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Soundproofing Windows

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 

Does anyone know if these are good for sound proofing a Home theater. I was planning on sealing them around my glass block windows.
post #2 of 17
Not at all.
post #3 of 17
You would be better off filling the cavity between the window and the drywall (assuming you are drywalling over the window) with loose fiberglass insulation. Ideally you would have two layers of drywall with Green Glue decoupled from the room framing with the fiberglass in the cavities. Soundproofing has to be approached systematically.
post #4 of 17
Thread Starter 
Well here is my exterior wall setup. XPS rigid foam panels against the concrete, then stud framing over that with batt insulation in between studs. All of this is going over the windows so would that be sufficient or should i add even more batts just for the windows?
post #5 of 17
Are you doing two layers of drywall and green glue in between the layers of drywall? That would be ok but, I would build a window plug that fits into the windows cavity. Something along the lines of two layers of mdf with green glue in between them and some type of perimeter gasket.
post #6 of 17
Thread Starter 
yes i am doing DD and GG but not decoupling, I simply cannot afford to lose anymore room or anymore of my wallet lol. When you say perimeter gasket are you referring to an acoustical sealant caulk?
post #7 of 17
No, a gasket that inserts around the plug itself to friction fit it in the window space that will seal it and hold it in place. You can't decouple? That plays a big roll in sound proofing. Need more back story but, walls can be decoupled from ceiling joists. Not sure why that would take up room space. For the wall(s) that are parallel to the concrete 2 x 4's spaced away from the concrete and inch or just slightly under is good. For the walls that are shared with another part of the basement you could do a staggered stud wall(s) and the ceiling can use clips and drywall channel. You can use nailors in between the joists to put the clips on to save ceiling height instead of placing the clips on the joists themselves.
post #8 of 17
Thread Starter 
Well for the exterior walls the studs are not going to be against the concrete wall. There is 2inch thick xps board between the cement and the studs. Will that suffice? Yes i am Decoupling the ceiling as that is a major weak point and i'm actually doing it just like you said. I'm not putting furring channels or anything like that on the exterior walls as it's just too pricey and takes up slightly more room. I did plan on staggering the interior walls however and doing DD+GG+batts.(this should be sufficient right?)

What would you recommend for said gasket.

Also I have to do the furring channels like mentioned for my ceiling, however that makes it tricky for my backer boxes for my 6" can lights. I'm trying to figure it out but any advice would help. Here is a picture of the setup I plan for my ceiling but trouble with the backer boxes.

post #9 of 17
Thread Starter 
What would you recommend for a gasket? I'm looking and can't find much. Just point me in the right direction:)
post #10 of 17
Sounds like your on the right track then. I'm not doing clips on the walls either but, my walls are not touching the joists except every 4 ft with the other style of clips to isolate the 4 walls of the room from the ceiling. Depending on the size of your room shouldn't be very high dollar. Might be well worth it. The walls would just be an inch short of the joists and then the clips. Maybe one of the other guys can chime in on the gasket, I haven't started my window plug yet. I know i'm using a couple of layers of mdf and gg for the mass and damping in my window well but, haven't looked into a specific gasket material yet. So much to do!
post #11 of 17
Thread Starter 
I was looking at ASC and they have a formed window treatment complete with gasket, does anyone know anything about these or a price?


Tom do you have any suggestions for a proper gasket sir?
post #12 of 17
Thread Starter 
Here is a pic of the window. The cavitiy is only 3/4" I was thinking of covering the window with acoustic putty then 1/2" drywall over that then sealing it with acoustic sealant in the cavity.
post #13 of 17
If I understand correctly, the heavy lifting for your soundproofing is handled by the DD+GG (the damped mass). I've seen several variations of the window plug, but I get the impression that the soundproofed plugs are intended for people that need access to the window. In your case I'd be temped to just fill the cavity to prevent any resonant issues. If that is correct, then you can fill that window cavity will f.g, or foam boards, etc, etc. 3/4" is not much space to get any significant absorption.

If it was my window, I'd probably fill it will 3/4 foam board since you are planning foam board over ithe cavity anyway. Just make sure it's attached well so that it doesn't vibrate back there. Then put your f.g. batts in the wall cavity as you mentioned for absorption. If you need to be able to get to that window, then just ignore this smile.gif
post #14 of 17
If it were my window, it wouldn't exist any more.

That's a cinder block wall, right? Setting new cinder blocks is easy.
post #15 of 17
Thread Starter 
No once the walls go up those windows are done lol. Thanks for the advice, would you recommend sealing the board with acoustic caulk?
post #16 of 17
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

If it were my window, it wouldn't exist any more.
That's a cinder block wall, right? Setting new cinder blocks is easy.

When you put it like that, it sounds so obvious smile.gif I certainly agree that no window would be the best option. I would continually worry about leaks with a covered window.

If taking out the window is an option, then I change my vote!
post #17 of 17
Thread Starter 
Taking out the window is not an option. My wife would have a fit, convincing her to cover them was hard enough. Plus when we bought the house we paid to have the glass block put in(before i had any aspirations for a HT).
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