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HDMI over CAT 6 wall plates with IR — IR not working

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 
So if you were to head over to monoprice and search for item 8008 you'd see the wall plates I'm using.

The HDMI part works great. It's the IR part that's giving me fits.

When I hook up the cable to a GLobal cache iTech to the sender side, and IR repeater with an eye to the receiving end, the led of the IR head that's supposed to attach to the component on the receiving end is glowing bright red the entire time rather than the occasional blinking red when it senses an IR signal.

Actually, even if nothing is plugged into the IR port on the sender side, the receiver side IR emitter head lights up red the entire time.

Needless to say, no signals get through. Not even a basic turn on/ turn off.

And I gotta say, I'm stumped.

Any thoughts?
Edited by chirpie - 11/11/12 at 3:49pm
post #2 of 9
Are you using a "mono" or "stereo" 3.5mm cable connector? If the Monoprice sender is expecting that jack to be an IR receiver - it's a 3-signal plug (power, ground, signal). The emitter outputs are 2-signal (signal, ground).

The solid red indicates to me that signal-power may be shorted together as a result of using a mono cable...

Jeff
post #3 of 9
Thread Starter 
This is what I like to call a silver bullet answer. :-)

It's a stereo plug on the sender side that plugs into the wall plate and mono emitter plugging into the receiving end.

All I have are mono emitters to plug in on the receiving end.

Can I use a mono plug on the sender side or do I need to find different emitters for the receiving end? (stereo emitter)

Thanks so much. :-)
Edited by chirpie - 11/11/12 at 12:15pm
post #4 of 9
You may be able to use a stereo 3.5mm cable to hook an emitter output. This will depend on the pinout of the connector on the Monoprice IR receiver input, and whether the emitter output strikes only the ring and not the shaft of the jack... Or you may have to fashion a cable to tie the 2-signal emitter output to two of the three pins on the IR receiver input.
post #5 of 9
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the ideas, they're appreciated!
Edited by chirpie - 11/11/12 at 3:48pm
post #6 of 9
If you are using the iTach's output and going directly to the Monoprice, you cannot just use a simple cable. They are not compatible. They sell a cable specially designed for this purpose...you can get it on Amazon and here's the manual.
post #7 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vyrolan View Post

If you are using the iTach's output and going directly to the Monoprice, you cannot just use a simple cable. They are not compatible. They sell a cable specially designed for this purpose...you can get it on Amazon and here's the manual.

That was my first thought. But if he's getting a solid "on" emitter, I think he's got other issues. I've hooked the iTach output to a few devices without the Xantech cable with success, but yes, he should probably expect to need the compatibility cable at some point, too.
post #8 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vyrolan View Post

If you are using the iTach's output and going directly to the Monoprice, you cannot just use a simple cable. They are not compatible. They sell a cable specially designed for this purpose...you can get it on Amazon and here's the manual.

That was my first thought. But if he's getting a solid "on" emitter, I think he's got other issues. I've hooked the iTach output to a few devices without the Xantech cable with success, but yes, he should probably expect to need the compatibility cable at some point, too.
Interesting... Without the various compatibility cables/adapters, I've gotten the solid emitter...I was assuming the power from the receiver port (since it think it will have to power a receiver) was somehow coming back and being seen as a constant signal. /shrug I do think you could probably create your own cable for it by reading and properly following the pinout/wiring instructions on both devices.
post #9 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vyrolan View Post

Interesting... Without the various compatibility cables/adapters, I've gotten the solid emitter...I was assuming the power from the receiver port (since it think it will have to power a receiver) was somehow coming back and being seen as a constant signal. /shrug I do think you could probably create your own cable for it by reading and properly following the pinout/wiring instructions on both devices.

That's my assumption, too, that power from the receiver port is shorted to signal on the emitter output. I thought the compatibility cable was to deal with voltage differences (5V vs. 12V IR), but now that I think about it, the cable will also deal with the cabling mismatches, since the opto-isolators will receive power from the receiver-input side. So that probably is his best bet...

Jeff
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