My Dual 15" Dayton HO How should I build it Thread? - Page 3

Here are my mockups of port velocity. I did 5.750 Cu Ft Box, Tuned to 18.37 hz, 2nd order Buttorworth @ 19hz, 2 X 3" X 18.25" Ports. The first one is 200 watts and the 2nd 400 watts. Its between 20 and 28 m/s. Don't know if that's considered bad or not, but I can't tell if it is. Some people say it can be higher without problems and some people say it should be lower, but sounds good to me.



Edited by Evolvo - 11/8/12 at 10:11pm

So I have to give my friend back his ep 2500 and need a new amp for my subs. I was thinking the 3000 berry inuke amp with dsp or buying 2 500 watt yung plate amps. With the inuke im wondering what is the lowest u can set high pass frequency at cause i need to do about 17hz. Also im wondering would the fact the inuke has higher input sensitivity than home gear cause me problems. The ep2500 did not. Im thjnking the plate amps might be to week to eq properly .

What about the sensitivity level difference, is that going to be pretty much the same as with the EP2500. Man I don't want to spend that kind of money, but if I have to I will. I see a EP4000 on craigslist for 200, hope i can pick that up. If I were using the Inuke does that mean I would no longer need my feedback destroyer.

Lol, yeah that's me. I'm pretty sure the way I'm doing it, I'm probably losing some DB's with the amt of EQ I'm doing to bring the rest of the frequency range above 30hz down to where 20hz is, but with the EP4000, my crazy process may sound better with the more powerful amp.

Thanks for the advise, I'll definitely test the crap out of it.

Is there a way to ultimately tell what your sub is tuned to, so that you can put the high pass filter at the correct frequency?

Should your HPF be set at the same frequency as your tuning frequency?

Given that price was the same for both processes, would you go with the more powerful ep 4000 using my process or the inuke?
Edited by Evolvo - 11/24/12 at 4:02pm

So then that means the Inuke 3000 is more powerful than the EP2500. I thought the ep2500 was on the same level as the inuke. I'm suprised by that, I guess I haven't officially read the stats. I was more or less just looking at pricing.

As far as the HPF goes, "does 2nd order buttorworth mean 12db per octave dropoff"?

I've seen 4th order which seemed to drop at a faster rate, at what point is 4th order necessary?

This kinda opens another can of worms for me. I didn't know bottoming out factored in to this. So taking from the statement you just made I'm going to make an assumption and you can tell me whether this is right or not.

I knew that I needed an HPF so that the woofer would not extend pass Xmax and move to far in or out. I'm guessing the term for this is called bottoming out. Assuming that statement is right, I never really new that term meant that. I thought you could damage a woofer without knowing it, meaning that the woofer could be flopping while playing loud music and you would not know that it was flopping. I thought bottoming out meant something else.

So just for clarification will you definitely know if you need a HPF by hearing the sound of the woofer bottoming our or could you still be damaging woofer without knowing it?

You say trial and error, so also I'm assuming that the sub bottoming out once or twice is not a problem, but constant bottoming out would eventually damage woofer?

This may sound stupid but technically speaking could I play War of the Worlds at 100 watts with no HPF just to see how it sounds, or would this be a huge risk to the driver.

I previously had played "bass I love you" without the HPF on and I noticed the woofers was moving big time and the air was gushing out of the box, but I was scared to to turn it up. So technically in this situation was the woofer ok because the woofer wasn't making any bad sounds?

Also is it possible that the natural rolloff of a sub could act as a HPF considering most subs take a steep dive after the the tuning frequency anyway?

I just ran tones in 2 DB increments from 22hz down to 8hz. At 16hz I have the least amount of cone movement. The cone moves more at 18hz than it does at 14hz. So I'm not sure if that means I'm closer to 14hz than 18hz, but we'll just say I'm tuned to about 16hz.

I don't know quite what that means but I'm going to take a stab. The box frequency is actually rolling off and not the amount of power that is being applied to the woofer below 16hz. So a HPF will send a week signal to the woofer so the woofer doesn't even attempt to create play loud below a certain frequency.

I never posted pics of the finished product and hate when people don't so here they are. I added another piece to the front baffle so the woofer could be inset. I also rounded the edges and ports to give sub a more finished look, added polyfill to enclosure walls and then slapped some paint on them. They sound and look fantastic tuned to somewhere around 16hz and no port chuffing. All I ever dreamed of, except I'd like one more for the back of the room.











Edited by Evolvo - 12/9/12 at 2:10pm

I have tiered seating so the tweeter is ear level. They sound amazing. Bass is super tight and I get great soundstage. The stands are filled with 75lbs of sand. What are u going to replace Ur tht's with? Are u building Cornscallas? I really like the La Scala midrange better. 22" stands about and the tier is 14".

Did u build Ur cornscallas? Do u have a thread? How do they sound compared to Cornwall's?