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Official OPPO BDP-105 Owner's Thread - Page 71

post #2101 of 5544
12/31/12 at 3:30pm
hi there, i have gone through all the threads and really getting good information by the av members , i have one question, what will be the best possible way to hook a HSU-VTF15 sub to my oppo 105. i want my sub all the time with stereo playback...any suggestions? thanks.can i connect sub with the amp via high input terminals and LFE to the oppo same time cos my amp dont have LFE. bye
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Gear mentioned in this thread:

post #2102 of 5544
12/31/12 at 3:40pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichB View Post

I am not completely surprised because the Analog inputs on my Onkyo 5507 Preamp are far superior to the HDMI, COAX, or Optical.
 

How do you draw this conclusion when there are so many variables in making these comparisons?

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post #2103 of 5544
12/31/12 at 4:06pm
Àll he's doing is comparing multiple connections between the exact 2 components with all other factors equal, a conclusion is not that hard to get to. Neither of us said anything was best for anyone else; I posted my accidental findings with my system and he saw the same thing with his.
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post #2104 of 5544
12/31/12 at 4:18pm
Steve, thank you so much for addressing my concerns and providing so much info.
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevepow View Post

>>>>> I like some things about Audyssey, but also enjoy the raw unprocessed sound from the analog outs - I plan to use both and switch depending on my mood or until a clear preference emerges. To do this I connect Oppo.hdmi.1 to AV7701.BluRay/7.1 external inputs selected, Oppo.hdmi.2 to AV7701.DVD/HDMI input selected. I use the Blu-ray input for listening to the Oppo 7.1 (5.1 in my case) outputs and DVD input for listening to HDMI with or without Audyssey. To make sure DSD is working in either case, I set Oppo HDMI to "Split" mode - this is required for DSD over HDMI2 and also required for DSD over analog when any HDMI port is in use, otherwise Oppo HDMI Audio must be set to off - which you don't want to do.

That's an interesting idea, to use two different HDMI inputs in to the Marantz, one with HDMI video and audio, the other with HDMI video and 5.1 analog. This makes it much easier to toggle between listening through the Audyssey EQ and listening through the MCH DACs of the OPPO. Marantz doesn't make it particularly easy to select different audio inputs on the fly (you have to go through the Setup Menu). My only concern is that on pg. 55 of the Oppo manual it says:

Split A/V (recommended) – Use HDMI 1 OUT as the dedicated video output port and HDMI 2 OUT as the dedicated audio output port. This setting will ensure the best possible picture quality and the highest possible audio resolution.

I take this to mean HDMI 1 offers superior Video and HDMI 2 offers superior Audio. Is that correct?
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevepow View Post

>>>>> The dedicated Stereo output has a fairly different sound and I don't think you need "great" ears to recognize it. I have a Zone 2 I want to use, so I must use these outputs set to "Downmix" to have zone2 playback from my Marantz. If you are not using a second zone, you should spend some time comparing the 7.1 DAC to the stereo DAC (set both to FL/FR so they send the same audio) - easy to do with a stereo source and two different unprocessed (direct or pure) inputs on your Marantz - switch between them and the difference should be obvious.

Okay, I'm confused. If I want to use the 7.1 (or 5.1 in my case) analog outs of the 105 into the Blu-ray input of the Marantz for MCH listening, can I still use the dedicated stereo outs of the 105 into the CD input of the Marantz? That way when I just want to listen to Stereo music from my Mac Mini, I don't have to toggle through the input choices of the Marantz Setup menu. I can just go right to the CD input. And if I do this, do I want to select DOWN-MIX STEREO or FRONT LEFT/RIGHT?
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevepow View Post

>>>>>I am using REL Sub with both a SUB input and high-level (speaker level) inputs that can be used simultaneously. They each have their own volume control and the filter only affects the high-level inputs. By setting the REL x-over just below 40 and the Oppo and Marantz x-overs @ 80, the REL high-level inputs never get any bass unless I am listening to a stereo source in Marantz direct or pure. In this case, the REL picks up below 40 and blends well with my main speakers. If your SUB can do this, it may be worth sorting out - it can take a while to dial it in, but to me it is worth it.

I've been reading a lot about REL, and I'm intrigued. Which one do you have? I've got my eye on the R-328. I haven't gotten a new Sub in nearly 9 years, so I am certainly due. If I understand it correctly, it augments the bass from your two front speakers allowing for SW output when listening to a 2.0 source through a USB DAC, right? This would be great, as I really do miss the deep bass from my SW when I'm playing music out of the Music Server via a USB DAC (i.e. the 105). But what happens when you're listening to a dedicated 5.1 mix? Do you end up with "double bass" from both the High Level Input and the .1 Input?

Thanks again for all your help. I really appreciate it!
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post #2105 of 5544
12/31/12 at 4:36pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevepow View Post

On my RELs there is the normal SUB / Coax input, unfiltered and also the Speakon connector that uses the included cable for connecting the sub to the Left and Right speaker terminals. That connection has an adjustable low-pass filter and independent volume control. Dialing in the sound is a manual process - and a lesson in "less is more" to achieve the best result - with the idea being to fill in subtly below the frequencies the main speakers can produce. I really like the effect and would not buy a Sub I couldn't connect like that.

my JL Audio F113 also has the low pass filter and that is how I connect it for DSD and USB inputs. Not as accurate as using a proper crossover, but it does the trick for me.
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post #2106 of 5544
12/31/12 at 5:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tme110 View Post

Have you tried any software besides windows itself? I think the windows server is problematic and a waste of time. I could never figure out why it worked sometimes and not others. So I downloaded some other free software and never had an issue. I'm using foobar myself but honestly foobar is for people who really like to play with things and configure them how they want. Foobar is infinitly adjustable but it also takes work, I'm guessing J River or DBamp works fine with much less effort. I wouldn't waste time trying to go to win8 for this.

AssetPNP, as others have mentioned, from dBPoweramp works seems to work well and has quite a few features. I think that entire suite of tools from dBPoweramp is worth a look.
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post #2107 of 5544
12/31/12 at 6:09pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by leefarber View Post

Steve, thank you so much for addressing my concerns and providing so much info.
That's an interesting idea, to use two different HDMI inputs in to the Marantz, one with HDMI video and audio, the other with HDMI video and 5.1 analog. This makes it much easier to toggle between listening through the Audyssey EQ and listening through the MCH DACs of the OPPO. Marantz doesn't make it particularly easy to select different audio inputs on the fly (you have to go through the Setup Menu). My only concern is that on pg. 55 of the Oppo manual it says:
Split A/V (recommended) – Use HDMI 1 OUT as the dedicated video output port and HDMI 2 OUT as the dedicated audio output port. This setting will ensure the best possible picture quality and the highest possible audio resolution.
I take this to mean HDMI 1 offers superior Video and HDMI 2 offers superior Audio. Is that correct?

Yes - this FAQ is really helpful - http://watershade.net/wmcclain/BDP-103-faq - HDMI1 does offer better video, but to have split mode work correctly you have to have HDMI1 connect directly do the TV and HDMI2 to PrePro, otherwise you get both audio and video on both as described as "best effort" in the FAQ. Never-the-less, you still need Split Mode (or HDMI Audio Off) to get DSD. The exception to this would be if your Pre/Pro allowed you to matrix an HDMI video source to another input - my 7701 will not allow that.
Quote:
Okay, I'm confused. If I want to use the 7.1 (or 5.1 in my case) analog outs of the 105 into the Blu-ray input of the Marantz for MCH listening, can I still use the dedicated stereo outs of the 105 into the CD input of the Marantz? That way when I just want to listen to Stereo music from my Mac Mini, I don't have to toggle through the input choices of the Marantz Setup menu. I can just go right to the CD input. And if I do this, do I want to select DOWN-MIX STEREO or FRONT LEFT/RIGHT?

Yes, use the 5.1 for multichannel inputs and the Stereo DAC for CD if you like. Select Downmix for the Stereo Outputs - if there is nothing to Downmix (stereo source), it does nothing and if you play and SACD or DVDA, you will get Downmix on the CD Input. I would not do that though if I didn't want a second zone. I'd use the Stereo DAC set to L/R for 5.1 FL/FR - stereo sources should still play in stereo and with added benefit of the Oppo Crossover in place to send something to your SUB if the fronts are set to small. Or you can use a splitter to mult that output to the CD input as well.
Quote:
I've been reading a lot about REL, and I'm intrigued. Which one do you have? I've got my eye on the R-328. I haven't gotten a new Sub in nearly 9 years, so I am certainly due. If I understand it correctly, it augments the bass from your two front speakers allowing for SW output when listening to a 2.0 source through a USB DAC, right? This would be great, as I really do miss the deep bass from my SW when I'm playing music out of the Music Server via a USB DAC (i.e. the 105). But what happens when you're listening to a dedicated 5.1 mix? Do you end up with "double bass" from both the High Level Input and the .1 Input?
Thanks again for all your help. I really appreciate it!

I am using an R-328 with the Oppo/7701 and a T-7 with my NR1602. The other one I have - don't recall the model - is well over 10 years old. The R-328 is VERY powerful. I barely use the power it has, but I got a great deal on it that I could not turn down.
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post #2108 of 5544
12/31/12 at 6:23pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tme110 View Post

..like a whole new lever of speaker if I skip my AVR.

I have a 1602 as well in my office - I like it, but I run at very low volume never pushing it. I can imagine what you are saying; the amps in these sorts of devices are weak with lightweight power supplies - no guts. Since the 1602 has no multi-channel inputs or outputs, skipping it and going direct to the amp should give noticeably better sound - there's not much else to do - especially if you want to use the Oppo multi-channel DAC.
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post #2109 of 5544
12/31/12 at 6:58pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd68 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by MLM View Post

"we replaced our original 50’ Monoprice HDMI cable with their new RedMere HDMI cable (also 50’) which definitely gave us better PQ particularly better blacks and better detail"
"and those Redmere cables from Monoprice are indeed something special and do make noticeable difference in PQ (I noticed the deeper blacks and a deeper image)"
PugetsoundHD and audiofan1,
Can you please tell us if your experience was with the "Slim series" or "Ultra slim series" RedMere cables.
Thanks,
Len

I am also interested of the difference between the two. Maybe better shielding, improved connector and construction materials? These things could decrease externally induced noise, and losses of signal transfer. Which would be a good thing for your picture quality. But then it is primarily audio quality gains from higher quality HDMI cabled I thought?

Cheers! he he..

PS I AM NOT AFFILIATED IN ANY WAY SHAPE OR FORM TO ANY CABLE OR CONNECTOR etc. MANUFACTURER!

EDIT: I see these have an inline chip? of some sort for long runs, to reduce possible signal loss and degradation.
:

Todd:

 

I have the 60-ft slimline Redmere cable and it solved the HDMI handshake issue and random flashing colors i was having with my passive 50ft cable. It uses an inline chip from Redmere that has built in dynamic EQ and Error Correction(EC) to correct for the severe distortion losses caused by the thinner wire used in the cable. This kind of dynamic EQ + EC is quite common in the Telecomm arena where older 10M/100Mbit/s copper wire is 'cleaned up' to run at 10Gbit/sec, albeit for a much shorter distance. And the technology works very well indeed as evidenced in how well these Redmere cables are able to transmit high bandwidth signals at longer distances than passive cables that used thicker wiring(smaller gauge).

 

David

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post #2110 of 5544
12/31/12 at 7:03pm
Another vote for REL here. Strata III with Magnepan 1.6s. High level for music; low level for HT.
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post #2111 of 5544
12/31/12 at 7:50pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian-HD View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Perpendicular View Post

^^ To add to the above, looking at the description page regarding RedMere technology, they are designed for those that want a smaller cable design / longer runs, and will not replace a regular HDMI cable for sound or picture quality. Meaning, don't expect them to be better than a regular cable.

Why are they selling 6 feet red Mere with same tech? What's behind the tech to make RedMere directional cables, 1 end to Oppo and display?

 

 

Brian ...the links below give an easy understanding behind the deisgn of the Remere EQ chip embedded in the cable. One chip acts at the source end(Oppo) and another at the sink end(TV side). A basic explanation is that the source side pre-boosts up the high frequencies (by a dynamic EQ gain) on the clock and TDMS signals which are lost in transmission along the cable and the sink end 'recovers' these signals along with some error correction(i believe) to ensure perfect recoevery of the original data.

 

 

http://www.redmere.com/download.php?file=135

 

http://www.redmere.com/business/rm1689.php

 

and details on the algorithms used in their RM1689 chip .... http://www.redmere.com/download.php?file=630

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post #2112 of 5544
12/31/12 at 8:00pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by PugetsoundHD View Post

Hi, Len,

We're using a 50 foot Slim Series RedMere cable. We got it to replace a 50 foot Monoprice HDMI cable we purchased several years ago (because it was cheap). We weren't sure a 50 footer would work but it did. However, since we cannot run cables in the walls of our house we have to run it along the floor and across some stairs so wanted the easiest to install and "hide" so went with the RedMere.

Can't explain the improved PQ. Being a scientist I know that digital is either "there" or "not" but both my partner and myself asked each other "are you seeing what I'm seeing?" when we changed over. And we both agreed the PQ was much better with the new HDMI cable giving blacker blacks and more detail in shadow areas. We changed back and forth several times and got consistent results.

Under "you never know what you'll see and hear" Seattle skies, Gill
Quote:
Originally Posted by MLM View Post

"we replaced our original 50’ Monoprice HDMI cable with their new RedMere HDMI cable (also 50’) which definitely gave us better PQ particularly better blacks and better detail"
"and those Redmere cables from Monoprice are indeed something special and do make noticeable difference in PQ (I noticed the deeper blacks and a deeper image)"
PugetsoundHD and audiofan1,
Can you please tell us if your experience was with the "Slim series" or "Ultra slim series" RedMere cables.
Thanks,
Len

 

I agree with Gill here 100%. I've had the Pioneer KURO plasma for several years now which is considered the King of Black levels. I used to have the 50ft passive cable and when it gave me problems, i traded it in for the 60ft Redmere active cables and the blacks became inkier, if that makes sense. I'm not one given to hyperbole so i chocked it up to a Twilight Zone effect...why the colors look better using the Redmere active cable than the 50ft passive one.

 

Relieved to hear that others experienced the same improvement i did. Its one that i can't explain at all.

 

BTW

I enjoy your Seattle 'weather report' very much ...You give me reason time and time again never to move therebiggrin.gif! Rainy weather and gloomy skies all year longredface.gif.


Edited by dmusoke - 12/31/12 at 8:14pm
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post #2113 of 5544
12/31/12 at 9:35pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Perpendicular View Post

As the Website states:
I would think they sell the shortest distance cables for people who want a thinner cable too. I wouldn't know why that would translate into better quality picture / sound. Going from 24 & 28 gauge conductors to a 36 gauge? No wonder why they would need some form of technology built inside the cable to transmit all that information. Let us know if you decide to try one of the shorter lengths and what you discover with your setup.

I plan to when in stock. They are inexpensive to try anyway.
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post #2114 of 5544
12/31/12 at 9:57pm
to the poster that mentioned plasma i agree there is no better picture quality. It's like a perfectly painted picture compared to a scribble. The not only does the light bleed from an lcd display make the picture not as good but the main thing i consider when attesting to a plasma's astounding picture quality is the response time. I'm not talking about input lag. I'm talking about a specification that most companies don't post anymore except some vizio and lg. (LG has the best that i have found for lcd) and this spec is about the amount of time the tv takes to convert from a black to white or grey 2 grey. Most monitors post this actually. Black to white is the biggest color change in the spectrum. The faster the tv can do this, the less motion blur there will be. Most lcd's do this between 2-10ms which is noticeable to the eye. Most plasma's do this in less than .001 ms which is not noticeable to the eye. People are still driven to buy the 120hz or 240 or more but with an lcd they have to flip false remakes of what the tv gathers from the digital image into the existing image. Motion Vectoring. This creates what is most commonly known as the soap opera affect. Absolutely disgusting in my book and really really don't know why people still fall for that trick. I can't stand watching it and i won't.
When i go to buy an lcd (be it led or lcd) i look for the best response times with a 60hz at 60fps spec. So far i found that vizio is second and lg is #1. I had a 42" lg led that i paid $450 for even though it was a $900 tv smile.gif and i won't comment about how well picture quality is on it for a liquid crystal display but i will tell you that my wifes (weird saying that, we just got married this morning lol) dad was gruntin and moaning when he saw it as he had just bought a 240hz vizio the same size and spent twice as much. It made me smile.
once again sorry for not discussing the oppo...continue.
Side note, while i own an lg plasma and love it, i really love the pioneer plasmas as the lack of ambient light and darker blacks gives a much better representation of depth to the picture. My lg really looks like a painted picture with not much depth but boy is it pretty.
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post #2115 of 5544
1/1/13 at 12:17am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post


Brian ...the links below give an easy understanding behind the deisgn of the Remere EQ chip embedded in the cable. One chip acts at the source end(Oppo) and another at the sink end(TV side). A basic explanation is that the source side pre-boosts up the high frequencies (by a dynamic EQ gain) on the clock and TDMS signals which are lost in transmission along the cable and the sink end 'recovers' these signals along with some error correction(i believe) to ensure perfect recoevery of the original data.


http://www.redmere.com/download.php?file=135

http://www.redmere.com/business/rm1689.php

and details on the algorithms used in their RM1689 chip .... http://www.redmere.com/download.php?file=630

As an anti-subjectivist, I feel compelled to chime in here and say, if Monoprice backs this technology, it's real.

I'd never heard of it, so thank you all for mentioning it.

If only it had existed before we already ran the passive 45' HDMI cable to the Lumagen extender under the house and through the walls (to grandmother's house we go), it would have solved a ton of problems.
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post #2116 of 5544
1/1/13 at 12:21am
Quote:
Originally Posted by bthrb4u View Post

to the poster that mentioned plasma i agree there is no better picture quality. It's like a perfectly painted picture compared to a scribble. The not only does the light bleed from an lcd display make the picture not as good but the main thing i consider when attesting to a plasma's astounding picture quality is the response time. I'm not talking about input lag. I'm talking about a specification that most companies don't post anymore except some vizio and lg. (LG has the best that i have found for lcd) and this spec is about the amount of time the tv takes to convert from a black to white or grey 2 grey. Most monitors post this actually. Black to white is the biggest color change in the spectrum. The faster the tv can do this, the less motion blur there will be. Most lcd's do this between 2-10ms which is noticeable to the eye. Most plasma's do this in less than .001 ms which is not noticeable to the eye. People are still driven to buy the 120hz or 240 or more but with an lcd they have to flip false remakes of what the tv gathers from the digital image into the existing image. Motion Vectoring. This creates what is most commonly known as the soap opera affect. Absolutely disgusting in my book and really really don't know why people still fall for that trick. I can't stand watching it and i won't.
When i go to buy an lcd (be it led or lcd) i look for the best response times with a 60hz at 60fps spec. So far i found that vizio is second and lg is #1. I had a 42" lg led that i paid $450 for even though it was a $900 tv smile.gif and i won't comment about how well picture quality is on it for a liquid crystal display but i will tell you that my wifes (weird saying that, we just got married this morning lol) dad was gruntin and moaning when he saw it as he had just bought a 240hz vizio the same size and spent twice as much. It made me smile.
once again sorry for not discussing the oppo...continue.
Side note, while i own an lg plasma and love it, i really love the pioneer plasmas as the lack of ambient light and darker blacks gives a much better representation of depth to the picture. My lg really looks like a painted picture with not much depth but boy is it pretty.

Hey, there are two of us! I sure wish there were more.

Here's what a plasma fan at one of the few remaining high-end stores in northern California said: "Big-box stores killed plasma". By which he meant that in a cavernous warehouse lit by banks of flourescents, with LCD panels jacked up to insane brightness levels, poor old plasma sat there looking dingy. But take the plasma home and watch it in reasonable light levels (hey, when was the last time you watched a *movie* at a big-box store), and it all became clear. But sadly, to understand that, you had to have made the purchasing decision, and by then it was too late--you'd been conned into buying that flashy, sluggish, garish, clay-face, piece-of-junk LCD.

Please, people--if the showroom can't demo a display in low-light conditions, find a better showroom. Then you'll understand.
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post #2117 of 5544
1/1/13 at 3:21am
Quote:
Originally Posted by tme110 View Post

sorry for all the posts...
I've been using the oppo as a 2-channel preamp since it came out and I've been happy with it. But I realized something very surprising a couple of days ago and I've been checking it out all day today. I've been testing out some different speakers so I've been swaping them out and wiring things up in a way for me to do some A/B-ing. I'm using a Marantz NR1602 but also have it supplying a Emotiva XPA-200 power amp that I've been very happy with. I really only got the XPA because I wanted to try out some Magnepan's. But I have the oppo going straight to the XPA amp over XLR and the Marantz is connected thru RCA (with the OPPO- Marantz being HDMI). I also have the Marantz directly powering speakers on the B-speaker outputs. I only accidentally tested comparing the music coming from the XPA to the same speakers but with different inputs (it has a SE/Balanced input toggle switch) and truthfully wasn't expecting any real difference. But it is huge! Seriously like a whole new lever of speaker if I skip my AVR. I can't tell the difference between most of what people talk about and when I switch driver tubes on my tube amps I honestly can't hear any change but this was immediately and obviously noticable without even trying to hear a difference. I even switched them with a friend who knows and cares nothing about audio without telling him what I was trying to do and he described the same change that I heard.
I think everyone should try skipping their AVR/processor and see how it works. I bought the NR1602 because I liked the size but mostly because I only have 1 input (the oppo 105) and didn't want some huge ugly machine with 300 inputs I'd never want to play with. I got picked Marantz because I wanted something quality and it was a big step up from the Sony AVR I had before it. I could have bought most any AVR if I wanted it (well, I doubt I'd ever be willing to spring for the D2v). But I didn't expect it to take so much from the sound and had I read someone else posting this I'm not sure I'd have believed it. I realize it's a lower-end model but still... Curious if other AVR/processors would have the same effect. All the Marantz AVR's, including mine, use a 24/192 capable Saber32 DAC.

The 1602 is great as it allows for you to have a decent surround, linking it to a power amp it allows for amazing HiFi due to its unique (hot) switching capability. I have not seen this in other amps.
U r using HDMI to connect. Try using the 105's analogue outs into the 1602 to really compare what the Marantz does as a pre amp.
Cheers,
D
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post #2118 of 5544
1/1/13 at 3:24am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post


Brian ...the links below give an easy understanding behind the deisgn of the Remere EQ chip embedded in the cable. One chip acts at the source end(Oppo) and another at the sink end(TV side). A basic explanation is that the source side pre-boosts up the high frequencies (by a dynamic EQ gain) on the clock and TDMS signals which are lost in transmission along the cable and the sink end 'recovers' these signals along with some error correction(i believe) to ensure perfect recoevery of the original data.


http://www.redmere.com/download.php?file=135

http://www.redmere.com/business/rm1689.php

and details on the algorithms used in their RM1689 chip .... http://www.redmere.com/download.php?file=630

Thanks!
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post #2119 of 5544
1/1/13 at 5:19am
Quote:
Originally Posted by PugetsoundHD View Post

Hi, Len,
We're using a 50 foot Slim Series RedMere cable. We got it to replace a 50 foot Monoprice HDMI cable we purchased several years ago (because it was cheap). We weren't sure a 50 footer would work but it did. However, since we cannot run cables in the walls of our house we have to run it along the floor and across some stairs so wanted the easiest to install and "hide" so went with the RedMere.
Can't explain the improved PQ. Being a scientist I know that digital is either "there" or "not" but both my partner and myself asked each other "are you seeing what I'm seeing?" when we changed over. And we both agreed the PQ was much better with the new HDMI cable giving blacker blacks and more detail in shadow areas. We changed back and forth several times and got consistent results.
Under "you never know what you'll see and hear" Seattle skies, Gill
I

Mechnical Engineer can think of two reasons for this:

1) Routing of the cable is different - further away from power cords etc less EMI.

2) First cable had poor solder joints - large piece solder, does not bave to be that large when 18 wires in 18 HDMI cable are so close, can create EMI at at one or both cable ends.

I work in quality control and when we have electrical issue 80 percent of the time it is a bad solder joint.

Any Electrical Engineers out there to add to or refut?
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post #2120 of 5544
1/1/13 at 6:36am
Quote:
Originally Posted by wmcclain View Post

.srt files will work on local storage and SMB, but not over DLNA, which does not (usually? ever?) support them.
There is no subtitle file selection: the file has to be named the same as the title except for the extension. Must be in the same directory.
Character encoding in external subtitle files is limited to the 1252 code page, the extended ascii oriented to Western Europe. Embedded subtitles use utf8 which has wider font coverage in the player.
-Bill

Thx. I've been used to selecting the files manually so I completely forgot about the naming approach. Works like a charm of course. Another usability feat ticked for me.
Cheers,
D
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post #2121 of 5544
1/1/13 at 6:50am
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichB View Post

I might have given the UMC-200 a spin, but it has too few inputs and does not have balanced outputs.
I little bigger version and I might try one. I am not ready to put down 6K for a Preamp, that I want to do less, not more.
- Rich
Emotiva UMC-500 will arrive shortly. It's basically a UMC-200 with XLR outputs and will sell for $1,000

Quote:
Originally Posted by stevepow View Post

If all you are doing is playing stereo from the Mac, you should consider a Sonos system - I swam upstream for years and then finally got one - so liberating - now we finally get to easily enjoy our music collection.
Indeed a sweet way to distribute music. With one downfall: you're stuck to CD sound quality. No high resolution support.
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post #2122 of 5544
1/1/13 at 9:01am
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichB View Post

I am not completely surprised because the Analog inputs on my Onkyo 5507 Preamp are far superior to the HDMI, COAX, or Optical.
 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kal Rubinson View Post

How do you draw this conclusion when there are so many variables in making these comparisons?

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by tme110 View Post

Àll he's doing is comparing multiple connections between the exact 2 components with all other factors equal, a conclusion is not that hard to get to. Neither of us said anything was best for anyone else; I posted my accidental findings with my system and he saw the same thing with his.

First, he didn't make an explicit description as you do but stated that the digital inputs on his processor were inferior to the analog inputs.  (Pears are better than apples.)  

 

Second, there are too many factors to permit his conclusion except in defined situations.  With an excellent D/A in the source and a lousy one in the processor, there might be a different outcome than if the processor's D/A was greatly superior to the one in the source.  

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post #2123 of 5544
1/1/13 at 10:13am
In shifting from the stereo to MCH layer of an SACD, is there any way to do this other than to make the change in the Setup menu and then reinsert the disc?

Separately, I am finding that ejecting a Blu-ray and inserting an SACD freezes up the player and I have to reboot. Something to be addressed in a firmware upgrade?
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post #2124 of 5544
1/1/13 at 10:23am
real, not sure but someone mentioned that when they listen to a cd and turn off the player and then back on the players starts off where it left. Maybe if you disable this feature the oppo will clear its cache and not expect a bluray
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post #2125 of 5544
1/1/13 at 10:38am
Before asking, I've read through this entire thread noting several references about analog inputs and using the DACs on the Oppo players vs. the internal DACs on one's pre/pro units. I'm assuming if I use HDMI out on the Oppo players, it defaults to my DAC on my pre-pro anyhow. My pre-pro does not have 5.1/71 analog inputs, so I'm stuck with HDMI still wondering what player is better for sound quality. I may use the dedicated stereo out (RCA/XLR) of the BD-105 to a separate amplifier later on, but not sure yet. I'm still hoping for an intelligent answer to this question. Thanks in advance for your answers to the question below.

QUESTION:
Does the Oppo BDP-105 still have better sound quality vs. the BDP-103 when using HDMI only connections? If so, why and how?
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post #2126 of 5544
1/1/13 at 10:46am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Real View Post

In shifting from the stereo to MCH layer of an SACD, is there any way to do this other than to make the change in the Setup menu and then reinsert the disc?

You can use the "Audio" button on the remote to switch but you will need to eject the disc to change to the CD layer on Hybrid discs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by decooney View Post

Does the Oppo BDP-105 still have better sound quality vs. the BDP-103 when using HDMI only connections? If so, why and how?

No, theoretically, they are the same.
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post #2127 of 5544
1/1/13 at 10:46am
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevepow View Post

Yes - this FAQ is really helpful - http://watershade.net/wmcclain/BDP-103-faq - HDMI1 does offer better video, but to have split mode work correctly you have to have HDMI1 connect directly do the TV and HDMI2 to PrePro, otherwise you get both audio and video on both as described as "best effort" in the FAQ. Never-the-less, you still need Split Mode (or HDMI Audio Off) to get DSD. The exception to this would be if your Pre/Pro allowed you to matrix an HDMI video source to another input - my 7701 will not allow that.

Okay, so I'll use HDMI 1 for the Blu-ray input, on which I'll watch Blu-rays using HDMI audio sent via Bitstream from the 105 and decoded by the Marantz. This will allow for the best possible video, correct? Then I'll use HDMI 2 for the DVD input on the Marantz, which I will use exclusively for DVD-A and SACD, using the 5.1 Analog from the 105. That way when I want to hear the MCH music through the Oppo's DACs, I won't have to toggle through the Setup menu of the Marantz each time to select the proper inputs. Are there any downsides to this scenario?
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevepow View Post

Yes, use the 5.1 for multichannel inputs and the Stereo DAC for CD if you like. Select Downmix for the Stereo Outputs - if there is nothing to Downmix (stereo source), it does nothing and if you play and SACD or DVDA, you will get Downmix on the CD Input. I would not do that though if I didn't want a second zone. I'd use the Stereo DAC set to L/R for 5.1 FL/FR - stereo sources should still play in stereo and with added benefit of the Oppo Crossover in place to send something to your SUB if the fronts are set to small. Or you can use a splitter to mult that output to the CD input as well.

I'll use the dedicated stereo outputs on the Oppo for the CD input of the Marantz, which I will exclusively use for listening to 2-channel music from my Mac Mini music server via the USB input. I wouldn't be missing out on any crossover from the Oppo because it's not available from the USB input, right? Is this the way to go, or is there a better scenario? Bear in mind I don't use Zone 2 (or 3 or 4), and I don't plan on running straight DSD out of the Oppo (too many restrictions for a debatable benefit).

Thanks again for all your help and HAPPY NEW YEAR!

P.S. Seriously considering the REL R-328 now...
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post #2128 of 5544
1/1/13 at 11:03am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kal Rubinson View Post


First, he didn't make an explicit description as you do but stated that the digital inputs on his processor were inferior to the analog inputs.  (Pears are better than apples.)  

Second, there are too many factors to permit his conclusion except in defined situations.  With an excellent D/A in the source and a lousy one in the processor, there might be a different outcome than if the processor's D/A was greatly superior to the one in the source.  

Agreed. When I make these statements I always mention my particular preamp since I do not believe this applicable to other equipment.

I think the PR-SC5507 is not the best at handling digital LPCM sources. This does not apply to encoded formats like DD, DD TrueHD, DTS, etc.
I also feel the 5507 is a bright processor that has a sonic signature. There are settings that fundamentally change the sound.
For example, turning on THX Subwoofer. Or the DSD Direct to DAC setting (Which I have on). The manual says it affects DSD only.
In fact, it affects the sound of all sources. Why? I would guess is additonal processing.
One of the great benefits of this processor is it does not have the hardware to digitize the 5.1 analog inputs.
As a result, the path from the 105 is clean and the sound is fantastic.
Quote:
Originally Posted by decooney View Post

Before asking, I've read through this entire thread noting several references about analog inputs and using the DACs on the Oppo players vs. the internal DACs on one's pre/pro units. I'm assuming if I use HDMI out on the Oppo players, it defaults to my DAC on my pre-pro anyhow. My pre-pro does not have 5.1/71 analog inputs, so I'm stuck with HDMI still wondering what player is better for sound quality. I may use the dedicated stereo out (RCA/XLR) of the BD-105 to a separate amplifier later on, but not sure yet. I'm still hoping for an intelligent answer to this question. Thanks in advance for your answers to the question below.
QUESTION:
Does the Oppo BDP-105 still have better sound quality vs. the BDP-103 when using HDMI only connections? If so, why and how?

Intelligent anwers. That is a high bar smile.gif, but here goes:

There is no reason for the 105 if you are using HDMI or audio. None.

If you want to go analog later, that is another story. I absolutely love the sound quality of the 105's analog outs.
Also, Headphone use is another reason to consider the 105.

- Rich
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post #2129 of 5544
1/1/13 at 11:08am
Quote:
Originally Posted by erwinfrombelgium View Post

Emotiva UMC-500 will arrive shortly. It's basically a UMC-200 with XLR outputs and will sell for $1,000

You know this how? ... I have seen it ... The palantir is a dangerous tool, you do not know who is watching smile.gif

That is interesting. How many HDMI inputs do your foresee?

- Rich
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post #2130 of 5544
1/1/13 at 11:18am
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRDnhorns View Post

I
Mechnical Engineer can think of two reasons for this:
1) Routing of the cable is different - further away from power cords etc less EMI.
2) First cable had poor solder joints - large piece solder, does not bave to be that large when 18 wires in 18 HDMI cable are so close, can create EMI at at one or both cable ends.
I work in quality control and when we have electrical issue 80 percent of the time it is a bad solder joint.
Any Electrical Engineers out there to add to or refut?

If the cable can change the quality of a digital stream, it would imply that there is some intelligent digital processing going on in the cable. We know this is not true. Red Mere is doing something, but it is toward making sure the stream arrives, not some DSP enhancement. To explain the difference, I'd look at the analog components that convert the HDMI steam to something displayable - perhaps one cable is causing a voltage issue in the HDMI interface that is affecting the display somehow - and very well could be a bad solder joint. I have no idea how HDMI works though, but I can't believe the digital stream over the cable is somehow being enhanced or degraded in a way that would still show a clear picture. Still, if looks better - it looks better - and for the reasonable price of these cables, no reason not to use them on long runs.
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