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Build or Buy a HT Sub? - Page 2

post #31 of 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bstloukal1 View Post

Ok. That's kind of what I thought. Im going with a 15 driver. Let me know suggestions here as to what drivers and model numbers will produce some good quality and high spl. Remember this is for almost 100% HT

Then I would go with two of the subs LTD02 recommended.
post #32 of 61
Thread Starter 
I have decided to go with a Dayton RSS390hf-15 for the sub. I am planning on going with the Dayton Audio SPA500 500W Subwoofer Plate Amplifier. If the Bash amp is a better unit please let me know on this and i will change my route on the amp. Now if I can get some help on a ported box design. I would like to have it tuned around 18. Please help me out on size and port size. thanks again.
post #33 of 61
here is roughly what you are looking at:

15-hf driver, 8 cubic feet net internal, tuned to around 18hz.

as for the port, 2"x18" x32" long.

the first two port dimensions can change so long as the area is kept the same and the port length is kept the same.

e.g. 2"x18" =36"^2, so you could equally well do a 6"x6"=36"^2. if both are kept at 32", both will tune the cab to 18hz.

post #34 of 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bstloukal1 View Post

That foot print is not a problem. I don't mind going 24 x 24 by a height of 24.

24x24x24 is around 6.582 cubic feet internal volume. This is a lot smaller than 10 cubic feet...You're looking at something like 24x24x36 for 10 cubic feet.

 

I don't think the Dayton 500w plate has a high pass filter which is needed to protect the driver when in a ported enclosure. The Bash 500w plate amp does have one but you need to solder new resistors. I believe it can be set to 18.7hz but I'm not so sure, the boost tables always confused me.

 

Here are 3 different designs...

1000

 

 

Red -

ONE Dayton RSS390HF-4 15"

5.5 cubic feet 

Tuned to 19hz / highpass at 19hz

ONE 2x10x23.5" slot port

500w

 

 

Yellow -

ONE Dayton RSS460HO-4 18"

Sealed 4.5 cubic feet

500w

 

Light Blue -

TWO Dayton RSS390HF-4 15"

Sealed 6 cubic feet

500w

post #35 of 61
Thread Starter 
sounds good I will be looking at doing a enclosure of 25h x 24w x 28d with 2 x 3" x 18" ports. If i can also get some clarification on the high pass filters on these 2 items so not to run into a driver issue. If anyone has experience on this please let me know what i need or what needs to be done. thanks again
post #36 of 61
"sounds good I will be looking at doing a enclosure of 25h x 24w x 28d with 2 x 3" x 18" ports"

clarification, what are you planning with the ports?
post #37 of 61
Thread Starter 
What would the recommendation be for ports with this I believe the volume on his size enclosure is about the same as mocked up above about 8 cube foot. Let me know if this will work and what recommendation you would have on the ports. I don't mind doing 2 or 3 ports. Thanks again
post #38 of 61
a slot port that is 1.5" high x 22.5" wide (your 24" cab minus the sides) x 30 inches long will tune an 8 cubic foot net internal to 18hz.

just make sure the include the volume of the port, panels, bracing, and driver, as you finalize your dimensions.

the slot port will run toward the back of the cabinet and then make a turn going up. just add the two lengths to get to the total length.
post #39 of 61
Thread Starter 
Would it be possible to use a standard type port with the size above. The largest on depth that I would like to go would be 30. I could increase width and height if needed. So I could make adjustments to to width and height if needed to get to the desired size for a standard port. That being said what could we do for an enclosure now with standard type cylinder ports. Thanks again for all the help. I'd like to get this hashed out so I can pick up some wood and start cutting this week.
post #40 of 61
a six inch diameter round port that is 25 inches long would work.

or, you could do TWO 4 inch diameter round ports that are 24 inches long.
post #41 of 61
Thread Starter 
Would the 2 x 4" port be with my size of 25 x 24 x 28. I looked online for a reference guide for this but the ones I found didn't appear to make the proper adjustments when I put my paramets in. Is there a good one out there.
post #42 of 61
Thread Starter 
On an amp plate for this does anyone have suggestions to deal with the high pass as not to kill the driver?
post #43 of 61
Thread Starter 
Would a recomemdation of 1" mdf be overkill or would 3/4" be good
post #44 of 61
The Oaudio Bash 500 plate amp has a selectable high pass filter built in...

http://www.oaudio.com/500W_SUBAMP.html

I'm using one on my F20 and it's been completely transparent since I hooked it up. It just works.
post #45 of 61
Thread Starter 
The oaudio 500 is currently out of stock on their site. I was recommended to me to go with the Dayton SPA1000 for this setup, but the reviews on the partsexpress site are not very good. It apairs there is alot of quality issues with it. Does anyone have any input on this or experience with this amp. Let me know what direction I should go because I would hate to have to replace an amp every few months that just doesnt make sense. Please help me on this one
post #46 of 61
Thread Starter 
Let me know if anyone has any input on the amp question. Is the Dayton SPA1000 going to be reliable or is it more of a crap shoot. If these is quality issues with it what would be a good option? Ive bought the wood for this project and will start cutting this weekend. Once I get the cuts done I would like to purchase the essential items like the sine ports and amp and the only thing I'm still up in the air on is the amp. Thanks again everyon.
post #47 of 61
Thread Starter 
On another note what has everyone from the finishing side. Paint or veneer? If so what type? Is there a link in the forum to pics of completed diy subs.
post #48 of 61

I think oaudio 500w amp is more suited for sealed subs, it uses a lot of boost down low. I don't know how many watts the Dayton amplier puts out but 1000w is too much. It also does not have a high pass filter that I can see. I would go with the 500w bash amp but the default high pass filter needs to be modified. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong...

I finished my subs with satin black paint. Theres a link to my build in my signature. It came out OK, maybe a tad too glossy. Lots of people like Duratex for its finish and durability.

post #49 of 61
Thread Starter 
First, to all, have a great thanksgiving. I dig the black, but how much time did you put into the finish? Man hours in that must have been a long time. I have decided on the box size. It will be 26 13/16 cubes with 2 x 3" ports at 13 1/4". This should tune to about 16hz. I received more input on the Dayton spa1000 amp. I am told it has a subsonic filter at about 18hz. Let me know from everyones experience if this filter will do the job or if I need to go another route ive seen the input on the oaudio amp but they are currently out of stock.
post #50 of 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bstloukal1 View Post

I dig the black, but how much time did you put into the finish? Man hours in that must have been a long time.

I got impatient and didn't take my time with the paint. I put two coats of primer which I didn't sand down and two of the black paint. I probably spent half a day painting and the next day they were in my living room. They actually look decent in the room, can't see a lot of the imperfections unless you examine it with a flash light.

 

If the Dayton amp has a subsonic filter at 18hz then you probably want to tune the enclosure to 18hz. Would be pointless to tune lower as it begins to roll off at 18hz

post #51 of 61
Thread Starter 
Looks great can't see any imperfections on the pics
post #52 of 61
Thread Starter 
Possible change of mind on the amp here. What if I went external with the Behringer inuke 1000. Bridged mono it's putting out 1000w which is overkill but would it have all the functions needed to control and power the sub in the enclosure I plan to do. Has anyone tried this. If so what is the difficulty of incorporating this versus a plate amp. I decided to look this route as some of the reviews I see on the Dayton have quality issues. One in perticular is the hum and sleep mode pop. That's nothing I think I want to deal with if it's a hard fix. Thoughts??
post #53 of 61
you'd need the nu1000dsp for the signal processing and you might need a $10 fan mod to quiet it down.

the dsp is very easy to use and has all kinds of features.
post #54 of 61
Thread Starter 
Is is a better option than the plate amps. Is it something you would recommend doing
post #55 of 61

You get more watts per $$$ with pro amps than plate amps. Some problems you might run into is fan noise and signal levels. Pro amps use higher signal levels than consumer gear so your receiver may not put out enough voltage from the lfe ouput but most do anyways.

post #56 of 61
Thread Starter 
I assume you guys have diy subs. If so what type amp are you all using
post #57 of 61
Keep in mind the inuke 1000 putts out a max of 1000. I haven't looked at those plate amps to see what they're doing, but here are the specs for the inuke:

Stereo:

2 x 110 @ 8 Ohm
2 x 210 @ 4 Ohm
2 x 380 @ 2 Ohm


Bridged Mono

1 x 430 @ 8 Ohm
1 x 750 @ 4 Ohm.

If you're only doing one this amp would be great, if you're doing 2 ( I can't tell from the previous posts, but it looks like you decided on just one) it would lack a bit of power I think.

I was using the inuke3000DSP on my 2 dayton MKIII 15" drivers and it was a near perfect match. However, I was doing a sealed box as some guys talked me into sealed over ported. I originally wanted to go ported, but now I'm glad I didn't. My room has a huge drop below about 22 Hz and I wanted sub 20 Hz. If I had a ported I would not really be able to boost down low to make up for the lull, but with sealed I can boost a little down there to help flatten it. I probably lose a little bit up top for not using ported, but honestly, I don't listen to it loud enough often enough to notice the difference. Way better to sacrifice a few dB at 60 Hz in luei of a few dB at 17...just my opinion on the matter.

Oh and here is hte link to the behringer brochure that lists the RMS numbers for the inuke series amps. http://www.behringer.com/assets/NU1000_NU3000_NU6000_NU1000DSP_NU3000DSP_NU6000DSP_WebBrochure.pdf
post #58 of 61
"I probably lose a little bit up top for not using ported..."

the benefit of ported is not up top, but rather is around the tuning frequency where you can pick up around 10db vs. sealed in many instances.
post #59 of 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

"I probably lose a little bit up top for not using ported..."
the benefit of ported is not up top, but rather is around the tuning frequency where you can pick up around 10db vs. sealed in many instances.

You're right (as if you didn't know that) I think I'm confused and remembering that my port tune was going to be 19 or 21 Hz if I went ported, anyway I won't threadjack any more
post #60 of 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bstloukal1 View Post

I assume you guys have diy subs. If so what type amp are you all using

I use the EP4000 which is a rebadged EP2500 which was tested here

 

http://www.avsforum.com/t/855865/measuring-amplifiers/0_100#post_10753603

http://www.avsforum.com/t/855865/measuring-amplifiers/0_100#post_10753638

http://www.avsforum.com/t/855865/measuring-amplifiers/0_100#post_10755537

http://www.avsforum.com/t/855865/measuring-amplifiers/0_100#post_10755565

 

Puts out good power, tested by many, and not very expensive especially if you can get a used one. 

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