or Connect
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Alabama Theater Build

post #1 of 28
Thread Starter 
I am hoping that I can get some advice words of wisdom on my room layout. I have looked for many ideas and have not really found any that have an entry door similar to my room layout if I go with option 1. If anyone can send me to a link of a room that is like this please direct me in the correct direction so I can get some ideas. The left wall is currently 4 ft but can make it back to 7ft to square out the room.

Option 1 I will shorten my room due to the seats in front of the door.

Option 2 has a ceiling height issue for the rear row.

post #2 of 28
What does the space outside the theater look like? Can you move the door? What about a door that swings out rather than in?

If the door can enter at riser height, and it can swing out rather than in, I think option1 could work. You would just omit the center seat on the back row and it would be an aisle.
post #3 of 28
Seems to me that the rear rows in option 1 are just too close to the rear wall. Move them forward and make the screen smaller if necessary. 22' is enough for two normal rows and AT screen - you can't fill the whole front wall with screen and expect the front row to be at a good distance.
post #4 of 28
The Cinemar Home Theater build has an entry door centered on the back wall in a 23' deep room. Link

As HopefulFred suggested, you should have plenty of room to slide the front row a little closer to the screen, leaving enough room for your 2nd row PLUS access. I'd try to keep the aisles to the sides of the room. If you split your back row, you're forcing everyone in the front row to walk directly in front of everyone in the back row on their way to the door to use the restroom.
Edited by Spaceman - 11/21/12 at 7:49pm
post #5 of 28
+1 to the above posts. Didn't stop to think about the overall dimensions. Too much turkey on the brain I suppose. The Cinemar thread is practically mandatory reading these days. I'd highly recommend you take a look as well.
post #6 of 28
Thread Starter 
I agree with Cinemar read...I spent 4 hours reading it last night, incredible what he has done. I made the mistake and showed my wife some pictures, now she gave me the full go ahead as long as I can make ours resemble his.

This afternoon in a turkey coma I did some demo and will be going back to layout 1.

The door is at the top of the stairs to the left and can't move it. I thought about making it swing into the hall but then it would over lap a bathroom entry and would have to shut the theater door to get in the bathroom. We decided to have it swing in and make an immediate right turn up onto the riser and enter on the right side. I will draw something up to avoid confusion.

I will add some current room pics tomorrow after I clean it up.

Run down on what I have and will use in the room.

Projector: Not sure yet I say AE 8000 wife says to much and get something half the cost, are there any places that I could order 2 and see what we like better and return 1?

Speakers: I bought some Sonance Cinema Ultra's when I built the house 3 years ago. Still sitting in the boxes

Pre/pro: Emotiva UPA7 Emotiva UMC bought 2 years ago as a gift to myself during one of the sales they had. Seen day light once then back in there boxes.

Sub: TUBA HT with Barringer 2500 AMP

Bluray: Oppo 103


Automation: Insteon home grown system
post #7 of 28
Thread Starter 
JPA where in L.A. you? I'm in Dothan Area.
post #8 of 28
Thread Starter 
Didnt get around to cleaning theater room. It was so nice out I worked on the pool stone work that I neglected all summer.
Edited by allybuck64 - 11/23/12 at 8:37pm
post #9 of 28
I'm near Auburn. I've been through Dothan my fair share of times on the annual Spring Break pilgrimage to Panama City (back in the day). I've even made my donation to the Dothan City Traffic Court smile.gif Glad to hear there is another Southeast build going on!
post #10 of 28
Thread Starter 
Anyone know the curve radius of theater seat? Is it pretty much the same for all brands? I did get around to cleaning up the room so i can rebuild one wall.
post #11 of 28
Thread Starter 
Anyone know how to add pictures from an IPAD? I can't figure it out.
post #12 of 28
Thread Starter 
Not the room but my other ongoing project....finishing the pool stone work

I have to build when I can, with 4 boys all under 8 it's an hour here hour there. I promised her I would finish the pool stone work If she let me start this project again.
I can hop on the room for an hour at a time, but the pool is 4 hour blocks to make it worth the effort.

Back of room

Left wall that I had to rebuild again now that I'm going with the original layout, door enters into storage over garage

Right wall and screen wall. I'm going to finish casing the window, hang the blinds then put a piece of wood or sheetrock over it then acoustic treatment.
The door on right wall had to be moved again. The closest to the wall is going to be closed back up to allow room for stage and bass traps.

Edited by allybuck64 - 11/28/12 at 9:40pm
post #13 of 28
Thread Starter 
Put the kids to bed and got all the drywall hung. Now the fun of taping, mudding and sanding.
post #14 of 28
Thread Starter 
Finished up with the drywall. Celebrated Alabama's victory by buying the lumber for the stage. Spent sat night and sunday night building it. Tonight I should have the decking cut out.

Question: the room is on the second floor, any concerns with loading the stage with sand due to the weight. The wall below it is an exterior is 2x6. I have one load bearing wall below the room about 1/3 of the way in on the right. If I only filled the 2 end cavities each side would that be ok? Then stuff the rest with insulation.

Edited by allybuck64 - 12/3/12 at 9:18am
post #15 of 28
Thread Starter 
Should i put the 30# on the stage then the decking then felt then decking. How are people attaching the decking screws or nails?
post #16 of 28
I don't think I would fill every cavity with sand being that you are on the second floor. I put about 3500 lbs of sand in mine, filling every cavity, but I am working on top of concrete. I would probably only put sand in those that will have subs sitting on or near them.

I tossed around several options when putting the decking on my stage (GG between layers, roofing felt, or construction adhesive). In the end I went with the construction adhesive. The goal is to stop any squeaks you may get between the boards. If they are thoroughly glued together they should never squeak. I put the construction adhesive on the 2x10's (or whatever you used to frame your stage) and then screwed down my first layer using decking screws. You can use just about any screw but I would not use nails. Then apply a heavy layer of construction adhesive all over the top of the first layer. I would stagger the joints too. Probably not necessary but couldn't hurt. I then used longer screws to screw down through the two layers of decking and into the lumber. This should give you a very solid deck surface.

If you want to stick with the felt I would install it: lumber, felt, deck, felt, deck
post #17 of 28
Similar to vanice's answer, I have seen 2nd floor builds on here where they just put the sand in the cavities that will be supporting the sub(s), and fill the rest with regular insulation. Downside to that is you are kind of limited to where you place the sub, so it is a good idea to make sure that is the correct placement location first. I will be using construction adhesive and decking screws for the first layer of the lid. I have enough GG left over, so will be using that between sheets.
post #18 of 28
Thread Starter 
Ok thanks. Sand on end cavaties, adhesive on 2x10
post #19 of 28
Thread Starter 
If I ever loan out another tool it will include a hand receipt....off to buy a jig saw. The individual claims he never used it but my wife even remebers him borrowing it.
post #20 of 28
Thread Starter 
Stage taking shape

post #21 of 28
Thread Starter 
Over the next 3 weeks my plans are to build the Riser, paint the room and treat the front wall. Hopefully get the False Wall Built

I can get rolls of Linacoustic locally instock for front wall between Bass Traps.

For the Bass traps I have yet to find someone that stocks Insulshield. The HVAC company has JM 1'' or 2'' Duct board in 4x10 sheets. Will that work? Cut it into the triangles

I can get OC703 from HD but its a 5 pack min with 6 2x4 sheets per pack. Special order.
post #22 of 28
Thread Starter 
Opinions about my proposed riser.

Looking at 12" tall, having 4 small kids I'm not sure where they will want to sit, so if I'm up front they will need to see over me. The green tape is what I'm thinking. Total stage depth is 8'6" with 6' 6" from door open to front of riser. Rear seats are 17' to screen and fronts are 10' 6". My wife likes how Cinemar wrapped his front seats with the stairs. The front left and right are the front steps with lights in each. The door will swing into the landing and I am going to continue the hard wood floors into that little area for a better flow of the floor. Carpet the room with stained oak trim on stairs and riser edge to match the stair way color. With how I layed it out I have 120 inches for the front row and 105 for rear to accommodate for the slopped wall/ceiling.

Edited by allybuck64 - 12/6/12 at 9:49pm
post #23 of 28
I would make the riser a little deeper, especially with the swing of the door coming so close to the back of the riser. I'm afraid if your back seats were reclined all the way, they might get smacked by the door. I've attached a pic of my seat layout on a 7'-6" deep riser. The seats are shown fully reclined, so this would be more for nap time than movie time, but it gives you an idea of the worst case scenario. Even with a 7'-6" deep riser, you can see how the head rest of the 2nd row is fairly close to the wall (or in your case, the door) and the feet of 2nd row users are pretty close to the front row heads. I think at 6'-6", you will either have a conflict with the door or between the two seats.

If you do decide to make the riser deeper, make sure you recheck your riser height numbers since the front row will be closer to the screen than before.

post #24 of 28
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the picture im going to look into making my riser deeper.

I have found Linacoustic locally. The have 1/2", 1" and 2", what size should I get? I will line the front wall and then use it on other walls behind frames.

The fiber glass board has a foil facing, for bass traps do i tear it off or leave it. I plan on stacking them up floor to ceiling in triangles. They have 1" and 2" other then having to cut more with 1" pros cons of thickness.
post #25 of 28
My panels were 1" thick, so I went with 1" Linacoustic. I doubled it up on my front wall to get a 2" depth there.

If you haven't ordered your boards for the bass traps, look for the unfaced ones. No need to pay for the faced and then peel it off if you're just stacking triangles. If you can source Knauf boards in your area, get a price quote to compare to the OC703. In my area, they were almost 50% less, and they are much darker than the bright yellow OC703. No formaldehyde either.

For stacking triangles, thickness doesn't matter. It's the same density in the end. I went with 2" since it was cheaper to complete all the traps with a thicker board.
post #26 of 28
Thread Starter 
No visual progress made on the room.

I have been sanding and smoothing the ceiling.
Re-wired the room since we changed the layout again. 2 rear wall sconces, rope light, can lights, stage stair lights, projector run pulled will add box when final position is determined, and removed 1 of the 3 runs to the equipment rack.
And lots of research on acoustics.....would like to pay someone to do it for me but I think I'll research it enough to get a 70-80% solution compared to what I could pay for.
Found a local source for linacoustic and oc703 equivalent.

Some inspiration and ideas we are going after( more my wife, so she can't fuss about all the money this will cost)

Leaning toward a blue primary color with other colors pulled in.


The lower 2 feet of Cinemars room on the walls

A trellis pattern painted in the trayed ceiling.

I have done a bunch of research on fabric and correct me if I'm wrong the main benefit of GOM is fire retardant and it's AT properties. I read that if you can breath through it with out much difficulty then it's ok to cover wall panels? We found some AT fabric that is "theater" fabric but at 325$ a yard and we quickly said no. There are a lot of fabrics she likes at the local fabric stores that meet the breath test that have some similar design to them. As far as fire issue I found a solution you can soak fabric in let it hang dry. In front of any speaker we will go with certified AT fabric.
post #27 of 28
Thread Starter 
Riser going in. The steps are going to have a curve to match the stage.

Question about subs...i think im going to do a Bill Fitzmaurice THTLP. 6' long folded horn. If i lay it down behind the screen and aim it into the side wall will it be ok if i leave off the bottom 2' of corner bass trap? It fires out the bottom not the side

post #28 of 28
Thread Starter 
Stairs going in

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home