Pioneer SC-1222-K Anyone?

I bought this on a black Friday special as well. As far as I can tell, it seems to be the same as the elite sc-61. But your right, not much on this receiver anywhere.

Make that 3 of us! I just got it as well, and all I've seen and the little I've read indicates that it's exactly the same as the Pio Elite SC-61, except the Elite gets a 2 year warranty (and maybe more power?).

I was deciding between the 1222-k and the sick price Amazon was offering on the Onkyo 818. Went with the Pio eventually, even though the Onkyo has more features, because of all the Onkyo reliability issues.

But would love to read some reviews of the 1222-k from others...

I bought one as well.

I decided based on reviews of the sc-55 and new sc-68 with the same class d amps. They reviewed extremely well. Clearly the 68 has a few more features, but except for a touch more power and some processing equipment, they are pretty similar

http://www.hometheater.com/content/pioneer-elite-sc-68-av-receiver

I also have used the pioneer app and it's awesome.

I'll do a writeup when I get mine in and installed.

I've been looking at this receiver as well, but the 1 year warranty is too short. www.newegg.com still has it on sale.

I got mine setup yesterday after my 12 year old Yamaha finally died. I'm still going over everything with a fine tooth comb. But so far I'm impressed.

Have you tried running the mcacc yet. Ive followed the directions in the mcacc thread and to me the sound is thinner and has less bass. It could be a perception thing since the mcacc is generally lowering the db on all my speakers, but so far my favorite mcacc setting is 5 where no EQ has been performed!

Glad Im not the only one that cant find any info on this! I've been drooling over this avr ever since I saw it!

Picked mine up about a month ago from newegg.com. It's one fantastic receiver with gobs of power and features. Sounds great and drives 7 commercial cinema speakers (QSC SC-2150) to insane levels without a hint of fatigue. Aside from the 12v triggers and I guess the warranty, there's no reason to spend the extra cash for the Elite equivalents. Using an android tablet to control it via IP control with iRule. Love IP control!!!

Picked mine up and received it a few days ago and have not even hooked it up yet. I'm upgrading from an older 1014-k which I have praised for the longest time. The 1014 wasn't very expensive, but sure has worked great for me! This 1222-k makes me a tad upset though. The face plate is all plastic (1014 was aluminum along with the fold down front door) the chassis seems to be of thinner metal than the 1014, and the 1014k has a nicer remote with a small led screen on it...though I guess that's a moot point since you can use your android or iphone. For an MSRP of 1100 compared to the 1014's MSRP of around 500 back in the day, I expected the receiver to feel and appear less cheap. I just hope the performance impresses me otherwise I may take it back.

Another big shocker was the lack of switched AC outputs (knew about before purchasing). Even the Onkyo 818 didn't have any, in fact, very few receivers have this feature. Is this an archaic feature that has since been done away with?

Three days in with the receiver and am now loving it. I was having a hard time at first understanding the MCACC calibration. To be honest, once you start diving into the advanced features and start copying files and running different EQs on different presets, it is confusing and not the most user friendly. However, after three days of reading through the MCACC thread and the advanced user manual, it is now set up perfect. Running a 7.2 set up and loving it :-)

I'm currently playing a couple flac albums off USB right now. Also, the variety of internet radio is much better than on the 1020-k. There is everything from holiday music to podcasts available.

Does the manual say anything about Power Output Per Channel(20Hz-20kHz,.08%THD@8ohm)? Pioneer's website doesn't have that info. Right now I have an Polk RTiA5 & CSiA6.

Does this avr allow setting different cross-over for center-channel vs fronts...what about subwoofer...can it be set independetly as well? Please let me know...newegg has a really nice offer on this receiver till tomorrow.

no

Pioneer's engineers & audio gurus believe in 1 global crossover. When you select the Xover for bass management to the sub, it applies to all channels. I have talked with the head of marketing at Pioneer US and he has asked Pioneer Japan about this - they are adamantly opposed saying it introduces phase errors that *can* reduce audio quality.

and the crossover filter for the speakers IS what is used for directing bass to the sub so there's no separate one for the sub. that's the way it works.

Got to playing with the 1222, and I was hoping it would have more XO settings for the sub than just 50 and 80hz. The other higher ones I don't care about because who is going to cross their subs over at 200hz!? The speaker distance in 0.5" increments is nice, and is better than the VSX-1014 I upgraded from that did it every 0.5ft. MCACC could be upgraded to include more EQ bands for each speaker and also a few EQ bands for the sub would be nice, but I have an outboard processor for the subs, so I don't much care.

Has anyone found a good replacement for the horrible icontrol app for android?

does this mean that you only have the following two choices....

1. send everything below, say, 100hz to the subwoofer over the LFE channel and nothing below 100hz goes to any of the other speakers, OR
2. all speakers run full range, and there is NO LFE ouput.

that sounds nuts. i understand the potential issues with introducing phase problems but i can think of myriad situations where you simply end up with grossly underutilized equipment.

i have a set of B&W CDM NT speakers which are basically flat to 40hz. i round the system out with a 15" Definitive Sub.

do i just turn off all the MCACC stuff to make it work how i want or does it completely shut you out from sending full range signals to all the speakers?

if my question is off base and requires too much remedial explanation to answer in a reasonable time, please ignore and just let me know!

Got this at Newegg when they had it on promotion for $550. Have had it running a couple of days. Sound is very good, drives our vintage 4 ohm ADS 710 speakers with no problems. Bass and midrange sound big, full, especially with high quality sources, SACDs etc. Low quality sources, eg. streaming radio at 128 kbs, exposed for their weaknesses. Everything running right except Pandora, cannot connect to their server. Internet radio, netwrok attached hard drive with music all playing fine. No HDMI issues, cable box and BD player connecting fine. Think audio-video sync is off when the receiver is on and processing the HDMI signals, not sure. May be off slightly in pass-through also, not sure, need wife to look at it with me.

Anyone else seeing sync issues?

iRule. It's a full-on customizable universal remote control solution for your home. The basic iRule creation software however is $50. To me, well worth it as I've replaced all of the remotes around the house with iRule, our phones and tablets, and a bunch of Global Cache iTach's to control the non IP controllable stuff. Really cool.

Initially I did, however with a stroke of bad luck my sub-woofer died. So I'm seriously lacking bass at the moment regardless of what mcacc would do. But, I'm a fiddler so I'm okay with manual adjustments. The changes I have made so far sound ions better than what I had before despite the lack of a functioning low end.

After a couple more days of viewing, I am comfortable that audio and video are pretty much in sync with HDMIpassthrough, both with the cable box and with the BD player/streamer. When the audio is output through the receiver, I'm not sure...sometimes the sync looks fine, sometimes is seems to be off a little. Will see how it goesbe
The audio sounds full and rich to me (playing music). Quite pleased so far. Pioneer says the Pandora access problem will eb fixed with a firmware release soon, they say the problem is on the Pandora end. NBD for me.

regardless of how low your speakers are spec'd, you should still be crossing them over at a minumum of 80hz... there are many good reasons for this...

if you really want, i'll post you a remedial explanation as to why... however, i'm going to suggest some reading material for you... go to amazon, and spend 25 bucks on "the master handbook of acoustics"... it is very well written and understandable, and once you understand room acoustics, you'll understand why you din't want to cross your speakers "as low as they will go"... imo, that 25 bucks will be the best money you ever spent on a/v...

that puts aside the fact that the sub will produce the low octaves far better and with far more authority than those speakers ever will...

i would suspect you are referring to having multiple drivers attempting to reproduce the same frequency ranges and the resulting issues with wave cancellation and imaging among others. i.e....each driver has its job and shouldn't attempt to perform the job of others. it's the reason building a crossover network is not a simple as 'this one plays above 5k, this one doesn't".

i may take a look at the book anyway.

I wouldn't say nuts, I would just say wrong. ;-)

(1) If any speakers are set to small, then everything that would normally be routed to them below the given crossover frequency if they were set to large, is not sent to them but instead sent to the subwoofer, if it exists.
(2) If any speakers are set to large, nothing from their channels are sent to the sub. If the sub exists it still gets the 0.1 LFE channel from the media being played back.

Allowing different crossover frequencies to be set for various speakers shouldn't matter that much because it is supposed to be set so low that it makes either no or at worst a minimal audible difference. Sending bass below some arbitrary frequency to some other speaker halfway across the room creates about much phase error as one can imagine, unless you use delay to compensate for it, in which case it shouldn't be a problem.

Of course if the speakers are all voice matched, there would be no need for different crossover frequencies.