Official LG XXLM7200 Thread - Page 19

I really haven't used any of the smart features yet, not really a concern or big point for me at all. But when I did try I used the youtube app, it was incredibly slow, the first time I tried to play an HD video and it started lagging so i just gave up and went on with what I was doing. Now yesterday I tried youtube again for something and it wouldn't even load after searching. Could it be my wireless connection or something with the TV? I haven't tried after todays update, so we'll see what happens tomorrow. Off to bed now.....

Same as what I listed above. I only use Input HDMI 1 because everything feeds though my Denon AVR-1712. I typically try and find a happy medium for all content because I really don't like messing with once I've found something that works.

Is it me or are there wifi issues with this set? A few times wireless has dropped on me. When connected I try youtube and it is extremely slow. I switch to the Roku and streaming works fine.

Having same issue. I posted my experience below yours.

^ It may be an issue with the TV's YouTube app and DNS settings on routers. Some people have devices with the YouTube app (ps3) that won't function properly unless they set an open dns on their routers. Once they set an open dns, the Youtube app works efficiently.

I'm sorry: I do know how OpenDNS works, but I don't understand how what you're saying can possibly be true. The efficiency you're talking about (that you gain from OpenDNS) is for name resolution, and only name resolution. Not data transfer.

Yes, what you are stating is correct-"name only". I do not know why this makes a difference, but for some device apps it's been reported that it does...namely, the Youtube app for the PS3.

Hi Guys, I am awaiting arrival of my LG 60 lm7200 and appreciate everyone's input . Hopefully all goes well with my setup as I just sent my Hitachi RP 57 inch to a new home . They broke the stairs getting it out of the house. See you soon with the good news, Thanks, Ron

Did you ever get an answer to this question?

For all those intrested.......I decided upon this model after much research and debate but was fustrated at the $1699 price and mostly only available from bestbuy......HOWEVER!!............I checked PC Richards site and they DON'T have the model listed.......but went with my gut feeling and called anyway and asked if they could get it, or order it. Much to my surpise they said they could order it and for.........wait for it..........$1499!!! The down side is I have to wait 2 weeks for it to be shipped to my local PC Richards in New York but hey.........$200 dollars is $200 dollars!!! Now I don't know if this is a limited presidents week sale or if this is a permanent reduction in price. And as much as I can't wait to get the 60LM7200 I'll wait 2 more weeks to save the dough.........best buy would match it but they can't find a visual representation from PC Richards showing they are selling it for $1499, otherwise they would match it. But PC ordered it through their internal supply database and don't have the reduced price reflected on their website. Hope people can take advantage of it.

Live Plus info in posting below
Edited by Gnostic1 - 2/23/13 at 9:05am

Live PLUS is unique to LG and is there version of local dimming........the model is edge lit with local dimming and that is what their live PLUS is.

I was trying to figure this out too. I'm pretty sure you need to get an Optical Digital Audio Cable and hook it up to your AVR. I hope that's the case I just bought a 10' cable on Amazon for $6. How it will will work with the HDMI connection from my AVR to the TV i'm not sure. When i get it hooked up I'll post the outcome.

Looks like the only audio out is optical – useful when using the built-in apps.

I pretty much bought this as the cheaper alternative to the samsung 7100 series. I'm not going to post my display settings because my priority is brightness in my multi-window room, not blacksblacksblacks. So, I have the backlight cranked up, with otherwise minimally tweaked gamma, color balance, contrast etc. to suit my tastes. Don't see any of the flashlighting effects mentioned here in other posts.

Haven't tried the 3D.

Magic remote is interesting. Overall, I don't mind it. Seems faster for typing onscreen, at least.

Pleasantly surprised with the apps. Got a lot of "yeah it's bigger but how is it so much better than the other TV" from the wife until she discovered the built-in web browser that allowed her to pull up her yogatoday videos fullscreen (rather than airplay via laptop through appletv). No more complaints!

yes, optical out of the TV to optical in the AVR, check the input setting in the AVR which one is digital (CD on mine, DVD or one other as well -- go through select source of your AVR until you hear it) will get the TV sound to play through the AVR. Also the ARC return setting via HDMI 1 on the TV to your AVR/s should do the same.

What is the ARC for and how does it work? I have the 60 inch LG and the Dennon 2112ci which the back HDMI I have going to the TV says ARC.
Thanks.
Jamie

ARC = Audio Return Channel. This should send the TV's audio back into the AVR and out through its speakers. Eliminates the optical cable from the TV into the AVR. Just as HDMI sends the video/audio from the source to/thru the AVR, ARC return will send the Audio from the TV back down to the AVR. Your AVR has to support it though (and our TV does there is a setting ARC return on/off setting in the audio options). HDMI input no. 1 on the TV is where the HDMI cable should be plugged into.

I should add you may have to switch it on as well in your AVR (I think HDMI control ON), check your AVR's manual under ARC return). That and the actual HDMI cable must be HDMI 1.4 (not 1.3).
Edited by tbook - 2/24/13 at 3:07pm

Thanks for the great explanation. Is there a way to tell if the HDMI is 1.3 or 1.4?

Chances are you already got it if all your stuff is relatively new. Look on the actual cable there is white printing with specs. if it says "with ethernet" you're good to go.

So I returned my 60LM7200 a few weeks ago for an UN65ES8000. Wanted something bigger, so I dished out another $1k. What do you guys think of the PQ.



Gonna see if the LG I returned is still in the open box section of the store because it's sold out in all of Ontario.
Edited by esoxlee - 2/25/13 at 6:09pm

It's important to note that the Audio Return Channel has the distinct advantage of being in sync with the display----the display ensures this (it's the only device that can). So it's a way of removing the lipsync effect (audio-lag), as an alternative to simply using the S/PDIF out, which is *also* guaranteed to be in sync.

Is this a way that i can have Netflix on through the TV and still get the surround though the AVR?

Anything originating in the TV should give you surround out, even through the optical.

No matter what I can't get the ARC to work with my Marantz NR1403. I do have a 1.4 HDMI cord and it is connected to the tv input marked ARC.

It's a nuisance imo. Slow as hell. In fact I suspect you need to even go further and buy a high speed HDMI 1.4 cable. For the 2$ or whatever it is an opitcal cable is easier and quicker to setup.

For Marantz which I also have this is what I did:

1. ARC on the tv set to on
2. system setup-->hdmi setup-->hdmi control: on in the Marantz

then switch both the tv and the marantz of...then on so tha they connect

then wait...hit the home button the tv and go to an app or movie (i used 3d insects for fun) and play it, it will play and the sound will come out etc. hit come and wait if it is black screen, here it takes forever on mine (I suspect my hdmi cable).

then when you disable it again in the marantz you got to go back and reassign the input hdmi (if if its tv to the appropriate hdmi number). I only got to getting sound playing back from the tv via all of this, could get the cable to play normally and switched it all off all this vs. input assign one of the sources cd, dvd bd, other to optical and your done messing around. Just switch over to that source when watching any of the tv apps or movies from the tv and switch back to your normal source (tv) when watching cable.

Well, I finally had to return my 60LM7200. I liked most everything about this set. The features were great, loved the design. Was GREAT for gaming. The PQ was pretty good except for weak blacks (Expected on an IPS display) and one other flaw which resulted in the return: terrible screen uniformity. Horrible banding and DSE (dirty screen effect) combined with the fact that the right side of the screen was slightly darker than the left.

This set had some of the worst banding/DSE I've ever seen. Every panning shot of blue sky, desert, or snow was ruined by light or dark vertical or horizontal bands. I was even able to see it in closeups of faces, etc. As long as the camera was stationary everything was fine but any kind of movement showed the issue, provided the background was light enough. If all you ever watched was live-action, it wouldn't be so bad, but I also watch a lot of cartoons and anime. Flat, brightly colored backgrounds and characters combined with a lot of panning (especially in anime) was just painful to watch. This is where one side being brighter than the other was painfully obvious as well. Furthermore, the top and bottom of the screen have "shadows" extending 1-2" into the panel.

I hoped I had just gotten a bad one, so I took my gray slides and some test material to Best Buy to check out their floor model of the 7200. Not only was it just as bad, but the darkest and lightest bands were in the exact same places on the panel. I could only assume that exchanging for the same set would have a high probability of being pointless, so I ended up exchanging for a Sony 60EX645, whose floor model at least had reasonable banding and uniformity (few edge-lits are completely free from this issue). I've had it a few days and am working on calibration. It's too early to say if it will be any better overall. Buying a TV over the past few months has been the most unpleasant purchasing experience I've ever had because every single one I've tried has had some overt, visible or audible defect.. Buying a car and my house was far less annoying.

LOL! Great comparison, because buying a car and especially a house are freaking pains in the @$$. We'll look back on this era someday as the time When Things Were Rotten®.

I do have to say though, that the problem with knowing what to look for is that when you find it, you become absolutely unable to ignore it. I don't think my wife would give a crap about most of what drives avsforum members insane. Like me.

just to clarify, when you say "the screen", do you mean the actual screen area, or the bezel? Seems like a bad idea to be pressing on the screen, but if that's what has worked for everyone, I suppose it would be worth a try. thanks!