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Build or Buy a HT Sub?

post #1 of 61
Thread Starter 
Ok. I've been contemplating whether to build or buy my next HT sub. Purchase wise I'm looking at the HSU or SVS ported 12 " subs. I've been reading alot of the posts and see that many have build some great subs. I am pretty good with wood and putting things together. I've had alot of experience working with car audio in my younger years and know enough about electronics to be dangerous. My question is is it worth it? Are there great enough costs saving to undertake a project or is it more of just for the the fun of it. I believe undertaking the project would be fun and a great challenge to say the least. Then my other question is sound quality and spl's. Is putting something together with after market parts worth it. I'm sure most of these manufacurer's have a good source for material whether it through a private label or making their own products. I guess when everyone has finished with their builds how does there final product stack up? I'd rather not undertake a project like this if I can't at least meet the quality of the manufactured subs or surpass it. So let me know from your experiences whether good or bad because I'm sure theirs been some great success and failures. I look forward to all the expertise contained from everyone in the group. Thanks again.
post #2 of 61
There is no magic with mainstream company drivers. In fact, a lot of them are using re badged drivers available to the public. You are paying for R&D, aesthetics, and of course profit.

It has been proven time and time again you can build an equal, if not better in most cases, sub for much less. How carried away you get is up to you. If you have good woodworking skills I say there is no reason to not go for it. I wish I would have built my last sub instead of grabbing my Ultra. I paid 2,500 for it when it was released, and can only imaging the setup I could have put together for that amount. I am now looking at building one as well, and have no doubt it will rival the SVS if taking the advice of those on this forum who have gone before us, so to speak. smile.gif

Research, ask, and do more research. The biggest questions you have to answer is what enclosure do you want, and what would you like to accomplish. After that, the skies the limit.
post #3 of 61

It can be cheaper if you have all the tools to build it. A few months ago I was in the same position as you. I was going to get dual empires but in the end decided to DIY. I could tweak the dimensions, buy quality drivers,  and finish it how i wanted. I also bought a bunch of tools that I could use for any other project. Another thing to mention is that it takes TIME to build a subwoofer enclosure from a sheet of wood. 

post #4 of 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrkazador View Post

Another thing to mention is that it takes TIME to build a subwoofer enclosure from a sheet of wood. 

But still quicker than waiting for one to be shipped to you biggrin.gif
post #5 of 61
Thread Starter 
If I do go this route I want to do it right I do not want this sub to be a stop gap. I have all the tools needed and the space to do it. I have the table saw, miter saw, router etc. So that's not a problem. Room layout is approximately 30 x 18 opening to another room through an archway. This second room is a large also about 15 x 25. All ceilings are 8 high. I would be building this for HT use. I would like to do a ported box. The size of the box would not be a hindrance as I have a large space to place it. So that being said let's talk drivers and amps. Has anyone put in a JL 10 or 12w6 in a custom box. If not want recommendations would you all have. As far as amp. I would like a plate amp that has a crossover point and auto on with a phase control also. I would like it to be an all in 1 unit. I think if I figure out the driver and amp I we can work on a box design and believe me I'm going to need everyones help with that. Let me know what you think
post #6 of 61
"The size of the box would not be a hindrance as I have a large space to place it."

famous last words. :-)

that is a large room that could benefit from some large enclosures since pressure vessel gain isn't going to be significant.

how about FOUR 10 cubic footers tuned to 15hz using the dayton rss460ho driver and a behringer inuke 3000dsp (2200 real watts)?

nice big fat full reference (including re-directed bass) down to 15hz. josh at data-bass.com just posted a test of the driver and they are very low distortion.

post #7 of 61
Thread Starter 
Are we talking about 4 enclosures here or 4 x 10's in 1 enclosure. If it's four enclosers that is not the route I want to go. I would not object to 2 enclosures. Also, the recommendation on the Dayton sub. Is that a good quality sub for a project like this? Pricing? What about the amp. How is the pricing on that. I threw out earlier a JL sub as I know quietly on that is good but I am planning on going with the recommendations from the group here. So if I'm throwing out items that shouldn't be considered please let me know and I will move the direction of the search in the direction recommended here. Thanks guys and keep them coming. I think if I figure out the equipment the box should be a much easier project. Thanks again.
post #8 of 61
lol, like i said, famous last words. :-)

the model shows four 18" drivers, with each one in a 10 cubic foot ported cab.

the amp runs $400 and includes dsp.

the drivers are around $250 ea.

if you go with two subs, you will get a little more power per sub from the amp, so subtract about 5db from the model that i posted for what 2 would do.
post #9 of 61
Thread Starter 
Ok. Took a look at the amp/dsp and I'm diggin that. Do they make plate amps with this power or are they just over priced. So this route the sub would be passive and powered by the behring. I think on the subs I would not like to go greater than a 15. Honestly I would prefer a 12, but if that's not going to do the job then a 15 or 18 it is. Any other recommendations on a sub or is the Dayton the quality I would be looking for. Let hit this a little more before we start looking at possible box design. Keep it coming. Also if anyone there is pics of there please attach I'd like some ideas. Thank everyone.
post #10 of 61
Thread Starter 
Did a little more thinking in this. I want to go with 2 enclosures with 1 x 12" driver in each. These will be ported. So let me know recommendation on a 12 sub. Looking around I see peerless, Dayton and TC Sound. What are you thoughts on these and also a recommendation on model numbers for them. Let's also revisit the amp. I do like the suggestion on the Behringer but I think I want to go with am amp plate for each. Thoughts there. After this we can look at box building. I would like to move on this project as I would like to have it complete by mid December. Thanks again guys
post #11 of 61
well, here is one option for the amp:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=300-752

and one option for the driver:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=293-650

two drivers in 5 cubic feet ea tuned to 18hz.

post #12 of 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

well, here is one option for the amp:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=300-752
and one option for the driver:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=293-650
two drivers in 5 cubic feet ea tuned to 18hz.

Can't he get that out of one F20 and 300 watts?

I mean if size isn't an issue and all. I'm surprised no one mentioned a horn yet.
post #13 of 61
Thread Starter 
I am up to going up to a 10 cubic foot enclosure . Not sure about going much larger, but if it will create better performance I am ok with it. Also remember this is going to be a porter sub as I am looking at using them for HT almost 100% of the time. Thanks guys keep the info and ideas coming
post #14 of 61
"Can't he get that out of one F20 and 300 watts?"

yes. the benefit of multiple sources also figures in.
post #15 of 61
Thread Starter 
Without doing the quick research what's the f20 and which 300 watt amp
post #16 of 61
post #17 of 61
Thread Starter 
Very Interesting on the design but size in that is larger than what I'm looking for. I don't mind a large size but I think I would like to stick around 10 cube or under. Keep the input coming. Looking at 2 enclosures ported 1 x 12 inch driver in each with a plate amp preferable
post #18 of 61

I'm a little confused with your posts... lol, if you can answer these questions.

 

Why a 12" driver? Bigger is usually better when it comes to subs, 15" at least for home theater.

 

Are you planning on TWO 10 cubic ft enclosures or TWO 5 cubic ft enclosures???

 

What is your budget for drivers and amp? $500? $$1000? Money no object??


Edited by Mrkazador - 11/17/12 at 5:02pm
post #19 of 61
Thread Starter 
Ok let me help clarify. I'm not really set on a enclosure size but would like to stay under 10 cubic foot. If I can accommodate the output for my room size above I would prefer 1 enclosure but the room is large so I'm thinking I may need 2 enclosures. I am not set on a sub size so if a 12 would not generate the output I would look larger. Budget wise I am good up to 1000 but if I can keep it lower that would be ideal. I am also looking at ported. Let me know also what designs and port size is ideal. So I'm trying to narrow down what sub and amp so we can come up with a box design. Time frame is to be complete by mid December. I'm looking for something that rumbles and pounds. My current sub that I'm going to be replacing is a paradigm ps1000. Pretty sure whatever we come up with here should blow that thing away. So that being said if I can great output from 1 enclosure I'd love to go that route, but would be up to building 2. Let me know if that help on the clarification side or if you need more input
post #20 of 61
Thread Starter 
So guys. What are we thinking 1 enclosure or 2. What size 12 or 15". Amp size? Model information. Thanks again
post #21 of 61
sounds like you just want to build a ported hsu sub for less money.

the f20 will blow it away.
post #22 of 61
The F20 will blow it away and it's a heck of a lot cheaper... It is a big cabinet but if you can handle it you'll be amazed at the output. I have one and absolutely am amazed at it every time I turn it on. I have a bunch of big speakers on my soundstage though so it fit right in on mine. You can also lay it on it's side if that fits your room better. It's worth considering.
post #23 of 61
Thread Starter 
No thats no the goal at all. I've never heard one. If I wanted to buy a sub I probably would have already bought one. As far as making a copy and trying to save a couple bucks that's not it at all as it's really not worth the work to do that. I am looking to fill my space with some great, deep, loud bone raddleing bass. I posted looking for everyones input. If I can accomplish this with 1 closure great if not I'm up to doing 2. Size of woofer does not mater to me much either. I'm going to run with your suggestions here as you all are much more experienced in every aspect of this then I am. I respect scruples input greatly. I am opened minded to king pretty much anything to accomplish this but looking for a footprint of under 10 cubic foot. So let go from there. If I can get a sub/subs and amp/amps narrowed down in the next day I can get them on order and begin the process. I am hitting the hardware store tomorrow to pick up some paint for the house and can also pick up some wood at that time. So I guess the first thing is let's decide on a sub or subs and the power to push it.thanks
post #24 of 61
Thread Starter 
Is there something similar to the F20 design that would take a smaller footprint
post #25 of 61
Thread Starter 
Sorry about that were it says scruples input. I meant everyones input. Spell auto correct sometimes not such a good thing. Sorry again about that
post #26 of 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bstloukal1 View Post

Is there something similar to the F20 design that would take a smaller footprint


There is the TubaHT but that is 36x36x24. Lots of bends and angles in this enclosure so it might not be as easy as the F20.

http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/THT.html

 

With your budget I was thinking you could go with two 300-500w BASH plate amps and two 15" Dayton drivers or the new 18" Dayton drivers. Build two ported 10cubic ft enclosures tuned to around 18-20hz.

post #27 of 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrkazador View Post


There is the TubaHT but that is 36x36x24.
The minimum footprint of the THTLP is 15x18 inches.
post #28 of 61
Thread Starter 
That foot print is not a problem. I don't mind going 24 x 24 by a height of 24. Let me ask what all may perceive a silly question. I was looking at different spec on 12 and 15 drivers. In most cases the 12 can handle the same or more power than a 15 and have a greater excursion with also a lower freq So what is the advantage. Is it an issue of surface area to move the air.
post #29 of 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bstloukal1 View Post

That foot print is not a problem. I don't mind going 24 x 24 by a height of 24.
If that's as large as you can go it takes horns off the table.
Quote:
Let me ask what all may perceive a silly question. I was looking at different spec on 12 and 15 drivers. In most cases the 12 can handle the same or more power than a 15 and have a greater excursion with also a lower freq So what is the advantage. Is it an issue of surface area to move the air.
Look at the specs more closely. If all else is equal save for the cone area (Sd) then the larger driver will have higher displacement (Vd) as well. If all else is not equal you're comparing an apple with an orange.
post #30 of 61
Thread Starter 
Ok. That's kind of what I thought. Im going with a 15 driver. Let me know suggestions here as to what drivers and model numbers will produce some good quality and high spl. Remember this is for almost 100% HT
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