or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › 5,000 watts, $699, until Nov 11
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

5,000 watts, $699, until Nov 11 - Page 2

post #31 of 97
Here is a pic with the top off showing the fan mod in the back and the light mod in the front.
post #32 of 97
Here is the American audio v6001 plus that they want you to pay 1199 for.
post #33 of 97
v6001 channel 2.jpg 22k .jpg file v5001 channel 2.jpg 14k .jpg file

Here are two pictures from the American audio site showing the sale of individual parts for the American audio v6001 and v5001. This is the whole left or right channels.

It would appear Cerwin vega started out using the amplifier boards from the v5001 plus in the CV 5000, but immediately afterward changed to the V6001 board. This can easily be seen by looking at
the pictures in the attachments.

This is why I say even at full price these amplifiers are a good deat. No doubt easy to just buy a channel if you ever blow one, and 400 cheaper than the American Audio.

Both amplifiers weight in at 85 lbs as advertised, and are heavier than even the QSC RMX 5050
which has only 12 output transistors per channel, (same output transistors). Here is a pic of the QSC rmx 5050 with only 12 output transistors per channel. This is true for the crown xls 5000 and phonic
xp as well. At first cerwin vega probably just thought 12 per channel would be enough, as that's all QSc. and Crown were using, but then switched to 16. In either case both versions had American audio amplifier boards. The same amplifier is also sold in Europe as the HPA 5000.
post #34 of 97

http://www.sonovente.com/hpa-a5000-amplificateurs-p12648.htm

Also the link showing same.

All three amplifiers are the same and just have a different case. If you look at the cv 5000 toroid it says HPA 5000 on it. IF you look at the cv 5000 amplifier board you will see the markings for where the American audio v5001 plus ends and the v6001 plus begins. Same boards just one had two less output transistors .
post #35 of 97
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnplayerson View Post

When the amplifier reaches it's last light before clipping, which is -10 db, you are only using 10 percent of power of this amplifier, or about 300 watts per channel. The rest comes if you can reach clipping.

Say what? I don't understand this.
post #36 of 97
PAIN INFLICTION. output meters on amplifiers reach full output at zero db. These amplifiers and a lot of others have a minus 10 db level light indicator as the last light before the clipping light comes on, However we are not clipping unitil well over 10 db more output from that level, It takes most of the power of the amplifier to get to the zero db level from the minus 10 db level . At minus ten db you are only at about 10 percent of amplifier rated power.

Most pro amps do not show watts per channel in conjunction with the db level indicator. If they did you would see that this is true. For example I have some Yamaha mx 1000 amplifiers here rated at 260 watts per channel, and the meters will show both zero db as well as the 260 watt output. At minus 10 db however, the mx 1000 is only putting out 30 watts per channel , and it shows this on the meter.

Most amplifiers don't use anywhere near there rated power and are laughing at the minus 10 db level. It would be nicer if they included minus 3db and zero db before the clipping light,
post #37 of 97
'

AS you can see at minus 10 db I am only at 30 watts , at minus 5 im at 100 watts, and at zero db, im at full output. 260 per channel on this amp.
Well over half the power of the amplifier is used only at or near full output, and this is true for All amplifiers.
post #38 of 97
Thanks. John what fans did u use. ? I got 2 of these amps and I love them.. but the stock fans are just to much.
Also Sonic fiber has them for $ 719. With there 10% off codes..
post #39 of 97
Thread Starter 
good info jp. has anybody actually tested them yet as in a formal benchtest of some sort? i'm curious about how much power they actually deliver in 4 ohm bridged mode (or 2 ohm stereo mode both channels driven).
post #40 of 97
Dank 1209, I bought the fans for 29.00 for a four pack. They are 0.16 amp rating, from great deals club on ebay. They are coolermaster. Don't buy fans from china as I tried them first and they are chttp://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-4-CoolerMaster-120mm-Fan-Blue-LED-A12025-12CB-3BN-F1-/310393031806?pt=US_Computer_Case_Fans&hash=item4844ddcc7erap. Heres the link.
post #41 of 97
If you want to do the lights these are the onhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/360619383519?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649es IProcessed By eBay with ImageMagick, R1.1.1.M2b used, you can cut the lights off three at a time, only need 12 of the 24 leds anyway. Don't use more than 12 as it will be too much ma consumption.
post #42 of 97


I just switched most of my subwoofer boxes. You can see my retired marathon ma 5050 amplifiers, not plugged in with dust on top:). I got so many sealed subs, So I decided to go ported on the 15 inch strokers and T2s. The best recommendation I can give the cerwin vega amplifier is the fact that I wish I never bought marathons.
They suck out once to start going into that upper minus 10 db level. I thought it was because I was pushing too much sub audio at first, but after putting the cv 5000s to the test I found out it was because the marathon is a crap amplifier. I was keeping sub 30 hz rolloff with the marathons, but now I keep the rolloff at 20 hz. NO PROBLEM to push four Alpine swr 10d4 to their maximum output lol.
post #43 of 97
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnplayerson View Post

PAIN INFLICTION. output meters on amplifiers reach full output at zero db. These amplifiers and a lot of others have a minus 10 db level light indicator as the last light before the clipping light comes on, However we are not clipping unitil well over 10 db more output from that level, It takes most of the power of the amplifier to get to the zero db level from the minus 10 db level . At minus ten db you are only at about 10 percent of amplifier rated power.

Most pro amps do not show watts per channel in conjunction with the db level indicator. If they did you would see that this is true. For example I have some Yamaha mx 1000 amplifiers here rated at 260 watts per channel, and the meters will show both zero db as well as the 260 watt output. At minus 10 db however, the mx 1000 is only putting out 30 watts per channel , and it shows this on the meter.

Most amplifiers don't use anywhere near there rated power and are laughing at the minus 10 db level. It would be nicer if they included minus 3db and zero db before the clipping light,

Ok got it! Thanks for clearing that up for me.
post #44 of 97
The $719 price is the best I have seen. Thanks for the info.
post #45 of 97
I bought all 4 of my cv 5000s at sonic fiber. I especially recommend them for Canadians as they will ship Dhl. so only 10.00 clearance fee with the taxes, and I had the amplifiers in 3 days. They also know how to ship to Canada. I have recommended them on my other threads. Was not long ago, there was a lot of devastation in that area also, so lets try sending some business to that area. They put them up on ebay with the best offer option also.
post #46 of 97
They have a make an offer button on there web site too.so a guy might get a better price yet. I got my my first 2 at musicians friend for $ 680.00 each .Feb.. presidents day sale 15% off . I'm running them bridged .into a pair of jtr captivators .I can run them hard for 2 hrs. And there still room temp. I got 4 lms 5400 ultras that I haven't had time to finish. Hopefully soon.!!!!! I'm going to try one per channel.at 4 ohm. If that don't cut it. I'll buy 2 more. Cv 5000's. And run them bridged . Was looking at the Lab. Clones. But too risky for me.
post #47 of 97
http://en.audiofanzine.com/dual-channel-power-amp/hpa-electronic/A.5000/user_reviews/
A few more opinions on the HP 5000:)))) or cv 5000.

Danke I always wanted to try the lms as well but 900 a pop has stopped me so far. Hopefully two 15 inch Rockford fosgate T2s, can keep up with one:)))

I have had interest in other amplifiers as well, but everytime I double think about it, I just say buy some more of these CV 5000, They are just the best bang
for the buck.
post #48 of 97
JP. I hear ya. $925. Was too much for me. Too.. I had planned to go with. Cht. 18.2s. Or the daytons or SI. Route.and do the flat pack cabs from diy sound group. BUT. A fellow. Avs member that was close by. Had 1 new in the box lms 5400 and 4 cabs.that where beautiful black oak woodgrain.. and a price a couldn't turn down.and parts express had them on sale for $ 850 It was a sign:D. Home theater budget . Went out the window.
post #49 of 97
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dank1209 View Post

JP. I hear ya. $925. Was too much for me. Too.. I had planned to go with. Cht. 18.2s. Or the daytons or SI. Route.and do the flat pack cabs from diy sound group. BUT. A fellow. Avs member that was close by. Had 1 new in the box lms 5400 and 4 cabs.that where beautiful black oak woodgrain.. and a price a couldn't turn down.and parts express had them on sale for $ 850 It was a sign:D. Home theater budget . Went out the window.

Man I bet that is sweet! But.....I don't believe you until you post visual proof! wink.gif
post #50 of 97
I Agree, I love seeing pictures...... A few were interested in how to do the fan mod. Anyway its super easy. 1. Take the top off the amplifier with the unit unplugged!!. 2. Remove screws from the fans. 3. unplug the fan on the right and remove. 4. Do not unplug the fan on the left, cut wires one inch before the fan, and remove fan. 5. Pull fan wires out of retaining ring on amplifier board. 6. Fray the wires so you can see a half inch of metal. 7. Get out your two 12 volt 0.16 amp cooler master fans. 8. Install them with screws from cerwin fans. 9. Cut wires on fans and fray so you can see half inch of metal. 10. Joint the positive lead of one fan to the negative lead of the
other fan. (use extra wire if necessary. 11. hook up the remaining negative lead of one fan and positive lead of the other fan to the fan power wires. (you may solder or just twist and tape with electrical tape. 12. plug in amp and turn on power to test, Fans should run quiet as a mouse and four leds on each fan lit.

Now that you can't hear the fans its nice to have the leds, as if the fans stop working so will the leds, so you will know if your not cooling your amp. .
post #51 of 97


Easy view of the cooler master fans.
post #52 of 97


Now lights is same as fans, Here you just use the other fan wires you never used in the fan mod and hook up the 12 volt lights in the same fashion. I put some silicone on the lights and glued them to the bottom of the case. Can now turn off the lights and enjoy the nice mood lighting lol smile.gif))
post #53 of 97
I hope to have one together. This weekend . If I can get some chores done. I'll post some pics for sure. Thanks for posting pics and instruction on fan mod. And lights. I'm sure it will be useful. Sorry for hi jacking your thread LTD.
post #54 of 97
Thread Starter 
no worries. all great info.
post #55 of 97
Things like this | laugh about the most........ Check out the crest audio repair centre
http://soundforums.net/junior-varsity/5567-crest-repair-center-needed.html
post #56 of 97
There is another trick to cool your amps if you don't want to cut the wires off your original fans. You can just remove and unplug the fans. Then install the 12 volt fans and hook the wires up to an external ac/dc 12 volt adaptor in parallel, neg to neg, pos to pos. You can sneak the wires in threw one screw left off one of the fans. Not a bad fix, that can be reversed.
post #57 of 97
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnplayerson View Post

There is another trick to cool your amps if you don't want to cut the wires off your original fans. You can just remove and unplug the fans. Then install the 12 volt fans and hook the wires up to an external ac/dc 12 volt adaptor in parallel, neg to neg, pos to pos. You can sneak the wires in threw one screw left off one of the fans. Not a bad fix, that can be reversed.

Or you can just do it the right way, which can also be reversed and doesn't eliminate the RPM sensor or PWM circuitry.
post #58 of 97
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnplayerson View Post

I Agree, I love seeing pictures...... A few were interested in how to do the fan mod. Anyway its super easy. 1. Take the top off the amplifier with the unit unplugged!!. 2. Remove screws from the fans. 3. unplug the fan on the right and remove. 4. Do not unplug the fan on the left, cut wires one inch before the fan, and remove fan. 5. Pull fan wires out of retaining ring on amplifier board. 6. Fray the wires so you can see a half inch of metal. 7. Get out your two 12 volt 0.16 amp cooler master fans. 8. Install them with screws from cerwin fans. 9. Cut wires on fans and fray so you can see half inch of metal. 10. Joint the positive lead of one fan to the negative lead of the
other fan. (use extra wire if necessary. 11. hook up the remaining negative lead of one fan and positive lead of the other fan to the fan power wires. (you may solder or just twist and tape with electrical tape. 12. plug in amp and turn on power to test, Fans should run quiet as a mouse and four leds on each fan lit.

Now that you can't hear the fans its nice to have the leds, as if the fans stop working so will the leds, so you will know if your not cooling your amp. .

I assume by "super easy", he means that you better have some experience with this sort of thing. lol

Thanks for the information and hopefully I don't mess my unit up if I end up going this route.

Did I miss where to get the fans?
post #59 of 97
Just to ask a question that I'm not sure has been answered, do we have a definitive measurement of the roll off <20Hz of the CV5000?

The spec seems to indicate +/-3dB 5Hz-50Khz (and the American Audio v6001 that is apparently near-identical has the same spec but also +/-0.5dB 10Hz-28kHz) but I can't find any post that says that is definitely the case!


The Clone of the LG amp is seemingly flat to 2Hz but I don't trust the reliability (and it's a lot of money that I can't afford to 'risk' on a not-100% reliable proposition) so the CV5000 would seem to be the next best thing, although seemingly without the extreme extension?
post #60 of 97
I emailed cv before I bought my two. They said the -3 db. 5hz was correct.but I haven't seent any tests on here .member Carp has lot's of graphs of his system .useing. the cv 5000 to drive 8. 18s I know he's down in the single digets. Might look at his threads
I using mine on a pair of ported caps for now.
Edited by Dank1209 - 8/14/13 at 11:32am
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: DIY Speakers and Subs
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › 5,000 watts, $699, until Nov 11