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A little help getting started with sub build for HT

post #1 of 19
Thread Starter 
Hey, got a little problem. I have been modeling a couple speakers as best as I can, but I have worked myself into a stupor. I have an odd sized room, and placement of the woofer is more or less dictating what I can do. Here is what I mean:


Behind the chair is where I currently have my sub. It's a sony htib sub that I have had for 10 years. The reason I put it there is because I dont have much room up front.

The room is 18x18 with highest wall 16 ft.

Pardon the mess, in process of painting. Anyways, I hear its preferred to have the sub up front firing towards you. But I don't know if its the room size, or just this crappy sub but I found it sounds best in that corner i showed. So I have ran wire in wall to that location. Guess I would prefer the sub to be there, but it cant be too big. Is it a good idea to have it right against the wall? If so, in that corner, I could get away with about 20w x 20d x 22h. If it is best for it to be out from the wall 6 inches or so, that cuts my size by that much.

I put an order in for the dayton rss390HO saturday, but cancelled the order last night becuase now i'm thinking maybe a smaller sealed box with a dayton 12HF/HO? and a 15" dayton passive rad. This is my first build, and I guess going PR is a bit more complicated, but I'm sure I can figure it out with a little help.

I will be powering with the parts express bash 500, that I already aquired. Question about that amp, anyone know the stock hpf? Thats another reason I had trouble modeling, I didn't know what tune to choose. I want the lowest possible for HT of course.

Another thing that may be an option, is an endtable build, putting it next to sofa where current table is. That would let me get away with a much larger box, but I'm unsure about the effect this creates. I will use this for 99% movies/tv, and don't want it to be totally obvious. If I crossover around 60hz, maybe this will become less of an issue? It's just that that seat next to the table is my preferred seat.

Thanks for any help guys, I really could use it!

Cheers!
post #2 of 19
Nice room!

You obviously need something size conscious. I can respect that.
I went the end table route a few years back and love them. Or you could build a more capable sub to replace the one in the current location.
If you go sealed you can keep the footprint down and still kick ass.
post #3 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post

Nice room!
You obviously need something size conscious. I can respect that.
I went the end table route a few years back and love them. Or you could build a more capable sub to replace the one in the current location.
If you go sealed you can keep the footprint down and still kick ass.
Hey thanks man! With the end table how close were you to it when seated? And does it distract you at all. I just don't want to be thinking about the sub when I'm trying to get into a movie.
post #4 of 19
I have one at each end of the couch, about a foot away from the seating position(s). If you have your crossover point at 80Hz or below you won't be able to locate the sub(s). I prefer 60Hz.
post #5 of 19
Thread Starter 
How about an epic 12 in about 3.2ft^2 with a 15 in passive? I think I could tune that pretty low but again I am not sure of my bash 500 hpf. I read somewhere that its around 18. Although the epic 12 may be enough without the PR.
post #6 of 19
Do you have any budget constraints and roughly what dimensions are shooting for?
post #7 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post

Do you have any budget constraints and roughly what dimensions are shooting for?
I'd like to get er done under 250, minus material. Max size for end table 24" cube-ish. If in corner it needs to be under 21.
post #8 of 19
That budget is going to make it tougher. The smaller/sealed setups typicall need more power and more expensive drivers, etc.
You might want to consider a 'smallish' ported setup with a 15" or 18" driver tuned to around 22-25hz, much lower and your size might move out of the acceptable range.

Perhaps if you provide some dimensions some members can make some recommendations on a driver/size/tuning...
post #9 of 19
Thread Starter 
28x18x25 would be the max outer dimensions for an end table. Using 3/4 MDF, doubled baffle will probably net 5.3-5.5 ft^3.
I'm a little unsure how an end table will blend though. I suppose if it doesn't sound right I could move it over closer to wall and find another place for lamp. Sheesh, decisions like this are were much easier when I was a bachelor tongue.gif
post #10 of 19
Thread Starter 
Ok I've done some modeling with the RSS315HF. Could anyone tell me if these look good?

This is where I'm thinking of putting it for now. I could eventually put another on the other side of the sofa, depending on how this sounds.


I tried entering the parameters of the speaker myself, but then downloaded one already done on the HTS forums. For dunno if i did it wrong, or the one I downloaded is wrong (likely the former) but I had two different results. So the pics are of one I found on the forums. Why is there a 5-6db dip around 26hz? Did I do something wrong?

When I have put in winisd to use two ports, do I divide the port length it tells me or is the length for each port?

Tuning is for 19 hz, And I guestimated around 6.5 ft^3 after subtracting for stuff inside. From what I've found my bash amp either has a rumble (hpf?) at 30, or if its a newer one, around 19. I found a good chart so I will mod it as needed.

Or perhaps it would be better with the rss390hf?


Thanks for helping a dumb noob! I really want to get this box done before family visits thanksgiving to get a little eek.gif reaction biggrin.gif
post #11 of 19
member evolvo was asking about almost exactly the same thing.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1437195/my-dual-15-dayton-ho-how-should-i-build-it-thread

here is a teaser: "Holy mother of all gods. I just watched transformers forest scene and exerpienced sound I've never heard before. This is fricking amazing."
post #12 of 19
Thread Starter 
Well, I hope to have a similar experience smile.gif . Though I'm surprised he was able to get away with such small ports.

Anyways I'm starting the build tomorrow. I am going for a 22hz tune in 5.5ft. Amp will be a young 300 since my bash is fried. Oh well, sure it will be more than enough...for now. tongue.gif
post #13 of 19
That tuning will work well as long as the yung has a hpf around 18-20hz. I haven't been able to find anything indicating a hpf on the yung amps though.

Behind the chair, where the end table is or where the lamp is will all give about the same result. It's really not that much of a difference as they are all basically in the corner of the room where the ceiling is lowest, which will give the most gain.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ichoozjc View Post

I'm surprised he was able to get away with such small ports.

His ports are too small. It's not just port noise, but reduced output. 2x4" is still a little on the small side still but would be ok w/ a round over at the baffle. 1x6" would be better.
Edited by nograveconcern - 11/9/12 at 10:58am
post #14 of 19
Thread Starter 
Just wanted to thank you guys for the help.JPM, Nograveconcern, LTD, much appreciated! Finished it up this weekend. Well, still need to figure out how I'm going to finish it, but I can take my time with that and make sure it is exactly what I want. I'll post final pics when I do get to it. Here is where it stands now:





Not sure if I like the feet. I used hurricane nuts to attach them so I can easily change them. Thinking oak veneer stained dark mahogany or ebony. So yeah, sounds just a little better than the sony sub rolleyes.giftongue.gif Haven't gotten to test it as much as i'd like, but i'm sure this will get me by. Next thing to do is figure out REW and see how good I can make everything sound as is. Then maybe look into building new L/C/R speakers smile.gif

Again, thanks for the input!

Chris
post #15 of 19
you did a nice job on your build! recessed driver, routed ports, good bracing, good tuning for your room...

that style of feet might have worked better if mounted on the outside of the enclosure with a bit of runner across the length. kind of like an night table footing. not exactly, but in the spirit of something like this: http://www.lizmarieblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/37007-Nightstand-15x28x271.jpg

now, clean up your room and get rid of that wall "art". a large medieval tapestry belongs up there. :-)
post #16 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

you did a nice job on your build! recessed driver, routed ports, good bracing, good tuning for your room...
that style of feet might have worked better if mounted on the outside of the enclosure with a bit of runner across the length. kind of like an night table footing. not exactly, but in the spirit of something like this: http://www.lizmarieblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/37007-Nightstand-15x28x271.jpg
now, clean up your room and get rid of that wall "art". a large medieval tapestry belongs up there. :-)
Thanks, LTD! Yeah, the more I look at the sub it starts to resemble an elephant on stilts tongue.gif Thanks for the suggestion, I'll definitely keep it in mind!... the furniture suggestion that is... the tapestry might just cause the wife to go medieval on me biggrin.gif But yeah, I'm already looking around trying to find ways to discretely add some sound deadening in this room.
post #17 of 19
not all medieval tapestries are war and blood. i was just suggest'n...

something like: http://castletapestry.com/BERRY.JPG

off topic, i know.

you've got the performance, now you need to work on the...presentation...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JQJJjcrwXQE :-)
post #18 of 19
Turned out great. Really nice work!
post #19 of 19
Hey!
Nice work!
I forgot to check back in on this thread after the initial couple of posts.
Wow, I am pleased to see you went ahead and conquered this project and quickly! cool.gif
Way to go! I hope you are happy with the results.
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