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Official Vizio M650VSE Owners Thread! - Page 15

post #421 of 717
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcmag View Post

One of us should call Amex this week and get the answer about the warranty-doubling process, such whether it is with a third party or with Vizio.
Yes, Amex does give you the extra year coverage. Discover Card also does that now too. I'm not sure how they handle the repair though.

You can buy the extra warranty at Costco even if you bought it at Sams. But read the warranty. Repairs can never exceed the purchase price. So if you have 1 or 2 repairs (different problems) on the set and then the set goes out and not repairable, they will give you the cost of the set LESS the cost of the previous repairs. The trouble is you don't know how much the previous repairs cost. I'm not sure if Sams or Vizio's extended warranty works like that or not.
post #422 of 717
Quote:
Originally Posted by myapplebuddy View Post

Here are the issues I have experienced:
1. Every so often there is a "glitch" where the picture goes out for a split second then comes right back.
2. The remote is fairly unresponsive (touchy) most of the time, and sometimes it completely locks up and is unresponsive to all commands for about 30 seconds.
3. The Internet apps worked at first but now when I try to pull them up I just get the spinning loading indicator but nothing happens. My network is fine so I may need to reset the TV. I am using a hard wired connection.
4. I can't get the colors quite right. Greens and reds are the main culprit.

Even though I have the 651, it sounds like they are both plagued with the same problems. I can't use Component, the picture goes black every once in a while for a second or 2. Especially during commercials. I am going to try a booster on my HDMI to see if it will fix the problem on there. Although that shouldn't be necessary, I'm going to try it anyway. I have tried different cables, including 3D rated cables but still have the problem.

At least I know i'm not the only one who can't get the colors adjusted, although I think I have them pretty good now. It just depends on what I'm watching. Some channels look good, others don't. Many blacks have a strong Navy Blue Hue, especially men wearing black suits. As in Mr. Poppers Penguins, towards the end of the movie at the party.

It's too bad because this would be a great set if it wasn't for these problems.

I do miss the Bluetooth remote that my 554 has. Plus I can use a Bluetooth keyboard with it, which is nice with Youtube.
post #423 of 717
My advice to BrianDanella is based on a guess his surround receiver is not HDMI compliant and he's not already using it for switching sources going to his panel. I assume if you were using an HDMI receiver and the panel's HDMI with ARC, the extra cable wouldn't be needed.
post #424 of 717
Nope my receiver is HDMI. My though is the Vizio TV is the source for the sound since the Netflix is built into it. The HDMI is running from my receiver output in terminating into the HDMi #2 input.

So assuming what a previous person responded I would need a optical out plugged into the receiver to receive surround sound.
Unless HDMI 1 has anything over HDMI #2 on the tv itself.
post #425 of 717
I got my TV delivered on Friday and set it up using the included base. The TV does not sit straight on the base, and I'm going to try loosening the mount screws to level it. The base is ... OK. I don't feel like the TV is going to fall off, but the base is not what you would call overengineered.

Before ordering the TV, my #1 concern with this set (which will be used by my family for gaming about 99% of the time) was input lag. I'm happy to report that when the TV is set to game mode in settings, there is minimal to no input lag from either a 360 or a PS3 connected over HDMI.

The remote was dead out of the box. Since I also ordered the 60" 601ia3 and the 70" 701ia3, and the 60" had already come in, I used the remote from the 60" TV to set up my M650VSE. I'm going to call Vizio today and see if they will send me a new remote. I had no issues while using the remote that worked; the response time seemed fine, and the rear keyboard is a really nice feature. The 60" has already gone to my parents' house, so I am without an official remote for now.

My first impressions of my TV are entirely different from my poor impression of this model that I saw at the store running in store mode. I find the softness / weak color issues that I saw in the store TV are not present on my TV when it's in the normal home mode. Also, my TV is in a room with a lot of uncovered windows, and the semi-matte screen on the M650VSE does a fine job of rejecting reflections. It's not nearly as matte as the Sharp TVs, but I find the Vizio picture to be much better overall to my eyes than the picture on the Sharp TVs.

However: I have two large (6" or so) bright circular clouds near, but not at, the top left and right corners of the screen. They are visible while watching normal programming or playing games. I'm going to try the microfiber cloth / paint roller trick and hope for the best. Also, last night, I had a stuck-on-green pixel in the lower right hand corner. I gently rubbed that, and it became unstuck. These issues, plus the dead remote issue, led me to cancel my order for the 70" 701ia3; I am uncomfortable with the quality problems.

I have the Disney WOW calibration disc and I'm going to see what I can do to calibrate the TV myself this week. Out of the box in standard picture mode, the colors were pretty far off; everything had a green / blue cast to it when watching the 2001: A Space Odyssey blu-ray, and the whites were dingy. Weirdly enough, the default "game" picture setting fixed a lot of the blue / green / white issues with no other adjustments, but the reds are still pretty odd. The blacks are perfectly acceptable to me with little crush in the out-of-the-box settings in game picture mode; the blacks overall are really not bad at all. I do not see banding, and there is NO flashlighting. I have a 32" Sony XBR from a few years ago that I paid $1,400 for and it has horrible flashlighting, so this TV is infinitely better in that regard.

The built-in speakers are, to my ears, pretty awful even considering the low standards for built-in speakers. I went to Best Buy yesterday to look at sound bars, but I found them all overpriced for what you get. I have ordered a nice Denon receiver and the popular Energy Take Classic 5.1 speaker system... so my $1100 TV is now costing me another $700, lol. Oh well, I "saved" $1,700 by cancelling the 70" order, so I guess it's OK.

If I can get the clouds to dim and if the stuck pixel does not come back, I'm going to keep the TV because it meets my no lag / semi-matte screen requirements. I'm hoping it works out because I'm not sure what other reasonably priced set I would buy in the 65" range that has a semi-matte screen.
post #426 of 717
IIRC: Only HDMI 1 has the Audio Return Channel, so that could influence when HDMI's you use, such as the panel into the reciever's HDMI 1 and the DTV into HDMI 2. Still guessing here and the optical/toslink cable is less than $20 and less than $10 at Monoprice..
post #427 of 717
Hi Guys,
New to this forum. Not sure if I have to start a new thread for the question below, a very simple one for most here I would imagine. Please help/advise. Thanks much.

- I recently bought the Vizio M650VSE on a Black Friday sale and I'm loving it. I'm trying to wall-mount my unit and ran in to some confusion with the screw size (from the manual)
1. Manual states M6 12mm (length) x 1mm (pitch), but clearly this M6 screw I picked up from Lowe's is way too small in terms of diameter. So what is the right screw size (Hole pattern says 400mm (V) x 600mm (H) <--- I thought this is where the 6 in M6 comes from but, it doesn't work.
2. Second question is, 12mm sounds and looks really small (even for the stronger black metal screws). Will 4 of these be enough to support a 80 lb tv? Will I break anything by using a longer screw, since depth of the hole is 400mm per manual? Say a 50mm instead of a 12mm?

Any help or advise will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

PS: I did search this forum for this detail and couldn't find a thread.
post #428 of 717
Quote:
Originally Posted by cboothe View Post

This is the buggiest TV I've ever purchased. The TV will not cooperate with my Pioneer VSX-1020K receiver. I don't even use CEC, but I'll intermittently lose audio/video and then it comes back. The receiver goes into a state where it looks like it is powered off but you can see the audio level in a corner of the receiver display. The Vizio remote works intermittently. I think I read on an Amazon review that there is a bug with WPA2 wireless security causing the remote issues. This TV is screaming for a new firmware and I'm amazed it has been available since September and still doesn't have one. Picture looks pretty good when it works. Bypassing my receiver for now and will wait for an update. If I don't see one by Christmas, the TV is going back to the store.
Chris

I am having this exact issue. VSX-1020 and all... I have my receiver in the basement and cannot actually see what it is doing. I know that the receive is turning off and on since my computer looses a connected device and then makes the sound that a device has been connected. CEC worked great to display volume info, but then would change the receivers input to TV/SAT, which doesn't help.

Tonight I moved the TV's HDMl input from #1 to #2 - going to see if that fixes the issue.
What HDMI input on the TV are you using?

EDIT - Changing to HDMI #2 doesn't solve the issue...
post #429 of 717
Well I have changed my mind again and decided to keep the M650VSE after all. I finally found settings I am reasonably happy with, even though at times the color still isn't quite right. The "fix" for me was to have three sets of settings available depending on what I'm watching. My major issue from the beginning has been the colors on this set. Here's what I found: the color enhancement feature makes some things (like football) look better but for the most part makes things look worse. Here are the three sets of settings that I'm using.
The first set are the settings I use for 90% of my TV watching:
Picture Mode: Standard
Backlight: 50
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 54
Color: 68
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 6
Color Temperature: Custom
All RGB gains/offsets at 50 except green gain/offset at 45
Smooth motion: Off
Noise reduction: Low
MPEG NR: Low
Color enhancement: Off (this is key)
Adaptive luma: Off
Film mode: Auto
Backlight control: Off
Ambient light sensor: Off

The second set of settings I use mostly for football but sometimes they look better on other shows as well.
Picture mode: Football
Backlight: 50
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 54
Color: 48
Tint: -2
Sharpness: 6
All other settings exactly the same as above except for the Color Enhancement setting which should be set to "Normal"

The third set of settings are what I use for Blu Ray watching.
Picture Mode - Movie
Backlight: 40
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 52
Color: 68
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 6
All other settings exactly the same as the first set above (Color Enhancement Off)

If any of you have found settings you like better let me know - I'm always looking to improve PQ although I know a lot of it just comes down to personal preference. I prefer a "natural" looking picture as opposed to an over exaggerated (store mode) type picture.
post #430 of 717
So are you saying that if I switch my HDMI from #2 over to #1 I should get audio out of the Netflix from the tv?
What was happening to me was I would have my directv box on watching directv then I would hit the Netflix button and the sound was coming from my surround sound broad casting the Direct TV channel sound and my tv speakers where broadcasting the netflix sound.

So assuming that the HDMI # 1 is the only one that has the audio return should I just move the HDMI cable over to #1 and problem solved.
Or does the direct tv have to have its own HDMI cable and the source on the Receiver has to be changed when I watch netflix?

I ordered a Optical Cable as that will plug into my receiver and the back of the tv has a Optical output port. I just thought there has to be a way to do this with one (HDMI) cable for both. Essentially turning off the directv box when not in use.

Any help let me know. Is there a difference as to what HDMI input I plug into it into on the back of the tv? There shouldnt be.
post #431 of 717
Quote:
Originally Posted by cboothe View Post

This is the buggiest TV I've ever purchased. The TV will not cooperate with my Pioneer VSX-1020K receiver. I don't even use CEC, but I'll intermittently lose audio/video and then it comes back. The receiver goes into a state where it looks like it is powered off but you can see the audio level in a corner of the receiver display. The Vizio remote works intermittently. I think I read on an Amazon review that there is a bug with WPA2 wireless security causing the remote issues. This TV is screaming for a new firmware and I'm amazed it has been available since September and still doesn't have one. Picture looks pretty good when it works. Bypassing my receiver for now and will wait for an update. If I don't see one by Christmas, the TV is going back to the store.
Chris

This is interesting, I'm using mine with the 1020K and have had no issues to date..
post #432 of 717
Quote:
Originally Posted by myapplebuddy View Post

Well I have changed my mind again and decided to keep the M650VSE after all. I finally found settings I am reasonably happy with, even though at times the color still isn't quite right. The "fix" for me was to have three sets of settings available depending on what I'm watching. My major issue from the beginning has been the colors on this set. Here's what I found: the color enhancement feature makes some things (like football) look better but for the most part makes things look worse. Here are the three sets of settings that I'm using.
The first set are the settings I use for 90% of my TV watching:
Picture Mode: Standard
Backlight: 50
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 54
Color: 68
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 6
Color Temperature: Custom
All RGB gains/offsets at 50 except green gain/offset at 45
Smooth motion: Off
Noise reduction: Low
MPEG NR: Low
Color enhancement: Off (this is key)
Adaptive luma: Off
Film mode: Auto
Backlight control: Off
Ambient light sensor: Off
The second set of settings I use mostly for football but sometimes they look better on other shows as well.
Picture mode: Football
Backlight: 50
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 54
Color: 48
Tint: -2
Sharpness: 6
All other settings exactly the same as above except for the Color Enhancement setting which should be set to "Normal"
The third set of settings are what I use for Blu Ray watching.
Picture Mode - Movie
Backlight: 40
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 52
Color: 68
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 6
All other settings exactly the same as the first set above (Color Enhancement Off)
If any of you have found settings you like better let me know - I'm always looking to improve PQ although I know a lot of it just comes down to personal preference. I prefer a "natural" looking picture as opposed to an over exaggerated (store mode) type picture.

I read a message that you were thinking about returning your M650,, so I sent you a quick private message with some color temperature settings for normal and custom. Let me know if you did not receive the message or if you want me to resend. I tried your color setting of 68. On my set I could tell the color was starting to over saturate and the picture became a little softer. Maybe settings don't transfer well between like displays.
post #433 of 717
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike_sc View Post

I read a message that you were thinking about returning your M650,, so I sent you a quick private message with some color temperature settings for normal and custom. Let me know if you did not receive the message or if you want me to resend. I tried your color setting of 68. On my set I could tell the color was starting to over saturate and the picture became a little softer. Maybe settings don't transfer well between like displays.
Thanks - I got your PM and just responded. In terms of the color setting of 68 - that only works when the Color Enhancement setting is Off. If it's on, then 68 is way too saturated for sure. I'm going to keep tweaking. This is making me want to buy an Xrite i1Display really bad though! Maybe it's time to jump in with both feet.
post #434 of 717
Quote:
Originally Posted by mec360 View Post

I have the Disney WOW calibration disc and I'm going to see what I can do to calibrate the TV myself this week..

Cool, we can compare notes. I just ordered mine today from Amazon.
post #435 of 717
Quote:
Originally Posted by myapplebuddy View Post

Thanks - I got your PM and just responded. In terms of the color setting of 68 - that only works when the Color Enhancement setting is Off. If it's on, then 68 is way too saturated for sure. I'm going to keep tweaking. This is making me want to buy an Xrite i1Display really bad though! Maybe it's time to jump in with both feet.

I also tried your settings and was very pleased with the results. I have the Disney Wow disc on order, but am also going to do calibration using same AVS one like you did. Then we can compare settings. But your settings defintely improved over what I had from just eyeballing it.

mike_sc, please put your settings here in forum so others can see.
Quote:
This is making me want to buy an Xrite i1Display really bad though!

That would be awesome, since no one has done a true color calibration on this set. The benefit I hear is that over time the colors and PQ of TVs change and they need recalibration, so owning the right tools and learning how to do it will save money in the long run.
However, I do wonder when we get to OLED sets if these are going to need calibration as well.
post #436 of 717
Quote:
This is interesting, I'm using mine with the 1020K and have had no issues to date..




Please share what firmware your TV is on. I'm using a short HDMI cable and have even swapped out HDMI cables with no change in symptoms.

Chris
post #437 of 717
jfcarbel,,, I was thinking about posting my settings until myapplebuddy informed me of this difference. First I have the M3D650SV and I thought that it had minor differences to the M650VSE for this thread. According to myapplebuddy the range for the RGB gain and offset is 0-100. On the M3D650SV the range is 0-255, so there are probably more differences between models except a similar model number. I am only here because there is not an official thread for my set and the one that has some postings is not active.

Sorry I could not contribute any input to this thread.
post #438 of 717
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike_sc View Post

jfcarbel,,, I was thinking about posting my settings until myapplebuddy informed me of this difference. First I have the M3D650SV and I thought that it had minor differences to the M650VSE for this thread. According to myapplebuddy the range for the RGB gain and offset is 0-100. On the M3D650SV the range is 0-255, so there are probably more differences between models except a similar model number. I am only here because there is not an official thread for my set and the one that has some postings is not active.
Sorry I could not contribute any input to this thread.

Nope, that makes sense.
post #439 of 717
Is anyone that is on here planning on having a Pro Calibration done on theirs?
post #440 of 717
I picked this TV up at Costco on BF. The price was very close to the Sams Club offer. The 70 was there as well for +$300. IMHO the 65 is a nicer panel. In any event after a few weeks of ownership I did a full cal using CALMAN V5 and and an Eye One Pro colorimeter. I was able to get the Delta E below 2 across the band and color temp to track with +/- 100 degK by using the cut/gains. The secondaries were aligned well but the primaries were somewhat over saturated. Backing off the color control a couple of notches helps the primary alignment. Too bad there is no "real" CMS on this set. The resulting picture is very, very good. Hard to beat for a $1K TV. I'm very happy. YMMV.
post #441 of 717
Quote:
Originally Posted by doug goldberg View Post

I picked this TV up at Costco on BF. The price was very close to the Sams Club offer. The 70 was there as well for +$300. IMHO the 65 is a nicer panel. In any event after a few weeks of ownership I did a full cal using CALMAN V5 and and an Eye One Pro colorimeter. I was able to get the Delta E below 2 across the band and color temp to track with +/- 100 degK by using the cut/gains. The secondaries were aligned well but the primaries were somewhat over saturated. Backing off the color control a couple of notches helps the primary alignment. Too bad there is no "real" CMS on this set. The resulting picture is very, very good. Hard to beat for a $1K TV. I'm very happy. YMMV.

Please post your findings!
Thanks.
post #442 of 717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Quiote View Post

Does anyone have an opinion. Should I use my old Denon 5.1 surround sound system with good speakers or get a new sound bar.
Is there a lip sync problem using a receiver without a digital audio input?
Which one will have better sound?

Your Denon + good speakers will be way better than most sound bars esp. since most are analog input.
I just ordered a set of MartinLogan MLT-2's to be powered by an older Denon.
post #443 of 717
Quote:
Originally Posted by briandaniella View Post

So are you saying that if I switch my HDMI from #2 over to #1 I should get audio out of the Netflix from the tv?
What was happening to me was I would have my directv box on watching directv then I would hit the Netflix button and the sound was coming from my surround sound broad casting the Direct TV channel sound and my tv speakers where broadcasting the netflix sound.
So assuming that the HDMI # 1 is the only one that has the audio return should I just move the HDMI cable over to #1 and problem solved.
Or does the direct tv have to have its own HDMI cable and the source on the Receiver has to be changed when I watch netflix?
I ordered a Optical Cable as that will plug into my receiver and the back of the tv has a Optical output port. I just thought there has to be a way to do this with one (HDMI) cable for both. Essentially turning off the directv box when not in use.
Any help let me know. Is there a difference as to what HDMI input I plug into it into on the back of the tv? There shouldnt be.
Quote:
Originally Posted by briandaniella View Post

So are you saying that if I switch my HDMI from #2 over to #1 I should get audio out of the Netflix from the tv?
What was happening to me was I would have my directv box on watching directv then I would hit the Netflix button and the sound was coming from my surround sound broad casting the Direct TV channel sound and my tv speakers where broadcasting the netflix sound.
So assuming that the HDMI # 1 is the only one that has the audio return should I just move the HDMI cable over to #1 and problem solved.
Or does the direct tv have to have its own HDMI cable and the source on the Receiver has to be changed when I watch netflix?
I ordered a Optical Cable as that will plug into my receiver and the back of the tv has a Optical output port. I just thought there has to be a way to do this with one (HDMI) cable for both. Essentially turning off the directv box when not in use.
Any help let me know. Is there a difference as to what HDMI input I plug into it into on the back of the tv? There shouldnt be.

HDMI 1 on the back of the TV is specifically marked ARC. HDMI 2&3 are not.
post #444 of 717
I'd suggest trying the HDMI 1 between the panel and the receiver to see if the ARC does what you need with the VIA apps. Curious from those with more modern stuff if he should run the DirecTV into the Vizio's HDMI 2 so the panel does the switching with the ARC or let receiver do all the work using one of its HDMI's.

Regardless, the toslink/optical cable is pretty cheap.
post #445 of 717
Update - Last night, I did the "rub your clouds with a microfiber cloth" trick ... and they disappeared immediately! They are completely gone. AND, get this - I did a "technical tap" or 5 on my remote ... and now it works too! (Vizio has not yet responded to my email about it, though.)

I am a lot happier now. I fooled around with WOW and the basic color controls (only about 30 minutes or so) and ended up close to myapplebuddy's settings for my set. When I can block off some more time, I'll do the full WOW calibration, but after my short session last night, I got Futurama to look fine in streaming Netflix (I never noticed that Bender's eyes and teeth are sort of yellow, but they are; the tv is clearly showing the other characters' eyes and teeth as white, but Bender has smoker's teeth).
post #446 of 717
lorenzeami, Would you be so kind as to share the calibrated settings of your M650VSE? We would all be very grateful to have this information.
post #447 of 717
What is the fair market value of the M650VSE? And what will it be in a few weeks or months?

The Vizio Store {http://store.vizio.com/via-hdtvs/m650vse.html?___SID=U} is listing it roughly at the same price as Walmart and Amazon, while BJ Wholesale has it for a couple hundred less but is currently out of stock. Just a few days ago many bought it on Black Friday sales at Sam's Club (and others who price-matched) for just 2/3 of the current Vizio-Walmart-Amazon price. Should one pay the current asking price or wait until it approaches the BF Deal price? If waiting is the choice then how long should that take?

I know that nobody has a crystal ball, but I haven't tracked large panel prices in the last few years and I'm hoping for some insight from those of you who are knowledgeable of the trends. I knew the Sam's Club Online BF sale was a good deal and successfully bought one then only to have it arrive with a fractured panel. They have refused to replace it and insist that a refund is my only option, so I am now shopping for another bargain. I'm not in a hurry and would be delighted to hear anyone's opinion regarding pricing.
post #448 of 717
Quote:
Originally Posted by MindKntrl View Post

This is interesting, I'm using mine with the 1020K and have had no issues to date..
Quote:
Originally Posted by cboothe View Post

Please share what firmware your TV is on. I'm using a short HDMI cable and have even swapped out HDMI cables with no change in symptoms.
Chris

Curious:
Do either of you have your WiFi (not an actual cable plugged in) on the TV configured to connect to your network?

Trying to isolate what is causing issues on the TV and wondering if it related to the built in WiFi and a weak signal.
post #449 of 717
So mine finally arrived. Plugged it in more for testing to make sure I don't have a lemon because this one wont get permanently installed until the basement is finished in a month. First impressions of HDTV was that it had an awesome picture right out of the box. Then I watched the Giants/Redskins game. I didn't notice any banding but one annoying feature that even the wife notices was that when a player went in motion, they looked "jumpy" as they went across the screen. Tried messing a little with the motion settings but it didnt help much. Also notice the same thing with the "crawl" at the bottom of the screen on ESPN. One other thing that really made me nervous was some "blocking" that happened when they gave an aerial view of the field from the blimp. The whole field looked like Minecraft Blocks. It didn't happen again even with another aerial view so I'm gonna chalk that one up to a possible bad feed as there were some audio/video issues during the broadcast. Overall I love the picture. I'll have to go back and check out some of the recommended settings to see if I can get the issue with watching football resolved. I'll post some pics of it sitting in front of (and below) my 47" Visio just because the contrast in size is crazy.

Thanks for all the information in this thread. It helped make my decision to pick this TV up at the great deal Sam's Club was offering. smile.gif
post #450 of 717
Quote:
Originally Posted by k_rock View Post

Curious:
Do either of you have your WiFi (not an actual cable plugged in) on the TV configured to connect to your network?
Trying to isolate what is causing issues on the TV and wondering if it related to the built in WiFi and a weak signal.

I'm using WiFi. I have a strong WiFi signal though. I'll try disabling it and let you know the results.

Chris
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