AVS › AVS Forum › Home Entertainment & Theater Builder › Dedicated Theater Design & Construction › Mijotter's Subarmine HT thread.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Mijotter's Subarmine HT thread. - Page 2

post #31 of 57
12/2/12 at 4:35pm
Thread Starter 
Here you go guys. It's not perfectly to scale but i thought i did a pretty good job for my first time ever.

Edited by mijotter - 12/2/12 at 8:07pm
Reply
Reply

AVS Top Picks

post #32 of 57
12/5/12 at 5:55pm
Thread Starter 
So I post a noobie Floor Plan and no responses;-P

Update: I glued my 2" xps board to my concrete wall using Pl-300 and it's been braced for almost 24 hours now. I have tyvek tape for the board joints but i don't 100% trust it to last so would that Pl-300 work where the boards meet one another and at the corners and concrete floor?

But it's exciting to finally be getting stuff up in the room, up until this point it's been purely knowledge and prep work.
Reply
Reply
post #33 of 57
12/5/12 at 7:47pm
In regard to those plenums, I'm not sure there's much to be done. As Tom said, you're going to be relying heavily on your DD+GG to attenuate the sound leaving your theater (and the ducts) since there isn't much space for absorption. How much space to you think there will be between your DW and the sheet metal for the plenums? You could possibly take out the sheet metal and replace it with a duct board of some kind. I think some of those may have some absorptive characteristics.

Aside form that, the only other option I can see would be to have an HVAC contractor come out and see if those ducts could be resized or replaced with flex. That's not something I would recommend without a professional evaluation of the overall system.
Reply
Reply
post #34 of 57
12/6/12 at 1:04am
Thread Starter 
The space between the plenum and the first layer of drywall would be about 1 1/2". Your idea got me looking for duct board, never thought of that. I found Thermopan thanks to another's reference. http://www.thermopan.com/thermopan.htm
Is this what you were referring to? The only issue i see would be attaching sound clips to the bottoms of the joists that the duct board is already attached to. I guess I could put in a "bridge" piece of wood between that joist and the next one(open), level it to the joist bottom and attach a sound clip there...that should be an issue right?
Reply
Reply
post #35 of 57
12/6/12 at 5:25am
The stairs in the pictures is where on your layout? How come it's only shown partial? Could you draw where the 4 walls of your theater room are going maybe in a different color? Did you talk to Ted or John yet and order your IB-3 clips for the walls? The plenums are returns for the upstairs? And yes, thermopan and duct board are the same thing. The 17'9" dim goes to where? To the front of the stairs, beyond the stairs to the actual wall that's not shown in your diagram?
Reply
Reply
post #36 of 57
12/6/12 at 3:45pm
Thread Starter 
The stairs are open, meaning when you walk down, about the 5th step down you can look in to the room. Obviously I'm going to wall that off and put a door there. The 17'9" goes to the steps. And yes those plenums are returns for the living room upstairs. I'm probably going to replace them with that thermopan duct board as it's much more cost effective than putting duct liner in and MLV on the bottom side of old metal ducts. Would GG and DW work inside the plenums up against the ceiling as proposed in http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing-solutions/soundproof-a-ceiling/ Ceiling Solution #4.
Reply
Reply
post #37 of 57
12/6/12 at 4:56pm
So, good there will be a wall there. Make absolutely sure you don't put that wall against the staircase anywhere. So, I think I see the basic shape of the ht room but, where is the equipment, screen wall going and seating arrangement?

Actually #4 is a real good idea with the thermopan replacement. I say go for it.
Reply
Reply
post #38 of 57
12/6/12 at 7:08pm
Thread Starter 
Oh Tom I'm not THAT far yet. I mean I have a rough idea of everything but if I cram too much more in my tiny little brain it might pop lol. That's why i' trying to get this ball rolling so I can get some things out of my head to make room. This floor plan is pretty much for the soundproofing, i'll draw one up of seats, speaker, screen, fish tanks, etc. And yeah It won't touch the stair case. I'll have more questions and pictures on that wall when I get to it. I'm either double walling it or stagger studding it though.

And excellent to hear, was hoping drywall would be ok in the return plenums. Should a specific drywall be used ie. fire rated, paper face, etc.
Reply
Reply
post #39 of 57
12/7/12 at 2:08pm
Thread Starter 
Anyone? Should a specific drywall be used ie. fire rated, paper face, etc.
Reply
Reply
post #40 of 57
12/7/12 at 2:42pm
If sound isolation is your goal, 5/8" drywall is the way to go. The heavier the better. I'm not sure if there are other types, but all of the 5/8" I've found around here is Type X (fire resistant). You should give Ted and/or John a call at the soundproofing company about this. I like the idea of using the DD+GG on the back of the subfloor, but my concern would be a triple leaf scenario since you will not have any appreciable absorption anywhere in that cavity. They might suggest a duct liner instead to help tame any potential resonances. I'm just guessing here, though.
Reply
Reply
post #41 of 57
12/7/12 at 4:12pm
Thread Starter 
Well i'm replacing the sheet metal with Thermopan, that should help right?
Reply
Reply
post #42 of 57
12/10/12 at 7:47pm
Thread Starter 
So i ordered my Greenglue(Thanks Ted and John) and getting ready to put the drywall on the ceiling between the ceiling joists. However I have cross beams on almost every joist space. Can these be removed completely? Should they be taken out then put back up? Thanks.

Reply
Reply
post #43 of 57
12/12/12 at 8:41pm
Thread Starter 
Got my Greenglue today! Psyched to start working with it. Going in between the ceiling joists first with 5/8" drywall:) I put my Dogs ball in it because it matched the green so well.

Reply
Reply
post #44 of 57
12/12/12 at 8:54pm
I would not remove the cross bracing. I "think" it is supposed to help with floor bounce, and it is also supposed to prevent the joists from twisting, again I "think". The joist is much weaker and subject to more bounce if it is allowed to warp and twist onto its side. Think about standing on a 2x4 on edge or flat.
Reply
Reply
post #45 of 57
12/12/12 at 10:23pm
Thread Starter 
Gotcha, I think i'll take them down so that I can put the GG and DW up on the subfloor then put them back up and lower them accordingly. Should do the trick I would expect. Thanks for the info btw.
Reply
Reply
post #46 of 57
12/15/12 at 1:43am
Thread Starter 
Can i get away with not removing the cross bridging between the ceiling joists and just drywalling up to them on either side? Or will i lose quite a bit of soundproofing in those spots. If i take them down, can I put them back up just a little lower to compensate for the 5/8" drywall going on the subfloor bottom? Thanks!
Reply
Reply
post #47 of 57
12/15/12 at 11:31am
Thread Starter 
Anyone? Want to start this today. Thanks.
Reply
Reply
post #48 of 57
12/15/12 at 4:23pm
Advice I got on the forum for a question as to whether to caulk around the bracing or not was "not to bother". Now I could not easily remove the bracing as it was screwed in from the top prior to the flooring going in. I had to fit the drywall up to the bracing, then added a small "S" shaped peice around the bracing.

For your situation you need to balance which is easier.
1. Fiddle with the drywall around the bracing? or leave a gap?
OR
2. Remove bracing, install draywall quicker and easier, then re-install bracing.

I would think the end result would be better with plan #2.
Reply
Reply
post #49 of 57
12/15/12 at 4:29pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks a lot. Yeah i'm definately going to take them down. Just not sure how to put them back up and it they're ok to be that 5/8" lower from the top of the joist or not. Was reading about maybe putting a horizontal piece at the bottom but not sure on that.
Reply
Reply
post #50 of 57
12/15/12 at 10:31pm
Thread Starter 
Ok tomorrow I'm replacing the return sheet metal panning with Thermopan and putting 5/8" drywall and GG on the subfloor in between the ceiling joists(pretty excited). I have a couple questions, does it matter where the insulation goes in Ceiling Option #4 http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing-solutions/soundproof-a-ceiling/
Can it be up against the drywall on the subfloor or does it really matter?

Also, in regards to the bracing, I'm a bit of a perfectionist and don't like small gaps or breaks in anything. With those cross bracings between the joists I'll have to "break" the insulation. Will this affect sound performance, should I Iook at a different type of bracing like 1 horizontal piece nailed to each ceiling joist |_| (that's my attempt at a drawing of it.) that way the insulation can just rest on top of the brace or am i being too anal and just stuff the insulation in and around the cross braces. Thanks again.
Reply
Reply
post #51 of 57
12/16/12 at 3:33pm
I think the role of the insulation in joist cavity is to stop the drum like effect of an empty space. Joints between batts should cause no issues.

As long as you are not installing the new fangled transparent drywall I wouldn't worry about it... wink.gif
Edited by Damage Inc - 12/16/12 at 3:42pm
Reply
Reply
post #52 of 57
12/17/12 at 12:56am
Thread Starter 
Alrighty sounds good. So I took down the sheet metal panning , cleaned the wood, and put up 1 layer of 5/8" drywall and Greenglue on the subfloor. That Greenglue is so easy to work with wow.



Next, I'll caulk the drywall with Titebond Acoustical Caulk and put up the new Thermopan Ductboard. Yay starting to take the first big steps:)
Reply
Reply
post #53 of 57
12/19/12 at 5:33pm
Thread Starter 
Does anyone know anything about this stuff?

http://www.gyprock.com.au/resources/filemanager/datasheets.aspx?fileIteration=154

Was just browsing around tonight and saw an ad for it.
Reply
Reply
post #54 of 57
12/22/12 at 12:44pm
Thread Starter 
Ok I have a question about installing furring channels on my ceiling. I've looked at diagrams over at Soundproofingcompany.com but they're mostly for walls. Does anyone have a picture or diagram showing a furring ceiling. I only ask because a couple of my ceiling joists are a little more narrow than normal and I wanted to place the Thermopan duct board IN the joist and staple them INside the joists. However they simply won't fit so i'm left with either stapling them on the underside of the joists both sides, or just one side of the duct board and the other side up in the joist.

I don't think I can install a Whisper clip on ductboard...
Reply
Reply
post #55 of 57
12/22/12 at 11:00pm
Thread Starter 
Is anyone still out there willing to lend a hand(literally to type haha...ok bad joke sorry)
Reply
Reply
post #56 of 57
1/6/13 at 10:59pm
Thread Starter 
Ok I've been on vacation and then to Jamaica for my brother's wedding but I was able to finish the DD and GG up in the ceiling joists that are inside the return plenums. I'm replacing the old sheet metal with Thermopan duct board. However, 1 thing is bothering me. Resonance in the return plenum duct. Even though the sheet metal is gone I cannot put batt insulation in a return, thus not having a resonance damping material. Will I need a duct liner of some sort in there with the duct board or am I worrying too much and the duct board will "fix" this. Thanks.
Reply
Reply
post #57 of 57
2/26/13 at 1:25am
Thread Starter 
Does anyone know or have done before; framing a single door in a double wall assembly? I do not have the room for double doors. I was thinking just framing it like normal on the interior wall, but Do not want to recouple the double walls. Thank you.
Reply
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home

AVS Top Picks

AVS › AVS Forum › Home Entertainment & Theater Builder › Dedicated Theater Design & Construction › Mijotter's Subarmine HT thread.