Crazy cheap sonosub build

Hey I need someone to point me to a sonosub build guide that I can use as a reference. I am planning to build a super small budget sonosub plant stand as an xmas gift for my dad. I pulled this plate amp off of an old sub from a kenwood htib subwoofer. It claims 100 watts on the back, I'm not sure how true that is but it's heavier than my bash 300. So I was thinking of using this cheap dayton driver since it has a 120 watt rms, and it's cheap.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-488

I guess I would tune it around it's fs of 24hz. I figure if this plate amp can put out 60 watts, then I'm only short 3db's of this drivers potential output. The model number on the amp says sw-36ht.

Hmm I downloaded the manual and it says 120 watts rms, who knows...

Thanks for your input LTD02. I didn't mention what else I was using. I have some leftover plywood from my lilmike f20 and was going to use a square top for the enclosure, and have some 4" diameter pvc left over from a ported enclosure. I'm running off of scraps here, to keep the budget low. For the sonotube, I'm not sure how to finish it. He doesn't really care that thing look nice, so I may just spray paint it. I'm under the assumption that I can just run PL on the rim of the sonotube and place a square piece of stained plywood on top of it. I usually use winisd pro, but is there a better program for cylinders? I'm fine with calculating the internal volume with pencil and paper of a cylinder, but wasn't sure if I should be taking a different path.

And what is your opinion on the salvaged amp? I'm going to try it out, and if it doesn't work, I'll just have to up the budget and grab something cheap but better. And do you have any other suggestions for really cheap drivers, this would be used mostly for music to compliment his mains. I'm unsure of the brand, but each tower has 2x 8" drivers, a mid and a tweeter. I'm not sure if it's his amp, but they lack bass compared to some towers that I have with 6" drivers.

And if you're aware of some, could you link me to some threads of successful sonosubs with finishes, because my searches just result in "noobs" asking questions. No offense to the noobs, but I understand how to calculate volume and model a ported sub. I'm used to working with wood / mdf, this cylinder deal is new to me.

Damn that's a lot of questions :P

It does look better, but I'm working with 100 watts, so I wouldn't be able to take advantage of that drivers 300 watts rms.

Alright, I could only find 12"D sonotube unfortunately, so I have to go with the 10" version of this driver:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-486

It looks like I can get a 2.5ft^3 enclosure with a 4" diameter, 14" long port, tuned to 28hz. Around the tuning I'm getting 50ft per second for port velocity, so just barely acceptable. I get a flatter response if I up the volume, but excursion really becomes a problem. I'm not used to modeling such a low cost driver... even with the 2.5ft^3 enclosure I'm seeing 9mm excursion at 40hz, which is quite a bit over it's 6mm xmax. I'm not sure what the xmech is, so I hope this isn't a problem. Here's some screens from winisd, this is with 100 watts:

Ok finally getting around to this and have a question. I see most people put the driver on the bottom. The problem is I could only find 12" diameter sonotube, so the port will have to be on the opposite side of the enclosure. So would it be ok to mount the driver on the top side? The top of the "plant stand" will be a few inches above the driver. I'm not sure if this will sound as good as downfiring, and I'm also not so sure about cone sag, because gravity could be helping the driver reach xmech.

I can attach the port to the top instead, I'm just not sure how to secure it, because it would just be hanging there held on by nothing but some PL.