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Dayton RSS460HO Reference 18" subwoofer sealed BUILD THREAD - Page 2

post #31 of 75
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fade to Black View Post

How is your house surviving your latest furniture addition?

So far no major damage, but a few of my wife's shelves fell off the wall back at the bar area. Surprisingly the glass did not shatter though. I have the rest of the week off after today to see what I can break next, she's going to hate me, LOL.
post #32 of 75
stereo, just a small amount, but it can be used to fill in gaps if your cuts are off by a little.
post #33 of 75
Thread Starter 
I'm seriously considering returning the Dayton 1000 watt plate amp and getting something better. I haven't even opened it yet, but hear PE returns are smooth. I'm a big fan of headroom and am positive I will be adding a twin sub ...sometime down the line. Buying a second amp for the second sub will be cost inefficient versus buying a stout multi channel amp right off the bat. So sounds like I really shouldn't be worried about using pro gear amps for ht? I'm not out of budget (yet, ha). Would prefer 300-500 range for a pro amp, but I could be convinced to bump up that goal for the RIGHT product. Any recommendations?
post #34 of 75
good thinking...f2b

one option would be a behringer inuke 6000dsp. it is $500, puts out around 2200 real watts per channel at 4 ohms, and has a full featured and easy to use digital signal processing.

2200 watts is a little too much for driver, but the dsp has a voltage limiter, so you could easily dial it back to about 1250 watts per channel. at that level, it should be safe.

with the pro amp, you also get rid of the high pass filter in the plate amp which you do not need and do not want.

not 100% ideal, but not too shabby. :-)
post #35 of 75
X2 on going to a passive pro amp based setup. Couple of options:

Beringer EP4000 would give you 650 a channel in 4 ohms or ~900 a channel (for 2 subs if you decide to go to quads) at 2 ohms. They typically sell for about 325ish new or 200-250 used. Great amp for the money.

If you think quads may be in your future, the Cerwin vega CV5000 seems attractive and very similar specs to my crown. They sell for 700-800 including shipping. I've seen them as low as 680 with a coupon.
post #36 of 75
Thread Starter 
Day 5:

Today was spent on cutting out the baffle. I really like using the Jasper circle jig.
day5a.jpg

Wife snapped a shot of me in action. Note the sophisticated dust collection system.
day5b.jpg

Flush mount baffle. Using the next size up in diameter on the jig would've resulted in a slightly larger cutout than necessary. One can always remove excess wood with sanding, while the opposite is difficult, better be safe than sorry. The diameter I ended up using was slightly tight and wouldn't fit the sub. I started out using sandpaper to remove the excess, but it proved to be a painstakingly long process. I switched over to hollowing out the MDF with a chisel and it was so much faster! Should have done this from the start.
day5c.jpg

Success. I felt pretty satisfied with this fit:
day5d.jpg

I was going to glue one more panel to the box, however, after removing the clamps from yesterday's work it's not exactly a tight fit. I can slide a utility knife blade through the crack. I don't know how well the Loctite PL expands... so I'm planning on recutting this panel. I shouldn't rely on the PL expansion, right?
day5e.jpg
post #37 of 75
How far off is the cut? You can probably get away with a 1/16th or so and sealing it off.
post #38 of 75
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

X2 on going to a passive pro amp based setup. Couple of options:
Beringer EP4000 would give you 650 a channel in 4 ohms or ~900 a channel (for 2 subs if you decide to go to quads) at 2 ohms. They typically sell for about 325ish new or 200-250 used. Great amp for the money.
If you think quads may be in your future, the Cerwin vega CV5000 seems attractive and very similar specs to my crown. They sell for 700-800 including shipping. I've seen them as low as 680 with a coupon.

Lots of recommendations here! Thanks! Tonight is my last night of my overnights stretch. Tomorrow morning 7 consecutive days off begin! I will read about the products you guys recommended.

As for you other question, the gap is probably a tad smaller than 1/16" but fits a utility blade on the bottom. At top the fit is pretty good, which will improve after clamping and glue.
post #39 of 75
"I don't know how well the Loctite PL expands..."

it can handle a puddy knife thickness no problem. it is rated to bridge gaps up to 3/8", but if your cuts are off by that much, i would re-cut. :-)
post #40 of 75
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

"I don't know how well the Loctite PL expands..."
it can handle a puddy knife thickness no problem. it is rated to bridge gaps up to 3/8", but if your cuts are off by that much, i would re-cut. :-)

Perfect. PL expansion it is then. This is what's left: top panel and the baffle. My goal is to do baffle first, then introduce the bracing, and then finally seal everything up with the top panel. Is a different approach more efficient?
post #41 of 75
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fade to Black View Post

Perfect. PL expansion it is then. This is what's left: top panel and the baffle. My goal is to do baffle first, then introduce the bracing, and then finally seal everything up with the top panel. Is a different approach more efficient?

I've wondered the same thing, and there are some useful photos in the master build thread if you browse through them.
post #42 of 75
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fade to Black View Post

As for you other question, the gap is probably a tad smaller than 1/16" but fits a utility blade on the bottom. At top the fit is pretty good, which will improve after clamping and glue.

Oh hell yeah, glue that bad boy with PL for sure. My bracing on my second box was off about the same amount and once glued on both sides I could stand on the bracing without the slightest amount of flex, LOL. That should give you a good idea. eek.gif
post #43 of 75
Thread Starter 
Since my last update I've had friends from Chicago visit me for thanksgiving. I haven't had any time to work on the project. They left a few days ago, but now it's my turn to go on a vacation, I'll be flying in to Seattle later today. This project will be postponed for a little while longer, unfortunately.
post #44 of 75
Thread Starter 
Eyeing the inuke 6000 dsp. For the inputs it seems it only has XLR, correct? What kind of equipment do I need to make proper connections? XLR to RCA females? I will still be using the AVR's subwoofer output jack, right? If I'm understanding this correctly I need to go from a single RCA type output (sub out on AVR to a L and R XLR inputs on the inuke)
post #45 of 75
Sorry, from back of receiver to the iNuke you need male RCA to male XLR:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/133650-REG/Comprehensive_XLRP_PP_10ST_EXF_3_Pin_XLR_Male.html

Monoprice has cables too.
post #46 of 75

You can also build your own cables, partsexpress has everything. This is what I used for my receiver to amp

 

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=092-366

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=100-280

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=092-110

 

1000

 

You will also need speakon connectors for the output, the amp doesn't have binding posts.

post #47 of 75
Thread Starter 
How do I go about splitting the subwoofer out cable from the AVR to L and R XLRs?
post #48 of 75
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrkazador View Post

You can also build your own cables, partsexpress has everything. This is what I used for my receiver to amp

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=092-366
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=100-280
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=092-110

Seems like too much trouble when you buy them this cheaply from Monoprice.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fade to Black View Post

How do I go about splitting the subwoofer out cable from the AVR to L and R XLRs?
You can use a RCA splitter though I don't think it's necessary. AFAIK, if you set the switch on the back to mono you only need to feed Channel A.
post #49 of 75
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the suggestions. Ok, so for the AVR sub-out to inuke I will use the following cable, which Stereodude recommended: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10244&cs_id=1024404&p_id=4776&seq=1&format=2

Parts express sells Speakon connectors, which come in 2 or 4 pole versions. Which one will I need? Here's a link to the 2 pole version. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=092-058

LTD02 mentioned that the inuke DSP has a voltage limiter. I downloaded the software to mess around with and under the configuration tab, under channel A/B I see a "Peak Limiter" digital software knob. Is this the "tool" that is used to lower the amp's output? Sorry I'm on a mobile device and can't post a screenshot. This is pretty important to me, since if I do end up with the inuke 6000 (for headroom), without the output limiter it will be too much power for my sub. Has anyone used this software feature?
post #50 of 75
Most amps with Speakon connectors use the 4 connector/pole version. They only use 1+/1- for Speakon #2, but offer 1+/1- & 2+/2- in Speakon #1. AFAIK, the 2 pole and 4 pole are the same with the 2+/2- contacts removed.

FWIW, I ended up using the 4 pole connectors in my last DIY build. I only hooked up the 1+/1- in the box mounted connector and in the cables I made.
post #51 of 75
is the 6000 the smart choice with these? they are 4 ohms and the 6000 wont handle a 2 ohm load so wouldnt you run into trouble trying to put more than 2 of these drivers on that amp? i can understand headroom, but it seems the 3000 or ep4000 would be a better match for just a pair of these wouldnt it?
post #52 of 75
Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post

is the 6000 the smart choice with these? they are 4 ohms and the 6000 wont handle a 2 ohm load so wouldnt you run into trouble trying to put more than 2 of these drivers on that amp? i can understand headroom, but it seems the 3000 or ep4000 would be a better match for just a pair of these wouldnt it?

Exactly. I was looking at that amp for my build but went with the EP4000 for that reason.
post #53 of 75
i went with the EP4k for my build as well. the Crown XLS 2500 is another solid option, Not that expensive and it will do 2 or 4 ohm
post #54 of 75
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sibuna View Post

i went with the EP4k for my build as well. the Crown XLS 2500 is another solid option, Not that expensive and it will do 2 or 4 ohm

I think "inexpensive" is an understatement for the EP4000's current selling point. At 275 I think it's a STEAL! I've been tempted to pick up a second just in case it's needed as a backup or something. tongue.gif So easy to get carried away with this damn hobby....
post #55 of 75
well they are back in stock at walmart. if you order now you can have it by the weekend biggrin.gif
post #56 of 75
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sibuna View Post

well they are back in stock at walmart. if you order now you can have it by the weekend biggrin.gif

I ordered my Ep4000 off Amazon for $275 and selected free shipping. I think that was on Monday or Tuesday and it is suppose to get here tomorrow. I was pretty happy with that deal. biggrin.gif
post #57 of 75
Thread Starter 
Days 6 & 7:
Had an awesome time in Washington. Love visiting Seattle and just the beautiful state in general. We visited Leavenworth for the tree lighting. Returned to Phoenix couple of days ago to find one of our cars stolen from the driveway... Police report later, at least I'm glad my truck is safe, which was parked next to the stolen Honda. Only liability on that car, my loss. Bummer.

Spent yesterday and today glueing in the oaken planks as bracing. Noobie mistake: I should've assembled the panels and the bracking planks together. Another "in retrospect" lesson learned. Assmebled the front baffle as well. Curing now.








Edit: added "Days 6 & 7:" to the post header
Edited by Fade to Black - 12/17/12 at 10:47am
post #58 of 75
did you glue/nail the vert/horiz supports to each other? or are they far enough apart that you dont have to worry about them chattering due to vibrations? hard to tell in the pic
post #59 of 75
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sibuna View Post

did you glue/nail the vert/horiz supports to each other? or are they far enough apart that you dont have to worry about them chattering due to vibrations? hard to tell in the pic

The supports are not connected to one another. There is space between everything in the latticework.
post #60 of 75
Thread Starter 
Day 8:

Drilled 1/4 inch holes for the binding posts.


Stuffed the insides with Acousta Stuff from PE.
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