical boards were very noticeable, seemingly because of the fact that they were a solid object rather than their actual colour. Just curious if painting will make enough of a difference to justify removing the spandex. Thanks.

No paint here, and no issues with the frame showing. Are you sure you didn't stretch your spandex too tight? Is it possibly the light is bouncing off the back wall and you are seeing shadows? Did you use 'stand off' molding, or is the spandex directly touching the wood frame?
post #343 of 544
Quote:
Originally Posted by BartMan01 View Post

No paint here, and no issues with the frame showing. Are you sure you didn't stretch your spandex too tight? Is it possibly the light is bouncing off the back wall and you are seeing shadows? Did you use 'stand off' molding, or is the spandex directly touching the wood frame?
I don't think it's too tight. I did it alone and there is still a lot of stretch to it when I press on an open area. It's definitely not a shadow as I can see the details in the wood. I'm not sure what you mean by 'stand off' molding, but yes the spandex is touching the wood frame - is there a way to avoid that?
post #344 of 544
Quote:
Originally Posted by brendelac View Post

I'm not sure what you mean by 'stand off' molding, but yes the spandex is touching the wood frame - is there a way to avoid that?

Look at post 221 for an example (http://www.avsforum.com/t/1436181/110-diy-spandex-at-screen/210#post_22927743

The idea is to use edge molding of some type, so the spandex only touches a small piece at the edge.

What spandex did you use, and how many layers?
post #345 of 544
For two layer screen using screen tight system, is there any difficulty in getting both layers flat and evenly stretched without creases? I don't see how its possible to do one layer at a time so is it pretty straightforward getting both layers installed over the frame at the same time? Thanks to everyone for the great pics
post #346 of 544
Quote:
Originally Posted by BartMan01 View Post

Look at post 221 for an example (http://www.avsforum.com/t/1436181/110-diy-spandex-at-screen/210#post_22927743

The idea is to use edge molding of some type, so the spandex only touches a small piece at the edge.

What spandex did you use, and how many layers?
I think I see what you're referring to. Neat idea (surprised that this is the first I've heard of it considering the amount of pre-reading I did), but how does the velvet wrapped border trim work with this? Seems to me that fastening the border trim to the 1x4 would defeat the purpose of the edge molding because it would push the spandex back in contact with the 1x4 frame.

I used two layers of spandex - grey over white and it was purchased from Fabricland in Canada. I'll see if I can come up with the exact name of the stuff... EDIT: HERE it is.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RTK View Post

For two layer screen using screen tight system, is there any difficulty in getting both layers flat and evenly stretched without creases? I don't see how its possible to do one layer at a time so is it pretty straightforward getting both layers installed over the frame at the same time? Thanks to everyone for the great pics
It was pretty straight forward and there were no creases and I don't think it's too much of a worry that both layers have the exact same amount of stretch. One layer at a time is simple - the first layer is fastened to the outter channel on the screen tight which leaves the inner channel exposed to attach the second layer.
Edited by brendelac - 5/19/13 at 12:17pm
post #347 of 544
argh, somehow i overlooked the screen tight has dual channel one for each layer so now it makes more sense. I too am wondering how to best attach a velvet wrapped frame. Prior pictures nicely show a what looks like quarter round moulding holding the screen off the frame so I'm just wondering how to best attach an outer black frame. I'm thinking maybe something wider than quarter round might allow for a velvet frame to slightly overlap the screen material and avoid a gap?
post #348 of 544
Quote:
Originally Posted by RTK View Post

argh, somehow i overlooked the screen tight has dual channel one for each layer so now it makes more sense. I too am wondering how to best attach a velvet wrapped frame. Prior pictures nicely show a what looks like quarter round moulding holding the screen off the frame so I'm just wondering how to best attach an outer black frame. I'm thinking maybe something wider than quarter round might allow for a velvet frame to slightly overlap the screen material and avoid a gap?
You probably could attach both layers into a single screen tight channel. I considered trying it, but I figured I just do things by the book.

On a side note, I wonder why the screen tight does have 2 channels. I don't think I've ever seen a screen door or window with 2 layers of screen and why would it ever be necessary?
post #349 of 544
Quote:
Originally Posted by brendelac View Post

On a side note, I wonder why the screen tight does have 2 channels. I don't think I've ever seen a screen door or window with 2 layers of screen and why would it ever be necessary?

Ever see a screened in porch. There are multiple open sections that need to be screened in. Screen tight goes between two openings and one channel is for one side, the other channel is for the other side.
post #350 of 544
Still curious how the edge molding works with the border molding... anyone care to explain, please?
post #351 of 544
I used no molding, no paint, two layers of Moeskin and zero frame bleed-through.
post #352 of 544
Strange. The only thing that I can think of that would work for me (aside from the possibility of painting the the vertical frame boards which may or may not solve the problem) is to add a second layer of 1x4 around the perimeter of the frame and maybe shave it down to 3.25" which is the same size as the border molding.
Quote:
$8.25 at Home Depot in Canada frown.gif
Edited by brendelac - 5/20/13 at 6:46pm
post #353 of 544
Place the Inside Verticals Struts / T-Brackets on the rear of the Frame on top of 1/8" or 1/4" Plywood shims glued into place.on the exterior frame. That will recess the verticals back from the Spandex.

You should not have to paint the wood, but it won't hurt to do so. Don't overstretch the Spandex, as that is perhaps the second most common cause of "bleed through" next to the struts actually touching the material.
post #354 of 544
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Place the Inside Verticals Struts / T-Brackets on the rear of the Frame on top of 1/8" or 1/4" Plywood shims glued into place.on the exterior frame. That will recess the verticals back from the Spandex.

You should not have to paint the wood, but it won't hurt to do so. Don't overstretch the Spandex, as that is perhaps the second most common cause of "bleed through" next to the struts actually touching the material.
I have no idea if my spandex is overstretched. This is my first screen. Seems to me like there is plenty of slack still...
post #355 of 544
As Spandexworld seems to be indefinitely out of Light Silver Milliskin Matte, has anyone tried or have an opinion of using regular Silver Miliskin Matte or even Black Milliskin Matte for backing? Black backing seems to be used by many of the commercially 4k screens materials.
post #356 of 544
I am sure the regular silver milliskin backing will be fine. I have the heavier moleskin silver as the backing for my screen, although I am not using it for acoustic transparency, and it is stretched pretty tight. Also if you look at some of the very early spandex threads, some used black material as the backing. How successful that is would depend on you projector and throw distance.
post #357 of 544
Quote:
Originally Posted by brendelac View Post

For anyone with a similar frame as the original post, did you paint your frame behind the spandex? I watched my first movie (prometheus) yesterday on my new screen and there was one scene where the two vertical boards were very noticeable, seemingly because of the fact that they were a solid object rather than their actual colour. Just curious if painting will make enough of a difference to justify removing the spandex. Thanks.
For anyone that wants to know, black paint alone solved my issue.
post #358 of 544
Thanks, Brendelac!

I guess I better pick up some flat black spray paint before I stretch my spandex! wink.gif

Mike
post #359 of 544
As an experiment, I tried just a single layer of white spandex stretched <5% onto my frame with the Screentight channels on the back. My frame is a HomeDepot special using 1" aluminum square tubing with 3/4" aluminum channels for center struts. The bare aluminum glowed noticeably in all but the darkest scenes. There was also a fair amount of transmitted light through the screen and reflecting back to further highlight the braces.

I painted the frame flat black and it completely disappeared. I mounted a layer of matte black milliskin spandex to the back of the frame to block both transmitted and and reflected light, and this completely eliminated the light bleed problem from the single layer of matte white milliskin.

The best part was that I did not lose any of the "POP" from a white screen by placing the black spandex 1" behind the white layer rather than in contact with the white layer. I am really pleased with this screen system and feel it is much better than the SilverFire painted canvas screen I previously used on the same frame. biggrin.gif

Mike
post #360 of 544
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhutchins View Post

I am really pleased with this screen system and feel it is much better than the SilverFire painted canvas screen I previously used on the same frame. biggrin.gif
Mike

Thanks for taking the time to share your comparisons. Can you elaborate a little on the differences you saw between your white/black milliskin vs. SF and why you preferred the milliskin other than the fact that its AT. I would have expect the SF screen to be preferable to the milliskin but its great to hear your results
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