Originally Posted by NorCalJason
You're on the right track.
Typically it's distortion that blows speakers. Distortion results from clipping at the amp, where you're demanding more than the amplifier can give. This will result in blown speakers (very commonly, tweeters).
"Reference" level is 105db. And that is very loud.
Your best bet is to invest in a good power amplifier that happily drives your speakers to 105db in room, without breaking much of a sweat. Something else to keep in mind... A good subwoofer handling all the bass tasks will really free up an amplifier. It's the bass frequencies that are most demanding...
Since going separates isn't an option for you, the next best thing is high-end Receivers...
Yes, I have a powered sub (temporary brand one till I can get a Sonus Faber quality level sub, but thats another thread, as again, I can not find a Vener series sub). In any case, the Sub being used and that will be used will be powered.
So unless I am doing this wrong, that calculator said it will take 24 watts to give me a 105db SPL at my listening point with these 89db speakers. But it did not ask me for ohms, which I thought is weird. Also, it asks for how many speakers, I put how many for all the speakers, not just the 2. Because in the end, I will have 7.1 speakers and I want to be prepared. I'm just unsure if this is causing bad readings for my wattage need. BUT according to the specs chart at Sonus Faber, all the Vener series I will be adding are around 89db as well (the Vener 1.5's and Center), so maybe this is accurate. UNLESS, I decide to go with different speakers as my surrounds - as the 1.5's are kinda large for surrounds IMO.
In any case, I find it strange that as I grew the wattage, the Db SPL listening point did not grow much at all... from 24 watts to 1,000 watts the difference was 105db - 120db approx.. ha ! Funny. So basically I am still confused as to the wattage needed for it. On the Sonus Faber specs page, it says recommended wattage for these 2 speakers are 40-250 watts without clipping. For the 1.5's and center I may be getting down the road it is 30-150 watts without clipping. But is this for each speaker ? Or the pair ? Without clipping ?? Whats that suppose to mean ? And do I want to go towards the high side or the low side of the recommendation ? And to the amp side, does this mean per channel ? Or total ?
If I add it all up as "per speaker" and use the highest side of the recommendation, it equals to 1,250 total watts (this is not including sub, but if its powered, I can leave it out of the equation ? no ?). 1,250 watts is a lot more than 24 watts lol - So what is going on here. And on top of all that, what is the general rule of thumb for after you find your needed wattage, what do you add to that for the "not breaking a sweat" addition rule ?
Originally Posted by DonH50
@JoelxD: You said "I am only familiar with pro audio gear, and we like things all Class A." So, I was talking about pro audio gear, the type used in sound reinforcement live sound) and some studios. That is what most people mean when they use the term "pro audio", though some at least give a nod to the studio (I have done live sound and studio work) in the primordial past).
Thanks for clearing that up Don,
Yea, sorry for me not being more clear, I did mean Pro Audio gear in the Recording Studio
realm. Not Live gigging Pro Audio gear. They are quite different. Live stage gear is less into audiophile level sonic quality BUT a ton much more ruggedly built for moving and stuff. Those are the 2 main differences in the 2 fields. I do deal with both quite commonly. I just refer to the recording studio gear when I get into anal audiophile listening/recording level stuff.
Good to hear your a fellow recording/live show guy :-) May be in the past, but probably gives you forever lasting great memories --
Originally Posted by DonH50
I am not sure I have seen a pure class-A pro audio amp (probably forgotten, but they are certainly not common). I have owned and heard plenty of pure Class-A audio gear (of course, how long it stays in class A with a low load is another story). Most such units are now well out of my price range. Most higher-power amps are biased enough into class A that I seriously doubt you could tell when they slide in to class B, and a lot of class D gear has gotten amazingly good.
I guess I better clear this one up too, sorry, but I did mean "PreAmps", not "Amps". As lame as it sounds, I still really don't know the difference. They both amplify sound - lol. I know "Pre" means before, but... yea.. Anyway, I admit, I've seen little to no Class A Amps, but all our PreAmps we buy for our signals (Microphone, Line, Direct In Guitars, etc..) are all guaranteed Class A circuitry. Again, I apologize, I meant to say PreAmps. Though, my non-tech mind just figured whats good for PreAmps must be good for Amps - no ? Ha !
Either way, thanks for the great information on the classes and stuff. I see your point. If its built right, would anyone even hear the slide into the other ? Hmmm... I like it, I understand.
Originally Posted by DonH50
Starting today, I would buy a Denon 4311 or 4520 with Audyssey XT32 and see how it does, then get an amp only if really needed. By far the highest distortion in any system comes from the speakers, and by far the largest frequency variations are caused by the room. Preamp and amp distortion (whether combined in an AVR or separates) is pretty much in the mud.
Looking at it now and reading all the specs. Pretty impressive. Do you know what Class its amp(s) are ? Oh and when it claims 170 watts per channel and has 9 channels, is this a 170 watt amp total ? Or a 1,530 watt amp total ? How do they calculate that ?
Man, very good point about amp/preamp distortion not being a factor in a set up like this. I can see that being true to a degree as long as it wasn't ugly. And I do agree, room acoustics and treatment is the largest noticeable thing, bar none.