Just a little background on my DIY skills...almost non-existent...regardless of my diy skills...
I would like to build a sonotube subwoofer enclosure for a 12" sub to replace my current sub (was sunfire true sub mkii...now it is temporarily the bic f12)...my budget is probably around $350 (i know it is not too much...but I am hoping I can do something decent with it)....i would like to move up to a 15" sub but space is an issue as shown below...i want to place the sub in the same location as the bic f12 pictured below...there is nothing really stopping me from placing the sonotube sub in the corner...but even the slightest localization of the sub will bother me...

Question 1...is the list below a fairly complete list of materials needed to complete the project...
- 12" subwoofer (most likely the Dayton Audio DVC310-88...but more on this later)
- 12" diameter sonotube (question on this topic below)
- Amplifier (most likely the Bash 300W Digital Plate Amp as the sub is rated at 350 - close enough)
- PVC for port
- 3/4" MDF
- Terminal Plate or Binding Posts
- Spekaer Mounting Kit
- Damping Material
- Finishing Materials (will figure this out later)
- Wood Glue
- Clamps
- Table Saw
- Dremel (my router alternative)
Question 2....Will 14" sonotube diameter be a better option with a 12" sub due to the necessity of the enclosure's base legs and the enclosure will not have to be as tall?
Question 3...I chose the Dayton Audio DVC310-88 due to the decent excursion and frequency response plot in WINISD (can be seen below)...will this sub be a good choice for a sonotube design...
--- DVC310-88 ---
Power Handling (RMS) 350 Watts
Power Handling (max) 700 Watts
Impedance 8 ohms
Frequency Response 20 to 450 Hz
Sensitivity 87.4 dB 1W/1m
Voice Coil Diameter 2"
Magnet Weight 112 oz.
Resonant Frequency (Fs) 22.2 Hz
DC Resistance (Re) 2.8 ohms
Voice Coil Inductance (Le) 1.76 mH
Mechanical Q (Qms) 8.69
Electromagnetic Q (Qes) 0.40
Total Q (Qts) 0.38
Compliance Equivalent Volume (Vas) 4.25 ft.³
Mechanical Compliance of Suspension (Cms) 0.20 mm/N
BL Product (BL) 15.85 Tm
Diaphragm Mass Inc. Airload (Mms) 259.3g
Maximum Linear Excursion (Xmax) 15.1 mm
Surface Area of Cone (Sd) 502.7 cm²

Question 4...I am fairly certain the answer to this question is "NO" but i will ask nonetheless...should the port volume be subtracted the from the total internal volume of the enclosure...by that i mean if the design requires a 3.2 ft^3 enclosure with a 4" port of length 10.5"...should i add the volume of the port to the total internal volume of the enclosure > 3.2 ft^3 + (3.14 * .33^2 * .875 = .299 ft^3) = 3.499 ft^3
Question 5...What is the general protocol of attaching an end cap to the sonotube?...i believe it is just wood glue between the inner end cap (the smaller end cap) and the inside of the enclosure?...
Question 6...Are screws necessary at all when building a sonotube sub enclosure (aside from mounting the sub to the end cap)?...or is it all just wood glue...
I would like to build a sonotube subwoofer enclosure for a 12" sub to replace my current sub (was sunfire true sub mkii...now it is temporarily the bic f12)...my budget is probably around $350 (i know it is not too much...but I am hoping I can do something decent with it)....i would like to move up to a 15" sub but space is an issue as shown below...i want to place the sub in the same location as the bic f12 pictured below...there is nothing really stopping me from placing the sonotube sub in the corner...but even the slightest localization of the sub will bother me...
Question 1...is the list below a fairly complete list of materials needed to complete the project...
- 12" subwoofer (most likely the Dayton Audio DVC310-88...but more on this later)
- 12" diameter sonotube (question on this topic below)
- Amplifier (most likely the Bash 300W Digital Plate Amp as the sub is rated at 350 - close enough)
- PVC for port
- 3/4" MDF
- Terminal Plate or Binding Posts
- Spekaer Mounting Kit
- Damping Material
- Finishing Materials (will figure this out later)
- Wood Glue
- Clamps
- Table Saw
- Dremel (my router alternative)
Question 2....Will 14" sonotube diameter be a better option with a 12" sub due to the necessity of the enclosure's base legs and the enclosure will not have to be as tall?
Question 3...I chose the Dayton Audio DVC310-88 due to the decent excursion and frequency response plot in WINISD (can be seen below)...will this sub be a good choice for a sonotube design...
--- DVC310-88 ---
Power Handling (RMS) 350 Watts
Power Handling (max) 700 Watts
Impedance 8 ohms
Frequency Response 20 to 450 Hz
Sensitivity 87.4 dB 1W/1m
Voice Coil Diameter 2"
Magnet Weight 112 oz.
Resonant Frequency (Fs) 22.2 Hz
DC Resistance (Re) 2.8 ohms
Voice Coil Inductance (Le) 1.76 mH
Mechanical Q (Qms) 8.69
Electromagnetic Q (Qes) 0.40
Total Q (Qts) 0.38
Compliance Equivalent Volume (Vas) 4.25 ft.³
Mechanical Compliance of Suspension (Cms) 0.20 mm/N
BL Product (BL) 15.85 Tm
Diaphragm Mass Inc. Airload (Mms) 259.3g
Maximum Linear Excursion (Xmax) 15.1 mm
Surface Area of Cone (Sd) 502.7 cm²
Question 4...I am fairly certain the answer to this question is "NO" but i will ask nonetheless...should the port volume be subtracted the from the total internal volume of the enclosure...by that i mean if the design requires a 3.2 ft^3 enclosure with a 4" port of length 10.5"...should i add the volume of the port to the total internal volume of the enclosure > 3.2 ft^3 + (3.14 * .33^2 * .875 = .299 ft^3) = 3.499 ft^3
Question 5...What is the general protocol of attaching an end cap to the sonotube?...i believe it is just wood glue between the inner end cap (the smaller end cap) and the inside of the enclosure?...
Question 6...Are screws necessary at all when building a sonotube sub enclosure (aside from mounting the sub to the end cap)?...or is it all just wood glue...


















