Pioneer SC-1222-K Anyone? - Page 12

I have that problem sometimes, but all I do is hit the 'NET' button ( near top of remote) and they work!

So far, I've had this receiver for 2 days. I haven't been able to fully test it. I tested my Dune D1 media player, and it worked without any issues. Thereafter, I upgraded to the latest firmware. I re-formatted my corsair 32 gb flash drive to Fat32 even though it was already Fat32 (recommended). Downloaded and unzipped the files. Hooked it up to the AVR, and approxiately less than 10 min. it updated.

I was surprised that it turned off and did not turn back on after the update. Yesterday, I download the iControlAV2012 app to my wife's and my iPhone 4s phones. At first I kept getting an error message "error code b47110." After some research, I found out that the iControlAV2012 app will not turn on your receiver unless you have NETWORK STANDBY ENABLED. After I enabled network standby, I was able to fully controlled the AVR. I also signed to my Pandora account via the AVR's OSD. Pandora is fully functional, and it sound awesome

I will be off work this weekend, and I will try to run MCACC. I would like to also say that my new Polk Audio 25C sound AWESOME!!! I just need to raise my TV several inches since this speaker is pretty tall. I will be installing the iControl app on my wife's iPad. I also like the option that you can re-name the HDMI inputs! So far, I am very happy with this receiver. At first, I thought I was going to regret buying it.

However, it does sucks for those of you who have had issues with this AVR.

Hi all,

I am considering the SC-1222 since it is priced at $529 on Newegg right now with free shipping. Seems like a pretty good deal to me for that price. One of my biggest questions is this -

With a budget around $500 dollars do you think there is anything else out there I should be considering (even a potentially higher-end used model)?

Audio quality is most important to me, along with Internet streaming (e.g. Spotify), and playing music in multiple areas (separate from TV area). I don't have anything 3D right now (and am unlikely to any time soon) although video/home theater is still important to me for the family. Either way, I hope to end up with the following at a minimum

I used to be up on all this stuff years ago, but I am now a relative noob. I've learned a lot just reading the posts in this thread, and would greatly appreciate advice from all of you here with more knowledge. Thanks in advance for your help!

Sincerely,
Dave H.

You can go refurbished from A4L.

No.

Of the matters you mention, the only one I'm hesitant about is compatibility with 3d. It should work okay, since the AVR advertises compatibility with HDMI version 1.4a, but my SC-1522-K seems reluctant to put my TV into 3d mode. Probably there is some setting I don't have right.

Thanks GusGus748s. I will check that site out to see what they have. Haven't dealt with them before.

Thanks Greg. Since you mentioned compatibility with HDMI 1.4a, I have been wondering how important that will be to me since I don't have any 3D devices. I have noticed quite a few higher end AVRs from a few years ago that were only 1.3a going pretty inexpensively, and I am guessing this is one of the reasons why. Wasn't sure if any of these were worth looking into, or if there are other features available now on the newer models that make these older units not worth looking at.

Don't get me wrong, I really like what I see with the 1222, but just wondering if I might gain some robust capabilities by foregoing HDMI 1.4.

I don't know of other new features comparable to 3D compatibility that have come into wide use lately that concern HDMI or video functions. Newer mid-level receivers with more than 5.1 channels may provide Dolby IIz for height speakers, front wide speakers, or Neo:X output mode.

OK, that is good to know. I am still leaning toward the 1222 because it seems like such a good deal (a lot of receiver for the money) but I wanted to make sure i am being thorough and considering all of my options. The last receiver I bought was 24 years ago when I was single and it has managed to keep me going all these years (Yamaha RX-830 - considered pretty good at the time). I have been on a sort of a self-imposed audiophile exile since then - busy adding a wife and 5 kids to the mix - and have tried not to look to avoid torturing myself.

Finally getting a chance to wade back into the waters and I really want to make the most of it. I saw an Integra 70.3 selling on eBay recently that I thought I had a shot at, but a flurry of last minute bids pushed it too high (isn't that always the case anymore?). If I find a really good deal on a receiver I am hoping to have some dollars to put into some new speakers (also due for an upgrade). That will be the next area I need to get "re-educated" in.

Thanks again for your advice. In the words of LZ "been a long time since I rock-n-rolled"

dhman,

Check the deals found section or the "Official" Sc-1222-K thread for my last post in either.

I got an SC-1222-K last night on Newegg for $529.99 (no promo price) + used a promo code for another $50 off by setting up a free V.me account for a total of $479.99 shipped! I checked this morning and the price is still the same and the promo code still works.

habe

Thanks Habe. I saw that on slickdeals and planned on using it for sure. I think that v.me code is good until 3/21. Hoping to make up my mind well ahead of that, so fingers crossed. Every $ saved is a dollar I can put toward speakers.

Quick question newegg says it has dts neo x , but the pioneer site says it only has dts neo 6 so which is correct? And am I correct in looking at the back it has full pre outs for everything?

 

The SC-1222k does have pre-outs for all, Front, Center, Surround, Surround back and front H/W.  (also 2 for the sub)

What about the dts, is it neo x or neo 6?

It has Neo 6

Hello,

Does anyone know if the two subwoofer outputs are parallel (the same same using a y-splitter?)


Thanks!!

And thats one of the reasons I went with the SC-1222-K and saved some good money for now. The only new thing I see really new on the new Pio receivers is 4K capability. I really wanted a 4K capable receiver for future use but after doing some research, it seems that ALL current 4K AVR's MAY need to be replaced at some point anyway as they they only have HDMI 1.4(a) which only supports up to 4K 24hz & 30hz. 4K 60hz and higher will be one of the standards and for that, you will need the next version of HDMI (I've read it might be called 1.5 or 2.0, not sure anyone knows....)

That's good to know. I really don't want to spend more than I need to, esp. if things may change or evolve long before I am able to purchase some of the new video components. For now we only have one HD tv and a DLP projector in the area where the AV receiver will be. My audio setup has remained the same for so long, I am looking forward to a long overdue upgrade and want to get the most I can out of it.

Hello, I purchased and received the Pioneer 1222k from Newegg last week. I have been struggling with the setup but think I have it at an ok level. I have run the MCACC and found it pretty cool and think for the most part it did a great job. Like almost every other post I found the bass very thin. I am not very knowledgeable about A/V things and found a lot of the instructions very confusing. They pretty much assume I know what the are talking about but I don't. One problem I have that I can't seem to remedy is that a few channels from the Direct Tv box have an issue with audio sync . Lips and sound don't match. I discussed this with the Direct TV guy and he suggested running an optical cable from the tv to the AV receiver, in addition to the hdmi hookup. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Most of the channels effected are the local ones on the system. This is the third A/V amp I have tried in as many months with my current system. The only one that has had a problem with the sync is the Pioneer. Thank you. This is my first post. I just hope I stated the problem and didn't sound too ignorant..which I truly am when it comes to getting these things set up properly.

It's just a y splitter

I don't know why I did this, but I decided to take the plunge and check out the SC-1222. Ran the calibration software under appropriate speaker and crossover settings. While I'm sure the amps are great, this doesn't compare so far to the Denon 1712 I have, and I think it has to do with the calibration capabilities.

Try running them both uncalibrated.

Whale we are on the subject I just wanted to say I DUI an unscientific test reading the power usage of my ups running my 5 speakers at the-20 mark. Highest peak pulled was 91 watts. Running the same music with same crossover settings on the vs 1122 I was getting peaks of 135 watts. I did not measure the SPL out anything else though.

Find the MCACC calibration thread somewhere on AVS(I have it favorite on my home pc) and read through it, there are some nuances to it that are different from using Audyssey.

In my opinion, the Advanced MCACC of the 1222 is far superior to Audyssey MultEQ. Obviously, calibration on any software isn't always perfect and you may just be more used to the results of Audyssey than MCACC. That said, as mentioned, check out the MCACC thread. There's so much tweaking and adjusting that can be done. The 1222 is leagues ahead of the 1712 as a receiver. In my opinion.

Well, I love Pioneer as a brand. I have a Kuro, and have always thought the receivers just "looked better" than other major market receivers, and this one clearly looks better than my Denon (imho). I own some budget Pioneer floorstanding speakers (FS51's) along with B41s for surrounds (and the C21 center), so if I tended towards any bias, it would be for the Pioneer. I thought the more powerful amps might bring them "more alive" or something, but I'm not getting that at all. I know the amp section on this buries that in the 1712, but not the calibration software, and so far, it's pretty obvious when it comes to the sound--especially at the lower bass levels. I recently bought an SVS sub (as in last week), and have corresponded with them via email over the last day or so on this.

Here's a quotation from what one of the guys says, "Yes, MultEQ XT is all it's cracked up to be. I won't buy an AVR without it. The MCACC in the Pioneer will calibrate the sub (meaning balance its level and set the distance) but it won’t EQ the sub (nor will Yamaha's YPAO for that matter). The big advantage of MultEQ XT is the room-correction EQ it applies to the sub channel which is really more sophisticated than one can do manually with an outboard device." I've heard similar things being said from folks at Emotiva (when it comes to MultiEQ XT32, at least). Notice, though--I have MultiEQ XT--not plain ole' MultiEQ.

But don't get me wrong--I'm still playing and perhaps I'll dial it in to my liking--I don't know for sure (I should have some banana plugs coming in tomorrow so that I can switch back and forth between receivers). One of the worries for me is that I'd prefer it being "accurate" over "to my liking," because "my liking" will probably correspond to what is accurate after a relatively short amount of time (I don't know if that makes sense or not).

What exactly is missing? Have you gone through the mcacc thread? Have tried messing with the eq on the app or the subwoofer gain control in the app? Also have you tried the sun crawl?

From what I can tell, it has more to do with the blending of the sub and the speaker system. I have messed with the gain control, and that's about it (so far), besides doing advanced MCACC (and setting speakers to small at an 80 crossover). I'm in the process of reading through the MCACC thread. I'm not for sure what you mean by sun crawl--are you referring to finding a location for the sub in my room?

Lol I meant sub crawl. But try messing with the other 2 things i mentioned as they are easy to reset and can be adjusted on the fly.

Strange design decision.

 

Seems like each speakers pair would each have it's own ability to re-produce bass. So, you should be able to set cross-over per pair. I thought if a speaker set (or single in the case of Center or Rear) had the ability to re-produce bass down to a certain frequency, you should go ahead and let it.

 

So, with only one setting, you set it to the ability of your smallest/weakest pair (likely the side surrounds)?