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Noobie questions about audyssey, spl meter, room treatment - Page 2

post #31 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonH50 View Post

Interesting that they show sound absorption coefficient greater than 1... I did not think that was possible; need to review the standards they reference.

edge diffraction losses. also. .. if no frame on panel == more exposed sq area of absorption (depth of panel x height)
post #32 of 37
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by FOH View Post

Would that work?
Not very well at all, as it's all about thickness off the wall. Upon examining that thing, it's only about 6" deep,... at it's thickest! Not to mention the high price. A 4" or 6" rigid fiberglass bass trap straddling the corner would perform much better and cost much less. This isn't mere conjecture, it's been tested. Yeah, the foam stuff would be great if it worked better, ....then the high cost may be justified. The foam would be nice and handy, easier to deal with etc., but it just doesn't cut it for LF and bass traps.
If you don't want to diy, then look at GIK, or here, or Ethan's products, or these here.
If you want to go all out, the best approach, fortunately also the cheapest, is loose fluffy fiberglass type stuff. You employ very thick approach, covering a corner or an entire wall. Just cut the batts, stack them up. You may need some netting or such to prevent sag and to physically contain everything.
Again, few small HT rooms have adequate bass trapping. The benefits are measurably smoother freq response, and measurably tighter response in the time domain. Subjectively, it yields tight, punchy and well delineated bass. Well worth the effort and seldomly pursued properly.
Good luck
Gik room kit looks barely affordable...but none fit in most areas of my room. are they all mountable?

as for fully fiberglass can u give ma link to what it looks like and how much? just curious but prolly not going to that route..not a fan of having shards of fiberglass in my lungs while i'm sleeping.
post #33 of 37
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonH50 View Post

FOH said to stay away from foam, yet you link to a site selling foam?
Interesting that they show sound absorption coefficient greater than 1... I did not think that was possible; need to review the standards they reference. Also note you need a stack of them in each corner.
We have installed Auralex LENRD corner absorbers that look very much like those in our church and I have been very dissappointed in their performance, especially at LF. Be sure to follow the comparison link on that website: http://www.foambymail.com/acoustic-foam-product-comparison.html YMMV.
Home Depot, Lowes, and similar places offer Corning 703/704 that will probably do a much better job for less, assuming you are willing to trim a sheet or cloth over it to dress it up, and mount a couple of sheets (4") 2" - 4" off the wall.
Mineral wool is another alternative, but is harder to work with and sheds more.
think i'd rather not diy. no time.
post #34 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stealth3si View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by DonH50 View Post

FOH said to stay away from foam, yet you link to a site selling foam?
Interesting that they show sound absorption coefficient greater than 1... I did not think that was possible; need to review the standards they reference. Also note you need a stack of them in each corner.
We have installed Auralex LENRD corner absorbers that look very much like those in our church and I have been very dissappointed in their performance, especially at LF. Be sure to follow the comparison link on that website: http://www.foambymail.com/acoustic-foam-product-comparison.html YMMV.
Home Depot, Lowes, and similar places offer Corning 703/704 that will probably do a much better job for less, assuming you are willing to trim a sheet or cloth over it to dress it up, and mount a couple of sheets (4") 2" - 4" off the wall.
Mineral wool is another alternative, but is harder to work with and sheds more.
think i'd rather not diy. no time.

Then try commercial products from sites that build their absorbers out of something besides foam.

Acoustic foam is made out of oil, and you know about what has happened to the price of that stuff!

Rock wool is made out of slag waste from steel mills, cotton batts are made from industrial and home waste. Glass wool is made out of rock and sand.

The plastic foam looks great and is easy to fabricate, while all the rest have to be faced with fabric or something like it to look decent.

Because the plastic foam is expensive, people who fabricate absorbers from it tend to go light on thickness and density to keep their prices looking competitive.
post #35 of 37
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by arnyk View Post

Then try commercial products from sites that build their absorbers out of something besides foam.
Acoustic foam is made out of oil, and you know about what has happened to the price of that stuff!
Rock wool is made out of slag waste from steel mills, cotton batts are made from industrial and home waste. Glass wool is made out of rock and sand.
The plastic foam looks great and is easy to fabricate, while all the rest have to be faced with fabric or something like it to look decent.
Because the plastic foam is expensive, people who fabricate absorbers from it tend to go light on thickness and density to keep their prices looking competitive.
Then I might look at Gik acoustics. They seems relatively and reasonably affordable. I think I would have to send in a diagram of my room becuz there only a few places where their stuff would fit. I'd ask them if they can custom cut them for me but not sure if there is extra charge for this and/or if the price reduces and/or they re-cut the remaining cutted material.
post #36 of 37
My room is concrete all over. If I just want to reduce the over liveliness of the room, is 2" thick batts (with about 80kg density) thick enough?
post #37 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylinestar View Post

My room is concrete all over. If I just want to reduce the over liveliness of the room, is 2" thick batts (with about 80kg density) thick enough?

You've actually got two problems - not only is the concrete too reflective, but it is also too rigid. I'd put up 8' studs on 16" centers, put drywall (reflective but flexible) over very other space and 4" batts spaced 4" from the wall covered with fireproof fabric over the remaining spaces. Make sure that there are absorptive pockets on both sides of each corner even if this means skipping a reflective space elsewhere in the wall..
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