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Official OPPO BDP-105 Owner's Thread - Page 146

post #4351 of 10044
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cutler View Post

I just googled your system......awesome! sorry just had to tell you that!

Thanks!

~35 years of audiophile hobby led up to the current system.

Might upgrade the center to a Stage X center channel at some point, and hope to nurse the Kuro until OLED 4x is available (sadly it looks like Panasonic might exit the plasma business, effectively killing plasma). Otherwise no changes planned, at least not until my multichannel analog preamp project is done.
post #4352 of 10044
Another question I have regards the speaker configuration settings. If I'm using the analog connections on the Oppo to the AVR (or in my case it's actually a processor) AND the processor also has the ability to configure speakers , small ,large, etc. and to set output levels, then should A) both the processor and the 105 have the speakers set the same OR B) it doesn't matter what the Oppo is set to since the Oppo is fed to the processor. I can obviously see where if the Oppo was directly feeding the amps to drive the speakers (with the other processor out of the loop then it would matter how the 105 was set.

Just want to make sure the processor and the 105 won't be "fighting" each other, or that the audio output gets messed up with conflicting speaker settings.

Any thoughts ? The processor is a B&K Reference 30 which, while old by today's standards, still has a lot of tweaking capability.
post #4353 of 10044

1: You should not set up bass/channel management in both devices.

2.  You need to determine if your prepro will, in fact, implement bass/channel management with multichannel analog input.  Most do not.

3a. If the prepro does implement bass/channel management, then use it and do not set it up in the player.

3b. If the prepro does not, then you must set it up in the player.

post #4354 of 10044
Quote:
Originally Posted by gripen08 View Post

Another question I have regards the speaker configuration settings. If I'm using the analog connections on the Oppo to the AVR (or in my case it's actually a processor) AND the processor also has the ability to configure speakers , small ,large, etc. and to set output levels, then should A) both the processor and the 105 have the speakers set the same OR B) it doesn't matter what the Oppo is set to since the Oppo is fed to the processor. I can obviously see where if the Oppo was directly feeding the amps to drive the speakers (with the other processor out of the loop then it would matter how the 105 was set.

Just want to make sure the processor and the 105 won't be "fighting" each other, or that the audio output gets messed up with conflicting speaker settings.

Any thoughts ? The processor is a B&K Reference 30 which, while old by today's standards, still has a lot of tweaking capability.

The Rule of Thumb is that you only want the Speaker Configuration processing to be happening once.

The Speaker Configuration settings in the 105 only apply to its multi-channel Analog output (which includes the Dedicated Stereo Analog outputs if you have Stereo Signal FRONT LEFT/RIGHT set). So when listening to HDMI audio those settings in the OPPO do nothing -- all the Speaker Configuration stuff is happening in your HDMI-capable processor.

When using the multi-channel Analog outputs, if you prefer to use the Speaker Configuration features of your sound processor -- for example if it offers Room Correction for that type of audio input -- then you want to set the OPPO to do no adjustments on those outputs.

To do that:

1) Set all speakers Large and the Subwoofer ON.

2) Set all speakers/sub equidistant. Any distance will do so long as they are all the same. You can just leave it at the factory default value of 12 feet.

3) Set 0dB volume trim for all speakers/sub.

4) Set Down-mix to the maximum number of speakers your processor can accept on its multi-channel Analog input, up to 7.1

Set that way the OPPO will do no bass management (Crossover processing), time alignment (speaker distance adjustment), volume trim, or down-mixing below the max your processor can accept. Your processor will do all of that. For example, if you have no Center speaker, your processor accepts the Center channel from the OPPO and takes it from there. If your Center is Small, the processor takes care of that (Crossover processing, steering bass from it to your Subwoofer). If your speakers are at different distances, your processor takes care of that, and also speaker volume trim.

Set that way, the Crossover setting in the OPPO is ignored (since all speaker outputs are set to Large).

NOTE: Set this way, the Analog Subwoofer output of the 105 needs +10dB boost to match the level of the other RCA outputs. This is the standard +10dB boost due to how LFE bass content is recorded. Typically a sound processor will DEFAULT to providing this +10dB boost, but some processors have a user setting for 0, 5, 10, or 15dB boost. Set +10dB boost for those. You can verify levels using a Sound Pressure Level (SPL) meter and a calibration disc -- I recommend using the LPCM test tracks from AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray.
--Bob
post #4355 of 10044
Quote:
Originally Posted by gripen08 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by JazzGuyy View Post

You use the 2 channel Oppo outputs into the L and R front multichannel inputs on your AVR. The other channels use the regular multichannel outputs on the Oppo. There is a setting in the Oppo's setup menus where you tell the player that you are using the 2 channel outputs for L and R when playing multichannel material.

Ok. That makes sense. So connected this way if I play a regular 2 ch CD I don't need to switch the AVR as I assume the Oppo will automatically output just the L and R signal. Am I ccorrect?

Oh and therefore the L and R jacks on the 105 multichannel section are not used at all in this case. True ?

When you set Stereo Signal FRONT LEFT/RIGHT, the Dedicated Stereo Analog outputs (both the RCA and the XLR) respond to all the Speaker Configuration settings that would normally affect the Left Front / Right Front outputs of the multi-channel Analog set. This allows you to wire the Dedicated L/R in lieu of the normal LF/RF from the multi-channel set.

Set this way, when playing stereo content (such as a CD), the Center and Surround outputs will be silent so long as you have DTS Neo:6 Mode set to OFF. The Subwoofer output will ALSO be silent unless you have LF/RF set to SMALL -- in which case the Crossover processing will steer the chosen bass frequencies to that Subwoofer output instead.

All of this works pretty intuitively -- automagically even. The one possible gotcha is that if you are using a sound processor at the other end of those multi-channel Analog cables it can not, of course, know whether you are playing Stereo content or Multi-channel content that just happens to be quiet for the moment in the Center and Surrounds. So, for example, it won't be able to automatically switch on some sort of Surround Sound processing (like PLIIx) to raise the stereo input to more speakers of output. If you wired into a STEREO input jack pair in the processor then, of course it would know the input could only be Stereo and so it could switch processing automatically for you according to what you've set up.

If you don't WANT surround sound processing to be applied to your stereo music playback, then no problems. But maybe you want it when playing a stereo movie? In that case it would be better to wire the multi-channel Analog jacks normally, wire the dedicated stereo pair to a stereo input on your processor, and set Stereo Signal DOWN MIX STEREO. Change the input on your processor between the multi-channel input and the stereo input according to what you are playing.
--Bob
post #4356 of 10044
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View PostThe Rule of Thumb is that you only want the Speaker Configuration processing to be happening once.

The Speaker Configuration settings in the 105 only apply to its multi-channel Analog output (which includes the Dedicated Stereo Analog outputs if you have Stereo Signal FRONT LEFT/RIGHT set). So when listening to HDMI audio those settings in the OPPO do nothing -- all the Speaker Configuration stuff is happening in your HDMI-capable processor.

When using the multi-channel Analog outputs, if you prefer to use the Speaker Configuration features of your sound processor -- for example if it offers Room Correction for that type of audio input -- then you want to set the OPPO to do no adjustments on those outputs.

To do that:

1) Set all speakers Large and the Subwoofer ON.

2) Set all speakers/sub equidistant. Any distance will do so long as they are all the same. You can just leave it at the factory default value of 12 feet.

3) Set 0dB volume trim for all speakers/sub.

4) Set Down-mix to the maximum number of speakers your processor can accept on its multi-channel Analog input, up to 7.1

Set that way the OPPO will do no bass management (Crossover processing), time alignment (speaker distance adjustment), volume trim, or down-mixing below the max your processor can accept. Your processor will do all of that. For example, if you have no Center speaker, your processor accepts the Center channel from the OPPO and takes it from there. If your Center is Small, the processor takes care of that (Crossover processing, steering bass from it to your Subwoofer). If your speakers are at different distances, your processor takes care of that, and also speaker volume trim.

Set that way, the Crossover setting in the OPPO is ignored (since all speaker outputs are set to Large).

NOTE: Set this way, the Analog Subwoofer output of the 105 needs +10dB boost to match the level of the other RCA outputs. This is the standard +10dB boost due to how LFE bass content is recorded. Typically a sound processor will DEFAULT to providing this +10dB boost, but some processors have a user setting for 0, 5, 10, or 15dB boost. Set +10dB boost for those. You can verify levels using a Sound Pressure Level (SPL) meter and a calibration disc -- I recommend using the LPCM test tracks from AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray.
--Bob

 

Thank you Bob, very useful!

post #4357 of 10044
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cutler View Post

I am still on the fence but if I could get $750-$800 for it fairly easy, I would do the upgrade. I have read that folks are seeing an overall better performance(nothing drastic)both audio(mainly my concern) and video....

Decisions decisions smile.gif

Google around for dealers selling the 105 to get another data point. For example, there's a dealer in Delaware who is advertising "up to" $500 trade-in on a 95 for purchase of a 105. The dealer of course has to make some profit on the resale of the 95 so that sort of info would set kind of a lower bound on your resale expectations. If you have a local dealer willing to offer a reasonable trade-in, you might just go with that for the convenience and safety -- even though you don't get quite as high a valuation as you might get on the open market.

In general the OPPO players have a phenomenal reputation for retaining their resale value. So you should be in no rush to accept any low-ball offers you get.
--Bob
post #4358 of 10044
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kal Rubinson View Post

1: You should not set up bass/channel management in both devices.
2.  You need to determine if your prepro will, in fact, implement bass/channel management with multichannel analog input.  Most do not.
3a. If the prepro does implement bass/channel management, then use it and do not set it up in the player.
3b. If the prepro does not, then you must set it up in the player.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

The Rule of Thumb is that you only want the Speaker Configuration processing to be happening once.

The Speaker Configuration settings in the 105 only apply to its multi-channel Analog output (which includes the Dedicated Stereo Analog outputs if you have Stereo Signal FRONT LEFT/RIGHT set). So when listening to HDMI audio those settings in the OPPO do nothing -- all the Speaker Configuration stuff is happening in your HDMI-capable processor.

When using the multi-channel Analog outputs, if you prefer to use the Speaker Configuration features of your sound processor -- for example if it offers Room Correction for that type of audio input -- then you want to set the OPPO to do no adjustments on those outputs.

To do that:

1) Set all speakers Large and the Subwoofer ON.

2) Set all speakers/sub equidistant. Any distance will do so long as they are all the same. You can just leave it at the factory default value of 12 feet.

3) Set 0dB volume trim for all speakers/sub.

4) Set Down-mix to the maximum number of speakers your processor can accept on its multi-channel Analog input, up to 7.1

Set that way the OPPO will do no bass management (Crossover processing), time alignment (speaker distance adjustment), volume trim, or down-mixing below the max your processor can accept. Your processor will do all of that. For example, if you have no Center speaker, your processor accepts the Center channel from the OPPO and takes it from there. If your Center is Small, the processor takes care of that (Crossover processing, steering bass from it to your Subwoofer). If your speakers are at different distances, your processor takes care of that, and also speaker volume trim.

Set that way, the Crossover setting in the OPPO is ignored (since all speaker outputs are set to Large).

NOTE: Set this way, the Analog Subwoofer output of the 105 needs +10dB boost to match the level of the other RCA outputs. This is the standard +10dB boost due to how LFE bass content is recorded. Typically a sound processor will DEFAULT to providing this +10dB boost, but some processors have a user setting for 0, 5, 10, or 15dB boost. Set +10dB boost for those. You can verify levels using a Sound Pressure Level (SPL) meter and a calibration disc -- I recommend using the LPCM test tracks from AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray.
--Bob

Thanks Bob and Kal. Much appreciated. I was thinking choosing one or the other to set speakers, bass management, crossovers etc., would be the case. As I said the little monster BK 30 can actually do all of that, so I'll have to use one to do the configuration, probably the Ref. 30. BTW it's circa 1999-2000 vintage so pre-HDMI days. But a very "musical " processor that's why I still use it.biggrin.gif
post #4359 of 10044
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Google around for dealers selling the 105 to get another data point. For example, there's a dealer in Delaware who is advertising "up to" $500 trade-in on a 95 for purchase of a 105. The dealer of course has to make some profit on the resale of the 95 so that sort of info would set kind of a lower bound on your resale expectations. If you have a local dealer willing to offer a reasonable trade-in, you might just go with that for the convenience and safety -- even though you don't get quite as high a valuation as you might get on the open market.

In general the OPPO players have a phenomenal reputation for retaining their resale value. So you should be in no rush to accept any low-ball offers you get.
--Bob

Hi Bob,

Thanks for the feedback and luckily I have secured the $600 offer from the dealer and they said the $600 offer is good through the end of March.....so I have some time to see what the free market will yield!

-Jason
post #4360 of 10044
Bob,

If unbalanced stereo gets the same special analog processing as balanced stereo, I think I can have the best of both worlds by continuing to take balanced stereo to the Cary 11a and unbalanced stereo to the 7.1 inputs. When I select the stereo it will be balanced; when I select 7.1 it will be unbalanced stereo plus the inputs to 7.1 minus FLR. Thanks for the tip. I only need to move a couple of cables and reset the menu.

db
post #4361 of 10044
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbphd View Post

Bob,

If unbalanced stereo gets the same special analog processing as balanced stereo, I think I can have the best of both worlds by continuing to take balanced stereo to the Cary 11a and unbalanced stereo to the 7.1 inputs. When I select the stereo it will be balanced; when I select 7.1 it will be unbalanced stereo plus the inputs to 7.1 minus FLR. Thanks for the tip. I only need to move a couple of cables and reset the menu.

db

You can certainly cable it that way, but you need to think carefully about what you are asking the player to do at any moment.

BOTH the Dedicated RCA and Dedicated XLR outputs will respond to the Stereo Signal setting.

So for example if you have LF/RF set to Small (to enable Crossover processing -- bass steering -- to the Sub output), then that will be in effect for BOTH pairs of Dedicated outputs whenever Stereo Signal FRONT LEFT/RIGHT is set. For the multi-channel use that's no problem because the bass steered to the Sub output is part of the multi-channel set.

But for the XLR pair to the stereo input on the Cary you certainly don't want that to be the case, because bass will be extracted from them by the Crossover processing, but there's no Subwoofer feed going through that input of the Cary.

So when you want to use the XLR pair for just stereo into that Carry stereo input, you would also need to change the setting in the OPPO to Stereo Signal DOWN MIX STEREO.

Of course if you have LF/RF set to Large in the multi-channel set this is not a problem.

So yes, you can take advantage of all the outputs this way, but do take care to think through what's happening on those Dedicate L/R outs for any combo of settings and content type. And take the time to double check your usage combos with an audio calibration disc to make sure you don't have a brain cramp about how this stuff works.
--Bob
post #4362 of 10044
Hi. Does anyone happen to know if the SD DVD de-interlacing issue was corrected in the subsequent official firmware releases following beta release BDP10X-37-1114B from 11/20/12 as noted by Nueromancer back then:

"9. General disc compatibility improvement based on recent and upcoming Blu-ray releases as well as user-submitted disc samples.
Special notices:
a) In order to facilitate the user experience improvement in media navigation (item 6 above), the player will create an "OPPO_Media_Info" folder on the connected USB storage device and store media information there. You may find this folder on USB flash drives or external hard drives after using those on the OPPO player. Please do not delete the folder and its files.
b) SD DVD de-interlacing performance is not as good as that of the official firmware release BDP10X-33-1018. If you watch DVD often, we recommend that you skip this beta test version and wait for the next official release, which will fix this problem.
c) You can revert back to the previous Official release via a USB thumb drive"

I checked the release notes after that timeframe and can't find any reference to it.
Thanks.
post #4363 of 10044
^ Yes. Fixed.
--Bob
post #4364 of 10044
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

^ Yes. Fixed.
--Bob

Excellent biggrin.gif

Thanks Bob
post #4365 of 10044

How to best compare HDMi vs Analog for movies with the same volume level and no EQ?

post #4366 of 10044
Has anyone tried an accessory power cord to good effect?
post #4367 of 10044
Quote:
Originally Posted by wse View Post

How to best compare HDMi vs Analog for movies with the same volume level and no EQ?

When I had the 95 in my system, I had to pull out my trusty old Radio Shack SPL meter and calibrate each channel. Other than trim and distance controls, there is no EQ, and you are limited to 7.1 audio.
post #4368 of 10044
Quote:
Originally Posted by MLM View Post

Has anyone tried an accessory power cord to good effect?

Of course not, if the unit could be improved by a better power cord, Marantz would have included it.
It has a very substantial power cord and I measured mine and have not seen it go above 70 watts.
Lamp cord would be sufficient tongue.gif

- Rich
post #4369 of 10044
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichB View Post

Of course not, if the unit could be improved by a better power cord, Marantz would have included it.
It has a very substantial power cord and I measured mine and have not seen it go above 70 watts.
Lamp cord would be sufficient tongue.gif

- Rich

Oh no, not this debate! If you search this and other forums (such as audiogon.com and audioasylum.com) you will find strongly divergent opinions about power cords. The two sides of this debate do not like each other and it is a good thing they are not armed with WMDs as they would probably wipe each other off the face of the planet.

My (undoubtedly biased) recommendation is that if you do not have a high end system, you will never notice any effect of swapping power cords. If you do have a high end system then you may or may not notice an effect, depending on which of the warring parties is right and whether you can hear such things. If you can cheaply give something an audition, then go for it. If you can't audition something without spending some money, then I don't know what to tell you. An audition is worth the expense only if you give credence to the "power cords matter" side of the war, and that is something you have to decide for yourself.

BTW: The counter argument to the "Marantz would have included it" argument is that different high end listeners prefer different power cords and so it makes no sense for Marantz to spend any money supplying any particular cord. Some folks buy that argument and others think it is more snake oil. What a great hobby, huh?
post #4370 of 10044
Please help with advice. Nott sure which is a better route. I need to upgrade my old Pioneer Elite DVD player to a new 3D Blu-ray player. I'm trying to decide between the 103 or the 105. Part of my decision is the DAC in the 105. I currently listen to 80% of my music streaming from a Squeezebox touch hooked into my Marantz SR7005 (analog). i view 80% of my movies on a Apple TV hooked into my AVR via HDMI. if i were to go with the 105, how can i utilize the DAC for both the Apple TV and the Squeezbox touch ? Do I hook the touch and apple TV into the 105? if so how? Another option would be to go with the 103 and a separate DAC(thinking of the peachtree Dacit). Then I would hook the Squeezebox to the Dacit(coax) then the Apple TV (optical). Thanks in advance.
post #4371 of 10044
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eleanor D View Post

BTW: The counter argument to the "Marantz would have included it" argument is that different high end listeners prefer different power cords and so it makes no sense for Marantz to spend any money supplying any particular cord. Some folks buy that argument and others think it is more snake oil. What a great hobby, huh?

Snake oil? Yes. Great hobby? Most definitely! biggrin.gif
post #4372 of 10044
Quote:
Originally Posted by gelly View Post

Please help with advice. Nott sure which is a better route. I need to upgrade my old Pioneer Elite DVD player to a new 3D Blu-ray player. I'm trying to decide between the 103 or the 105. Part of my decision is the DAC in the 105. I currently listen to 80% of my music streaming from a Squeezebox touch hooked into my Marantz SR7005 (analog). i view 80% of my movies on a Apple TV hooked into my AVR via HDMI. if i were to go with the 105, how can i utilize the DAC for both the Apple TV and the Squeezbox touch ? Do I hook the touch and apple TV into the 105? if so how? Another option would be to go with the 103 and a separate DAC(thinking of the peachtree Dacit). Then I would hook the Squeezebox to the Dacit(coax) then the Apple TV (optical). Thanks in advance.

Again, if you use a digital input and an analog output you're using the OPPO's DACs - it's as easy as that.

For the apple TV you connect vie HDMI or optical through the HDMI or optical ports and for the squeezboz you can use usb (if you have EDO loaded) or spdif. If you go this rought you have to use the 105 vise the 103 because the 103 doesn't have digital inputs.
post #4373 of 10044
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

You can certainly cable it that way, but you need to think carefully about what you are asking the player to do at any moment.

BOTH the Dedicated RCA and Dedicated XLR outputs will respond to the Stereo Signal setting.

So for example if you have LF/RF set to Small (to enable Crossover processing -- bass steering -- to the Sub output), then that will be in effect for BOTH pairs of Dedicated outputs whenever Stereo Signal FRONT LEFT/RIGHT is set. For the multi-channel use that's no problem because the bass steered to the Sub output is part of the multi-channel set.

But for the XLR pair to the stereo input on the Cary you certainly don't want that to be the case, because bass will be extracted from them by the Crossover processing, but there's no Subwoofer feed going through that input of the Cary.

So when you want to use the XLR pair for just stereo into that Carry stereo input, you would also need to change the setting in the OPPO to Stereo Signal DOWN MIX STEREO.

Of course if you have LF/RF set to Large in the multi-channel set this is not a problem.

So yes, you can take advantage of all the outputs this way, but do take care to think through what's happening on those Dedicate L/R outs for any combo of settings and content type. And take the time to double check your usage combos with an audio calibration disc to make sure you don't have a brain cramp about how this stuff works.
--Bob

Thanks Bob. I had forgotten about the bass management issue. The KEF 107/2s have sufficient LF extension even for pipe organ pedal notes, but a pair of Velodyne HGS-15s with SMS-1 do the heavy lifting for HT. Multichannel music sounds fine with analog 7.1 out from the 105, so I'll not try to introduce stereo LR into the mix.

db
post #4374 of 10044
Quote:
Originally Posted by SergeantYnot View PostSnake oil? Yes. Great hobby? Most definitely! biggrin.gif

Yes, exorbitant prices for power cords are total miracle elexir level!

 

Absolutely love the hobby, can be addicting!

post #4375 of 10044
Quote:
Originally Posted by SergeantYnot View PostWhen I had the 95 in my system, I had to pull out my trusty old Radio Shack SPL meter and calibrate each channel. Other than trim and distance controls, there is no EQ, and you are limited to 7.1 audio.

7.1 is good for me especially with 800 series diamonds around :) Plus I sit 8 feet away from the front 3 800Diamond  and 6 feet away from the 4 side 802Ds so I am immersed in sound!

 

I also have a pair of in ceiling B&W but they are not plugged in yet!

post #4376 of 10044
Quote:
Originally Posted by MLM View Post

Has anyone tried an accessory power cord to good effect?

Hey, I asked a very simple question and I did not mean to have anyone take up space with gratuitous, non-responsive comments. I know more about the subject of wires than you might suppose and have heard all this gibberish before.

With all respect, the question still stands.

Thank you,

Len
post #4377 of 10044
Quote:
Originally Posted by MLM View Post

Hey, I asked a very simple question and I did not mean to have anyone take up space with gratuitous, non-responsive comments. I know more about the subject of wires than you might suppose and have heard all this gibberish before. With all respect, the question still stands.Thank you, Len

You are welcome, yes it tried a dealer wanted me to try Furutech power cords he told me they sound amazing! I tried could not tell the difference with my stock power cord!
Edited by wse - 3/21/13 at 1:48pm
post #4378 of 10044
Quote:
Originally Posted by MLM View Post

Hey, I asked a very simple question and I did not mean to have anyone take up space with gratuitous, non-responsive comments. I know more about the subject of wires than you might suppose and have heard all this gibberish before.

With all respect, the question still stands.

Thank you,

Len

I've had good results with an PS Audio AC3(12awg), I did try the AC5(10awg) and AC10(10awg poccc cooper and quad sheilding) also and if funds would allow I did prefer the AC10, the AC5 took the system out of balance to my ears but for now the lesser AC3 was more coherent. The result was lower noise floor and better video as well wink.gif

Good luck on the rest of the post here as the mob gathers around you to burn the Witch or cast you in prison for saying the Earth isn't flat biggrin.gif
post #4379 of 10044
Quote:
Originally Posted by audiofan1 View Post

I've had good results with an PS Audio AC3(12awg), I did try the AC5(10awg) and AC10(10awg poccc cooper and quad sheilding) also and if funds would allow I did prefer the AC10, the AC5 took the system out of balance to my ears but for now the lesser AC3 was more coherent. The result was lower noise floor and better video as well wink.gif

Good luck on the rest of the post here as the mob gathers around you to burn the Witch or cast you in prison for saying the Earth isn't flat biggrin.gif

What's in your wall (et) tongue.gif

Answer: Romex.

- Rich
post #4380 of 10044
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichB View Post

What's in your wall (et) tongue.gif

Answer: Romex.

- Rich

Yup! 10 awg for my Halo A21 and 12awg for the rest at 15 ft from the box ! and lovin every last bit of my clean unrestricted current power setup tongue.gif
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