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How to determine what wattage tweeter to get?

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 
Replacing the tweeters in a set of 2-way speakers that are rated 120 watts RMS. The crossover is about 5Khz. Do I need a tweeter rated for 120 watts rms, or will lower wattage tweeters work? I am under the impression that a majority of the wattage is used by the woofer, and only a smaller amount used by the tweeters. Is that true? Unfortunately, the OE tweeters are not labeled with wattage or Ohms.

Thanks!

Mark
post #2 of 8
It depends on how the tweeter was rated. Some are rated according to system power, some by actual power with a specified minimum high pass frequency and slope. The problem is most don't tell you how they were rated. With a 5kHz high-pass you can figure a tweeter in a 120w speaker may see 10 watts.
post #3 of 8
I think, from what I've been reading, it's more important to match the senstivity.
post #4 of 8
Thread Starter 
Thank you for your responses. Will be looking for a tweeter with a SPL of 90 or better. I see many tweeters that are rated about 30 watts that should be more than sufficient for this system.

Thanks again!

Mark
post #5 of 8
What kind of tweeter do you currently have? It is not considered good to just buy a random tweeter with the appropriate sensitivity and wattage ratting because you will have to rework the crossover. Right?
post #6 of 8
Thread Starter 
Have new two way crossovers that cross at about 3500hz. Its too low for the existing tweeter, and I was looking for better sound than the OEM tweeter. Ended up replacing a small mylar dome with the Tang Band 25-302SH tweeter. Specs are:

DIAPHRAGM MTL Fabric (silk dome)
SURROUND MTL N/A
NOMINAL IMPEDANCE 8 W
DCR IMPEDANCE 6 W
SENSITIVITY 1W/1m 91 dB
FREQUENCY RESPONSE 1400-20K Hz
FREE AIR RESONANCE 1400 Hz
VOICE COIL DIAMETER 25.4 mm
AIR GAP HEIGHT 2 mm
RATED POWER INPUT 8 W
MAXIMUM POWER INPUT 80 W
FORCE FACTOR, BL N/A
MAGNET WEIGHT ( oz) Neodymium

The wattage is way more than I will ever use, but the frequency response curve is amazingly flat throughout the range. I am very pleased with the performance. The presence and realism is amazing.
post #7 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark4242 View Post

Ended up replacing a small mylar dome with the Tang Band 25-302SH tweeter. , but the frequency response curve is amazingly flat throughout the range. I am very pleased with the performance. The presence and realism is amazing.
It's a good tweeter, but it's far from the best available. What your experience mainly points out is how cheap most OEM drivers are.
post #8 of 8
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

It's a good tweeter, but it's far from the best available. What your experience mainly points out is how cheap most OEM drivers are.

Yes, I agree with that assessment! It is so true that the quality of the components are often not reflected by the price of the speaker.

I have been building speakers since the 70's and most was trial and error, or copying speakers that were in the stores like Crazy Eddie, etc (remember how it was pre-internet? LOL!). Anyway, I am far from an audiophile, but I do know what I like, what I want, and what I can afford. For the price (a pair of tweeters for $25, and they normally sell for about $23 a piece) it was a major upgrade over a $5 Mylar dome with a capacitor on it as the sole crossover system in those speakers!

At any rate, I found this tweeter was very popular and used in a number of speaker projects I found on the net. Upgrading these speakers has been fun, easy, rather inexpensive and very rewarding. My kids (ages 9 , 13, and 23) all learned a good lesson in speaker basics. Plus how to solder connections, connect and mount a crossover circuit board, experiment with different amounts of acoustic dampener, build custom speaker mounts that angle the highest speakers into the target listening area, etc. My daughter (13) helped rout speaker wire around the room on the outside of the house, drilled the holes through the siding to the inside, sealed the holes, added plastic tubing to protect the outside run of wire, and on and on. This has been a fun, if not modest, 5.1 home theater project. Pretty nice upgrade from a pair of Klipsch bookshelf speakers and an old Warfdale sub!
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