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Official OPPO BDP-105 Owner's Thread - Page 296

post #8851 of 10274
Quote:
Originally Posted by JFred View Post

It is set to 80 hrz

The sound test is greyed out in the menu and I never used it!

That doesn't sound right. I'd go back in there and make sure you can do the sound test. Even with a 2.1 setup (dedicated mains and .1 from the 7.1) I was able to run it and test all three speakers.
post #8852 of 10274
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsr View Post

What are you using for your front left/right speakers? 120Hz is a pretty high crossover setting.

That was a personal choice. I've got a pair of MG944 from www.Decware.com - they do pretty well to almost 20HZ, and I had the 21" sub setup for 80Hz originally, but setting the sub for 120 gave me that dynamic pop that a live bass has. I had just seen Mannheim Steamroller live and immediately dialed in my system to replicate the dynamics I heard - I've got the live sound pinned down very well, but I've not tested this setup with movies since. My two channel listening has pretty much taken over my use of the Oppo.
post #8853 of 10274
Quote:
Originally Posted by JFred View Post

Hello everyone, my BDP-105 is connected directly via XLR to my XPA-2. The sound is very good! However, when watching a movie I would like to use my PB-1000 subwoofer in a 2.1 configuration and still use the XLR output. What is the best configuration / settings on the player to do so ? Because the sound is very thin coming from the subwoofer. I doesn't shake anything as it was with the 3313. mad.gif I have changed the FL and FR speakers to SMALL and SW to YES and adjusted to +5. The knob on the subwoofer is at 3 o'clock... So it's supposed to run very hot in this configuration, but the bass is less than desired.

Anyone have an idea ? smile.gif

Fred

You can use the XLR outs for the FL/FR and then the sub RCA out of the 7.1 RCA outs for your sub.

Just check the menu settings - Audio Processing - Stereo Signal - "Front Left/Right" (not Downmixed Stereo), and then in Audio Processing - Speaker Configuration - Front L and Front R "small", Sub "on", Downmix "5.1" or "7.1" (not Stereo). Then you should have proper sub output. However, if you're listening to SACDs using DSD, then these settings will be bypassed.
post #8854 of 10274
Are you using downmix
stereo or fl/fr? Either should work.
post #8855 of 10274
Hi guys,

Just thinking about giving a try to oppo 150 + emotiva xpa-5.
Are there any experiences driving this combo? Known Issues?

Atm im a bit disappointed of ps3 + marantz sr6006 and need some improvement :-)

Best regards
Flo
post #8856 of 10274
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigguyca View Post

I don't know if you received an answer to this question, anyway:

My understanding is that the level control, there is one for each channel on the back of the A23, affects both the RCA input and the XLR input. The level control has two sections, one section attenuates the RCA and one leg of the XLR input and the other section attenuates the second leg of the XLR. Each section feeds a separate FET input section. According to the A23 manual turning the level control all the way clockwise effectively takes the level control out of the circuit.

It would be helpful if the level control had a calibrated -6 dB setting but unfortunately it doesn't. From the specs. it appears that a 1 volt input to either the RCA or XLR inputs generates a 28.28 volt output which means an output of 100 watts into 8 ohms.

Thank you for the help. I tried everything and just figured I would give up. The output level wasn't much different between xlr and rca. I have to turn the oppo up to at least 80 to have decent volume. This is with it set on downmix front left/right.
post #8857 of 10274
Quote:
Originally Posted by FLCanuck View Post

You can use the XLR outs for the FL/FR and then the sub RCA out of the 7.1 RCA outs for your sub.

Just check the menu settings - Audio Processing - Stereo Signal - "Front Left/Right" (not Downmixed Stereo), and then in Audio Processing - Speaker Configuration - Front L and Front R "small", Sub "on", Downmix "5.1" or "7.1" (not Stereo). Then you should have proper sub output. However, if you're listening to SACDs using DSD, then these settings will be bypassed.

Well, I have tried what you said and it's not better. What you say about "Front Left/Right" is not true, at least for me... this give me less bass. I have put a bass heavy dvd-audio (Riding with the King) witch is as spectacular sound for testing. The sub works but very little... and it's not tight. I get alot more bass in just 2.0 If I use my Denon 3313 as a pre/pro with the sub plugged in it, it's like night and day. Far far better...

Thanks for trying to help me... I will just live this as is.

Fred
post #8858 of 10274
^ Have you checked your levels with a calibration disc? I recommend the LPCM test tracks on AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray. Use an SPL meter rather than trying to judge this by ear. Everyone uses the inexpensive digital readout Sound Pressure Level meter sold by Radio Shack.

When you have Crossover processing enabled in the OPPO (i.e., any speakers set to SMALL), then the Analog Subwoofer output of the player needs to be boosted +15dB to match in level with the other speaker RCA jacks. You do this using the Volume knob on your Subwoofer (not the speaker Volume Trim settings in the OPPO).

+10dB of this is the standard boost needed to get LFE output to match the other speaker channels. The other +5dB is needed to counter the down-mix attenuation -- a lowering of the Sub output volume so that there is headroom to allow the bass from the Small speakers to be combined in without risk of clipping the input of your pre-amp or Subwoofer built-in amp.

When you have all speakers set to LARGE (Crossover processing handled by your AVR), then the needed boost of the Analog Subwoofer output is just +10dB, which is typically provided by default when you pass the signal through an AVR.

If you are experiencing thin bass, the FIRST thing to check is that the Subwoofer is level balanced with the other speaker channels for just this reason.
--Bob
post #8859 of 10274
OPPO Digital has posted an updated User Manual for the BDP-105:

http://www.oppodigital.com/blu-ray-bdp-105/blu-ray-BDP-105-Support.aspx

--Bob
post #8860 of 10274
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigguyca View Post

I don't know if you received an answer to this question, anyway:

My understanding is that the level control, there is one for each channel on the back of the A23, affects both the RCA input and the XLR input. The level control has two sections, one section attenuates the RCA and one leg of the XLR input and the other section attenuates the second leg of the XLR. Each section feeds a separate FET input section. According to the A23 manual turning the level control all the way clockwise effectively takes the level control out of the circuit.

It would be helpful if the level control had a calibrated -6 dB setting but unfortunately it doesn't. From the specs. it appears that a 1 volt input to either the RCA or XLR inputs generates a 28.28 volt output which means an output of 100 watts into 8 ohms.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rhale64L7 View Post

Thank you for the help. I tried everything and just figured I would give up. The output level wasn't much different between xlr and rca. I have to turn the oppo up to at least 80 to have decent volume. This is with it set on downmix front left/right.


All of the following is likely well known but I feel it may be helpful to some:

The OPPO BDP-105 doesn't provide any gain from say a CD, unlike a typical preamp or AV receiver. The output of a CD is 2.1 volts from the OPPO from an RCA output. This would be the output with the volume control set at 100. A typical AV receiver might have a gain of 16 dB. Referenced to the OPPO this would result in a maximum output setting of 116. The output of the OPPO at 100 is high enough to drive most (perhaps all) amplifiers to clipping as detailed below. The gain provided by most AVR's is unnecessary in most cases, and often reduces the S/N ratio, which isn't good.

If you have the OPPO volume set at 80 I believe this means the output is 20 dB less in volts than at an output of 100. (If this isn't how the OPPO is calibrated, someone please let me know.) 20 dB less is 1/10 of the voltage at 100 or .21 volts. If .21 volts is fed to the A23 RCA input the output will be (.21 x 1 ) x 28.28 volts or 5.9388 volts. This will provide a power of 5.9388 x 5.9388 / 8 = 4.40 watts into an eight ohm load. The XLR outputs have a maximum output from a CD of 4.2 volts. With the volume control set at 80 the output from the A23 would be four times as great in watts or 17.60 watts.

If the volume control is set to 60 the output would be .021 volts from the RCA's. This would provide .044 watts from the A23, and many other power amplifiers for that matter. A setting of 40 means .00044 watts output into 8 ohms. Most volume controls are calibrated in dB, just like the one on the OPPO. The volume on my Marantz AV8801 is calibrated the same way as has been any preamp or AVR I've owned. The maximum output "number" may be different but the scale of the control is in dB, reduce the volume by 20 and you have reduced the output by 20 dB. Only with digital readouts has this calibration been obvious.

If you ran the volume on the OPPO BDP-105 at 100 the output would be 2.1 volts from the RCA's. If the A23 had the capability, which it doesn't, the output would be 440 watts into an 8 ohm load. With volume control set at 100 and the OPPO connected to the XLR's on the A23 the output would be 1760 watts into an 8 ohm load. All of these output numbers would double into 4 ohm loads if the A23 was a perfect voltage source, and cost a whole lot more than it does.

With the advent of the CD it is rarely necessary to have a preamp or AVR receiver with any gain, that is, a gain of 1 is plenty. The basic standard output of a CD, which is 2.0 volts from RCA outputs, in ample to drive most amplifiers to clipping and most speakers to destruction. While it somehow seems odd to run a volume control at what seems so close to maximum, the fact that the volume control is calibrated in dB means that the power output really isn't that high in watts from the connected power amplifier, unless the control is very close to maximum.
post #8861 of 10274
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

^ Have you checked your levels with a calibration disc? I recommend the LPCM test tracks on AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray. Use an SPL meter rather than trying to judge this by ear. Everyone uses the inexpensive digital readout Sound Pressure Level meter sold by Radio Shack.

When you have Crossover processing enabled in the OPPO (i.e., any speakers set to SMALL), then the Analog Subwoofer output of the player needs to be boosted +15dB to match in level with the other speaker RCA jacks. You do this using the Volume knob on your Subwoofer (not the speaker Volume Trim settings in the OPPO).

+10dB of this is the standard boost needed to get LFE output to match the other speaker channels. The other +5dB is needed to counter the down-mix attenuation -- a lowering of the Sub output volume so that there is headroom to allow the bass from the Small speakers to be combined in without risk of clipping the input of your pre-amp or Subwoofer built-in amp.

When you have all speakers set to LARGE (Crossover processing handled by your AVR), then the needed boost of the Analog Subwoofer output is just +10dB, which is typically provided by default when you pass the signal through an AVR.

If you are experiencing thin bass, the FIRST thing to check is that the Subwoofer is level balanced with the other speaker channels for just this reason.
--Bob

I do not understand this. I'm using a subwoofer with crossover processing enabled and I hear no need to increase the output boost of the subwoofer. Is this just the situation with the balanced outputs?

post #8862 of 10274
^ If you are using the Analog outputs of the OPPO, including the Analog Subwoofer output, you need to check your speaker levels. This is true whether or not you are using the XLR pair from the Dedicated Stereo Analog Outputs as the Left Front / Right Front connection for your multi-channel speakers.

The Analog Subwoofer output needs to be boosted to match the other jacks. This is done external to the player -- it's all standard stuff. If all speakers are set to LAGE in the OPPO then the Subwoofer jack needs a +10dB boost. If any speakers are set to SMALL in the OPPO then the Subwoofer jack needs a +15dB boost. That's to match the levels of the multi-channel RCA jacks. The XLR jacks run +6dB hotter than the RCA jacks, so the corresponding numbers to match the Subwoofer to THOSE would be +16dB or +21dB (or the equivalent in a combo of REDUCTION of the XLR output volume and boost of the Sub).

When connecting the Analog Subwoofer output of the OPPO directly to your Sub, you do this by raising the volume knob on the Sub itself. When connecting the Analog Subwoofer output of the OPPO through an AVR and thence on to the Sub it is typical for the AVR to include +10dB boost by default -- meaning less need to raise the volume knob on the Sub. Some AVRs allow the user to select the amount of boost applied as the Analog Subwoofer signal passes through on the way to the Sub.

The details may sound a bit complex, but you can ignore all that if you just take the simple step of checking your levels with a calibration disc and an SPL meter. As I said above, I recommend using the multi-channel LPCM test tracks found on AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray, and the Radio Shack Sound Level (SPL) meter:

http://aixrecords.com/catalog/bd/oppo_sampler_bd.html

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=12680845

As I understand it, your issue is that you are getting unsatisfactory bass when you connect the OPPO directly to your Amp and Subwoofer, but things sound OK when you pass the signal through your AVR. The most likely reason for this is that you've not yet balanced the speaker levels properly -- particularly the Subwoofer level -- for the direct connection. It is quite normal that the level adjustments for the Sub will need to be DIFFERENT for direct connection vs. passing it through the AVR due to the AVR providing its own, default boost level. And if you are comparing RCA connection vs. XLR connection for Left Front / Right Front, the Sub level has to adjusted each way to account for the standard, +6dB higher output of the XLR jacks.

Again, please note that the right place to do his Subwoofer level adjustment is on the Sub itself -- its own volume knob -- NOT in the speaker volume trim settings in the OPPO.
--Bob
Edited by Bob Pariseau - 1/25/14 at 10:17am
post #8863 of 10274
Question re: MKV file support -

Has anyone found a way to have the Oppo support forced subtitles for MKV playback? Typically this would mean in the MKV file there is the video, audio, and subtitle streams and the MKV headers forced/enabled flag are set to "yes".

The 105 seems to completely ignore these headers.

Anyone figure out a way?

The subs can of course be enabled after playback starts, but that's kind of annoying to do (perhaps a macro on the remote is in order here....)

--

On a separate note, subs will only work if you use DLNA "pull"; pushing content to the oppo, subs do not work even though the oppo can "see" them.
post #8864 of 10274
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

I recommend using the multi-channel LPCM test tracks found on AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray, and the Radio Shack Sound Level (SPL) meter:

--Bob

Bob,

I noticed you've recommended using the AIX disc to calibrate speaker levels in a number of posts. Is that in preference to using to noise the 105 can generate for speaker level setting, and why? I've been matching all my speakers and the subs at 75 dB SPL using that noise. Is that a mistake?

db
post #8865 of 10274
^ No, it's not a mistake. But I still recommend using a calibration disc because then you can try different formats and see exactly what happens with respect to decoding, down-mix, and crossover (which the internal tones bypass). It gives you a "real content" answer as to what will happen when you play discs or media files.

For example, the AIX disc includes speaker wiring polarity checks and a crossover check (if everything is set up correctly you will get constant volume from end to end of the frequency sweep).

The internal test tones are ideal for verifying your Analog wiring, and getting a ballpark setup. And in many cases, the answers you get will match what you'll get with the calibration disc.

For folks who want to double check setups for DSD playback (vs. SACD PCM for example), you can use tracks 43-48 of the 5.1 layer on "Stay in Tune with PentaTone", SACD:

http://www.amazon.com/Super-Audio-CD-Sampler-2/dp/B000B6N6HW/ref=sr_1_1?s=music&ie=UTF8&qid=1390685245&sr=1-1&keywords=stay+in+tune+with+pentatone+sacd

--Bob
Edited by Bob Pariseau - 1/25/14 at 1:27pm
post #8866 of 10274
Wow good info Bob
post #8867 of 10274
Just got my 105D noticed that it doesn't have a 12v trigger. What are my options to turn on my amp?
post #8868 of 10274
Quote:
Originally Posted by silverdream View Post

Just got my 105D noticed that it doesn't have a 12v trigger. What are my options to turn on my amp?

A number of folks are tapping 5V from one of the USB sockets and using that as their Trigger. Many 12-volt Triggered devices will actually work with just 5 volts -- and without drawing any significant amount of current that would impact the USB.. Basically you get a USB cable, cut off one plug, and isolate the +5V and Ground wires. If you use Quick Start in the 105D, then do this using the USB 2 port on the back, as the USB 1 port is kept powered even while the player is "off' so as to keep the Wifi dongle powered when plugged in there.
--Bob
post #8869 of 10274
I just found out that The Lord of The Ring Trilogy Extend BD Edition is region locked. (I purchase on Amazon UK). I used to play it with my PS3.
Now my BD-105 can not play it since its locked.
Does anyone know how to solve this? by any patch?
Thanks in advance.
Edited by KkndII - 1/26/14 at 12:08am
post #8870 of 10274
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

A number of folks are tapping 5V from one of the USB sockets and using that as their Trigger. Many 12-volt Triggered devices will actually work with just 5 volts -- and without drawing any significant amount of current that would impact the USB.. Basically you get a USB cable, cut off one plug, and isolate the +5V and Ground wires. If you use Quick Start in the 105D, then do this using the USB 2 port on the back, as the USB 1 port is kept powered even while the player is "off' so as to keep the Wifi dongle powered when plugged in there.
--Bob

Thanks Bob.

Would you recommend hooking up the oppo to my amp via multi-channel out & stereo out? Or just multi-channel out? Since you mentioned that XLR runs +6db hotter, I think it's better to run with RCA rather than using attenuators for other channels.
post #8871 of 10274
How good is the Spears & Munsil HD Benchmark 3D Disc 2nd Edition for calibration?
post #8872 of 10274
Quote:
Originally Posted by KkndII View Post

I just found out that The Lord of The Ring Trilogy Extend BD Edition is region locked. (I purchase on Amazon UK). I used to play it with my PS3.
Now my BD-105 can not play it since its locked.
Does anyone know how to solve this? by any patch?
Thanks in advance.

There are fairly easy to install mods out there that can make a BDP-10x region-free. See the FAQ in the first post of the BDP-103 thread for info.
post #8873 of 10274
Quote:
Originally Posted by silverdream View Post

How good is the Spears & Munsil HD Benchmark 3D Disc 2nd Edition for calibration?

It's a favorite here. OPPO assisted with the development of the first edition. I use that and the free AVS HD 709 disc.

-Bill
post #8874 of 10274
Quote:
Originally Posted by frank_t View Post

Question re: MKV file support -

Has anyone found a way to have the Oppo support forced subtitles for MKV playback? Typically this would mean in the MKV file there is the video, audio, and subtitle streams and the MKV headers forced/enabled flag are set to "yes".

The 105 seems to completely ignore these headers.

Anyone figure out a way?

The subs can of course be enabled after playback starts, but that's kind of annoying to do (perhaps a macro on the remote is in order here....)

--

On a separate note, subs will only work if you use DLNA "pull"; pushing content to the oppo, subs do not work even though the oppo can "see" them.


Oppo has responded to me on this topic: forced sub suopport in MKVs has been requested for some time; they *may* support it in the future. Oh well....

I'd love to know their API such that I could create my own MediaController app. Since it's currently just browsing an SMB share as opposed to DLNA, it should be easy to provide "meta data" to the app in the form of an XML file that if it finds it in each directory that is being browsed, it could read/parse the file and display meta data as well as perhaps even reference an external image file for artwork.
post #8875 of 10274
Hello,
I have been thinking about the purchase of 105 EU
I am interested in stream quality of this player.

Can anyone please share his opinions on this topic?
Is the quality of standard flacs (ripped from CD) played via stream worse than played from CD?

Moreover, is it possible to play flacs in gapless mode? Is the current firmware capable of doing this?
I have read that Oppo has improved something in this regard. Does it mean that it is still not full satisfactory.

I will be very grateful for any comments.
Best Regards
post #8876 of 10274
Quote:
Originally Posted by wmcclain View Post

It's a favorite here. OPPO assisted with the development of the first edition. I use that and the free AVS HD 709 disc.

-Bill

Thank you
post #8877 of 10274
Any insight on this question? I would like to hook it up the most optimal way before doing any calibration.

Is it recommended to hook up the oppo to the amp via multi-channel out & stereo out or just multi-channel out? Since it is mentioned that XLR runs +6db hotter, I think it's better to run with RCA rather than using attenuators for other channels.
post #8878 of 10274
^ nothing wrong with running RCA as opposed to XLR. there is no sound quality difference.
post #8879 of 10274
Quote:
Originally Posted by silverdream View Post

Any insight on this question? I would like to hook it up the most optimal way before doing any calibration.

Is it recommended to hook up the oppo to the amp via multi-channel out & stereo out or just multi-channel out? Since it is mentioned that XLR runs +6db hotter, I think it's better to run with RCA rather than using attenuators for other channels.

I use just the RCA MCH Outputs. When I play 2.0 content, it still sounds awesome.
post #8880 of 10274
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smarty-pants View Post

^ nothing wrong with running RCA as opposed to XLR. there is no sound quality difference.

RCA on the stereo out or MCH out?
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