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SEOS Surround Build - Page 2

post #31 of 170
How do these speakers perform with the enclosure mounted in wall behind an AT screen?
post #32 of 170
Hi BabyHuey,

I wouldn't say this with most narrow baffle speakers, but these could be placed in wall without much change to the sound. They may sound a little more full/thick in the bottom near the subwoofer xo point. Would probably work quite well.

If your wall is 6" deep, the delta10a may fit right in there. I'm pretty sure the SEOS with CD will fit. I know this because I plan to do a fully documented in wall build with the eminence alpha8a. I'm trying to convince Erich to even get a wall baffle made for it. Will be some time though. I'd do like you and use the delta10a, but I'm a little hesitant to put that large of woofer in a 5.5" deep wall. Especially with the pole vent. The waveguide and CD on the other hand, don't need any clearance.
post #33 of 170
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

Hi BabyHuey,
I wouldn't say this with most narrow baffle speakers, but these could be placed in wall without much change to the sound. They may sound a little more full/thick in the bottom near the subwoofer xo point. Would probably work quite well.
If your wall is 6" deep, the delta10a may fit right in there. I'm pretty sure the SEOS with CD will fit. I know this because I plan to do a fully documented in wall build with the eminence alpha8a. I'm trying to convince Erich to even get a wall baffle made for it. Will be some time though. I'd do like you and use the delta10a, but I'm a little hesitant to put that large of woofer in a 5.5" deep wall. Especially with the pole vent. The waveguide and CD on the other hand, don't need any clearance.

Tux,

To be clear, I think BabyHuey was asking if the finished speakers as I'm building could be used in-wall. What I believe you are describing is a custom build or at a minimum a new design (i,e, different box).

That all being said the box is 14.5 x 9.5, so it just fits my between my studs, but sticks out 3.5 inches (my studs are 6" deep). So unless you have deep walls, it won't work "as is". You'll need a different approach like you described.

I'm probably "Captain Obvious"...

BabyHuey,

I got to share this. Way "back in the day", I used to work out with Issac Hayes (Shaft, Escape from New York) and he used to call me "Baby Huey" because I was young (still in high school) and large (240 lbs). Just had to share... rolleyes.gif

Java
post #34 of 170
Ah yes. I see what you mean Java. Sticking out 3.5" wouldn't be ideal, but wouldn't mess things up. Probably a few wrinkles in the 400hz range, but quite minor. If any.
post #35 of 170
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

Ah yes. I see what you mean Java. Sticking out 3.5" wouldn't be ideal, but wouldn't mess things up. Probably a few wrinkles in the 400hz range, but quite minor. If any.

Also, forgot about the Sheetrock. Depending on layers and thickness, you could shave an inch or so. You could also lose the inner baffle (need to trim outer baffle width) for another 3/4. Maybe get it down to 2"?
post #36 of 170
I think the box could be made a bit shallower if the vertical brace was changed. If we didn't recess the woofer on an in-wall design, that could do away with the double thick baffle as well.

Maybe the little neo compression driver along with an 8" woofer would keep things really shallow. I really need to try and get the manufacturer to produce that neo CD with a bolt on plate, versus a screw on. That would save about 1/2". If there was a shallow 8" woofer with a neo magnet, that would be an incredibly light weight and small speaker.
post #37 of 170
Making the dna150 a bolt on wouldn't save any space. At least based on what I can tell looking at it. The bigger CDs will fit in wall. I plan to surface mount my woofer and waveguide. On a 4" wall though, wont fit.

How about them surrounds eh. Sorry to sidetrack your thread java.
post #38 of 170
Thread Starter 
Flat Pack Assembly

Wow!! What a difference from my first build. What took a month could literally be done in a day.

Hat's off to Erich for the quality and thought that went into the flat packs.

Here is a video of the assembly



And the final product
post #39 of 170
did you make that video java?
post #40 of 170
mesmerizing
post #41 of 170
Awesome
post #42 of 170
Very cool. Very professional too. Do you do this kind of stuff for a living?
post #43 of 170
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

Very cool. Very professional too. Do you do this kind of stuff for a living?

Thanks. Nope, just one of many hobbies. Hence my user tag "Eternal Noob".
post #44 of 170
Sweet thread Java! Great work!


dbl
post #45 of 170
Super sweet assembly video! After watching that, it looks like I need to set up some type of video system and give it a try. Of course I don't know how to edit, so watching it would take about 8 hours!! smile.gif

You really did a good job on that, very impressive. Is there an easy to learn video editing program out there that won't break the bank? Or should I just send you a pallet of flat packs with some free wood glue??? biggrin.gif



I noticed it looked like you were tapping in that final side panel towards the end. That's pretty normal during assembly when there's a double layer baffle that has to be fully recessed into the box. But you did a great job getting it all together.


By the way, if you look at the inner baffle, you'll notice that the waveguide cut out is about 1/4" narrower on the sides. That was done on purpose because the inner baffle isn't as wide as the outer baffle. So when the waveguide hole is cut, it's fairly close to the edge, so I had them bring it in a little on the sides to beef it up.
post #46 of 170
Thinking about that last side panel some more. If I had the rabbet joint on that one taken in to about .8" versus .75", it would go in pretty easy at the end. That way when you "folded it upwards" to install it, there would be a little more "slop" on the panel, but it wouldn't cause a structural issue at all. Can you picture what I'm trying to explain? I stink at explanations. smile.gif

The only issue is that both side panels are identical right now. So if I changed the rabbet joint on one panel, I'd have to mark it so people knew to install it last. If they installed it first, it would cause a problem. I might give that a try. But I wonder if it would cause more issues than it tried to solve.
post #47 of 170
What artist/track is that in the video?
post #48 of 170
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

Super sweet assembly video! After watching that, it looks like I need to set up some type of video system and give it a try. Of course I don't know how to edit, so watching it would take about 8 hours!! smile.gif
You really did a good job on that, very impressive. Is there an easy to learn video editing program out there that won't break the bank? Or should I just send you a pallet of flat packs with some free wood glue??? biggrin.gif
I noticed it looked like you were tapping in that final side panel towards the end. That's pretty normal during assembly when there's a double layer baffle that has to be fully recessed into the box. But you did a great job getting it all together.
By the way, if you look at the inner baffle, you'll notice that the waveguide cut out is about 1/4" narrower on the sides. That was done on purpose because the inner baffle isn't as wide as the outer baffle. So when the waveguide hole is cut, it's fairly close to the edge, so I had them bring it in a little on the sides to beef it up.

EricH you can do simple editing with Windows Movie Maker, its free and pretty simple to use. If you wanted something more powerful that was not super expensive id recommend Sony Vegas (movie studio platinum) which is 150 ish
post #49 of 170
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

Super sweet assembly video! After watching that, it looks like I need to set up some type of video system and give it a try. Of course I don't know how to edit, so watching it would take about 8 hours!! smile.gif
You really did a good job on that, very impressive. Is there an easy to learn video editing program out there that won't break the bank? Or should I just send you a pallet of flat packs with some free wood glue??? biggrin.gif
I noticed it looked like you were tapping in that final side panel towards the end. That's pretty normal during assembly when there's a double layer baffle that has to be fully recessed into the box. But you did a great job getting it all together.
By the way, if you look at the inner baffle, you'll notice that the waveguide cut out is about 1/4" narrower on the sides. That was done on purpose because the inner baffle isn't as wide as the outer baffle. So when the waveguide hole is cut, it's fairly close to the edge, so I had them bring it in a little on the sides to beef it up.

Thanks, Erich. Just trying to give your project the support it deserves.

Setting this up isn't too hard. For hardware, any HD camera will do. Beyond that you'll need a tripod to keep the camera steady and some lights. Cheap work lights will work fine (may get hot, though).

On the editing side, it depends on you operating system. For Mac's use iMovie (that's what I used for this). For windows use Premiere Elements. I taught myself to use both via youtube tutorials and Lynda.com.

For the flat pack shoot, I sped it up 2000% or it would be a 30 minute "bore-athon".

I'm happy to shoot whatever you need or help you to shoot. I'm assuming you don't need a different video for each flat pack. Only for the packs that have different layouts or assembly.
post #50 of 170
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

Thinking about that last side panel some more. If I had the rabbet joint on that one taken in to about .8" versus .75", it would go in pretty easy at the end. That way when you "folded it upwards" to install it, there would be a little more "slop" on the panel, but it wouldn't cause a structural issue at all. Can you picture what I'm trying to explain? I stink at explanations. smile.gif
The only issue is that both side panels are identical right now. So if I changed the rabbet joint on one panel, I'd have to mark it so people knew to install it last. If they installed it first, it would cause a problem. I might give that a try. But I wonder if it would cause more issues than it tried to solve.

I think it's more trouble than it's worth. I was a little tight, but in the end it worked fine.

I understand your option on taking a little more out of the joint, but then you'd have to label them.

Would it be a problem to combine those two steps (inner baffle, right panel) into one step?
post #51 of 170
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pgwalsh View Post

What artist/track is that in the video?

I used YouTube to add a music track. Below is the artist info. I'm not familiar with them, but I thought it fit the video well.

post #52 of 170
Thread Starter 
Flat Pack Instructions

SEOS .75 cu ft - Delta 10A flat pack.pdf 1040k .pdf file

Erich, I took the liberty to put together instructions for the flat pack assembly. Even with a video, it may be helpful to have a print out showing the clamp positioning and such while you are putting it together.

Let me know what you think. Happy to change anything.
post #53 of 170
that is a nice write up and the movie is awesome.

adding a "what you will need" page to the instructions might be a good idea in order to make this as simple as possible.

suggestions for the glue, a few suggestions for low cost clamps, paper towells/rags for glue wipe up, etc.

---

i can just hear a thousand customers now asking, ok, i've got my cabs built, but how do i finish them?

some instructions/videos for various finishing methods might be a nice include.

lots of folks might watch the videos out of curiousity and when they see that they can do it, they will jump in.
post #54 of 170
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

that is a nice write up and the movie is awesome.
adding a "what you will need" page to the instructions might be a good idea in order to make this as simple as possible.
suggestions for the glue, a few suggestions for low cost clamps, paper towells/rags for glue wipe up, etc.
---
i can just hear a thousand customers now asking, ok, i've got my cabs built, but how do i finish them?
some instructions/videos for various finishing methods might be a nice include.
lots of folks might watch the videos out of curiousity and when they see that they can do it, they will jump in.

Thanks, LTD. Great suggestion on the instructions. I'll make updates.

I hear you on the finishing. I'm concerned about the dust and fumes with my "good" camera, but I may try it with "sport camera". I already started on the filling stage (bond), but I'll see what I can do. I'm envisioning another sped up video because it will be a snooze fest otherwise.

I shot a video on the crossovers but it's long and boring. I'll see what I can do with it.
post #55 of 170
Just seeing the pictorial instructions makes me want to build a pair of speakers again. This makes it look so easy! I really love the flat pack idea.
post #56 of 170
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

that is a nice write up and the movie is awesome.
adding a "what you will need" page to the instructions might be a good idea in order to make this as simple as possible.
suggestions for the glue, a few suggestions for low cost clamps, paper towells/rags for glue wipe up, etc.
---
i can just hear a thousand customers now asking, ok, i've got my cabs built, but how do i finish them?
some instructions/videos for various finishing methods might be a nice include.
lots of folks might watch the videos out of curiousity and when they see that they can do it, they will jump in.

Great video and nice trick on the 2x4 to distribute the clamping pressure. In addition to the above suggestions, it might be worthwhile to explain that for those who might not know. Also I picked up a 4-pack of those clamps for under $20 at one the big box stores and those others clamps can be found at Harbor Freight for cheap. So for around $25 you have enough clamps to assemble one of these flat packs.
post #57 of 170
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spec4 View Post

Great video and nice trick on the 2x4 to distribute the clamping pressure. In addition to the above suggestions, it might be worthwhile to explain that for those who might not know. Also I picked up a 4-pack of those clamps for under $20 at one the big box stores and those others clamps can be found at Harbor Freight for cheap. So for around $25 you have enough clamps to assemble one of these flat packs.

That trick came from Erich. I'm too much of a noob to have gotten it by myself. wink.gif

Can you shoot a link on the 4-pack? $20 is a great deal. I'll add it to the instructions.

Thanks!
post #58 of 170
Quote:
Originally Posted by Java View Post

That trick came from Erich. I'm too much of a noob to have gotten it by myself. wink.gif
Can you shoot a link on the 4-pack? $20 is a great deal. I'll add it to the instructions.
Thanks!


The $20 is a sale price.

Might not last long.

Here's the link



http://www.lowes.com/pd_409558-281-1851480_0__?productId=4009979&Ntt=irwin+clamp&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dirwin%2Bclamp&facetInfo=


post #59 of 170
Rockler had some really nice clamps on sale for about $14 each. I think they were 18" long, but they had other sizes too.
post #60 of 170
If you prefer Bessey clamps(I have about a dozen), Amazon sometimes has some great deals: http://www.amazon.com/Bessey-KRK2450-Fixed-Parallel-Includes/dp/B001HSO6VI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1353419062&sr=8-2&keywords=bessey
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