!!!Dayton Audio DVC385-88 15" DVC Series Subwoofer $99!!! - Page 2

This is becoming more important to me everyday!

Hey, do these drivers come with their own mounting screws? Do all drivers come with their own mounting screws?

My HO's did not come with screws, and I'm guessing these do not either. I used SPAX #10 x 1.5" screws per others recommendation on here. They seem to work quite well.

http://www.amazon.com/Spax-4101010500406-2-Inch-Construction-1-Pound/dp/B000I651RS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1354017198&sr=8-1&keywords=SPAX+%2310

Say what?? Oh man that kills my desire to upgrade to a pair of 18 HO's. I really dig that the DVC is made by Eminence in the USA. I've had good results with Eminence stuff.

No, never seen sub that came w/ mounting screws. Drywall screws work in a pinch. For machine screws, I like to buying in bulk from mcmaster. Their stuff always shows up same day.

Thanks man. How many come in a "one pound bag?" Enough for two dual opposed cabinets I presume? Is there enough to mount the other 4 drivers you are planning scooping up shortly?

There is a LOT of them in the one pound package. I think I have easily over half the package left after doing my 4 drivers, I can even count them when I get home on Thursday night though to be safe.

LMS-U come with these screws.

I currently got 4x MFWs hooked up to an EP2500 (2 on each channel).

Can I add two more of these drivers to the EP2500? Or am I asking for too much from the amp?

If yes, how do I re-wire the connections? I guess the 4x MFWs would go to 1 channel, and the 2x DVC 15 go to the other?

You can hook up as many as you want as long as you keep the impedance within the amps tolerance. Just alternate series/parallel units. Im currently running six on my EP4000. You just divide wattage by number of drivers on circuit......

Some of my drivers see less than 200w but that means im pretty safe.

As far as how: Think of a pair of drivers in parallel= 2ohms=1 unit, now series 2 units(4drivers) for 4ohms load.

Divide amp wattage by 4 drivers.

I will send you a detailed PM elaborating on my position.
Edited by popalock - 11/27/12 at 10:22am

Yes. Hook three in series and then pair up the two triple sets in parallel for a 4ohm nominal load.

The Dayton is dual 8 ohm which can be paralleled down to 4 ohm. The MFW are single 4 ohm correct?

Three 4 ohm drivers wired in series will make a 12 ohm load per set. Paralleling each set would make a 6 ohm load. Though not optimal, this is the best he could hope for if he is looking to implement two of these Dayton drivers.

However, he would lose amp efficiency would pretty much negate any potential gain from adding the additional drivers. Scott, how about a sim to confirm… =) lol…

That's their 'nominal' ohm rating though I know from many times looking at their T/S numbers that their Re is closer to 3ohm so you're looking at end result of near 4ohm for all six loaded on an ep2500. However at 4ohm bridged the ep2500/4000 will only give you ~1,600w or so. Maybe more. You're not going to have a lot of power for all six drivers with this amp. You'll want/need something more powerful if that's what you're going for.

I could sim it but I don't need to. You're looking at about an extra 3dB of output potential with two more like drivers. Easy.

So get this guys...

Sale ends on 3 Dec. Price is going to jump up to $139.95.

I asked PE how many they had in stock and they told me that they, "can't divulge that information."

But they did say that they can let me know if they can fulfill my order. I told them I wanted 50 of them and they said they can accomodate. So they still have plenty in stock, but expect a 40% price hike on Monday!

No, I'm not buying 50, just inquired to see if they had a decent amount in stock.

lol...call back and tell them you want 500.

that should give us a better idea how much they have in stock.

Anyone know what size hurricane nuts to use for this driver. I've always wanted to try the fancy ones that was highly recommend mentioned on another thread:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=081-1080

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=081-1082

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=081-1084

I used 8/32

Keep adding them to your cart until it says insufficient stock, that will be how many they have. Last time I checked they still had >110 left

That's no good. That's barely enough to cover 4 builds from people in this forum.

1/4 is the biggest that will fit. Use #10 or 1/4. #8 is for little speakers.

Well played...

Thanks for posting this, I ordered 4. Let the fun begin!

Just a warning, make sure to test you drivers.

I could not pass this deal up and ordered a pair. They got here today and I pulled them out to have a look. The foam gasket on the front of one of woofers had come loose in a couple spots, due to shipping I'm sure. That was an easy fix.

I started doing some free air testing to check for noise and such. First thing I noticed is that the tinsel leads seem to slap the back of the cone before reaching xmax. I pushed those off to the sides and down some which fixed that problem. Anyway I turn it up a little more (have it set on a 15hz sinewave) and I start to hear a soft clanking noise, hmm. I know I can't be at the mechanical limits yet, the cone only looks to be doing at most 1" peak to peak. If I turn it up the clanking gets louder. I switch over to the other driver and can push it much harder up closer to 2" peak to peak without any bad noises at all. I know something is wrong with the driver, I play around with it a little more and finally found the problem:



Looks like about 1/3 of it has cracked and come loose. Nice to find on a brand spanking new driver

So who's got an idea on what to use to glue that back down? I am thinking JB Weld but am open to other suggestions.

I know but I'm cheap and don't want to pay the shipping back

Which part of the speaker is that exactly? I ordered one as well and I hope that doesn't happen to mine as it was $105 for shipping already...

Basically the spider sits up on a plastic ring which gives it more clearance. It is that ring which has pulled away on one side.




I am going to try gluing mine back on and will post the results.

A couple of my MFW-15 woofers did that and Danny recommended that I use a 2 part epoxy. I did that and let it cure and never had an issue again. I tested all of them free air for like two days and all was fine.

I did the same with some of the MFW drivers and the epoxy works just fine.

Are you using a two channel amplifier? If so, one important consideration is to test both subs on the same channel. So if one sub clearly performs better than the other, just make sure you try the other sub that is giving you problems on the same channel of amplification.

I say this speaking from experience because my dumb a$$ started a thread pretty much smack talking a sub manufacturer only to find out 1 one of my amp channels was the problem!


Don't glue it!!! Don't touch it... Contact PE immediately!


That is what sets PE apart from most other companies. Their customer service is top notch! They will send FedEx to pick the driver up from your house. You DO NOT have to pay for return shipping.
Edited by popalock - 11/30/12 at 12:57pm

It prob happened during shipping, they are pretty brutal with stuff.

Bet it looks like this:



Thats what some MFWs I saw did during shipping. If PE will replace them I'd get that done, bc all bets are off if you start slapping epoxy in there. They might even tell you to keep em, in which case it should be an easy fix.