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"I don't want a projector" - new basement build - Page 3

post #61 of 81
Just buld a shallow closet from floor to ceiling with a normal closet door positioned so that you have a straight shot to the panel. Don't put anything flammable in it or block access to the panel. Keep it shallow so that nobody is tempted to use it for storage.
post #62 of 81
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Colm View Post

Just buld a shallow closet from floor to ceiling with a normal closet door positioned so that you have a straight shot to the panel. Don't put anything flammable in it or block access to the panel. Keep it shallow so that nobody is tempted to use it for storage.

I like your idea, the only thing I don't really like is the idea of having a "closet" intruding into the bedroom. Maybe I could find some half height bifold doors and build up from the wall (~3') instead of directly from the floor.
post #63 of 81
What about louvered shutters for over the panel? You could even backlight it for effect.
post #64 of 81
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gitSehT View Post

What about louvered shutters for over the panel? You could even backlight it for effect.

Hmm. Interesting.

The idea I've been kicking around the last couple of days is to buy a set of closet bifold doors to fit (lets say 30" wide) frame accordingly but cut the bottom part off. If I went with the half arch top only I think the bifold would look pretty good? door.jpg 2k .jpg file
post #65 of 81
Any thoughts about picking a painting to put in front of the panel? It'd be big, but might add something fun to look at.

I like your thread. Basement is looking very nice.
post #66 of 81
Thread Starter 
So things have been going very slowly, I've been working a lot the last couple weeks. All the doors have been hung. I'm not a pro but I thought maybe I'd share my experience with hanging doors and what worked for me.

Hanging Doors:

Tools needed:

Brad Nailer (16-18 ga, 2" brads)
Cedar shims (lots of shims)
Utility knife
Hammer
6' level

1) The first thing I did was to assemble the frame on the ground. Separate the hinges and attach each half to the door and frame. Install a doorknob on the door and striker plate on the frame.

2) Place the frame into position and nail in three spots. Obviously you want to be sure you are flush with the drywall on both sides so that your trim fits nice. First nail goes in hinge side bottom. Nail it right against the stud. Next nail is hinge side top, again right against the stud. Third nail goes in striker plate side at the bottom. Again, tight to the stud. Do not nail the top of the striker plate side. I'll explain below.

Reasoning for nailing the bottom first: It's easier to nail the bottom first, I nailed the top first a few times and if the bottom wasn't tight to the stud it would bind against the floor if the floor wasn't perfectly level.

Reasoning for nailing tight to the studs: With brad nails, its easy to pound a shim in to bring the jamb out where you want it, but once it's out too far there is no going back. The brad nails will just bend and become a royal PITA. You don't want to nail the striker plate top side for this very reason. If you have to shim out the hinge top side you are working against the brad nail on the opposite side.

3) Put the door on its hinges and level hinge jamb. I don't know if there are pro's out there that can hang doors without doorknobs and striker plates but I can't, or at least I find it a lot easier to do with a doorknob on. It allows you throughout the whole hanging process to "test" the swing of your door. Take your 6' level and center it the best you can on the hinge side jamb. Find out what side needs to be shimmed and slowly/carefully drive a shim inbetween the jamb and stud, till perfectly level. At this time I usually test the door to see how it swings closed and if it latches or not. I found on a couple doors the latch and striker plate wouldn't line up vertically, this was usually remedied by adjusting at the hinge side bottom, but in the one case I hand an uneven floor so I actually had to cut a bit off the bottom of the striker plate side.

I usually shimmed in 4-5 places on the hinge side, when you look at your level you'll notice that there will be gaps between the level and the jamb. Slide a shim in till the gap disappears.

For shimming I usually shimmed on both sides of the doors then I nailed through the shim. On painted doors I nailed in the middle where the stopper goes and then I put 2 extra nails in on each side to make it as sturdy as possible. Painted jams are easy to repair nail holes. I didn't want any exposed nail holes on my maple jambs so I just nailed in the middle.

4) Adjust striker plate side. I shimmed out the striker plate side (bottom first) to give a uniform gap between the jamb and door.

5) Install door stopper. This part is IMO one of the most important parts of how a door feels when you close it. If the stopper isn't tight against the door you'll notice that your door rattles and generally feels cheap when you close it. Install the top stop first. You should have a partner for this. You want the stop to force the latch to sit tight against the striker plate but not too tight that the door won't close or needs to be pulled close. Fasten the top stop with brad nails. Close the door and install the hinge side stop, this is purely for looks and serves no function. I just made sure it sat nice and tight to the door without hindering operation. Finally I installed the striker plate side stop. Match it up at the top and then, again put it as tight as you can to the door without having to pull it closed.

6) Remove shims - Give a real good score on both sides with your knife and give em a quick hit with the hammer. These break pretty easy.

Again, I'm not a pro but this worked for me. Input and criticism is very welcome.

Edit: I'd like to add, I talked to a buddy of mine who has a background in finish carpentry, he advised to put hang with something a little more substantial under the stopper than just brad nails, especially on heavy maple doors. I predrilled and chamfered holes at shim locations and put in 3" screws, I don't think they'll be going anywhere now.

He also advised to have 2 scraps of 1/4" stock for the door to sit on when you are hanging, vs right on the bare concrete. Reason for this is that concrete floors are never perfectly level, and sometimes your striker plate is higher than it should be. You can just remove the stock from the striker plate side instead of having to cut the jamb.
Edited by IHaveAMullet - 6/20/13 at 12:50pm
post #67 of 81
Where is your project at? Any new pictures?
post #68 of 81
I second that! smile.gif
post #69 of 81
Thread Starter 
Trim is done, being painted as we speak. Went with a grey color. It looks a little purple but not as much as the picture suggests. Wife likes it a lot and I don't mind it so I guess its a win-win. Tried to take some pics last night but didn't turn out too good. They will be coming. I have a little bit of tiling in front of the bar area and fireplace to do before the carpet is installed on the 26th. Place is looking good.

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Electrical panel cover with diy shaker doors.

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post #70 of 81
Thread Starter 
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post #71 of 81
Thread Starter 
Couple of the gym area:

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post #72 of 81
Thread Starter 
Did some tiling yesterday, on the home stretch but still seems like so much work to do.

Maple trim up and stained (trim needs varnish coat)

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Bar area with tile (wasnt quite able to finish yesterday but good enough for the carpet guys to come in:

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Computer desk, I have some upper cabinets to stain and install. Still have to edgeband the top ply.

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Carpet coming next Thu-Fri...little more odds and ends and its tv choosing time...70" LCD or 65" Plasma....biggrin.gif Leaning to the plasma.
post #73 of 81
Thread Starter 
New remote purchased....Harmony 900. Have had 2 890's in the past but like the idea of the IR blaster vs having to stick them on the components.

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post #74 of 81
Thread Starter 
post #75 of 81
Thread Starter 
Thoughts on this tv?

Sharp Aquos LC70C7450

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post #76 of 81
Thread Starter 
^^ Done deal. Tv is ordered, can't beat dealing with Costco.

Carpet guys are downstairs at the moment; my phone is bricked so no pics for a while. frown.gif
post #77 of 81
Looking great! Can't wait to see the finished room!
post #78 of 81
Thread Starter 
Need some assistance with my thermostat/furnace. I can't get my furnace fan to run all the time ie "on". I can hear the thermostat click to give the furnace a signal to run the fan but it doesn't turn on.

Now pulling it off the wall and looking at the back I only have 4 wires where it looks like they should have pulled 5 (or 6?)

I have an orange wire running to "C"
Nothing ran to RC, but it is jumpered to RH
Red wire ran to "RH"
No wire ran to G (fan control???)
White wire to W
No wire ran to O/B
Green wire to "Y"

Now is there a way I can piggyback one of these wires, or am I just a wire short? Is it possible to run a local switch just to the basement?
70444

furnace.PNG 224k .PNG file
post #79 of 81
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by IHaveAMullet View Post

Thoughts on this tv?

Sharp Aquos LC70C7450

sharp-aquos-lc-70c7450u-front-800x600.jpg

Got it delivered on Monday...hate it. Sending it back to Costco and picking up a plasma.
post #80 of 81
Too bad the TV didnt work out. That must be a bit disappointing. What are you thinking now?
post #81 of 81
Thread Starter 
Panasonic 65" ST plasma. Not really disappointing, Costco's return policy is painless. I thought I could sacrifice PQ for 5 extra inches but man those big LCD's suck. The soap opera effect is too much.
Edited by IHaveAMullet - 7/11/13 at 8:39am
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