Ack's DIY Subwoofer Build Idea Thread - Newbie Alert! - Page 4

Answered my own question:
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/spl-meters-mics-calibration-sound-cards/63808-minidsp-umik-1-microphone.html#axzz2EfWaKcIq

Where I am debating is I currently do not have a Windows computer. I had a Windows netbook that had a hard drive crash and have just been running Ubuntu via usb fob, otherwise I am strictly a Mac guy. I have a 4 year old iMac collecting dust right now that would be perfect for the media room and I would love to get REW installed. Just not sure on the connection from the iMac to the receiver... I will need to research if this is possible, and I have seen folks really struggling getting REW running on a Mac, To the point that I might replace the harddrive on my netbook and try to reinstall Windows 7.

Seems like this omni mic is a great deal with REW, so I would really love to get this working..

Well as I go down this road I am sure I will have questions, but that seems straight forward. Thank you again, I don't know what I would do without members like you.

If you would have told me just a few years ago that I would be building my own subwoofers I would have laughed at you

This one?:
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI

Okay, this may be easier than I thought

I think the above combined with that minidsp mic would be a potent combo... Might just go ahead and pull the trigger for a little over $100...

Actually with the new MiniDsp mic and a Mac, I don't need an external sound card, it is all built into the mic.

Should just be plug and play with REW, although I am still uncertain how to generate test tones, something has to go from the laptop to the amp?

I think I am going to pull the trigger on the Minidsp mic as soon as a few more reviews are in. The one thing (aside from cost) of the Omnimic system was the lack of Mac/Linux support. I don't have Windows, so for me it would be a hassle.

We have wood! For the subwoofers that is. I broke down and bought baltic birch as it was on sale locally. I started at Home Depot and their birch looked horrible. Voids, splintered, a real mess. Menards had it for considerably less and the boards looked much better. As part of buttering up the wife for letting me add four subwoofers to the mix, I am also building lockers for my wife in the mud room at the same time.

Alas, I would have had everything cut today but I spent about 3 hours trying to find my fence guide for my table saw.. No dice... I had a router, nice level, and mitre saw go missing after we moved halfway across the country and I fear the fence guide may have been kidnapped with the other tools (gotta love moving companies who charge an arm and a leg and still take your things).

Bosch plunge/fixed router is on the way from Big River..

So time to make a ghetto fabulous fence guide (I am thinking with a level and some clamps). Hoping the weather allows, we are expecting sleet/snow wintry mix tomorrow... Ugh..

I have about 12 days off coming up, so I should be able to build the subs and complete the lockers. I had to move the Dayton woofers and iNuke sub out of my sight because I was getting too ansy..

Stay tuned...
Edited by ack_bk - 12/14/12 at 7:39pm

Duratex roller grade black ordered... I am going for more of a smooth look vs textured so I will be applying with a smooth foam roller. Not going to prime, and I am hoping two coats will do the trick. I am going to have to do this in a spare bedroom in our basement and will be pulling out the space heaters so it will dry/cure quicker (since it is about 5 degrees outside).

Will be cutting on Friday. This arrived today:



Excited to try out my Jasper jig too, I have never used one... This is a nice break from my information security job...

Thanks for the tip, I will keep that in mind.

Yeah, living in Minnesota in the winter has its drawbacks. But Duratex is not going to do well in sub zero temperatures so I have to do it in doors.

I will watch for 2 vs 3 coats, I don't mind another coat. Also, I know drying time is a couple of hours and curing time is about a week or so, but can I use the subs while they cure?

Thank you, I was starting to get nervous

One more question (yeah right). I am planning on clamping and glueing using Titebond. Is it easiest to:
glue the bottom, sides, ends (front and back) along with the bracing first, then glue the additional front baffle and top last?

Also, can I just use a bead of Titebond on all the inside seams to make sure everything is sealed well, or is this step even necessary? My experience with Titebond is that the glue is stronger than the wood and there is a very good seal, but I know with subwoofers you don't want any air leakage.

That makes sense.

I have used PL Premium before with good success on other construction projects but I remember it being very messy... That said, the expansion benefit makes it worth a little extra mess IMHO so I will pick some up. For a sealed sub, I don't want to risk having any air leaks and PL Premium seems like added protection.

Tomorrow is S-Day (saw day).. Trying to get all my ducks in a row before I start. I hope to get everything cut tomorrow so I can start gluing. Duratex is supposed to arrive Monday (12/24) but we have a big Midwest storm coming so it may slow down deliveries. My goal is to have everything cut and glued by EOD 12/27. That leaves me a couple of days for rounding, sanding, etc. Hope to have all subs completed by New Years Day....

I know I am going to have lots of questions on wiring for the iNuke...

Well, there were two boxes in my garage that were hard to get to, but I was bound and determine.. Guide fence found! Eating lunch now and I underestimated the wood, but this is going smooth. Will have all four subs cut by the end of the day and should have time to start routing....


Some action shots!

Oh, and yes there is MDF mixed in there with Baltic Birch. Since I am doubling up on the baffle wall, I thought it would be cheaper to use MDF on the inner baffle since you won't see it, and BB for the front baffle.

The wood for all four subs has been cut. So glad I put a new 60 tooth blade in the table saw, it cut through everything like butter, especially MDF. I picked up a couple of tubes of PL Premium to ensure I get a good seal. I probably would have had some holes cut late yesterday but I was not familiar with the Jasper jig and needed to read up so I knew what I was doing, and then there was an issue with my 1/2 collet on my new Bosch router that I had to resolve (it was stuck). Thanks to living in Minnesota and Winter Solstice, it was pretty much getting dark by 4:30 yesterday so I ran out of daylight.

I should have all the holes cut today and I need to make braces. I would love to start glueing today, but I am going to be really busy with kids, wife and Christmas plans over the next 3+ days... I do think I can have everything done by New Year's...

I also got a Darbee Darblet and it has cut into my time since I have been playing with that quite a bit.. Pretty impressive little device...

Yeah... Life got in the way with three small kids and parties... Wood is still ready for the Jasper, and I don't see it happening until Wednesday....

Was able to cut all the baffles.. I have to say, I love the Jasper Jig... Thing is easy as cake, and the Bosch router is so much better than the cheap one it replaced. I also cut all the braces yesterday as well. That said, it was about 10 degrees outside when I was doing all this work, but at least the sun was out. I will post some pictures shortly. I have some family stuff going on today but hope to start assembling boxes today and tomorrow..

I am still not sure the best way to wire all this up, nograveconcern, which would you recommend bi-amp or bridging? If I bridge, does that mean all speakers are wired in parallel off one channel in bridged mode for a 2 ohm load?

The wiring is my biggest weak spot in all of this....

Are you saying something like this:



Or do I want something like this: